IRLF 


'- 


THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 


PRESENTED  BY 

PROF.  CHARLES  A.  KOFOID  AND 
MRS.  PRUDENCE  W.  KOFOID 


by  Hmd&ton- 


A  GUIDE 


ro 


SLOBICULTURE; 


CONTAINING 


INSTRUCTIONS  TO  THE  YOUNG  FLORIST, 

FOR    THE   MANAGEMENT   OF   THE   MOST   POPULAR 
FLOWERS    OF    TllE    DAY. 

IHiusfratefc  fottj)  (Ztoloretr  plates. 

"O  who  that  has  an  eye  to  see, 
An  ear  t«  hear,  a  tongue  to  bless, 
Can  ever  un delighted  he 
With  Nature's  magic  loveliness." 


BY  T.  WINTER. 


CINCINNATI. 
DERBY,  BRADLEY  &  CO. 

1847. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1846,  by. 

T.    WINTER, 
In  the  Clerk's  Office  for  the  District  of  Ohio. 


E.  SHEPARD, 

8TERBOTYPER  AND  PRINTER, 

No.  11  Columbia  Street. 


HE 


IN  presenting  the  following  pages  to  the  public,  I 
consider  it  incumbent  upon  me  to  state  the  reasons 
which  have  induced  their  publication  in  the  present 
form. 

Most  of  the  chapters  in  this  work  were  written,  at 
leisure  moments,  for  a  Horticultural  Magazine,  for- 
merly published  in  this  place.  That  work  having 
been  for  a  long  time  suspended,  many  of  my  female 
friends  have  solicited  me  to  publish  them  in  the  form 
of  a  book.  In  compliance  with  their  solicitations  I 
have  been  induced  to  collect  and  arrange  them,  to- 
gether with  additional  matter,  in  the  hope  of  thereby 
furnishing  a  work  that  might  be  useful  to  those  am- 
ateur florists  who  possess  more  taste  for  Floriculture 
than  knowledge  of  the  principles  and  practice  by 
which  it  should  be  directed.  I  have  endeavored,  ac- 
cording to  the  best  of  my  humble  ability,  to  make 
the  subject  as  intelligible,  and  to  present  its  promi- 
nent principles  encumbered  with  as  few  difficulties 
or  embarrassments,  as  possible. 


M363115 


In  getting 
been  spared^ 
in  procurii 
acter,  to  maJ 
pocket,  comparl 

A  Glossary,  carefully  compiled  from  the  best  bo- 
tanical works,  has  been  added,  which,  it  is  believed, 
will  be  found  brief,  comprehensive,  and  well  adapted 
to  the  instruction  of  the  young  amateur. 

Not  being  a  professed  Botanist,  I  may  have  com- 
mitted some  errors  in  the  botanical  descriptions ;  but 
I  trust  that  if  it  be  so,  they  will  be  found  to  be  of  so 
trivial  a  nature  as  not  materially  to  impair  the  value 
of  the  work. 

Under  these  circumstances  I  beg  the  indulgence  of 
my  readers,  hoping  that  my  humble  efforts  to  facili- 
tate their  progress  in  Floriculture  may  not  be  consid- 
ered unworthy  of  their  favorable  regard. 


GUIDE1  TO  FLORICULTURE. 


GARDENING?. 

"  No  tale  of  passion  have  I  to  breathe, 
Yet,  gentle  reader,  I  fain  would  wreathe 
A  floral  garland,  whose  leaves  shall  be 
Emblems  and  tokens  of  love  and  thee. 
FLOWERS! — they  bloom  by  thelowliestcot— 
May  they  gladden,  and  brighten,  and  bless  thy  lot." 

Gardening  is  founded  on  natural  philosophy,  and  the  least 
economical  principle  in  its  study  of  course  informs  the  mind 
into  the  nature  and  truth  of  the  culture  of  flowers,  and  we 
then  discover  the  habit  of  those  plants  we  wish  to  cultivate 
with  success.  Where  nature  has  not  endowed  the  mind 
with  a  natural  taste  for  the  physiological  principles  of  the 
culture  of  flowers,  it  is  time  lost  by  endeavoring  to  ac- 
quire it 

"  What  then,  is  taste,  but  those  internal  powers, 
Active  and  strong,  and  feelingly  alive 
To  each  fine  impulse  ?  a  discerning  sense 
Of  decent  and  sublime,  with  quick  disgust 
From  things  deformed,  or  disarranged,  or  gross 
In  species'?     This,  nor  gems,  nor  stores  of  gold, 
Nor  purple  state,  nor  culture,  can  bestow : 
But  God  alone,  when  first  his  active  hand 
Imprints  the  sacred  bias  of  the  soul." 


6  A  GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

Where  taste  really  does  exist,  there  is  a  manifold  plea- 
sure to  the  mind  that  serves  to  preserve  the  human  life 
more  essentially  than  appears  to  the  common  observer. 
This  may  appear  strange  ;  but  when  we  reflect  on  the  sol- 
ace the  mind  undergoes  at  leisure  moments,  even  to  the 
.  business  man  —  the  evenness  created  in  the  temper  —  the 
pleasurable  change  he  experiences  after  the  pursuit  of  busi- 
ness—  all  tend  to  create  in  the  mind  that  which  it  stands 
in  need  of,  a  blissful /teling^  an  incentive  that  keeps  the  body 
in  health  and  vigor.  The  occupancy  of  Gardening  after 
the  business  of  the  day  is  over,  if  not  thus  passed,  would  be 
in  luxury  or  temporary  pleasure  which  would  only  debili- 
tate the  mind  and  constitution.  That  part  of  Gardening 
which  relates  to  the  culture  of  plants  is  of  easy  manage- 
ment, and  does  not  require  the  skill  so  generally  supposed 
or  bestowed  on  them.  Many  plants  are  killed  by  kindness, 
when  it  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  plants,  like  the  human 
family,  require  a  state  of  rest,  therefore  should  not  be  kept 
always  in  a  growing  state.  For  instance,  a  person  deprived 
of  his  natural  rest  becomes  eventually  unfit  for  his  avoca- 
tion ;  not  only  that,  he  must  live  regular,  or.  he  will  never 
be  vigorous  or  of  a  healthful  habit.  Plants  are  living 
things ;  nature  has  not  endowed  them  with  speech,  itis  true ; 
still,  by  watching  them  close,  there  are  certain  signs  in 
their  appearance  so  apparent  that  will  convince  the  cultiva- 
tor that,  if  not  treated  correct  in  their  habit,  a  different  sys- 
tem must  be  adopted.  Therefore,  to  come  as  near  nature 
as  possible,  our  understanding  should  teach  us  that  plants  in 
pots  should  be  repotted  into  fresh  soil  in  their  season  ;  that 
is,  when  in  a  state  of  rest,  and  be  watered  only  when  grow- 
ing, to  make  them  healthy,  and  the  soil  should  be  as  near 


GARDENING.  7 

that  as  we  can  possibly  find  to  suit  their  natural  habit ;  by 
doing  this  we  make  them  healthy,  and  perform  the  function 
so  desirable  in  them  to  flower  well.  This  is  the  business  of 
the  amateur  to  see  to,  and  may  be  considered  their  food  and 
rest,  without  which  no  science  in  Gardening  can  prosper. 

Gardening,  as  amusement,  is  certainly  one  of  the  most 
pleasing  recreations  in  existence,  possessing  novelty,  and  en- 
thusiasm, and  is  food  to  the  human  mind  which  softens  the 
passions,  meliorates  the  understanding,  and  adds  days  of 
happiness  to  that  period  of  our  existence  which  our  Maker 
has  blessed  us  with.  The  mind  is  filled  with  a  pleasing 
excitement,  even  in  the  attainment  of  a  new  plant,  thus 
giving  to  science  an  opportunity  of  still  increasing  those 
pleasures  so  desirable.  The  diffusion  of  a  useful  knowledge 
in  Gardening  is  also  communicative  from  one  person  to 
another,  making  our  condition  as  natural  beings,  more 
commanding,  and  developing  our  ideas  as  they  expand,  and 
more  influential  in  the  path  of  life,  even  to  the  most  humble 
part  of  vegetable  physiology.  There  has  been,  in  most 
works  published,  a  mystery  on  the  subject  of  Gardening 
and  the  propagation  of  plants ;  for  why,  may  it  be  asked, 
has  this  dogmatical  system  predominated  so  long?  This 
cannot  be  answered  unless  the  whole  system  has  been  con- 
fined too  much  to  certain  classes  of  men  who,  instead  of 
endeavoring  to  create  a  taste  for  flowers,  have  been  more 
studious  to  check  floriculture,  unmindful,  at  the  same  time, 
that  the  more  converts  gained  to  the  system  of  Gardening 
the  more  plants  would  be  sold  by  them.  The  knowledge 
of  cultivating  is  now  becoming  better  known  ;  indeed,  the 
whole  art  is  in  a  state  of  revolution  ;  we  cannot  turn  to  any 
place  but  we  see  some  of  the  most  beautiful  gems  of  Flora 


8  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

almost  at  every  house.  This  is  as  it  should  be ;  ladies  will 
find  a  solace  to  their  minds  in  their  leisure  hours  that  could 
not  be  better  employed. 

In  regard  to  gardeners  in  general,  in  this  country,  the 
major  part  are  self-taught:  a  reflection  on  this  particular 
subject  alone  ought  to  encourage  those  possessing  a  natural 
taste  for  the  science,  that  the  ART  is  attainable  j  this  will 
better  enable  any  to  cultivate  with  a  prospect  of  success. 
The  Scotch  gardeners  are  considered  the  best  in  Europe ; 
we  seldom  find  an  English  gardener,  on  his  arrival  in  this 
country,  capable  of  conducting  a  green-house  as  it  should 
be  done.  This  leads  a  person  to  suppose  that  those  exotics 
are  only  employed  in  the  drudgery  of  weeding  in  their  na- 
tive country,  and  when  here  wish  to  pass  for  bonafide  gar- 
deners; indeed,  most  of  the  experienced  English  gardeners 
find  their  knowledge  of  cultivation  in  this  country  deficient, 
as  the  difference  of  clime  and  soil  varies  materially  to  what 
they  were  accustomed  to ;  but  a  scientific  man  will  soon 
discover  the  difference  and  alter  his  mode,  if  not  too  old  in 
his  fixed  principles  or  prejudice. 

There  are  other  sciences  attached  to  gardening  that 
makes  the  system  more  complete,  which  is  understood  but 
partially  in  practice,  and  not  at  all  in  theory.  I  allude  to 
Botany^  that  part  which  relates  to  plants ;  it  is  a  branch 
that  ought  to  be  studied,  as  it  leads  the  mind  to  a  thorough 
knowledge  of  the  distinct  species  of  plants,  their  properties, 
sexes,  order,  and  indeed  the  whole  system,  The  ground 
work  of  this  science  leads  the  mind  to  a  knowledge  of  ma- 
ny important  particulars  in  relation  to  flowers.  To  know 
how  to  anatomize  flowers  is  particularly  interesting  to  the 
mind  of  the  cultivator,  though  not  absolutely  necessary. 


GARDENING.  9 

Study  begets  refinement,  is  obvious,  and  knowledge  is  essen- 
tial to  the  human  mind ;  the  food  thus  created  begets 
friends  who  seek  for  information.  Thus  we  find  a  pleasure 
in  diffusing  that  usefulness  we  may  attain  by  a  little  study. 
There  are  but  few  Florists  that  are  Botanists.  This  may 
appear  strange^  but  it  is  an  incontrovertable  fact,  when  both 
could  be  studied  at  leisure  moments  without  interfering  with ' 
each  other ;  and  if  florists  understood  the  fundamental  prin* 
ciples  of  botany  many  errors  could  be  corrected  that  are  now 
extant,  as  the  practical  botanist  is  sometimes  arbitrary  in  his 
rules,  which  is  out  of  the  power  of  the  florist  to  correct.  — 
Chemistry  is  another  branch  highly  essential  to  the  art  of 
gardening,  which  will  be  understood  in  a  general  point  of 
view  before  many  years  elapse.  The  farming  class  will 
find  it  necessary  to  know  the  quality  of  soil  he  makes  use  of 
to  ensure  success  in  his  department,  as  well  as  the  'practical 
gardener.  It  is  not  my  object  to  crowd  the  mind  of  the 
young  amateur  in  the  art  of  Gardening,  or  its  requisites,  for 
it  is  simple  and  can  be  managed  without  understanding  the 
theory  of  botany  or  chemistry.  I  only  point  out  the  great 
desideratum  of  a  valuable  acquisition  to  the  mind  if  these 
theories  could  be  attained.  Educated  to  those  sciences  the 
mind  would  be  elevated  above  the  condition  that  falls  to 
the  lot  of  practical  gardeners,  and  the  field  of  science  would 
be  open  to  discover  things  the  mind  does  not  now  con- 
template. 


10  A    GUIDE    TO    FLORICULTURE. 


PLANTS. 

"  I  have  sweet  thoughts  of  thee ! 
They  come  around  me  like  the  voice  of  song ; 
They  come  like  birds  that  in  the  south  belong, 
And  wear  a  gayer  wing,  and  brighter  crest, 
Than  those  that  on  the  roof-tree  build   the  nest 
They  come  more  tender,  beautiful,  and  bright, 
Than  any  thoughts  that  others  can  excite." 

Plants  are  divided  and  known  as  Annuals,  Biennials, 
and  Perennials.  Annuals  are  such  as  flower  the  first  sea- 
son, ripen  its  seed,  and  then  its  functions  cease  to  exist. 
Of  this  class  of  flowering  plants  we  have  some  very  beau- 
tiful to  decorate  the  flower  garden,  at  the  same  time  some 
of  the  most  worthless.  To  point  out  any  particular  variety 
would  be  usurping  the  pen  in  a  delicate  cause,  as  the  mer- 
its of  Flora's  beauties  are  as  various  as  people's  tastes  ;  for 
there  are  no  flowers,  however  humble,  but  what  possess 
some  intrinsic  beauty ;  but  the  eye  that  admires  one  may 
dislike  another,  and  that  baneful  one  may  be  interesting  to 
another  person.  Annuals  are  a  class  of  flowers  indispensi- 
ble  to  the  flower  garden ;  their  seeds  should  be  sown  in 
March  and  April ;  much  depends  on  the  season  and  when 
wanted  to  flower.  Some  annuals  will  not  bear  removing, 
but  the  generality  should  be  removed,  when  small,  for  seed- 
lings ;  the  sooner  removed,  after  out  of  the  seed-leaf,  the 
better,  for  when  the  root-fibres  are  small  the  seedlings  do 
not  feel  their  removal  so  sensibly  as  when  large.  Then 
again  in  the  arrangement  of  plants  their  different  colors  and 
height  must  be  guided  by  fancy ;  but  to  contrast  their  col- 


PLANTS.  1 1 

ors  gives  them  a  pleasing  effect.  The  Balsam,  China  As- 
ters, Petunias,  and  many  others  are  suitable  for  pot  culture 
as  well  as  the  open  ground  ;  these  annuals  will  always  be 
favorites  with  the  lover  of  good  flowers.  There  are  many 
annuals  that  are  climbers:  those  should  be  transplanted 
where  they  will  show  to  the  best  advantage  while  in  flower. 
There  are  not  less  than  one  thousand  annuals  in  cultivation, 
and  the  list  still  increasing;  but  of  late  there  has  not  been 
many  worthy  of  cultivation  added  to  them,  and  if  one  half 
of  the  present  number  were  discarded  there  would  be  enough 
left  then.  From  the  numerous  lists  published  in  the  cata- 
logues the  amateur  must  judge  for  himself  in  his  selection, 
and  by  sowing  seeds  at  different  periods  would  enable  him 
to  have  annuals  nearly  all  the  year  round. 

Biennials  are  those  that  flower  the  second  year,  ripen 
their  seeds,  and  then  cease  to  exist.  This  class  of  flowers 
are  decidedly  omimental  and  consist  of  a  numerous  family, 
still  not  so  extensive  as  annuals,  but  generally  considered 
more  valuable  for  their  exterior  beauty  and  usefulness  in 
the  flower  garden.  There  are  some  biennials  that  flower 
the  first  year,  but  generally  they  do  not  before  the  second. 
The  biennials  do  not  require  their  seeds  sown  so  early  as 
annuals.  Amongst  them  are  many  florist  flowers  which 
may  be  preserved  for  years  by  cuttings  or  slips  from  shoots 
that  have  no  flower  buds  on  them.  Biennials  are  divided 
into  classes,  such  as  hardy,  half  hardy,  and  tender.  The 
proper  time  to  sow  their  seeds,  like  annuals,  will  depend  on 
circumstances ;  some  so  soon  as  ripe,  that  is,  when  they 
flower  early,  and  seed  ripens  in  the  early  part  of  July,  such 
as  the  Sweet  William,  and  a  few  others.  The  general 
sowing  should  be  in  April  and  May ;  when  of  sufficient 


12  A    GUIDE    TO    FLOKICULTUKE. 

size  transplanted  out  to  gain  strength,  and  the  tender  varie- 
ties should  he  potted  off  in  September  arid  housed  before  the 
frost  sets  in ;  the  next  season,  some  of  the  choicest  may  be 
increased  by  cuttings  and  slips.  Biennials,  as  well  as  other 
plants  require  a  good  rich  loam. 

Perennials. — In  regard  to  this  class  of  flowers  they  are 
obtained  from  seed  the  same  as  the  two  former,  will  never 
flower  until  the  second  year,,  but  instead  of  ceasing  to  exist 
as  soon  as  done  flowering,  generally  increase  at  the  root, 
thus  making  a  perpetual  flowering  plant.  Many  suppose 
that  the  perennial  sends  up  the  same  stem  every  season ; 
this  is  not  the  case ;  the  old  stem  ceases  to  exist,  this  gives 
room  for  the  increase  of  the  root  at  a  more  or  less  given 
distance  from  the  original  stem ;  and  this  freak  of  nature 
makes  it  easily  divided  and  constitutes  a  perpetual  plant. 
Perennials  are  divided  into  two  classes,  herbaceous  and 
shrubby ;  the  first  may  be  divided  again  into  bulbous,  tu- 
berous, and  fibrous.  The  process  of  increasing  them  dif- 
fers materially  j  the  bulbous  by  offsets  and  seeds,  shrubby 
by  cuttings,  seeds.,  layerings,  and  slips.  The  herbaceous 
perennial  bulbs  include  our  favorites,  such  as  the  Tulip, 
Crown  Imperial,  Hyacinth,  Lilies,.  Crocuses,  &c.  These 
should  be  taken  up  e^ery  season  when  the  foliage  dies 
down,  and  be  replanted  again  in  another  part  of  the  garden 
between  the  months  of  August  and  December.  The  tube- 
rous perennials  compose  our  finest  collections  of  plants; 
some  should  be  removed  every  season,  while  others  should 
be  allowed  to  remain  three  years.  The  Phloxs,  Lupins, 
Asters,  Peonies,  and  many  others  should  be  divided  every 
three  years,  as  the  nature  of  the  plants  will  indicate  by  then 
growth  and  disposition,  and  planted  it  situations  corres- 


PLANTS.  13 

ponding  to  their  natural  habit,  in  season  of  blooming,  <fcc., 
the  tallest  in  the  back  ground,  and  endeavor  to  make  them 
contrast  in  color  and  be  as  much  diversified  as  possible. 
It  is  the  practice  of  many  to  flower  bulbs  by  themselves, 
such  as  the  Tulip;  Hyacinth,  &c. ;  this  is  certainly  a  good 
plan  when  the  collection  is  large.  Bulbs  show  to  good  ad- 
vantage in  the  border  with  other  plants,  but  when  inter- 
spersed with  other  flowers  cannot  be  always  re  moved  when 
required  without  disturbing  other  plants  ;  when  this  is  the 
case  it  would  be  best  to  top-dress  the  border  and  let  thean 
remain  two  or  three  years,  and  they  will  flower  well  and 
cause  but  little  trouble,  and  be  still  ornamental.  Hardy 
shrubby  perennials  do  not  die  down,  but  retain  their  habit, 
and  many  varieties  their  leaves;  these  are  called  ever- 
greens, and  are  propagated  by  seeds,  and  some  few  by  lay- 
ering. The  double  flowering  herbaceous  perennials  will 
not  seed  freely  and  must  be  increased  by  cuttings  or  divid- 
ing the  root  in  the  fall.  Fibrous  rooted,  such  as  the  Car- 
nation and  its  tribe,  more  by  layering  than  by  seed,  and 
sometimes  by  cuttings  and  slips.  Take  the  perennials  in 
general  they  merit  more  care  than  is  generally  bestowed  on 
them,  being  easily  managed  (with  the  exception  of  some 
exotics),  and  propagated,  affording  us  some  of  the  most  mag- 
nificent flowers  in  cultivation.  If  the  perennials  do  not 
flower  from  seed  the  first  season  that  should  be  no  draw- 
back, we  should  bear  it  in  mind  that  when  once  flowered 
we  may  consider  them  perpetual,  and  those  hardy  require 
little  or  no  care  afterward,  which  is  a  great  desideratum  in 
a  large  or  small  garden,  when  time  is  an  object  to  a  busines? 
person, 


14  A   GUIDE  TO  FLORICULTURE. 


THE  HOT-BED. 

**  Think'st  thou  to  be  concealed,  thou  little  SEED 

That  in  the  bosom  of  the  earth  art  cast, 
And  there,  like  cradled  infant,  sleep'st  awhile, 

Unmoved  by  trampling  storm  or  thunder  blast? 
Thou  bid'st  thy  time ;  for  herald  Spring  shall  come 

And  wake  thee,  all  unwilling  as  thou  art, 
Unhood  thine  eyes,  unfold  thy  clasping  sheath, 

And  stir  the  languid  pulses  of  thy  heart ; 
The  loving  rains  shall  woo  thee,  and  the  dews 

Weep  o'er  thy  bed,  and  e're  thou  art  aware 
Forth  steals  the  tender  leaf,  the  wiry  stem, 

The  trembling  bud,  the  flower  that  scents  the  air, 
And  soon,  to  all,  the  ripened  fruitage  tells 

The  evil  or  the  good  that  in  nature  dwells." 

The  hot-bed  is  necessary  sometimes  to  force  seeds  and 
plants  early  in  the  spring ;  this  plan  is  seldom  resorted  to 
by  the  amateur,  as  it  requires  some  experience  in  the  man- 
agement. It  may  not  be  the  good  fortune  of  lovers  of 
choice  flowers  to  live  in  a  city  where  market  gardeners  re- 
side that  are  in  the  habit  of  making  hot-beds  annually ;  it 
will  be  necessary  to  give  some  directions  on  the  subject. 
To  those  living  in  a  city  more  practical  knowledge  may  be 
gleaned  by  seeing  one  made  than  could  be  gained  by  pre- 
cept. However,  to  those  wishing  to  make  a  hot-bed  it  will 
be  necessary  to  provide  a  cart-load  of  fresh  manure  from  a 
stable ;  nearly  one  half  should  be  straw  and  hay,  what  ia 
commonly  called  long  litter  by  gardeners ;  the  whole  should 
be  laid  in  a  heap  for  about  a  week  to  ferment,  and  must  be 
protected  from  rain ;  then  turn  it  over,  the  next  day  the 


THE   HOT-BED.  15 

same,  shaking  it  well  so  as  to  mix  the  outside  with  the 
other ;  on  the  third  day  the  manure  will  be  fit  to  proceed 
with,  the  manure  having  exhausted  all  the  rank  heat  cre« 
ated  in  the  fermentation ;  this  is  termed  mellowing,  and  pre- 
vents the  liability  of  burning  the  plants.  One  load  will  be 
quite  enough  for  a  frame  three  feet  by  four. 

In  forming  the  bed  it  will  be  necessary  to  drive  a  stake 
to  form  each  corner,  the  size  of  the  bed  which  should  be 
five  feet  by  six,  this  would  be  one  foot  wider  than  your 
frame  every  way.  The  outlines  being  formed,  commence 
laying  on  the  manure  in  layers,  shaking  and  mixing  it  well 
with  the  litter  as  you  proceed,  and  beating  it  down  with 
the  fork  evenly,  so  that  the  top  will  be  perfectly  level;  when 
your  bed  is  complete,  it  will  be  about  three  feet  high ;  then 
take  your  frame  and  place  it  in  the  middle,  and  lay  manure 
all  round  the  frame  to  near  the  top,  to  do  which  you  must 
reserve  enough  for  the  purpose ;  the  object  of  this  is  to  cre- 
ate all  the  warmth  possible  inside  of  the  frame ;  then  put  on 
the  sash,  and  when  you  discover  the  heat  arise,  which  will 
be  exemplified  by  the  steam  on  the  glass,  begin  to  lay  on 
the  earth  in  the  frame  to  the  depth  of  four  inches,  observing 
that  the  soil  be  not  wet,  or  your  bed  may  receive  too  great 
a  check  to  answer  your  purpose,  and  not  return  again. 
This  done  you  can  sow  your  seeds  in  the  soil  or  pans  made 
for  the  purpose  ;  pans  are  more  desirable  as  no  risk  will  be 
run  in  having  your  seedlings  burnt,  as  the  pans  can  be 
placed  on  top  of  the  soil,  and  as  the  heat  begins  to  subside 
the  pans  can  be  sunk  to  the  rims.  The  heat  of  a  hot-bed 
should  not  exceed  60  Fahrenheit  for  flower  seeds.  It  will 
be  necessary  to  examine  the  degree  of  heat  in  the  morning. 
if  higher  than  60  the  sash  must  be  raised  a  little  to  give 


16  A   GUIDE  TO   FLORICULTURE. 

vent  to  the  surplus  steam  to  prevent  accident.     In  the  day 
time  it  may  be  necessary  to  shade  the  young  plants  or  give 
air  when  the  heat  of  the  sun  is  great,  as  your  bed  must  be 
due  south  for  the  benefit  of  the  morning  sun,  and  a  dry  sit- 
uation is  requisite.    The  glass  must  be  covered  with  boards 
or  mats  at  night  to  keep  out  the  frost ;  in  three  weeks  the 
heat  of  the  bed  will  be  diminished ;  then  take  away  the 
manure  round  the  sides  of  the  frame  and  replace  it  with 
fresh ;  this  will  renew  the  heat  for  some  time  longer )  or 
you  can  make  another  bed  alongside ;  by  doing  so  consid- 
erable heat  will  be  conveyed  into  the  first,  thus  receiving 
the  benefit  and  use  of  two  frames  if  necessary.     Unless  the 
amateur  has  had  some  experience  in  flowers  it  would  bs 
advisable  to  make  a  hot-bed  of  tanners  bark,  which  can  be 
done  in  the  following  manner.    Sink  a  frame  in  the  ground 
about  three  feet,  then  procure  a  load  of  fresh  tanners  bark, 
which  should  be  put  under  a  shed  and  be  turned  over  often 
until  dry,  then  fill  the  pit  to  within  six  inches  of  the  top  for 
seed,  which  must  be  sown  in  pans,  which  should  be  sunk  to 
the  rim-  then  place  the  glass  over  and  manage  the  same  as 
the  other  hot-bed.    There  will  be  no  danger  of  burning  the 
plants,  as  the  heat  arising  from  the  bark  is  gentle  and  will 
last  much  longer  than  one  made  of  stable  manure.     Plants 
that  require  bottom  heat  to  start  them  must  be  so  managed 
as  not  to  interfere  with  the  glass,  or  the  steam  and  sun  will 
disfigure  them. 


SEED-SOWING. 


SEED-SOWING. 

**  Come,  ye  soft  sylphs !  who  sport  on  Latian  land, 
Come,  sweet-lipped  Zephyr,  and  Favoneous  bland, 
Touch  the  fine  seed,  instinct  with  life,  to  shoot 
On  earth's  cold  bosom  its  descending  root; 
With  pith  elastic  stretch  its  rising  sterfi ; 
Part  the  twin  lobes,  expand  the  throbbing  germ, 
Clasp  in  your  airy  arms  the  aspiring  plume, 
Fan  with  your  balmy  breath  its  kindling  bloom, 
Each  widening  scale  and  bursting  film  unfold, 
Swell  the  green  cup,  and  tint  the  flower  with  gold; 
While  in  bright  veins  the  silvery  sap  ascends, 
And  refluent  blood  in  milky  eddies  bends; 
While  spread  in  air  the  leaves  respiring  play, 
Or  drink  the  golden  quintessence  of  day." 

This  operation  is  generally  performed  early  in  the  spring, 
and  it  is  absolutely  necessary,  in  the  first  place  to  prepare 
the  ground  to  make  it  suitable  for  their  reception,  in  doing 
which  it  should  be  observed  that  in  turning  up  the  soil  in 
the  spring  for  that  purpose,  never  dig  but  half  spade  deep, 
for  the  soil  in  the  spring"  is  cold,  and  for  that  purpose  is  deep 
enough  ;  if  deeper  it  would  have  a  tendency  to  chill  and 
rot  your  seed.  That  part  of  the  soil  turned  up  should  be 
well  pulverized  to  encourage  their  growth;  another  thing, 
neither  should  the  soil  be  too  dry  or  too  moist,  the  one  be- 
ing as  detrimental  as  the  other ;  though  if  dry  could  in 
some  measure  be  counterbalanced  with  the  watering-pot. 
The  state  of  the  soil  will  depend  in  a  great  measure  on  the 
time ;  if  early  it  is  most  likely  to  be  damp.  If  the  soil  be 
dry  after  sowing  the  seed,  give  it  a  gentle  watering  to  pre- 

2 


18  A   GUIDE  TO   FLORICULTURE. 

vent  the  wind  separating  the  seed  from  the  soil,  which  will 
happen  sometimes  without  this  precaution.  If  the  soil  he 
damp  nothing  more  is  required  than  lightly  covering  the 
seed  by  raking  the  soil  over  them. 

The  depth  required  for  seeds  depend  on  the  size ;  some 
are  so  minute  that  to  cover  them  they  would  never  come  up, 
probably  rot,  while  some  would  lie  dormant  for  years,  until 
turned  up  to  near  the  surface,  and  then  germinate.  In 
sowing  seeds  they  should  be  watered  sparingly,  for  if  the 
seeds  be  old,  which  is  often  the  case,  you  will  rot  them ; 
therefore  it  is  necessary  to  be  cautious  in  the  use  of  that 
clement  To  water  seed  often  with  the  view  to  make  them 
come  up  quick,  which  is  often  done,  is  not  judicious  ;  it  is 
the  best,  generally,  that  is  the  longest  in  germinating ;  we 
find  this  to  be  the  case  with  the  Auricula,  and  most 
double  varieties,  the  Balsam  for  instance.  The  first  and 
early  seeds  that  germinate  are  the  strongest,  however  desir- 
able at  the  time,  generally  prove  the  most  indifferent,  flow- 
ers, and  in  most  cases  single.  Those  that  have  been  in  the 
habit  of  sowing  and  raising  seedlings  must  observe  this,  and 
vill  give  their  friends  the  best  and  strongest  plants.  There 
does  not  appear  so  much  advantage  gained  in  early  sowing 
of  garden  flower  seeds  as  is  attributed  to  it,  for  those  sown 
the  middle  of  March  will  flower  about  the  same  time  as 
those  sown  two  weeks  earlier,  unless  forced  and  kept  in  the 
hot-bed ;  those  sown  early  in  the  open  ground  are  often  <>ut 
ofF  in  the  seed  leaf  by  the  early  frost,  which  is  the  most 
precarious  time  for  seedlings. 

There  are  many  annuals  that  do  best  if  the  seed  be  sown 
in  the  fall  and  slightly  protected  through  the  winter,  such 
as  Phlox  Drummondii,  Rocket  Larkspur,  Flos  Adonis, 


SEED-SOWING.  19 

Calliopsis,  and  many  others.  If  a  person  has  the  conven- 
ience of  a  pit  or  frame  to  protect  them  the  advantage  would 
be  great ;  stronger  plants,  larger  flowers,  and  better  seeds 
would,  be  the  result.  For  those  that  prefer  sowing  early 
seed  it  would  be  a  good  plan  to  have  a  box  made  for  the, 
purpose,  to  be  covered  with  glass  ;  a  light  8  by  10  would 
be  a  good  size,  and  would  protect  seedlings  from  all  danger 
of  being  cut  off  by  early  frost;  or  the  seed  may  be  sown  in 
pots  and  be  covered  with  glass,  though  this  plan  would  bo 
more  troublesome  than  the  box.  There  are  some  seedlings 
that  will  not  bear  removing  very  well ;  we  see  this  in  the 
Poppy  tribe ;  such  should  not  be  sown  before  the  last  of 
March,  and  then  where  intended  to  flower. 

It  must  be  obvious  that  planting  seed  in  the  ground  must 
be  preferable,  and  covering  them  with  a  small  frame  with 
glass,  for  less  attention  will  be  required  ;  and  if  the  spring 
should  be  wet  it  would  more  likely  save  them  from  rotting, 
which,  if  fully  exposed,  would  be  the  case ;  or  if  a  -dry 
spring,  would-  receive  much  nourishment  from  the  ground. 
Sow  some  seed  the  beginning  of  March,  and  again  the  mid- 
dle ;  by  this  means  you  may  save  a  few  plants  of  each,  or 
if  those  sown  first  fail,  the  latter  may  succeed.  Annuals 
generally  do  not  require  to  be  covered  deep,  excepting  the 
large  kinds,  such  as  the  Lupin,  Pea,  &c. ;  if  sown  near  the 
surface,  the  soil  being  warm  and  receiving  the  direct  rays 
of  the  sun,  will  more  essentially  assist  the  seeds  to  germi- 
nate, for  light  and  due  moisture  is  necessary  to  their  growth } 
and  if  too  deep,  it  deprives  them  of  the  fundamental  princi- 
ples necessary  to  make  them  living  plants.  A  seedling; 
that  has  forced  its  way  through  deep  soil  is  naturally  weak- 
ened, consequently  more  likely  to  be  destroyed  by  early 


20  A   GUIPJ2   TO    FLORICTTtTURE. 

frost  than  if  near  the  surface.  After  a  plant  is  out  of  the 
seed  leaf  it  will  withstand  a  heavy  frost ;  this  is  one  impor- 
tant fact  and  to  be  observed  until  plants  are  safe.  Plants 
are  frequently  raised  in  hot-beds ;  this  is  generally  done 
when  the  amateur  has  gained  experience,  and  then  is  adopt- 
ed only  to  bring  forward  choice  seeds  or  scarce  plants. 
When  your  seedlings  are  ready  for  transplanting  the  soil 
will  be  in  a  fit  state  to  dig  one  spade  deep,  which  should  be 
done  to  enable  the  root-fibres  to  find  their  way  into  the 
ground. 

To  force  seed  a  solution  of  iodine,  chlorine,  $c.,  is  gene- 
rally considered  good  for  that  purpose  when  difficult  to  veg- 
etate. To  make  a  solution  of  one  sixtieth  part  of  water  to 
chlorine  of  lime  to  steep  the  seed  in,  will  certainly  accele- 
rate their  growth.  Half  an  ounce  of  muriate  of  ammonia  to 
one  gallon  of  water,  and  applied  to  seed  sown  every  sixth 
time  of  watering,  will  make  them  germinate  very  quick ; 
by  such  chemical  stimuli  many  valuable  seeds  are  made  to 
grow,  and  some  of  the  finest  plants  may  be  obtained  by  this 
means,  as  the  best  seeds  are  so  difficult  to  germinate,  par- 
ticularly as  the  seed  pods  producing  double  flowers  are 
generally  supposed  to  be  diseased. 

Light  is  another  agency  necessary  in  the  germination 
and  health  of  seeds  and  plants,  though  not  in  the  earliest 
stage  ;  if  seedlings  drawn  up  are  sickly  can  it  be  expected 
that  they  will  produce  good  flowers  ?  certainly  not !  It  is 
only  advisable  to  force  such  seeds  as  are  difficult,  and  the 
forcing  agencies  to  be  used  should  be  applied  with  caution. 
Then  again  it  will  be  found  that  covering  seeds  with  glass 
has  a  tendency  to  force  them;  the  color  of  the  glass  is 
also  another  powerful  agency  in  stimulating  them ;  purple 


SEED-SOWING.  21 

incl  violet  a  re  the  best  colors.  This  will  also  apply  to  cut- 
tings ;  a  bell  glass  of  either  color  is  preferable  to  white,  for 
the  light  forced  through  the  prism  is  separated  into  differ- 
ent colors,  and  experience  has  proven  that  glass  possesses 
the  most  powerful  chemical  action  in  promoting  seed  to 
germinate.  As  I  said  before,  in  the  first  stage  of  germina- 
tion, light  is  not  so  essential,  though  if  sown  too  deep  of 
course  the  light  is  too  much  excluded  and  the  necessary 
nourishment  is  exhausted  before  the  seed  could  reach  the 
light ;  therefore  deprives  the  function  so  essential  from  per- 
forming the  development  of  leaves,  which  are  indispens  ible 
to  the  production  of  roots,  and  often  perish  or  remain  dor- 
mant ;  turning  over  the  ground  often  brings  the  seed  with- 
in the  desired  range,  and  the  pumuli  ascending  reaches  the 
light  and  germination  takes  place — growth  is  best  promot- 
ed when  covered  with  glass.  The  influence  of  light  and 
moisture  then  preserves  uniformity  more  congenial. 

M.  Chevreal,  a  French  chemist,  has  demonstrated  many 
interesting  facts  in  regard  to  colors  contrasted  and  their  ef- 
fects. There  has  been  some  experiments  made  in  England 
in  regard  to  colored  glass,  and  it  is  proven  there  that  violet 
and  blue  are  called  chemical  rays ;  green  and  yellow,  lu- 
minous ;  red,  caloric  or  heating  rays-.  The  illustrations  are 
not  exactly  correct.  Light  penetrating  through  colored 
glass  partakes,  in  some  respect,  of  the  character  of  the  rays 
corresponding  with  the  colors  of  the  glass ;  as  blue  admits 
of  the  chemical  rays  to  the  exclusion  of  nearly  all  others ; 
yellow  admits  only  the  permeate  of  the  luminous  rays; 
that  red  glass  cuts  the  rays  of  heat  which  passes  freely.  By 
this  means  it  appears  that  plants  could  be  raised  under  al- 
most any  light  wished  for ;  while  yellow  and  red  are  de- 


22  A   GUIDE    TO   FLORICULTURE. 

structive  to  germination,  for  instance,  if  a  pan  oi  seeds  bo 
sown  and  covered  with  glass,  one  half  with  red  and  yellow 
laid  one  on  the  other  the  seed  would  not  germinate,  while 
the  other  half  being  covered  with  violet  the  seed  would  ger- 
minate quick ;  reverse  the  glass  and  the  result  would  be  the 
seed  would  come  up,  and  those  up  on  the  other  half  would 
cease  to  grow.  This  in  some  measure  corresponds  with 
seeds  sown  on  the  surface  and  exposed  to  the  sun  will  not 
vegetate,  for  a  portion  of  the  sun-light  which  produces  the 
organs  of  light  diffusing  its  warmth,  is  destructive  to  the 
first  process  of  the  vegetation  of  seed,  but  if  removed  into 
the  shade  or  darkened  vegetation  then  commences.  These 
experiments  are  worthy  of  notice,  and  may  prove  of  use  to 
those  fond  of  experiments.  It  was  attributed  to  Mr.  Hunt 
as  the  first  person  that  tried  these  experiments  on  the  ger- 
mination of  seeds  with  colored  glass,  in  1840.  I  find  the 
late  Dr.  Morechini,  of  Rome,  made  the  same  in  1838.  The 
late  professor  of  Botany  is  entitled  to  the  credit  of  his  re- 
searches. 


TRANSPLANTING. 

Transplanting  is  the  art  of  removing  seedlings  from  the 
nursery-bed  into  the  open  ground ;  this  operation  is  easier 
effected  in  the  spring  than  at  any  other  time  through  the 
year,  as  the  spongiolis  of  seedlings  will  strike  fresh  root 
easier.  Transplanting  should  be  done  after  a  shower  or  in 
a  cloudy  day  towards  eveningy  and  great  care  should  be 


TRANSPLANTING.  23 

taken  in  removing  them  to  take  with  them  as  much  soil  as 
will  adhere  to  the  roots ;  then  make  a  hole  to  receive  the 
plant,  place  it  in,  pouring  some  water  to  wash  the  fibres 
down,  then  close  the  hole  round  the  plant;  by  adopting 
this  plan,  instead  of  watering  after,  as  formerly  done,  the 
plant  does  not  feel  so  great  a  check.  It  is  almost  impossi- 
ble to  transplant  without  doing  some  little  injury ;  this  will 
be  clearly  seen  by  their  drooping  appearance  for  several 
days  after  removal ;  then  a  reaction  takes  place,  and  the 
plants  become  vigorous  and  need  no  more  attention.  Some- 
times plants  removed  will  require  shading  when  the  weath- 
er becomes  warm  and  dry ;  to  counterbalance  this  drawback 
the  plants  must  also  be  watered  every  evening  until  suffi- 
ciently recovered.  Balsams^  China  Asters,  and  a  few  other 
fall  flowering  plants  do  best  planted  into  thumb  (one  and  a 
half  inch)  pots  and  kept  in  the  shade  until  well  established, 
and  then  transplanted  into  the  open  ground  without  diffi- 
culty in  the  driest  weather,  for  when  the  weather  is  dry 
seedlings  become  too  large  to  remove,  by  waiting  for  moist 
weather  their  spongioles  will  be  so  abundant  and  large  as 
to  endanger  their  removal  j  but  if  placed,  when  small,  into 
small  pots  and  kept  in  the  shade,  these  difficulties  would  be 
avoided.  When  about  to  remove  seedlings  observe  never 
to  replant  them  deeper  in  the  ground  than  they  were'  in  the 
nursery-bed-  It  is  a  common  practice,  when  plants  are 
drawn  up  through  bad  management,  to  place  them  deeper 
for  appearance  sake ;  but  following  two  wrong  courses  will 
still  make  it  worse.  Plants  generally  establish  themselves 
the  regular  way  in  the  ground,  and  in  transplanting  this 
should  be  borne  in  mind ;  if  drawn  up  they  will  do  better 
replanted  in  conformity  to  their  growth,  and  do  better  than 


24  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

if  planted  deeper  for  the  sake  of  appearance.  Young  plants 
the  sooner  removed  the  better  after  out  of  the  seed  leaf,  pro- 
vided the  weather  be  favorable.  Seeds  will  keep  several 
years  with  care,  with  some  exceptions.  The  China  Aster 
will  not  keep  well  over  one  year ;  the  vitality  of  most,  if 
kept  dry,  will  germinate  in  due  season,  unless  the  weather 
should  be  such  as  to  place  it  beyond  the  control  of  the  ama- 
teur ;  but  his  assiduity  will  do  much  in  assisting  nature  in 
her  developments. 


MANURING  AND  POTTING. 

There  appears  to  be  a  great  diversity  of  opinion  on  the 
subject  of  manuring ;  to  point  out  the  existing  difference 
would  only  perplex  the  amateur  in  his  operations  in  flori- 
culture 5  indeed,  it  would  take  an  experienced  chemist  to 
elucidate  the  subject  thoroughly.  The  word  manure  is 
generally  applied  to  what  is  taken  from  stables,  whether 
horse  or  cow  excrements,  mixed  with  straw  and  other  litter ; 
such  is  not  always  the  case.  Manure,  in  gardening,,  is 
meant  to  convey  the  idea  to  enrich  and  fertilize  the  soil  in 
the  garden  ;  still  it  must  be  observed  what  is  food  for  one 
kind  of  soil  is  not  so  for  another ;  therefore  there  is  a  great 
difference  in  manure.  If  the  soil  be  a  marl  then  the  ap- 
plication of  sand  would  constitute  a  manure  to  make  it  fri- 
able, that  is,  suitable  to  receive  plants.  There  are  other 
kinds  that  would  make  the  soil  useful,,  which  none  but  a 
chemist  can  tell  by  analyzing  it.  Horse  and  cow  manures 


MANURING   AND    POTTING.  25 

nre  good  stimulants  for  the  growth  of  plants  in  common 
garden  soil,  but  in  .no  case  should  it  be  used  unless  three 
years  old,  or  your  soil  will  be  rilled  with  weeds.  To  ma- 
nure a  garden  will  require  some  judgment ;  to  manure  the 
same  soil  every  season  is  as  bad  as  no  manure  at  all ;  chang- 
ing the  crop  is  preferable,  as  some  seed  will  deteriorate 
more  than  others ;  for  instance  the  Rocket  Larkspur  never 
ought  to  be  sown  in  the  same  bed  two  seasons  in  succession. 
It  will  frequently  happen  by  over  manuring  the  garden  the 
soil  becomes  black,  and  many  suppose  the  soil  extremely 
rich  when  it  is  the  reverse ;  so  much  manure  being  laid  on 
the  soil  the  water  becomes  saturated  in  the  soil  as  to  make 
it  so  sterile  that  plants  cannot  exist  in  it.  When  such  is 
the  case  it  will  be  necessary  to  use  lime  as  a  manure  to 
counteract  the  humic  acid  contained  in  the  soil,  caused  by 
the  superfluous  use  of  the  stable  manure.  Manure  from  the 
stable  should  never  be  used  with  lime,  as  one  destroys  the 
effect  of  the  other,  nor  until  it  has  been  regularlyfermented. 

Stable  manure  is  required  more  plentifully  for  pot  cult- 
ure, as  the  frequent  watering  of  the  plants  in  pots  will  nat- 
urally wash  the  substance  from  the  plants ;  the  frequent 
watering  of  pot  plants  also  makes  it  indispensi  ble  to  shift 
the  soil  often  ;  this  is  termed  repotting  which  is  performed 
once  or  twice  a  year,  and  the  best  time  to  effect  this  is 
spring  and  fall,  and  the  best  soil  for  that  purpose  is  a  maid- 
en soil.  This  is  a  term  used  by  gardeners,  and  can  be  ob- 
tained from  the  commons  or  old  meadows  by  taking  off  the. 
turf,  then  dig  three  or  four  inches  below;  this  will  const;* 
tute  maiden  soil,  and  if  inclined  to  clay  add  a  small  portion 
of  sand. 

Some  plants  require  a  richer  soil  than  others ;  when  that 
3 


26  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

is  the  case  the  addition  of  old  cow  manure  will  do.  Differ- 
ent locations  will  make  a  difference  in  soil,  also  in  growth 
of  plants  ;  and  in  potting  plants  where  you  find  the  soil  stiff 
and  binding,  always  add  sand  to  correct  that  fault.  There 
are  different  soils  used  hy  gardeners,  such  as  peat  earth,  a 
vegetable  matter  decayed,  and  can  be  passed  through  a 
sieve.  Peat  bog  is  such  as  generally  is  found  in  swamps. 
Sandy  loam  is  loam  with  a  portion  of  sand  in  it,  and  is  what 
is  mostly  used  for  general  culture.  Sandy  soil  is  effected 
by  adding  more  sand  to  the  sandy  loam.  Vegetable 
mould  is  decayed  vegetables  and  weeds  collected  in  the  gar- 
den, and  thrown  in  a  heap  to  rot  for  three  years.  Garden 
mould  or  loam  is  such  as  does  not  contain  any  sand.  Clay 
soil  is  not  good  unless  you  mix  different  manures  to  make 
it  friable,  and  then  not  good  for  pot  plants.  Leaf  mould  is 
composed  entirely  of  decayed  leaves,  and  when  mixed  with 
sand  is  a  most  excellent  soil  for  pot  culture. 

In  potting  plants  it  is  essential  in  all  cases  to  havd  a  good 
drainage  by  placing  one  inch  (much  depends  On  the  size  of 
the  pot)  of  pieces  of  broken  pots  or  small  pieces  of  brick  at 
the  bottom  to  prevent  any  deleterious  effects  to  the  plants  if 
over-watered.  In  potting  plants  never  over-pot,  that  is, 
never  place  a  plant  in  a  pot  that  is  too  large ;  a  small  pot 
will  force  more  flowers  from  a  plant  than  a  large  one.  It 
frequently  occurs  in  pot  plants  that  roots  and  suckers  will 
rise  from  the  soil,  run  some  distance  and  root  again.  It 
must  not  be  infered  that  this  arises  from  the  plant  being  in 
too  small  a  pot ;  for  instance  the  Achimenes  and  Chrysan. 
themum.  The  general  supposition  is,  the  soil  being  dete- 
riorated the  roots  rise  to  seek  nourishment,  and  when  it  is- 
attained  will  strike  root  again.  We  have  an  every  day  oc 


MANURING   AND   POTTING.  27 

ctirrence  of  this  in  the  garden  rose,  which,  if  allowed  to  re- 
main in  one  place  many  years,  will  shove  their  suckers  some 
distance  5  the  original  tree  for  want  of  nourishment,  the  soil 
being  exhausted,  will  perish ;  and  so  it  will  be  found  with 
pot  plants  if  the  soil  be  not  changed  by  some  chemical  pro- 
cess, and  that  generally  is  effected  by  manure.  When  the 
soil  is  congenial  to  plants  the  nutricious  sap  accumulates, 
and  the  plant  grows  vigorously  so  long  as  there  remains  a 
sufficiency  of  food  in  the  soil ;  but  when  exhausted  we  find 
the  plant  using  its  functions  to  escape  from  its  deleterious 
soil  if  that  be  impossible,  and  if  not  repotted  the  conse- 
quence will  be  death,  for  the  leaves  cannot  imbibe  the  gas- 
es of  the  surrounding  atmosphere  when  the  roots  are  sickly, 
as  the  one  is  dependent  on  the  other. 


CUTTINGS,  &C. 

This  is  an  easy  way  of  propagating  the  different  varieties 
of  our  fine  and  most  beautiful  species  of  plants  that  decorate 
the  parlor.  There  are  different  methods  of  striking  cut- 
tings, and  different  seasons  that  are  more  congenial  for  that 
accomplishment  It  is  not  material  which  way  the  object 
be  obtained  so  long  as  the  ultimatum  be  gained.  Some 
propagators  will  adhere  to  the  system  they  have  found  suc- 
cessful. However,  as  my  object  is  to  instruct  the  young 
amateur,  I  will  not  discuss  this  or  that  system,  but  exhibit 
to  their  comprehension  as  simple  a  plan  as  possible,  although 
not  a  new  one.  It  will  be  found  in  experience  that  succu- 


28  A  GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

lent  plants  are  the  most  easy  to  strike  root ;  the  harder  the 
wood  the  more  difficult.  In  striking  cuttings  one  thing 
must  be  adhered  to,  as  much  depends  on  the  manner  of  pre- 
paring the  cuttings ;  for  unless  cut  close  to  the  joint  there 
is  not  much  dependence  to  be  placed  in  the  success  of  the 
undertaking,  for  the  bud  that  you  cut  close  to.  when  insert- 
ed in  the  soil,  attracts  fluid  which  it  feeds  on ;  this  elon- 
gates downward  and  becomes  roots,  for  it  is  necessary  by 
nature  it  should  be  so  before  the  plant  can  be  established; 
thus  making  a  perfect  plant,  the  same  as  the  parent  from 
which  the  cutting  was  taken.  As  the  roots  become  set,  the 
cutting  sends  forth  branches,  then  the  root  and  leaf  become 
mutually  dependent  upon  each  other  for  support  and  life. 
The  time  of  taking  cuttings  is  from  early  spring  till  fall  j  dif- 
ferent plants  require  their  proper  time  for  propagation  ;  for 
instance,  the  best  month  for  the  Rose  is  June,  when  the  young 
wood  is  sufficiently  ripe  5  herbaceous  plants  as  soon  as  done 
flowering,  though  for  some  it  will  be  necessary  to  take  their 
flower  stems  before  developing  the  flowers.  It  would  oc- 
cupy too  much  space  to  specify  the  proper  time  for  all  the 
varieties ;  but  each  treatise  of  this  work  will  exhibit  enough 
for  any  beginner  to  commence  with,  leaving  the  balance  to 
his  own  experience. 

The  best  way  to  strike  cuttings  of  hard  wooded  shrubs  is 
to  procure  a  box  or  pan  about  twelve  inches  across  and  the 
same  in  depth;  then  get  another  about  four  inches  without  a 
hole  in  the  bottom,  which  may  be  easily  obtained  of  a  potter ; 
placing  part  of  a  brick  in  the  larger  to  keep  the  smaller  one 
on  a  level  with  it  in  the  centre,  then  fill  the  vacancy  with 
fine  leaf  mould  and  sand  in  equal  parts,  well  incorporated ; 
this  done,  insert  the  cuttings  up  to  the  second  joint,  close  to 


CUTTINGS.  29 

the  small  pot ;  be  particular  that  the  bottom  of  the  cuttings 
comes  in  contact  with  the  sides,  for  cuttings  of  every  descrip- 
tion will  strike  root  more  readily  by  the  side  than  if  planted 
in  the  middle  of  the  soil.  When  your  cuttings  are  all  in, 
fill  the  small  pot  with  water,  which,  if  kept  full,  will  suffi- 
ciently feed  the  cuttings  without  watering  in  any  other  way, 
and  they  will  not  be  killed  by  too  much  moisture.  In  the 
usual  method  of  setting  cuttings  in  the  soil,  and  watering 
them,  they  are  very  apt  to  be  killed  by  over  moisture ;  but  to 
set  them  in  the  manner  recommended,  and  covering  them 
with  a  bell  glass,  which  should  be  taken  off  occasionally  for 
a  short  time,  too  great  a  degree  of  dampness  would  be  pre- 
vented, and  your  cuttings  would  generally  thrive.  It  is  re- 
quisite in  setting  cuttings  of  any  description  to  keep  them 
shaded  from  the  sun ;  and  in  the  fall  when  they  have 
taken  sufficient  root,  which  can  be  ascertained  by  lifting  the 
small  pot,  they  should  be  potted  off  into  two  inch  pots,  with 
a  rich  sandy  loam,  and  remain  in  them  until  the  following 
spring. 

Succulent  plants  being  easier  raised  by  cuttings,  may  bo 
set  in  the  following  way : — get  a  pot  or  box  like  the  one 
above  recommended,  and  fill  it  with  a  composition  of  leaf 
mould  and  sand,  then  gently  water  it;  take  a  bell  glass  and 
mark  its  size  by  pressing  it  on  the  soil,  then  set  the  cuttings 
up  to  the  middle  joint,  having  previously  prepared  them  tho 
same  as  recommended  for  hard  wooded  cuttings,  then  gently 
water  the  whole  to  settle  the  soil  round  them ;  when  the 
leaves  are  dry  put  on  the  glass.  Whenever  you  water  cut- 
tings, be  sure  and  never  cover  them  while  the  leaves  are 
wet  if  you  wish  to  succeed.  When  you  find  cuttings  be- 
gin to  grow,  then  begin  to  admit  air  to  harden  them.  In 


30  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

striking  cuttings  that  arc  more  difficult  than  others,  resource 
should  be  had  to  the  bark  bed.  Experience  will  teach 
more  on  that  subject  than  I  could  explain  in  any  treatise  - 

Budding. — The  difference  between  budding  and  striking 
by  cuttings  in  one  respect  amounts  to  one  thing  the  increase 
of  desirable  plants ;  the  one  conveys  the  roots  to  the  ground, 
while  the  other  is  essentially  employed  in  engrafting  itself 
by  uniting  to  the  stem  of  another,  and  all  action  of  atmos- 
pheric air  must  be  excluded  to  ensure  success  j  to  accom- 
plish this,  it  will  be  necessary  to  examine  the  bark  when  it 
parts  freely,  which  is  about  July  or  August,  which  is  the 
time  to  perform  the  operation. 

The  best  stock  to  bud  the  Rose  on  is  the  Boursalt ;  when 
ready  to  perform  the  operation,  cut  the  bark  across  and 
down  in  the  shape  of  T,  with  a  budding  knife,  then  lay  it 
open  from  the  cross  down,  separating  the  bark  from  the 
wood  with  as  much  ease  as  possible  ;  then  take  the  bud  in- 
tended to  be  inserted  which  must  be  cut  about  a  quarter  of 
an  inch  above  and  beiow  the  axle  of  the  leaf  through  a  por- 
tion of  the  wood,  which  must  be  separated  from  the  bark, 
and  inserted  in  the  part  separated,  commencing  at  the  cross 
and  slipped  down  as  far  as  possible,  between  the  bark,  with- 
out injuring  the  leaf  bud,  then  take  a  piece  of  bass  matting 
about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  wide,  previously  dipped  into  wa- 
ter to  strengthen  it,  and  bind  the  wound  close,  leaving  the 
eye  only  exposed,  and  in  six  weeks,  if  the  bud  has  taken, 
slacken  the  bandage  a  little  and  cut  the  stalk  off  within  two 
eyes  of  the  bud ;  by  this  means  the  inserted  bud  will  receive 
enough  sap  to  keep  it  in  a  living  condition  until  spring. 
When  the  bwd  begins  to  push,  cut  off  the  balance  above 


CUTTINGS.  31 

the  bud.  Budding  is  preferable  to  grafting  for  the  Rose, 
and  is  much  practised  by  Florists,  as  every  eye  will  make 
a  tree;  by  this  process  the  most  scarce  species  of  the  Rose 
may  be  propagated  faster  than  by  any  other  method,  and 
sent  to  all  parts  of  the  world.  It  will  also  be  found  by  ex- 
perience that  some  varieties  of  the  Rose  succeed  better  by 
being  budded  on  another  stock  than  on  its  own ;  we  have 
an  instance  of  this  in  the  white  Bath  Moss  and.  the  yellow 
Persian  Rose. 


WATERING  OF  PLANTS. 

Watering  of  plants  is  one  of  the  most  essential  operations 
to  be  performed,  and  easily  done ;  but  being  done  correctly 
is  quite  another  thing,  for  to  water  plants  correctly  is  one  of 
the  principal  means  of  invigorating  them,  and  lies  at  the 
foundation  of  their  health.  From  the  manner  some  plants 
are  watered  it  is  a  wonder  they  are  kept  alive ;  they  can 
exhibit  from  one  year's  end  to  another  but  a  very  meagro 
appearance.  Pot  plants  (plants  cultivated  in  pots)  should 
never  be  kept  in  a  saucer  unless  the  object  be  to  keep  the 
surplus  water  from  the  carpet  or  the  floor ;  but  it  frequently 
occurs  that  when  kept  in  saucers  they  are  watered  by  that 
means ;  such  a  plan  should  not  be  adopted  unless  the  plant 
be  a  swamp  plant,  like  the  Hydrangea  Calla  sethiopica,  &c. ; 
though  there  are  times  when  some  plants  will  admit  of  such 
a  course  it  will  require  experience  for  its  successful  practice. 
j  In  watering  plants  we  should,  imitate  nature  as  closely 


32  A  GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

as  possible.  In  the  first  place  we  should  never  use  cold 
water,  as  it  is  injurious.  After  a  warm  shower  we  can 
plainly  perceive  the  vigor  imparted  to  plants,  a  circum- 
stance not  noticeable  after  a  cold  rain.  In  the  summer  wa 
ter  should  be  allowed  to  stand  all  day  in  a  tub,  and  warmed 
by  the  sun.  It  must  not  be  supposed  that  because  a  hu- 
man being  feels  refreshed  in  summer  by  the  use  of  cold 
water,  that  plants  derive  the  same  benefit  from  the  use  of 
cold  well  or  cistern  water,  for  a  human  being  has  means  of 
exercise,  therefore  does  not  feel  any  ill  effects ;  but  plants 
are  not  endowed  with  such  faculties,  and  therefore  suffer 
from  the  use  of  water  in  a  cold  state.  Therefore  water 
given  to  plants  in  summer  should  be  as  warm  as  the  soil 
and  atmosphere,  or  rather  warmer  than  otherwise.  Rain, 
when  falling  in  the  summer,  if  cool,  changes  the  air  and 
soil  to  a  corresponding  temperature ;  this  is  natural.  In  the 
winter  such  plants  as  stand  in  need  of  water  should  have  it 
applied  sparingly,  and  the  chill  should  be  taken  off  previous 
to  using  it.  In  the  next  place  it  should  be  observed  that 
'>ur  Maker  has  sent  refreshing  showers  for  the  benefit  of 
plants  as  well  as  ourselves,  therefore  we  ought  to  imitate 
him  in  watering  plants,  by  applying  it  at  the  top  of  the  pot, 
and  never  at  the  saucer ;  for  if  he  deemed  it  best,  he  in  his 
infinite  wisdom,  would  have  provided  it  at  the  bottom  of 
the  roots,  to  ascend  instead  of  descending. 

In  watering  plants  in  pots  we  have  to  be  more  profuse 
than  rain,  for  plants  in  the  ground  receive  some  moisture 
at  the  roots,  and  consequently  do  not  need  so  much  as  if  in 
the  pot.  To  supply  this  deficiency  we  have  to  resort  to 
artificial  means,  or  they  would  perish  by  being  circum- 
scribed within  so  small  a  compass,  without  means  of  ob- 


WATERING    OF   PLANTS..  33 

taining  and  retaining  of  moisture  to  support  them  through 
the  warm  summer.  How  much  water  plants  in  pots  will 
require  depends  on  the  weather,  season,  and  nature  of  the 
plants.  In  the  summer  every  day ;  spring  and  fall  not  so 
often ;  December  and  January  little  or  none ;  for  at  that 
season  plants,  generally  speaking,  are  not  in  a  growing 
state.  If  the  room  where  the  plants  are  kept  be  dry  and 
warm,  a  little  may  be  used  to  advantage ;  still  it  should  be 
remembered  that  plants  may  be  gorged  at  all  seasons ;  this 
may  be  avoided  in  some  measure  by  giving  the  plants  a 
good  drainage  when  potted.  It  is  the  nature  of  some  plants 
to  require  more  water  than  others ;  this  will  be  easily  dis- 
covered, when  plants  are  in  a  growing  state,  by  the  soil  at 
the  top  of  the  pot  drying  up  faster  than  others. 

The  Camellia  Japonica  in  the  winter  require  much  water 
to  make  their  flower  buds  swell  and  expand  ;  it  must  not 
be  supposed  because  that  plant  requires  a  plentiful  sup- 
ply, that  others  want  as  much.  The  Cacti  family,  if  wa- 
tered much  in  the  winter,  will  soon  perish  ;  but  in  its  grow- 
ing season  must  have  its  due  portion.  Plants  when  in  full 
growth  should  never  be  watered  close  to  the  stem  or  collar . 
the  object  is  to  have  the  water  first  reach  the  roots  that  ex- 
tend to  the  sides  of  the  pot.  Many  tender  exotic  plants 
have  been  killed  by  frequently  watering  the  collar  of  the 
plant,  as  the  watering  from  a  water  pot  is  not  so  gentle  as 
rain;  therefore  more  likely  to  be  injurious. 

Liquid  manure  is  sometimes  used  in  watering  plants,  but 
is  dangerous  to  most  varieties,  unless  used  by  a  skillful  gar- 
dener ;  it  should  never  be  used  by  the  amateur.  In  early 
spring  and  fall,  as  also  the  winter,  the  morning  is  the  best 
time  to  water  plants,  but  in  summer  the  evening.  To  wa- 


34  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

ter  plants  and  their  leaves;when  the  sun's  rays  are  upon 
them,  is  injurious  (the  Chrysanthemum  being  an  excep- 
tion) ;  it  may  be  said  that  the  sun  shines  and  it  rains  at  the 
same  time ;  that  is  true,  but  when  that  is  the  case  the  at- 
mosphere is  changed  at  the  same  time,  and  thus  nature 
counteracts  its  ill  effects  •  but  with  the  water  pot  a  corres- 
ponding change  in  the  atmosphere  cannot  be  effected,  con- 
sequently your  plants  will  blister,  and  be  spotted,  which 
proves  that  watering  in  the  evening  is  most  congenial,  and 
the  spongioles  of  the  roots  are  better  prepared  to  receive  the 
nourishment. 

Another  custom  to  be  condemned  in  persons  having  plants 
is,  their  frequently  putting  them  out  in  the  rain  during  the 
winter  months;  this  should  never  be  done  for 'the  reason 
that  cold  rain  not  being  beneficial  the  water  becomes  stag- 
nant,sour  and  rots  the  roots,  for  unless  the  plants  be  growing 
it  is  impossible  for  them  to  imbibe  the  moisture,  let  the  sea- 
son be  wrhat  it  may,  the  plants  are  unable  to  discharge  the 
surplus  at  the  leaves,  the  plant  becomes  sickly  and  dies,  and 
people  are  unable  to  account  for  the  cause,  not  supposing 
their  own  anxiety  and  kindness  had  destroyed  them.  More 
plants  are  killed  by  over  watering  than  for  the  want  of  it, 
therefore  due  caution  should  be  exercised  by  all  beginners 
in  the  use  of  that  element. 


GENERAL  TREATMENT  OF  PLANTS.          35 


GENERAL  TREATMENT  OF  PLANTS. 

To  give  a  concise  direction  for  the  management  of  all 
plants  in  general  cultivation  would  be  extending  this  arti- 
cle beyond  proper  limits,  and  be  too  prolix  in  the  detail  to 
make  it  interesting.  I  shall  therefore  confine  myself  to  but 
few  plants  which  will  apply  more  or  less  to  others. 

In  the  spring  plants  can  never  be  placed  out  of  doors 
with  safety  before  May ;  even  then  we  are  sometimes  visit- 
ed by  frost  which  may  do  incalculable  injury ;  it  is  better 
to  err  on  the  safe  side  than  lose  valuable  plants.  If  not 
placed  out  of  doors  before  that  time,  the  plants  should  have 
the  benefit  of  fresh  air  on  all  favorable  occasions.  The 
Rose  is  probably  one  of  the  most  hardy  pot  plants  in  culti- 
vation, will  bear  considerable  frost,  and  may,  to  save  trou- 
ble, be  planted  in  the  open  ground  in  March  and  sustain  no 
injury,  and  be  potted  off  in  October  and  brought  into  the 
house.  But  that  management  never  would  suit  the  Gera- 
nium, which  should  never  be  placed  out  before  May.  The 
fine  varieties  are  hybrids  and  very  tender  in  their  nature  as 
well  as  delicate,  and  will  not  bear  the  least  frost.  Those 
that  have  duplicate  plants  would  do  as  well  to  plant  one  in 
the  ground ;  by  that  treatment  they  will  frequently  flower 
again  in  the  fall,  and  may  then  be  cut  down,  potted,  and 
brought  into  the  house  about  the  fifteenth  of  September. 
In  placing  this  plant  (Geranium)  out  of  doors  it  will  be  ne- 
cessary to  water  the  ground  at  times  with  lime  water,  to 
kill  the  worms,  or  they  will  find  their  way  into  the  pots 
and  do  considerable  injury  to  the  plants.  The  pit  is  not  a 


36  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

good  place  in  which  to  winter  the  hybrid  variety  of  this 
beautiful  tribe  of  flowers,  as  those  plants  like  a  dry  room  or 
green-house  rather  than  a  damp  place. 

The  heat  of  the  room  is  the  best  criterion  by  which  to 
judge  when  plants  should  be  watered.  Plants  should  be 
kept  clean  by  destroying  the  green  fly,  and  free  of  dead 
leaves.  In  summer  no  plant  should  be  allowed  to  suffer  for 
want  of  water.  There  are  some  succulent  plants  that  should 
never  be  placed  to  receive  the  heavy  rains  in  the  summer, 
the  Cacti  tribe  for  instance ;  but  plants  of  this  description 
are  but  few.  The  Camellia  does  not  like  excess  of  heat,  and 
when  placed  out  of  doors  in  May.  should  be  in  the  shade 
only ;  as  the  leaves  are  likely  to  be  infested  with  the  red 
spider  they  should  be  syringed  with  clean  water  every  even- 
ing through  the  summer,  and  when  the  flower  buds  are 
forming  must  be  watered  regularly :  for  if  the  roots  are  al- 
lowed to  become  dry  it  will  cause  their  buds  to  drop  off  on 
the  application  of  water,  or  being  watered  too  freely  at  any 
time  will  produce  the  same  injury.  This  evil  may  in  some 
measure  be  avoided  in  potting  plants  by  a  good  drainage. 
Then  again  their  buds  will  droop  by  a  change  of  the  at- 
mosphere when  removed  from  summer  to  winter  quarters ; 
fresh  air  should  never  be  denied  them  when  removed  into 
a  room.  This  is  applicable  to  all  plants,  for  all  should  be 
inured  to  their  winter  confinement  by  degrees,  or  they  can- 
not sustain  life  without.  When  the  Camellia  is  kept  too 
warm  it  causes  their  buds  to  fall,  and  also  their  growth  is 
forced  beyond  their  power  of  retaining  them.  Extremes  of 
any  kind  are  prejudicial  to  plants. 

I  have  pointed  out  the  difficulties  attending  those  which 
require  most  care ;  for  all  other  plants  a  medium  line  must 


GENERAL  TREATMENT  OF  PLANTS.          37 

be  drawn,  where  not  more  fully  explained  in  other  parts  of 
this  work.  To  destroy  insects,  such  as  the  red  spider, 
green  fly,  &c.,  that  infest  pot  plants,  I  have  always  found 
whale  oil  soap  the  most  effectual,  to  be  mixed  in  the  pro- 
portion of  fifteen  gallons  of  water  to  two  pounds  of  soap ; 
not  stronger,  unless  to  destroy  caterpillars.  The  soap  and 
water  should  be  mixed  twenty-four  hours  before  used ;  may 
be  syringed  or  used  with  the  water  pot ;  the  former  is  de- 
cidedly the  best,  as  it  throws  the  suds  with  force,  and  will 
penetrate  where  it  could  not  be  conveyed  with  the  water 
pot. 

The  practice  of  wintering  plants  in  a  bed-room  is  one 
that  ought  never  to  be  adopted,  and  no  doubt  is,  without 
due  reflection ;  but  when  we  consider  that  it  subverts  oce  of 
the  greatest  blessings  our  Maker  has  bestowed  on  us,  health, 
we  ought  to  pause ;  for  the  gases  emitted  by  plants  lay  the 
foundation  for  many  diseases  that  are  not  easily  eradicated 
from  the  human  system. 


HYBRIDIZING 

**  Seek  for  beauty,  if  thou  wilt, 
But  mark  the  quality." 

This  system  has  become  so  well  understood  that  nature 
appears  subjected  to  the  will  of  the  florist.  There  is  certain- 
ly something  in  the  ambition  of  man  that  leads  him  beyond 
the  apparent  bounds  of  nature  in  his  endeavors  to  change 


38  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

and  improve  what  our  Maker  has  kindly  bestowed  upon  us. 
Reason  and  avarice  no  doubt  hava  some  influence  on  this 
principle  in  subverting  those  gifts.  A  question  arises  when 
presumptive  man,  in  taking  on  himself  liberties  of  such  a 
nature,  is  he  acting  consistent  with  the  attributes  of  his  Ma- 
ker or  not.  When  we  view  the  vast  fields  of  flowers  that 
gild  this  world,  and  man  is  found  diving  into  the  researches 
of  nature,  we  feel  a  palliative  excuse  for  him  in  assuming 
liberties  in  endeavoring  to  improve  those  gems  that  embel- 
lish the  floral  world.  The  Bees  no  doubt  suggest  to  the  flo- 
rist the  first  idea  of  hybridizing,  and  as  those  insects  can  be 
seen  carrying  the  pollen  on  their  soft  down  that  covers  them 
from  one  flower  to  another,  by  this  means  changing  the  pu» 
rity  of  one  with  that  of  another,  thus  converting  the  order 
of  nature  by  hybridizing,  and  on  a  similar  principle  is  the 
Dollen  removed  from  one  plant  to  another  with  a  camel's 
hair  pencil,  thus  showing  what  the  insect  effects  by  acci- 
dent the  florist  effects  on  the  same  principle  with  the  pencil 
as  a  system.  There  are  many  plants  on  the  Prairies  and 
other  places  that  cross  naturally  without  those  agencies,  but 
crosses  of  that  kind  are  confined  more  to  plants  of  a  like 
nature,  beyond  this  there  is  a  barrier  which  cannot  be  over- 
stepped. The  China  Pink  planted  by  the  side  of  the  Sweet 
William  will  cross  without  artificial  fecundation. 

The  florist  in  some  measure  is  prescribed  in  his  limits, 
for  he  may  cross  the  Peach  and  Plum,  but  he  cannot  con- 
vey the  pollen  of  either  to  the  Apple  with  effect,  the  consti- 
tution of  the  one  will  not  admit  anything  of  the  kind  on  the 
other.  The  greatest  perfection  of  the  florist's  skill  can  be 
exercised  with  the  China  Rose,  the  pollen  of  which  will 
fertilize  with  that  of  any  other  rose,  hence  we  are  indebted  for 


HYBRIDIZING.  39 

such  splendid  varieties.  Again,  see  to  what  perfection  the 
Cineraria  has  been  brought,  also  the  Verbena  Gladiolus 
and  Geranium,  and  many  other  beautiful  flowering  plants. 
These  improvements  have  created  much  excitement  in  the 
minds  of  the  florist,  which  makes  it  difficult  to  tell  when 
the  limit  of  his  desire  for  hybridizing  will  be  checked. 

There  are  many  hybrid  plants  brought  into  existence 
that  will  not  seed,  consequently  must  be  increased  by  cut- 
tings or  divisions  of  the  roots,  and  many  that  do  seed  car- 
ry a  tendency  towards  the  parent  plant  that  in  time  will 
return  altogether  and  be  lost  as  a  hybrid.  The  settled  con- 
stitution of  such  plants  is  not  to  be  relied  on.  for  it  posses- 
ses a  weakness,  and  as  its  flowers  tend  to  the  original  pa- 
rent its  strength  increases,  so  that  hybrids  that  cross  naturally 
are  of  shdrt  duration.  This  may  appear  strange,  but  so  it 
is.  If  we  take  the  pollen  of  one  flower  and  fertilize  another 
of  a  different  quality,  the  produce  arising  from  such  an  ex- 
periment would  probably  bear  no  resemblance  to  any  raised 
before,  this  would  be  devoid  of  seed  to  perpetuate  its  kind 
the  following  season. 

It  is  the  practice  of  a  florist  when  he  intends  to  cross  a 
flower,  to  cut  the  anthers  out  of  the  blossom  early  in  the 
morning  when  the  pollen  is  moist  and  does  not  so  readily 
escape,  which  insures  more  effectually  the  performance. 
Therefore  it  is  necessary  for  those  who  wish  to  succeed  in 
hybridizing,  to  commence  early  in  the  morning.  When 
a  plant  does  not  seed  well  there  would  be  much  time  lost 
in  the  attempt,  for  instance  the  Carnation,  Chrysanthemum, 
and  many  other  perennials  that  seldom  seed  in  this  country. 

When  experiments  by  crossing  are  to  be  performed,  the 
pollen  should  be  taken  from  the  plant  early  in  the  morning 


40  A   GUIDE   TO    FLORICULTURE. 

with  a  camel's  hair  pencil,  and  placed  on  the  pistil  of  the 
other,  having  previously  extracted  the  anthers,  and  if  effected 
the  petals  will  fade  and  drop  off  sooner  than  otherwise,  but 
if  the  experiment  is  a  failure  the  petals  are  longer  falling, 
and  seldom  fall  clear,  showing  the  difference  in  the  two 
flowers.  Sometimes  the  Carnation  will  seed  if  the  season 
be  propitious,  and  if  crossed  the  petals  will  fade  before 
night  —  otherwise  will  take  ten  or  twelve  days  before  they 
fall,  thus  giving  a  fair  chance  for  the  operator  to  renew  his 
experiments  the  following  day.  When  the  Carnation  seeds 
without  crossing,  the  seedlings  will  produce  flowers  of  the 
original  stock  a  flesh  color. 

Experiments  have  been  tried  on  Lilies  when  the  hybrid 
resembled  the  mother  plant  in  the  leaf  and  stem,  and  the 
flowers  of  the  father,  so  it  is  with  mule  Pinks.  Many  per- 
sons are  of  opinion  that  soil  will  affect  the  color  in  plants ; 
not  so,  in  some  measure  the  brilliancy  of  colors  may  be  af- 
fected. It  is  a  well  known  fact  that  Carnation  growers  in 
England,  when  going  to  exhibit  their  flowers  for  premiums 
will  make  the  soil  rich,  with  a  view  to  produce  fine  colors, 
which  often  makes  them  run,  that  is,  instead  of  having  a 
rich  stripe  become  selfs  and  worthless  ;  so  it  is  with  Tulips 
and  many  other  florist  flowers. 

In  hybridizing  there  is  something  interesting  in  the  sys- 
tem, still  it  is  all  chance  work,  mere  speculation ;  but  the 
mind  of  man  is  ever  prone  to  projects,  and  will  be  while  he 
finds  a  solace  in  anticipation  of  any  nature.  The  hybrid- 
izing of  Roses  is  certainly  brought  to  the  ne  plus  ultra  of 
perfection  with  most  of  that  beautiful  variety  of  flowers. 


AMERICAN   COWSLIP.  41 

There  can  be  much  effected  with  other  plants,  therefore 
the  zealous  will  find  his  industry  rewarded  according  to  the 
assiduity  he  bestows  on  the  system. 


AMERICAN  COWSLIP 

(DEDOCATHEON  MEDIA.) 

"  They  shall  own  thee  the  sweetest  and  fairest  of  flowers, 
That  smile  in  the  woodlands,  or  blush  in  our  bowers ' 
They  shall  own  thee  a  lovelier  gem  of  delight 
Than  they  that  illumine  the  veil  of  midnight !  " 

This  very  interesting  and  delightful  hardy  perennial  flow- 
ering plant  is  a  native  of  this  country.  The  leaves  are  ob- 
long, elliptic,  in  a  cluster  nearly  flat  on  the  ground,  of  a 
light  green  color,  throwing  tip  a  scape  at  the  top  of  which 
is  an  umbel  of  drooping  flowers,  of  a  light  purple,  with  the 
segment  reflexed  from  near  the  base,  beautifully  variegated, 
making  it  one  of  the  most  agreeable  border  flowers  that 
could  be  selected,  flowering  in  May.  This  was  named 
"  Dedocatheon  "  (by  Linnseus),  or  the  twelve  divines ;  it  is 
generally  supposed  he  selected  that  name  from  the  number 
of  flowers  on  the  scape ;  if  such  was  the  case  we  need  not 
wonder  at  the  abortiveness  of  the  name,  as  the  umbels  will 
put  forth  sometimes  as  many  as  twenty  flowers.  The  plant 
was  first  discovered  by  Micheauz,  aFrench  botanist,  but  the 
late  Mr.  Drummond  was  the  first  to  collect  the  seeds  during 
his  researches  on  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  transmitted 
them  to  the  Edinburgh  Botanic  Garden,  where  the  merit 
4 


42  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

of  this  (our)  native  flower  is  properly  appreciated.  The 
American  Cowslip  is  quite  common  in  the  western  country, 
more  especially  on  the  prairies,  where  its  splendor  is 
most  enchanting. 

To  cultivate  this  beautiful  plant  the  roots  should  be  di- 
vided after  their  flowering-  and  the  leaves  die  down ;  if  di- 
vided in  the  spring,  a  plan  frequently  done,  will  often  pre- 
vent them  flowering  that  season.  The  seed  should  be  sown 
as  soon  as  ripe,  or  may  be  kept  until  spring ;  a  shady  place 
and  moist  soil  being  most  desirable,  it  must  be  a  rich  loam. 
Seedlings  should  not  be  transplanted  until  the  second  sea- 
son, and  will  flower  the  third. 


AMARANTHUS. 

"  With  solemn  adoration  down  the  East, 
Their  crowns,  inwove  with  amaranth  and  gold, 
Immortal  amaranth,  a  flower  which  once 
In  Paradise,  first  by  the  tree  of  life 
Began  to  bloom." 

This  is  a  very  numerous  family  of  ornamental  flowering 
plants,  which  gives  to  the  flower  garden  a  lively  appear- 
ance from  the  month  of  July  to  September.  The  racemes 
of  these  annuals  are  superb,  some  more  so  than  others.  A. 
melancholicus  grows  about  four  feet  high,  flowering  all  the 
summer ;  this  plant  is  better  calculated  for  a  large  garden, 
consequently  not  much  cultivated  in  this  country  as  in  some 
parts  of  Europe,  The  color  is  a  rich  crimson  purple.  This 


AMARANTHUS.  43 

plant,  like  A.  tricolor,  is  not  well  adapted  for  a  bouqeut ,  its 
chief  culture  being  intended  for  their  ornamental  appear- 
ance and  their  singularity ;  the  latter  is  very  showy  in  a 
large  garden,  the  gorgeous  appearance  of  the  leaves  are  ve- 
ry strikingly  showy  to  the  eye.  The  leaves  of  this  plant 
being  variegated  is  the  origin  of  its  name  tricolor,  and  when 
in  perfection  and  the  sun  shining  on  them,  are  extremely 
dazzling.  Round  the  stem  are  tufts  adhering  containing 
the  seed.  These  and  most  of  the  species  are  natives  of  the 
Indies.  To  grow  them  well  the  soil  should  be  light  and 
rich ;  if  raised  in  the  hot-bed  great  care  should  be  taken  to 
protect  them  from  early  frost,  as  all  those  varieties  are  ten- 
der. A.  globosi  is  another  beautiful  variety,  extremely  or- 
namental and  more  cultivated  than  the  above  named  varie- 
ty, and  is  well  known  as  the  "Bachelor's  Buttons"  If 
these  flowers  are  gathered  before  ripe,  or  the  frost  nips  them, 
Ihey  retain  their  primitive  color  all  the  winter.  Of  the 
Globe  we  have  two  varieties,  white  and  purple,  the  latter 
more  showy.  There  arc  others,  also,  considered  ornamen- 
tal, but  it  would  be  useless  to  go  into  particulars  of  their  de- 
scription as  the  family  are  numerous ;  they  generally  flower 
until  killed  by  the  frost.  The  Amaranthus  is  one  of  the 
oldest  flowers  in  cultivation,  as  we  find  them  in  much  es- 
teem by  the  ancients.  The  Thessalians  decorated  their 
heads  with  crowns  made  of  the  Amaranthus  at  the  obse- 
quies of  Achilles.  Milton  has  been  lavishing  in  praise  of 
their  beauty  in  his  description  of  heaven.  Pope,  and  many 
other  poets  also  sung  in  praise  of  the  richness  appertaining 
to  their  beauty. 


44  A  GUIDE   TO  FLORICULTURE, 

iRGEMONE. 

(PAPA VERBENA,  OR  PRICKLY  POPPY.) 

This  is  a  hardy  annual,  and  the  variety  consists  of  not 
more  than  six,  whose  diversity  of  colors  are  not  very  exten- 
sive, being  principally  white  and  yellow,  of  eiect  habit  and 
branching,  leaves  resembling  the  thistle.  The  Argemone 
is  a  nativf  of  Mexico,  flowering  from  July  to  August,  pre- 
fers a  sandy  loam  \  the  stem  is  about  two  feet,  not  very  pre- 
possessing in  appearance,  therefore  not  much  cultivated  in 
this  country , 


ASTERS. 

"  Thou  art  like  some  lone  brilliant  star, 

Some  planetary  light, 
That  glitters,  radiant  and  afar, 
Within  the  depth  of  night." 

This  is  a  very  mimeious  family  of  late  flowering  peren- 
nials, all  deserving  a  place  in  the  back  ground  of  the  bor- 
ders. The  Aster  best  known  here  is  a  native  of  this  coun- 
try, called  the  " Missouri  Aster"  of  an  azure  blue,  rather 
late  in  flowering,  but  it  puts  forth  its  lively  flowers  at  a  sea- 
son that  makes  them  truly  welcome,  cheering  up  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  garden  at  a  season  when  all  other  flowers 


ASTERS.  45 

are  on  the  wane,  making  them  highly  deserving  our  favor. 
The  stem  of  this  Aster  grows  from  five  to  six  feet  high,  the 
leaves  linear,  lanceolate,  entire,  fleshy,  smooth,  and  slightly 
ribbed.  The  flowers  corymbose,  scales  of  the  involucrum 
obtuse,  slightly  membranous.  This  Aster  and  others  are 
easily  propagated  by  dividing  the  roots  in  the  spring  or  fall, 
or  by  sowing  the  seeds  in  the  spring,  and  will  flower  the 
first  year.  The  Asters  are  cultivated  extensively  in  Eu- 
rope. Mr.  T.  Rivers  has  been  quite  industrious  in  crossing 
them,  and  with  considerable  success.  In  his  catalogue 
there  are  seventeen  distinct  varieties  flowering  from  Septem- 
ber to  December,  which  must  appear  beautiful  at  that  sea- 
son. The  soil  for  the  culture  of  the  Asters  should  be  a  rich 
loam. 


AGAPANTHUS. 

(UMBELLATUS.) 

This  superb  and  magnificent  Lily  is  a  native  of  Africa, 
and  is  treated  as  a  green-house  plant,  does  equally  well  in 
a  pit  or  room ;  was  introduced  in  1692.  The  leaves  aro 
slightly  channelled,  long,  entire,  something  like  the  Leek  cf 
the  vegetable  garden  ;  is  evergreen,  throwing  up  a  stem 
about  three  feet  high,  with  an  umbel  of  beautiful  azure 
blue  flowers ;  the  head  is  not  unlike  the  seed-pod  of  the 
onion,  exhibiting  about  one  hundred  flowers,  each  standing 
on  a  pedicle  about  one  inch  long.  As  the  flowers  do  not 
expand  all  at  one  time,  gives  the  plant  a  very  imposing  ap- 


46  A  GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

pearance  for  about  six  weeks.  There  is  another  variety 
with  a  striped  leaf,  not  so  robust  in  habit,  flowers  alike,  but 
not  in  such  profusion ;  also  one  bearing  white  flowers,  not 
very  attractive.  The  roots  of  this  Lily  are  not,  strictly 
speaking,  bulbous  or  fibrous,  but  inclining  in  formation  to 
the  Leek.  This  plant  is  tender,  and  from  the  month  of 
November  to  February  requires  but  little  water,  when  in  a 
growing  state  a  plentiful  supply. 

The  soil  should  be  a  sandy  loam  with  a  small  portion  of 
cow  manure.  The  best  time  to  divide  the  roots  is  in  Octo- 
ber.  From  the  nature  and  growth  of  this  plant  it  will  re- 
quire some  labor  in  dividing  them,  in  doing  which,  if  one 
half  of  the.  roots  are  cut  out  the  plant  will  not  be  injured 
by  the  operation.  The  shifting  of  this  plant  is  often  resorted 
to  which  is  not  required,  once  a  year  being  often  enough, 
and  will  flower  the  sooner  by  being  disturbed  less  than  gen- 
erally practised. 


AGEBATHUM. 

(MEXICANUM.) 

Of  this  variety  of  half  hardy  annuals  there  are  but  two, 
Odor  alum  and  Mexicanum,  the  stem  generally  erect,  the 
flowers  terminal,  irregularly  branched,  corymb  of  a  delicate 
blue.  The  seeds  should  be  sown  in  March  and  will  flower 
from  June  to  September.  Both  are  natives  of  Mexico,  and 


AGERATHUM.  47 

will  grow  in  any  common  garden  soil.  The  fragrant  vari- 
ety is  the  most  esteemed  for  cultivation  as  an  ornamental 
iiower. 


ANEMONE. 

(ANEMONE  CORONARIA.) 

"Not  a  tree, 

A  plant,  a  leaf,  a  blossom,  but  contains 
A  folio  volume.     We  may  read  and  read, 
And  read  again,  and  still  find  something  new, 
Something  to  learn,  and  something  to  digest, 
E'en  in  the  humble  weed." 

The  Anemone  is  a  species  of  wind-flower,  and  is  consid- 
ered a  florist  flower,  was  imported  into  Europe  1596,  about 
the  same  time  as  the  Ranunculus  was.  A  Coronaria  is 
the  poppy  or  garland  flower,  is  a  native  of  the  Levant,  but 
A.  Hortensis  is  a  native  of  the  most  elevated  parts  of  the 
countries  in  Siberia,  Switzerland,  Germany,  and  the  most 
northern  parts  of  the  continent,  and  more  hardy  than  the 
Ranunculus.  The  leaves  of  the  Anemone  are  terminate, 
segments  multified  and  linear,  muricated  lobes,  stem  about 
nine  inches  branching,  flowers  terminal  and  various,  flower- 
ing in  May  and  June.  The  management  of  one  is  applica- 
ble to  the  other ;  the  single  and  some  semi-double  are  held 
in  as  high  repute  as  the  double,  but  the  colors  must  be  bril- 
liant and  distinct.  The  roots  resemble  in  some  respects  the 
roots  of  ginger,  and  the  flowers  have  a  family  resemblance 


48  A   GtJlDE   TO   FLOIUCITLTUKE, 

to  the  Clematis,  and  the  brilliancy  of  their  colors  make 
them  indispensA  ble  in  all  well  regulated  flower  gardens. 
The  following  criterion  for  a  fine  Anemone  19  taken  from: 
London's  Encyclopaedia,  page  1029. 

"  The  stem  should  be  strong,  elastic,  and  erect,  not  less 
than  nine  inches  high.  'The  blossom  or  corolla  should  be 
at  least  two  inches  and  a  half  in  diameter,  consisting  of  an 
exterior  row  of  Ia?'ge,  substantial,  well  rounded  petals,  or 
guard  leaves,  at  first  horizontally  extending,  and  then  turn- 
ing a  little  tfpwardis-,  so  as  to  form  a  bfcad  shallow  cup,  the 
interior  part  of  which  should  contain  a  great  number  of 
long  and  small  petals  imbricating  each  other,  and  rather  re- 
verting from  the  centre  of  the  blossom ;  there  are  a  great 
number  of  small  sletfdet  stamens  mteimixed  with  the  pe* 
tals,  but  thes?e  are  short  and  not  easily  discernible.  Tho 
colors  should  be  clear  and  distinct  when  diversified  in  the 
same  flower,  of  brilliant  and  striking  if  it  consist  only  of 
one  color,  as  Hue,  crimson,  or  scarlet,  &c.}  in  which  case 
ihe  bottom  of  the  broad  exterior  petals  are  generally  white  \ 
but  the  beauty  and  contrast  is  considerably  increased  when 
both  the  exterior  and  interior  petals  are  regularly  marked 
with  alternate  blue  and  white,  or  pink  and  white,  &c., 
stripes,  which  ifl  the  broad  petals  should  not  extend  quite  to 
the  margin.' 

The  soil  most  suitable  is  rather  light  and  sandy  loam, 
still  this  plant  is  by  no  means  tenacious.  The  best  time  to 
plant  them  is  October,  and  will  bloom  in  April  and  May, 
and  if  shaded  will  retain  their  brilliancy  for  a  long  time, 
and  if  planted  in  November  will  flower  in  May  and  June, 
The  Anemone  can  be  brought  to  bloom  in  any  month 
of  the  year,  but  those  planted  late  and  protected  with 


ANEMONE.  49 

a  layer  of  manure  are  decidedly  the  best  flowers,  and  those 
planted  at  any  other  season  will  degenerate.  The  roots  of 
the  Anemone  are  generally  sold  by  the  ounce,  but  can  be 
purchased  by  the  hundred  if  selected  by  name,  which  in 
general  is  the  dearest  way.  One  hundred  can  be  purchased 
at  about  five  dollars  up  to  fifty.  The  reason  assigned  for 
selling  by  the  ounce  is  that  well  grown  roots  are  larger,  and 
the  purchasers  can  divide  the  roots  to  suit  their  fancy,  for 
every  piece  will  generally  flower  the  first  season  with  the 
same  facility  as  the  larger  roots. 

The  Anemone  continues  growing  after  the  blooming 
season  is  overmuch  longer  than  the  Ranunculus,  being" 
more  succulent,  and  should  be  taken  up  just  before  the 
leaves  die  down,  for  if  permitted  to  remain  much  longer 
will  begin  to  grow  again,  and  materially  injure  them  for 
the  next  season.  To  raise  from  seed  you  must  select 
from  the  semi-double  flowers  and  manage  them  the  same  as 
Ranunculus,  and  should  never  be  grown  in  the  same  bed 
often  as  the  soil  deteriorates.  This  family  does  not  contain 
above  two  hundred  with  names,  quite  enough  to  supply  any 
reasonable  person  with  all  the  colors  his  desire  could  wish. 


A  GUIDE  TO  FLORICTTLTURE, 


ACHI  MENES. 

u  When  the  wandering  eye 
Unfixed  is  in  a  verdant  ocean  lost, 
ANOTHER  FLORA  then,  of  bolder  hues, 
And  richer  sweets,  beyond  our  garden's  pride." 

This  is  a  family  of  bulbous  rooted  plants  of  recent  intro- 
duction, and  now  commands  much  attention  by  the  florist 
in  this  country  as  well  as  Europe.  A.  Longifoloia  is  of  an 
azure  blue  flower,  the  foliage  a  dark  green  and  of  fine  hab- 
itj  forming  a  beautiful  contrast,  growing  about  twenty  inch- 
es high  and  branching.  The  different  varieties  all  vary 
in  color  of  the  flowers,  I  do  not  know  of  a  family  of  flow- 
ers of  recent  introduction  more  prepossessing  than  the  Achi- 
menes,  all  growing  easily  from  cuttings,  but  is  principally 
propagated  from  bulbs  that  form  in  abundance  at  the  roots 
of  the  plant,  about  the  size  and  shape  of  a  pea.  I  observe 
some  of  the  latest  introduction  the  bulbs  appear  about 
half  an  inch  long  and  formed  of  scales,  small,  not  unlike 
the  burr  of  the  pine.  These  plants  are  better  calculated  for 
the  green-house,  as  the  bulbs  require  to  be  planted  early 
and  should  be  forced  with  bottom  heat,  either  of  tanner's 
bark  or  stable  manure  to  make  them  flower  early,  other- 
wise it  will  be  so  late  before  you  get  them  to  flower  that  the 
cold  weather  would  prevent  them  from  developing  their 
beautiful  and  graceful  flowers.  These  plants  are  tender 
and  will  not  bear  the  least  frost,  therefore  should  be  alwrays 
kept  in  the  house.  The  soil  best  calculated  for  the  whole 
variety  is  a  rich  soil,  principally  leaf  mould  and  sand  with 


ACHJMENES.  51 

a'good  drainage,  as  the  plant  requires  plenty  of  water,  still 
must  not  be  allowed  to  become  stagnant  in  the  pot.  The 
Achimenes  will  always  be  cheap,  as  it  increases  fast  when 
kept  in  the  green-house ;  with  those  not  having  that  conve- 
nience it  would  be  best  to  purchase  of  the  nurseryman  in 
June,  when  in  flower,  it  would  save  much  trouble  and  dis- 
appointment in  bringing  them  forward.  Those  who  wish 
to  raise  their  own  plants  should,  as  soon  as  their  plants  die 
down,  place  the  pots  in  a  cellar  in  the  winter,  but  if  allow- 
ed to  get  damp  or  freeze,  the  bulbs  would  be  destroyed,  or 
the  bulbs  may  be  packed  in  dry  sand.  In  March  the  bulbs 
should  be  potted  into  two  inch  pots  and  placed  in  a  hot-bed, 
and  be  kept  moderately  moist ;  in  three  or  four  weeks  the 
plants  will  begin  to  appear.  When  you  discover  the  pot 
filled  with  roots,  repot  them  into  four  inch  pots,  which  will 
be  large  enough  for  them  to  flower  in,  as  this  plant  does 
not  extend  its  roots  far,  therefore  requires  a  smaller  pot  than 
many  other  plants,  but  a  larger  one  is  generally  used  than 
necessary,  otherwise  the  top  would  be  too  heavy  for  the  pot. 
The  time  of  their  flowering  will  depend  on  the  propagator 
either  late  or  early,  the  sooner  brought  to  flower  the  better, 
for  if  late  the  cold  in  the  fall  will  stop  them.  Notwith- 
standing the  difficulty  attending  this  plant,  the  trouble  will 
amply  compensate  in  their  magnificent  display  of  flowers 
which  is  very  profuse. 


A  GUIDE  TO  FLORICULTURE. 


AZALEA. 

(PULCHRA.) 

"  There's  danger  in  the  dazzling  eye, 

That  woos  thee  with  its  witching  smile ; 
Another,  when  thou  art  not  by, 

Those  beaming  looks  would  fain  beguile." 

This  beautiful  hybrid  variety  of  one  of  our  most  interest 
ing  species  of  shrubby  flowering  plants,  commonly  called 
"Pretty  Azal- a,"  generally  flowers  from  March  to  April. 
The  spreading  branches  of  this  shrub  is  thickly  covered  with 
brown  hair,  the  lower  side  more  so  than  the  upper.  Leaf 
stalk  short,  flowers  solitary,  occasionally  two  or  three  ter- 
minal. Flower  stalk  with  white  hairs,  and  the  calyx  part- 
ed deeply  and  hairy.  Corolla,  bright  rose  color  with  red 
on  the  upper  segments,  stamens  ten,  and  the  stigma  a  glos- 
sy red.  This  magnificent  flowering  shrub  is  easily  kept  in 
a  pit,  and  when  wanted  to  flower  should  be  brought  into  a 
warm  room. 

There  is  a  large  family  of  the  Azalea  in  cultivation  much 
admired  for  their  commanding  appearance  when  in  bloom, 
for  when  well  grown  presents  one  mass  of  flowers.  There 
is  a  double  variety,  but  not  so  desirable  as  the  single,  and 
requires  a  warm  place  to  make  it  flower,  therefore  not  suit- 
able for  parlor  culture,  all  the  single  varieties  are.  The 
Azalea  is  a  little  tender,  like  most  plants  indigenous  to  Chi- 
na, therefore  should  be  kept  out  of  reach  of  frost ;  is  of  easy 
culture,  growing  readily  from  cuttings,  taking  off  the  young 
wood  as  soon  after  flowering  as  grown  from  four  to  six 


AZALEA.  5b 

inches  long,  be  sure  and  cut  close  to  the  old  wood,  then 
plant  the  cuttings  in  a  light  sandy  soil  and  cover  with  a 
bell  glass  managed  as  directed  for  cuttings.  In  six  weeks 
the  cuttings  will  be  sufficiently  rooted,  and  should  be  pot- 
ted off  and  then  placed  in  the  shade  until  established.  To 
propagate  from  seed  it  will  be  best  to  sow  them  as  soon  as 
ripe,  and  in  the  spring  when  the  young  plants  are  of  suf- 
ficient size,  which  will  be  when  three  inches  high,  pot  them 
off  and  treat  them  the  same  as  cuttings.  The  proper  time 
to  repot  the  old  plants  is  as  soon  as  done  flowering,  unless 
you  discover  seed  pods  on  them,  which  should  be  allowed 
to  ripen  first.  The  best  soil  to  grow  them  in  is  a  sandy 
loam,  and  is  also  applicable  ^to  sow  seed  in.  When  your 
plants  are  repotted  place  them  in  the  shade  until  September, 
when  they  should  be  removed  to  their  winter  quarters. 
The  Azalea,  during  its  flowering  season,  requires  plenty 
of  water  or  its  flowers  will  drop,  at  other  seasons  requir- 
ing but  little. 


AURICULA. 

(PRIMULA  AURICULA.) 

"  See, 

When  arrayed  in  sparkling  dust  and  velvet  pride, 
Like  brilliant  stars  arranged  in  splendid  row, 
The  proud  Auriculas  their  lustre  show." 

This  beautiful  gem  of  flora  is  a  native  of  the  Swiss  Al- 
pine Mountains,  and  is  supposed  to  be  a  variety  with  Pri- 


54  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

mula  HelveticuSj  Nevis,  and  Viscosa.  Its  original  color  is 
orange  yellow,  not  much  unlike  the  English  Cowslip,  and 
not  over  prepossessing  in  appearance,  unless  in  its  pristine 
state.  The  Auricula  was  imported  into  England  in  the  six- 
teenth century,  and  was  found  susceptible  of  improvement 
by  cultivation.  Since  that  time  much  care  has  been  be- 
stowed by  florists,  and  the  perfection  it  has  attained  is  aston- 
ishing, so  much  so  that  it  has  become  one  of  the  leading 
florist  flowers  of  England ;  and  instead  of  the  original  col- 
ors is  now  one  of  the  most  beautiful  imaginable.  There 
are  catalogues  published  in  London  containing  several  hun- 
dred with  different  names,  from  fifty  cents  each  up  to  fifty 
dollars,  depending  on  their  perfection  of  beauty  and  scarcity. 
It  is  a  matter  of  surprise  that  this  delightful  flower  is  not 
more  cultivated  in  this  country,  for  any  situation  that  will 
preserve  the  Carnation  through  the  winter  would  be  con- 
genial to  the  Auricula ;  indeed  I  think  the  Carnation  the 
more  tender  of  the  two.  Being  a  native  of  the  Alpine  re- 
gions of  Switzerland,  Italy,  and  Germany,  it  remains  dor- 
mant through  the  winter,  being  entirely  covered  with  snow, 
therefore  it  must  be  conclusive  that  any  situation  that  is  a 
little  above  freezing  point  is  suitable  —  for  instance,  a  cellar 
or  pit  is  all  the  protection  necessary.  During  the  months 
of  December  and  January  must  be  kept  tolerably  dry.  In 
the  beginning  of  February  take  some  of  the  soil  out  of  the 
pot  without  disturbing  the  roots,  and  replace  it  with  fresh, 
and  begin  to  water,  moderately  at  first,  and  the  benefit  re- 
sulting will  soon  be  perceptible.  The  best  time  to  take  of! 
the  side  shoots  is  in  the  spring  when  the  plants  are  in  flow- 
er, as  you  can  more  readily  mark  the  varieties.  It  is  not 
material  whether  the  side  shoots  have  root  fibres  or  not,  as 


AURICULA.  55 

they  will  soon  strike  root  at  that  season,  and  the  spring  fol- 
lowing will  flower.  In  the  summer  this  plant  delights  in 
the  shade,  and  must  be  regularly  watered.  The  best  time 
to  repot  is  in  the  month  of  September,  in  four  inch  pots,  for 
this  plant  will  flower  better  when  the  roots  come  in  contact 
with  the  sides  of  the  pot.  The  best  soil  for  the  Auricula 
is  from  the  woods,  more  particularly  in  the  ravines,  where 
rotten  wood  and  leaves  are  washed,  with  a  mixture  of  sand 
or  fine  stone. 

From  the  works  published  in  England  on  the  culture  of 
this  plant,  one  would  suppose  it  difficult  to  manage,  for  the 
methods  advocated  by  different  authors  (for  each  recom- 
mends a  different  soil)  only  mystify  and  perplex  amateurs, 
consequently  many  valuable  plants  are  lost.  Reflection 
should  teach  us  in  our  experience  that  it  would  be  more  ju- 
dicious in  the  management  of  Alpine  plants,  to  come  as 
near  as  we  can  to  their  native  habits,  in  soil  and  protection. 
In  almost  every  cottage  in  England  the  traveller's  eye  is 
greeted  with  the  Auricula,  and  it  was  a  gratification  to  the 
writer  of  this,  during  a  tour  through  that  country  in  1837, 
to  visit  a  garden  in  the  beginning  of  May,  at  the  end  of 
which  was  a  stage  of  these  flowers,  about  one  hundred  in 
number.  Words  cannot  describe  the  feelings  experienced 
at  that  moment,  when  presented  to  view;  being  fairly  riv- 
eted to  the  spot  with  amazement  and  delight.  Such  a  sight 
never  before  met  my  eye,  and  I  believe  never  will  again. 
I  had  often  heard  the  beauties  of  this  flower  extolled,  but 
never  before  was  their  splendor  realized ;  and  I  may  with 
safety  say  the  recollection  will  never  be  erased  from  my 
memory.  When  I  regained  possession  of  myself,  and  view- 
ed the  beautiful  color  of  the  various  flowers,  the  black,  the 


66  A  GUIDE  TO  FLORICULTURE. 

'  '"•**• 

brown,  the  purple,  richness  of  the  blue,  the  brightness  of 
the  pink,  the  splendor  of  the  scarlet,  and  richness  of  the 
crimson ;  some  edged  with  green,  some  with  white,  and 
others  with  grey;  again  others  with  dark  ground,  with 
beautiful  white  powder  sprinkled  over  the  flower,  as  if  the 
wind  itself  threatened  to  waft  its  delicacy  away,  and  destroy 
the  incomparable  beauty  of  the  flower — then  again  the 
largeness  of  the  trusses  and  their  fragrance  —  all  these  in- 
toxicated the  mind  with  delight.  In  that  collection  I  no- 
ticed the  "  Conqueror  of  Europe,"  price  fifteen  dollars ; 
«  Robert  Burns,"  (Hodges)  " Ne  plus  Ultra,"  "Champion," 
"Hero,"  and  others  equally  valuable ;  but  these  were  many 
the  most  prominent.  I  have  from  that  time  been  an  admir- 
er of  the  Auricula. 

This  plant  is  extensively  cultivated  in  England  by  seed, 
by  most  gardeners  and  amateurs,  and  presented  for  exhibi- 
tion, and  prizes  are  awarded  to  the  successful  flower.  The 
Lancashire  weavers  are  the  most  successful  Auricula  grow- 
ers, as  it  appears  from  floricultural  reports.  There  is  some 
difficulty  in  getting  the  seed  to  germinate  if  not  fresh,  as  it 
may  occur  sometimes  that  seed  will  be  one  or  two  years  be* 
fore  they  come  up  unless  forced  in  a  hot-bed.  When  the 
seedlings  have  formed  four  leaves  they  should  be  trans- 
planted into  thumb  pots,  and  be  kept  in  the  shade  and  never 
suffered  to  become  dry,  nor  be  placed  where  the  rain  falls, 
or  they  will  be  washed  out  of  the  soil.  Seedlings  will  flow- 
er the  second  season.  The  soil  recommended  for  full 
grown  plants  will  also  do  for  seed  and  seedlings. 


ACACIA.  57 


ACACIA. 

u  Our  rocks  are  rough,  but  smiling  there 
The  Acacia  weaves  her  yellow  hair, 
Lonely  and  sweet,  nor  loved  the  less 
For  flowering  in  a  wilderness ; 
Then  come,  my  Arab  maid  will  be 
The  loved  and  lone  Acacia  tree." 

The  Acacia  is  a  'very  numerous  family  of  deciduous 
plants,  generally  found  in  all  parts  of  the  globe;  most  of  the 
showy  varieties  are  generally  calculated  for  the  green- 
house, while  some  few  are  calculated  to  decorate  th<£  shrub- 
bery. The  common  Acacia,  better  known  as  the  Locust, 
is  a  native  of  this  country,  and  one  of  the  finest  ornamental 
shade  trees  ever  produced ;  although  of  a  showy  appear* 
ance  in  groves  or  round  dwellings,  it  is  not  calculated  for  the 
confines  of  a  city,  as  it  is  subject  to  the  attacks  of  insects, 
and  then  easily  broken  off  by  the  wind,  thus  destroying 
its  primitive  beauty  and  majestic  form.  For  a  grove  or 
shade  in  the  country  it  is  unsurpassed,  and  is  not  ravaged  by 
insects,  as  the  birds  feed  on  and  destroy  them.  Then  again 
the  wood  is  valuable  to  farmers  for  posts.  Their  roots  do 
not  extend  deep  underground,  consequently  is  apt  to  throw 
up  suckers  in  abundance,  which  must  be  either  taken  off 
and  planted,  or  destroyed  when  young.  This  tree  is  not  so 
early  as  most  of  our  natives  in  putting  forth  in  the  spring ; 
the  leaves  and  flowers  appear  much  about  the  same  time, 
and  the  fragrance  of  the  flowers  can  be  inhaled  for  some 
distance,  so  strong  and  delightful  is  the  odor.  The  Rosa 
Acacia,  Robina  Hispida,  is  certainly  a  beautiful  deciduous 


68  A   GUIDE    TO   FLORICULTURE. 

shrub,  very  ornamental,  in  the  flower  garden,  generally 
flowering  in  a  rich  loam  from  May  to  September,  and  is 
hardy.  The  racemes  axillary,  leaves  are  pinnate,  and  the 
stem  hispid.  The  flowers  are  drooping,  racemes  of  rosy 
pink,  the  flowers  in  the  form  of  pea  blossoms,  clustered  and 
fascinating  in  appearance,  commanding  the  admiration  of 
persons  possessing  the  least  taste  for  flowers. 

This  plant  is  propagated  by  suckers,  or  grafted  on  the 
common  Locust  from  one  to  three  feet  from  the  ground, 
according  to  fancy.  This  shrub  flowers  better  when  graft- 
ed than  when  on  its  own  bottom  ;  not  only  so  but  the  flow- 
ers are  larger.  These  plants  should  be  grafted  in  the 
spring;  the  operation  is  performed  in  the  usual  way  of 
grafting  fruit  trees.  There  are  some  fine  varieties  from  the 
East  Indies  which  require  to  be  cultivated  in  the  green- 
house. The  finest  of  this  species  is  A.  Laphantc,  the  blos- 
soms of  which  are  a  clear  sulphur  yellow,  of  most  imposing 
beauty ;  even  the  delicate  foliage  with  its  pinnated  leaves, 
which  resembles  the  sensitive  plant,  is  an  ornament  inde- 
pendent of  the  external  beauty  of  the  flowers.  It  is  some- 
what doubtful  if  this  plant  would  suit  the  parlor,  as  the 
least  frost  would  be  detrimental,  unless  the  heat  of  the  room 
be  such  as  to  exclude  the  frost  entirely,  and  if  the  heat  was 
not  uniform  would  be  also  injurious.  A.  Saligna,  com- 
monly called  the  "  willow,"  is  another  variety,  from  New 
South  Wales,  and  was  introduced  in  1818;  not  so  tender 
as  the  other,  will  grow  ten  feet  high.  The  leaves  are  more 
in  the  shape  of  the  Oleander  leaf,  only  more  blunt  at  the 
end,  quite  entire,  the  flowers  yellow,  the  seed  pod  contracted 
between  the  seed.  There  is  no  doubt  this  variety  would 
do  well  in  the  parlor,  being  a  free  bloomer,  and  will  with- 


ACACIA.  59 

stand  considerable  frost ;  this  makes  it  a  desirable  variety. 
A-  Oxycedorus  is  another  still  more  desirable,  and  will 
withstand  a  hard  frost.  This  plant  was  introduced  in  1824 
from  New  Holland.  Branches  of  this  variety  spread,  the 
points  cernuous,  leaves  rigid,  alternate  or  in  whorls,  linear, 
lanceolate,  stipules  short,  rigid  spine,  about  the  length  of 
those  at  the  point  of  the  leaf,  peduncles  clothed,  dense  wood. 
This  variety  will  grow  readily  from  cuttings,  and  indeed  so 
will  most  of  the  Acacias,  but  some  are  more  difficult  than 
others.  It  appears  that  we  are  indebted  to  New  Holland 
for  some  of  the  finest  varieties,  and  those  not  so  tender  as 
many,  though  of  late  there  have  been  some  beautiful  plants 
brought  from  Africa,  but  are  very  tender.  There  are  somo 
of  this  species  of  ornamental  plants  in  China ;  the  flowers 
are  used  as  a  yellow  die,  being  very  permanent,  as  may  be 
seen  by  their  silks  of  that  color,  which  are  imported  from 
there ;  but  to  follow  the  history  and  description  of  this  nu- 
merous and  valuable  family  of  plants  would  be  foreign  to 
the  purpose,  and  this  article  is  now  longer  than  originally 
intended  when  first  commenced. 


BEAUTIFUL   NEMOPHILA. 

(NEMOPHILA  INSIGNIS.) 

This  plant  is  of  late  introduction  and  better  calculated 
for  parlor  culture  than  the  open  ground,  in  habit  of  spread- 
ing, the  leaves  scolloped,  flowers  cup  shape,  of  a  beautiful 


60  A    GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

azure  blue,  centre  white,  does  not  grow  above  six  inches 
high,  is  considered  hardy,  flowering  in  the  spring.  The 
seeds  of  this  annual  should  be  sown  in  September  in  pots, 
and  brought  into  the  house  in  November,  and  will  flower 
early.  There  are  two  other  varieties,  N.  Atomaria,  and  N. 
Discordalis ;  the  first  raised  from  seed  by  Mr.  Turner  of 
Chalvey,  in  England,  and  is  a  pale  blue,  striated  all  over 
with  white,  very  distinct ;  and  the  latter  has  a  black  disk 
with  a  white  edge,  extremely  pretty. 

The  soil  for  these  annuals  should  be  a  rich  loam,  and 
their  treatment  should  be  alike.  Sow  seeds  again  in  the 
spring  for  a  second  crop. 


BINDWEED. 

(CONVOLVULUS  ARVENSIS.) 

There  is  a  numerous  family  of  the  Bindweed,,  natives  of 
all  parts  of  the  globe.  C.  Arvensis  is  a  perennial  runner,  a 
native  of  England,  bearing  a  rose  colored  flower  in  June 
and  July,  rather  small  and  trumpet  shape.  Leaves  sagitate, 
lobes  acute,  peduncles  are  flowered,  minute  bracteae,  distinct 
from  the  flowers.  This  variety  does  not  possess  much 
merit  and  may  be  considered  the  most  inferior  of  the  whole 
tribe.  There  is  another  variety  extensively  cultivated  and 
better  known  as  the  "  Morning  Glory."  C.  Major  posses- 
sing innumerable  variety  of  flowers  of  all  colors,  of  great 
richness.  This  variety  shows  to  great  advantage  wheD 


~byf£ovLslon  Sc  Slonniwn.  Paternoster  Rew  3ep.2  1&U-1+ 


BINDWEED.  61 

trained  to  the  arbor  or  window,  affording  a  good  shade 
while  the  flowers  are  imposing  to  the  sight,  affording  a 
double  incentive  to  their  culture. 

C.  Minor,  is  another  extremely  beautiful  variety,  well 
calculated  for  the  border,  running  about  two  feet  and  pro- 
lific in  flowers.  This  plant  is  known  as  the  tricolor  con- 
volvulus, the  flowers  being  white,  yellow,  and  blue.  The 
last  two  varieties  are  annuals,  requiring  a  rich  soil  to  flower 
well,  and  generally  flower  from  June  until  killed  by  the 
frost.  There  are  many  others  well  worthy  of  culture,  but 
the  above  are  old  favorites,  and  will  always  retain  their  po- 
sition in  all  gardens. 


BALSAM.   TOUCH-ME-NOT. 

(iMPATIENS   BALSAMINA.) 

"  To  mark  the  matchless  working  of  the  power, 
That  shuts  within  the  seed  the  future  flower, 
Bid  those  in  elegance  of  power  excell, 
In  color  those,  and  those  delight  in  smel  ; 
Sends  nature  forth,  the  daughter  of  the  skies, 
To  dance  on  earth,  and  charm  the  human  eyes." 

The  Balsam,  or  Touch-me-not,  is  generally  supposed  to 
be  a  native  of  England,  which  is  not  the  case,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  I.  Noli-me-tangere,  which  is  found  growing  in 
Yorkshire  and  some  other  parts,  while  many  others  are  na- 
tives of  the  East  Indies,  and  was  imported  as  far  back  a? 


62  A   GUIDE  TO   FLOlUCtLTtTIlE. 

1596,  and  even  some  from  Italy  in  1564 ;  and  /.  Fulva,  the 
tawny  flowered,  is  a  native  of  this  country,  and  may  be 
found  growing  about  the  Niagara  Falls.  1.  Pallida  is  also 
another  indigenous  to  this  country,  resembling  much  the 
English  variety. 

The  Balsam  delights  in  a  humid  and  shady  situation, 
and  is  unquestionably  the  handsomest  annual  in  cultivation. 
The  flowers  are  formed  in  a  cone,  the  colors  various.  The 
stem  erect  with  succulent  joints,  from  two  to  three  feet  high, 
with  numerous  branches.  The  leaves  generally  ovate,  ser- 
rated, petiolate.  It  is  observable  that  this  variety  of  annuals 
in  the  hottest  weather  assumes  all  freshness  and  beauty r,  at  the 
same  time  while  most  other  plants  are  suffering.  The  rea- 
son this  plant  has  been  named  Impatiens,  is  from  the  sim- 
ple circumstance  of  the  irritability  attached  to  the  seed  pod, 
which  is  formed  of  fine  valves,  and  when  pressed  with  the 
finger  and  thumb  spring  with  great  elasticity,  and  the  seed, 
without  care,  is  scattered  some  distance.  The  valves  of 
the  seed  vessel  are  larger  in  the  middle,  and  each  valve 
contains  a  certain  degree  of  fluid,  the  outer  side,  as  may 
reasonably  be  supposed,  is  more  dense  than  the  inner,  and 
on  the  least  pressure  the  ends  containing  less  fluid  hold  to- 
gether rather  longer,  which  makes  the  sudden  action  more 
sensible  in  the  middle  than  if  all  gave  at  the  same  time. 
This  is  better  illustrated  by  pressing  the  valves  that  have 
not  attained  maturity,  as  the  action  of  the  movement  is  not 
so  sudden. 

Although  this  plant  has  been  in  cultivation  so  long  its 
character  is  but  partially  understood,  for  in  former  days  the 
Balsam  was  considered  a  tender  annual,  but  that  opinion  is 
fast  dissipating ;  no  doubt  it  arose  from  the  circumstance 


BALSAM.       TOUCH-ME-NOT.  63 

that  the  seed  used  to  be  sown  in  the  month  of  January,  in 
a  hot- bed,  and  the  concomitant  usually  attending  was  its 
flowering  before  it  could  be  safely  planted  out  in  the  open 
ground,  for  it  could  not  stand  the  chilly  clime  of  England 
when  planted  so  early.     The  Balsam  started  in  the  hot-bed 
will  unquestionably  produce  finer  colors  than  if  brought 
forward  in  the  open  air,  a  circumstance  contrary  to   the 
nature  of  flowers  in  general     The  great  characteristic  of 
the  Balsam  is  a  fine  double  flower  with  brilliant  colors ;  to 
obtain  this  object  the  desideratum  is  time  and  attention,  and 
never  sow  the  seed  until  five  years  old,  for  the  older  the 
better,  and  will  be  more  double  in  their  flowers.     How  fre- 
quently is  it  exemplified  before  our  eyes,  when  we  see  these 
fine  ambrosial  flowers  in  a  garden,  when  the  amateur  begs 
a  few  seed,  which  are  sown  the  next  season,  under  the  sup- 
position that  they  will  produce  as  good,  when  contrary  to 
expectation,  in  most  cases  the  flowers  are  single  or  nearly 
so.     Whereas  had  those  seeds  been  kept  five  years,  their 
expectations  would  have  been  realized  with  double  flowers. 
To  raise  fine  flowers  that  will  produce  the  richest  colors 
the  seed  should  be  sown  in  a  hot-bed  in  the  month  of 
March,  in  a  pan  of  rich  sandy  loam,  and  then  placed  in  the 
hot-bed.     When  the  plants  are  two  or  three  inches  high 
transplant  them  into  two  inch  pots  and  return  them  to  the 
hot-bed  to  strike  fresh  root.     When  you  find  the  roots  be- 
gin to  shoot  through  the  hole  in  the  bottom,  without  break- 
ing the  ball  of  dirt,  repot  them  into  one  a  size  larger,  giving 
them  plenty  of  air  (but  avoid  frost)  until  the  plants  are  hard- 
ened, keeping  them  as  near  the  glass  as  possible  to  prevent 
the  plants  being  drawn  up ;  as  soon  as  you  can  plant  them 
in  the  open  ground  with  safety  do  so.     Should  you  be  de- 


64  A  GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

sirous  to  bloom  them  in  pots,  let  them  be  seven  inch  size. 
For  a  second  crop  sow  more  seeds  in  the  open  ground  in 
April,  and  when  sufficiently  large  transplant  them  to  where 
intended  to  flower.  By  this  method  fine  flowers  can  be 
produced  from  June  until  late  in  the  fall.  The  first  flower 
buds  had  better  be  taken  off  to  make  the  plants  stronger 
and  the  flowers  larger  and  more  conspicuous  in  their  beau- 
ty, which  is  so  agreeable  to  the  eye. 

This  is  one  of  the  flowers  nature  designed  to  soothe  the 
mind  by  its  external  beauty  after  our  daily  toil,  which  cre- 
ates in  us  a  secret  pleasure  in  contemplating  the  works  of 
nature  and  art.  It  has  often  been  a  wonder  to  me  that  the 
Author  of  our  being  should  give  that  portion  of  the  human 
race  (females)  a  greater  love  for  flowers  than  our  own  sex. 
It  must  arise  from  no  other  source  than  their  hearts  being 
more  refined  and  more  open  to  the  beauties  of  nature.  How 
observable  is  this  truth,  for  when  we  wish  to  ingratiate  into 
their  favor  (if  in  the  flower  season)  we  think  a  bouquet  the 
greatest  favor  to  be  offered.  We  are  prompted  to  this  by 
an  innate  feeling  that  it  is  the  most  acceptable  offering  to 
be  made.  Ladies  understanding  the  language  of  flowers 
receive  them  with  more  pleasure  than  the  donor  for  one 
moment  imagines. 


BEAUTIFUL    CLARKIA.  65 

BEAUTIFUL   CLARKIA. 

(CLARKIA  PULCHELLA.) 

This  hardy  flowering  plant  is  rather  prepossessing  in  ap- 
pearance, is  a  native  of  California,  and  succeeds  best  if  the 
seeds  be  sown  in  the  fall  in  any  common  garden  soil.  This 
plant  is  of  erect  habit  and  inclinable  to  branch ;  the  leaves 
are  long  and  narrow,  flowers  four,  spreading  petals,  each 
formed  of  three  narrow  forked  lobes,  of  a  rose  color,  growing 
one  foot  high.  This  plant  was  discovered  by  Governor 
Lewis  in  his  travels  through  that  country.  Within  a  few 
years  the  English  florists  have  succeeded  in  raising  a  dou- 
ble variety  that  seeds  freely,  and  is  now  becoming  very 
extensively  circulated,  which  gives  it  some  importance  as  a 
border  flower. 


BOX. 

(BUXUS.) 

"  Nor  BOX,  nor  lines,  without  their  use  are  made, 
Smooth  grained  and  proper  for  the  Turner's  trade, 
Which  curious  hands  may  carve  and  seal, 
With  use  invade." 

The  common  Dutch  or  Dwarf  Box  is  a  beautiful  orna- 
ment in  the  flower  garden,  whether  we  view  it  as  a  solitary 


66  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

plant  or  round  the  borders  of  the  bed,  There  is  something 
lively  in  its  appearance  in  the  summer,  and  its  being  ever- 
green gives  life  to  that  department  through  the  dreary 
months  of  winter,  when  scarcely  any  other  plant  shows  the 
least  vestage  of  life. 

The  box  is  easily  propagated  from  slips  planted  in  March, 
and  will  soon  root.  The  next  season  it  should  be  planted 
round  the  borders  of  the  beds  so  that  the  leaves  will  just 
touch,  and  not  allow  more  than  one  inch  above  ground,  and 
the  following  season  begin  to  trim  the  tops  so  as  to  make 
them  all  one  height,  and  should  at  no  time  be  allowed  to 
grow  higher  than  five  inches  when  round  the  border.  Box 
should  be  trimmed  in  the  spring  and  fall  in  damp  weather, 
or  the  ends  will  turn  color  and  injure  their  beauty.  It  will 
grow  in  any  garden  soil,  and  will  bear  removing  at  any 
time  in  the  year  but  mid-summer. 

There  are  other  varieties  also  ornamental  in  the  garden. 
The  common  Tree  Box  is  a  native  of  Europe  and  is  found 
in  some  parts  of  Asia.  In  England  it  has  long  ceased  to 
grow  in  its  pristine  state,  and  is  only  to  be  found  under  tho 
culture  of  the  florist.  There  are  several  places  in  England 
where  it  used  to  grow,  named  after  it,  for  instance  Box  Hill 
in  Surrey,  Boxly  in  Kent,  and  Boxwell  in  Gloucestershire. 
The  Boxwood  imported  from  the  Levant  is  considered  the 
largest  and  best  for  mechanical  purposes,  and  is  held  high 
and  sold  by  weight  to  engravers  on  wood,  and  wind  instru- 
ments ;  also  for  mathematical  instrument  makers,  &c. 


CALLA   jETiriOPICA.  67 

(ULLA    J1THIOPICA. 

(ETHIOPIAN  CALLA.) 

This  is  a  much  admired  perennial  and  is  cultivated  to 
some  extent  throughout  the  civilized  world,  and  is  treated 
as  a  tender  plant ;  the  least  frost  will  destroy  it.  The  Calla 
is  a  water  plant,  growing  in  swampy  grounds  at  the  Cape 
of  Good  Hope,  throwing  up  a  stem  in  the  spring  two  or 
three  feet  high,  depending  on  the  age  of  the  plant.  The 
flower  is  singularly  formed  of  one  whorl  or  vase-like  calyx 
of  pure  white.  The  leaves  arrow  shape,  formed  at  the  end 
of  the  leaf  stem.  From  July  to  September  this  plant  should 
be  kept  moderately  dry,  and  in  September  should  be  repot- 
ted into  a  rich  sandy  loam,  previous  to  which  take  off  the 
side  shoots  and  pot  them  separately.  This  plant  will  stand 
out  all  the  winter  in  the  South  if  planted  in  the  mud  in  a 
pond,  about  two  or  three  feet  from  the  top  of  the  water ;  the 
root  will  then  be  sufficiently  protected  from  the  effects  of 
frost.  This  plant,  when  in  the  parlor,  should  be  kept  in  a 
pan  of  water,  which  should  be  filled  every  day,  as  it  will 
discharge  a  great  deal  at  the  tip  of  the  leaves,  and  should 
never  be  allowed  to  be  dry  while  growing  or  it  will  not 
flower.  This  plant  is  increased  by  offsets  which  must  be 
treated  the  same  as  grown  plants. 


68  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

CATCHFLY. 

(SILENE   ANGELICA.) 

There  are  several  varieties  of  the  Catchfly,  natives  of  Eng- 
land. This  annual  flowering  plant  throws  up  a  stem  about 
eighteen  inches  high,  bearing  white  flowers.  The  petals 
are  hairy,  small,  and  viscid,  crowned,  bifid ;  the  calyx  have 
setaceous  teeth ;  fruit  ovate  and  partially  reflexed.  Lobel's 
Catchfly  is  considered  the  best  annual  bearing  a  pink  flow- 
er ;  both  are  ornamental  and  should  be  planted  together, 
as  the  different  colors  give  a  pleasing  effect  when  mixed. 
This  plant  generally  flowers  in  June,  but  by  sowing  the 
seed  at  different  times  will  flower  accordingly,  and  if  sown 
in  the  fall  will  withstand  the  severity  of  the  winter,  and 
make  strong  plants  in  the  spring,  and  flower  early.  When 
the  seeds  are  once  sown  in  the  garden  they  need  no  further 
trouble,  as  they  generally  sow  their  own  seeds  and  can  be 
transplanted  to  where  intended  to  flower,  being  suited  to 
any  kind  of  soil. 


COFFEE-TREE 

ARABICA.) 


This  is  certainly  a  delightful  ornamental  evergreen  tree, 
a  native  of  Arabia  and  Abyssinia,  of  easy  culture,  and  de- 


COFFEE-TREE.  69 

sirable  for  the  green-house  or  parlor.  The  branches  are 
opposite,  gradually  diminishing  in  length  as  they  near  the 
top.  Leaves  opposite  with  short  feeble  stalks,  oblong,  ovate, 
acuminate  and  entire,  five  inches  long,  dark  green  and  glos- 
sy.. The  flowers  white,  sweet  scented,  and  in  groups  in  the 
axil  of  the  upper  leaves,  and  divided  into  lanceolate  pointed 
segments.  Stamens  project  above  the  tube ;  the  fruit  round- 
ish, umbellate  at  the  top,  changing  from  green  to  red,  con- 
taining two  seeds,  which  are  the  berries  now  so  extensively 
used  as  a  beverage. 

Coffee  was  first  cultivated  at  Batavia  where  the  first  ber- 
ries were  sent  in  1690  ;  from  this  place  a  plant  was  sent  to 
the  Governor  of  the  Dutch  East  India  Company  in  Am- 
sterdam, but  the  plant  did  not  succeed  so  well  as  expected, 
the  climate  being  too  cold.  In  1718  it  was  sent  to  Surinam, 
a  Dutch  settlement  in  the  West  Indies ;  the  climate  being 
more  congenial  it  did  well,  and  propagated  fast  from  seed. 
From  this  place  it  was  introduced  into  the  different  tropical 
Islands,  and  soon  became  established  as  an  article  of  com- 
merce as  well  as  luxury.  The  fruit  raised  by  parlor  cult- 
ure does  not  contain  so  fine  a  flavor  as  the  berries  imported, 
setting  aside  the  value  of  the  berries,  their  beautiful  appear- 
ance which  are  abundant  at  all  times,  and  the  fragrance  of 
the  flowers,  make  these  shrubs  highly  ornamental  and  de- 
sirable. The  Coffee  is  easily  raised  from  seed,  and  will 
bear  fruit  the  third  year  if  planted  in  a  rich  sandy  loam  in 
pots  well  drained,  and  watered  freely,  and  in  winter  guard- 
ed against  frost. 


70  A  GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 


CLEMATIS,   OR   TRAVELLER'S   JOY. 

"  The  Travellers  Joy  is  a  darling  thing, 

None  loveth  it  more  than  I ; 
I've  seen  it  in  courtly  gardens  cling ; 
I've  seen  it  'mid  rocks  and  ruins  spring; 
I  know  hedge-rows  where  it's  wandering 
And  I  smile  as  I  pass  it  by." 

This  is  a  fine  family  of  half  hardy  herbaceous  flowering 
plants,  natives  of  different  countries,  some  are  sweet  scented ; 
and  as  a  pot  plant  well  calculated  for  parlor  culture,  run- 
ning from  ten  to  fifteen  feet,  which  requires  a  frame  of  fan- 
cy work  to  show  the  plant  to  the  best  advantage.  The 
Clematis  has  been  in  cultivation  about  four  hundred  years, 
and  is  much  esteemed  by  florists  and  retains  a  conspicuous 
place  in  the  green-house,  although  it  will  bear  considerable 
frost.  The  leaves  generally  are  pinnate,  segments  smooth, 
entire,  or  three  lobed,  and  various  form,  of  rapid  growth, 
the  wood  slender  and  shrubby,  and  is  easily  grown  from 
cuttings  in  the  spring  or  by  seed  ;  the  soil  for  these  plants 
should  be  rich.  To  raise  new  varieties  it  will  be  necessary 
to  have  recourse  to  impregnation,  as  this  variety  of  plants 
will  not  cross  by  natural  means. 

To  take  this  extensive  variety  of  trailing  plants  as  a 
whole  it  would  be  difficult  to  find  any  more  beautiful,  or  of 
easier  culture,  desirable  as  well  as  ornamental,  repaying  the 
amateur  for  the  little  trouble  bestowed  on  its  culture.  The 
Clematis  introduced  by  Dr.  Seibold,  named  "  Violet.  Clema- 
tis" is  considered  one  of  the  best,  of  a  clear  arid  delightful 


CLEMATIS,  OR  TRAVELLERS  JOY.          71 

pirrple.  C.  Flawula  is  a  fine  sweet  scented  variety,  but 
the  leaves  are  poisonous  and  should  be  kept  out  of  the  reach 
of  children.  C.  Florida  bears  a  white  flower,  also  desira- 
ble. A  few  well  selected  plants  of  different  colors  would 
make  a  splendid  appearance  in  the  window  of  any  amateur 
in  the  spring  and  summer  while  flowering-. 


CINERARIA,  OR  THE   CAPE  ASTER. 

"  The  youthful  season's  wanton  bloom 
Renews  the  beauty  of  each  flower, 
And  to  the  sweet  songed  bird  is  come 
Glad  welcome  from  its  darling  flower." 

This  is  a  delightful  herbaceous  perennial  and  is  becom- 
ing quite  a  favorite  in  the  green-house  as  well  as  the  parlor. 
Within  a  few  years  the  florists  of  England  and  France  have 
been  industrious  in  hybridizing  the  old  varieties,  which  are 
natives  of  Europe,  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and  other  parts,  by 
these  means  we  are  furnished  with  those  delightful  hybrid 
flowers,  now  so  industriously  cultivated  by  nurserymen,  with 
Aster  like  flowers,  developing  their  lively  appearance  in  the 
early  spring.  The  leaves  of  the  Cineraria  are  alternate, 
covered  with  a  white  soft  down,  the  under  part  of  a  purple 
cast,  the  flower  stem  from  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  high, 
with  a  fine  radient  corymb  or  panicled  flowers  of  spicy  fra- 
grance at  the  extreme  ends,  some  bearing  purple,  white 
with  a  purple  disk,  others  pink,  and  some  white  tipped  with 
purple,  and  many  other  colors  and  shades.  There  are  sev- 


72  A  GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

eral  ways  of  propagating  these  plants ;  in  the  first  place  by 
seeds,  and  the  best  time  to  sow  them  is  early  in  the  spring 
or  late  in  the  fall,  the  dry  weather  of  the  summer  being 
rather  severe  for  seedlings  of  this  species  of  plants  unless 
very  careful.  The  seeds  should  be  sown  in  a  pan  or  box 
of  light  rich  soil,  with  a  good  drainage;  they  should 
not  be  covered;  the  soil  should  be  kept  moist,  and  as  soon 
as  the  seedlings  have  formed  a  few  leaves  should  be  potted 
off  into  two  inch  pots,  and  when  you  discover  the  pot  filled 
with  roots  shift  them  into  a  pot  one  size  larger ;  in  like 
manner  shift  into  one  of  four  inch,  which  will  be  large 
enough  to  flower  in.  I  have  generally  found  the  seed  sav- 
ed in  this  country  does  not  germinate  well.  I  would  recom- 
mend imported  seed,  not  only  for  the  sake  of  their  vegetative 
properties,  but  you  may  in  all  probability  secure  some  new 
hybrid,  as  the  nurserymen  in  Europe  raise  such  vast  num- 
bers in  the  same  green-house  that  the  chance  of  crossing  is 
decidedly  greater  than  with  us,  where  our  collection  is  lim- 
ited. This  plant  is  easily  cultivated  by  slips  taken  off  at 
any  season  ;  the  most  judicious  time  is  September,  as  these 
cuttings  will  make  good  flowering  plants  the  following 
spring.  The  roots  of  many  of  this  variety,  if  allowed  to  die 
down,  will  spring  up  again ;  and  can  sometimes  be  divid- 
ed. It  must  be  remembered  that  these  plants,  though  easily 
cultivated,  are  extremely  tender  and  soon  destroyed  by  frost. 
When  your  plants  have  done  flowering  they  should  be  placed 
in  the  shade,  and  give  no  more  water  than  to  keep  them 
from  flagging ;  ox  you  may  plant  them  in  the  open  ground, 
which  will  save  much  trouble,  until  you  take  off  your  cut 
tings  in  the  fall.  The  soil  best  adapted  for  their  culture  is 


CINERARIA,   OR   THE   CAPE   ASTER.  73 

a  rich  and  light  soil,  and  the  pots  must  have  a  good  drain- 
age, and  if  kept  in  the  shade  will  retain  their  colors  more 
pure. 


CUCKOO-FLOWER. 

(LYCHNIS  FLOSCULI.) 

This  a  pretty  herbaceous  perennial  flowering  plant,  a 
native  of  England,  where  it  is  found  growing  profusely 
along  the  lanes  and  road-side.  Flowering  from  April  to 
June,  bearing  a  double  flower  of  a  rose  color,  on  a  stem 
about  fifteen  inches  high.  The  leaves  are  pinnate,  the  rad- 
icles roundish,  toothed,  leaflets  those  of  the  stem  alternate, 
with  leaflets  becoming  narrower  and  more  entire  at  the  top. 
The  flowers  terminate  the  stem  in  a  raceme  near  a  corymb 
form.  This  plant  is  often  sold  for  Lychnis  Dioica  (Ragged 
Robin  ),  and  is  erroneously  so  named  in  published  cata- 
logues ;  both  are  good  border  flowers,  and  deserve  a  place 
in  the  flower  garden  or  the  parlor.  The  Cuckoo  flower  is 
perfectly  hardy  and  of  easy  culture,  and  is  increased  by 
dividing  the  roots  in  July ;  each  crown  must  be  furnished 
with  root  fibres,  then  planted  in  the  shade  to  gain  strength. 
This  plant  is  perfectly  hardy,  although  cultivated  in  the 
green-house,  where  it  exhibits  its  beautiful  flowers  quite 
early  in  the  spring. 


74  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

COBEA. 

(SCANDENS.) 

This  is  a  fine  running  trellis  plant,  a  native  of  Mexico, 
where  it  is  known  as  Gedra  neorada,  and  may  be  consid- 
ered the  best  of  its  species.  The  flowers  are  of  a  bell  shape, 
at  first  of  a  dingy  green,  becoming  a  fine  purple.  The 
leaves  are  alternate,  equally  pinnated,  terminated  with  ten- 
drils, leaflets  egg-shaped,  acute,  quite  ornamental  in  appear- 
ance. This  plant  is  perennial  in  duration,  grows  freely  by 
seed  and  cuttings,  and  is  rather  tender ;  it  should  not  be 
planted  in  the  open  ground  before  May,  and  will  run  about 
fifty  feet  in  the  season.  The  Cobea,  if  planted  by  the  side 
of  a  wall,  will  naturally  catch  by  its  tendrils ;  still  from  the 
nature  and  disposition  of  running  so  much,  in  wet  seasons 
if  not  fastened,  it  will  break  down  by  its  own  weight.  If 
this  plant  is  intended  for  pot  culture,  in  the  summer  it 
should  be  allowed  plenty  of  pot  room,  as  the  roots  require 
it,  and  the  soil  should  be  a  rich  sandy  loam.  As  this  plant 
strikes  freely  from  cuttings  it  should  be  planted  in  the  open 
ground  in  summer,  and  in  September  take  cuttings,  which 
will  strike  quick  under  a  bell  glass;  they  can  then  be  potted 
off  and  kept  easily  in  a  pit  or  the  house.  The  culture  is 
easy,  the  plant  fine,  and  worthy  of  cultivation,  especially 
with  those  who  have  plenty  of  room,  affording  a  good  shade, 
besides  its  floral  beauty. 


CACTUS.  75 

CACTUS. 

(CACTI.) 

This  is  a  fine  succulent  variety  of  plants,  of  very  singu- 
lar appearance,  natives  of  Brazil,  and  is  found  on  the  arid 
plains  of  Mexico  and  other  parts,  particularly  in  sandy  and 
rocky  situations  ;  perennial  in  duration,  of  rather  tender  and 
delicate  nature,  though  of  easy  culture;  but  is,  strictly 
speaki-ng,  a  green-house  plant,  and  will  survive  our  winters 
in  the  parlor  if  not  allowed  to  freeze  or  watered  too  much. 
The  generality  of  the  Cacti  do  not  like  a  damp  situation 
in  the  winter,  therefore  not  calculated  for  pit  culture. 

There  is  now  in  cultivation  about  one  thousand  varieties 
beside  hybrids ;  the  flowers  of  some  appear  in  March,  are 
certainly  magnificent  but  not  fragrant;  still  their  beauty 
shows  to  great  advantage  when  kept  by  themselves  in  a 
green-house.  There  are  some  of  this  tribe  called  "  Night 
Blooming  Cereus,'  that  flower  at  night,  highly  odoriferous, 
but  their  flowers  last  only  one  night.  The  one  called 
Grandiflora  is  a  magnificent  plant,  a  native  of  South  Amer- 
ica ;  when  the  corolla  is  fully  expanded  in  the  evening  the 
beholder  is  greatly  surprised  with  the  size  of  the  floral  de- 
velopment, which  will  measure  about  twelve  inches  across 
the  color,  on  the  inner  side  of  the  calyx ;  is  a  beautiful 
clear  sulphur  yellow,  while  the  petals  are  a  virgin  white  ; 
the  stamens  not  easily  described,  for  it  appears  of  different 
colors  as  you  change  your  position  to  view  its  beauties. 
The  flower  is  not  only  beautiful  but  the  fragance  is  so 


76  A  GUIDE   TO  FLORICULTURE. 

great  as  almost  to  prevent  a  person  approaching  it  in  a  con- 
fined room. 

The  seed  pod  of  the  Cactus  resemble  in  size  and  shape  a 
large  red  gooseberry  when  ripe,  and  is  eatable ;  the  flavor 
is  between  the  strawberry  and  pine  apple.  The  seed  should 
be  rubbed  out  of  the  pod  when  dry  and  planted  in  sand, 
and  will  soon  make  their  appearance ;  when  of  sufficient 
size  pot  them,  but  withhold  water  from  them  for  several 
days.  The  soil  for  grown  plants  should  be  a  coarse  sandy 
loam,  and  the  plants  should  be  well  drained ;  from  August 
to  January  will  be  a  good  time  to  repot ;  during  that  time 
they  should  have  but  little  or  no  water,  much  will  depend 
on  the  situation  of  the  room  where  kept  The  Cactus  is 
easily  raised  from  cuttings  taken  off  in  the  spring,  but 
should  not  be  planted  for  several  days,  even  then  should 
not  be  watered  until  the  plant  begins  to  grow.  This  suc- 
culent plant  is  easily  grafted  by  cutting  a  slit  in  one  variety 
and  sticking  a  piece  of  another  in  the  place,  cut  like  a 
wedge ;  this  should  be  done  in  the  spring ;  and  there  will 
be  no  need  of  using  grafting  wax  as  the  graft  will  grow 
without  difficulty,  and  bloom  more  freely  than  when  on  its 
own  bottom.  There  is  a  large  variety  of  the  prickly  pear 
the  best  to  graft  on,  and  it  is  frequently  the  case  we  see 
four  varieties  grafted  on  the  same  stalk,  and  when  in  bloom 
the  contrast  of  colors  give  a  pleasing  appearance. 


CENTUREA.  77 


CENTUREA. 

This  a  large  family  of  plants,  natives  of  different  parts  of 
the  globe  ;  the  greater  part  are  considered  ornamental,  bear- 
ing flowers  from  June  to  October.  The  neatest  of  this  va- 
rety  is  the  Sweet  Sultan,  a  native  of  Persia.  Of  this  variety 
there  are  three,  white,  purple,  and  yellow,  growing  about 
eighteen  inches  high.  The  involucre  roundish,  smooth, 
scales  egg  shaped,  and  the  leaves  lyrate  and  toothed ;  will 
grow  in  any  garden  soil,  but  thrive  best  in  a  sandy  loam. 


CHINA   ASTERS. 

(ASTER  CHTNENSIS.) 

44 How  lovely!  how  commanding!  but  through  Heaven 
In  every  breast  hath  sown  their  early  seeds 
Of  love  and  admiration ;  yet  in  vain, 
Without  fair  culture's  kind  parental  aid, 
Without  enlivening  suns  and  genial  showers, 
And  shelter  from  the  blast ;  in  vain  we  hope 
The  tender  plant  should  rear  its  blooming  head, 
Or  yield  the  harvest  promised  in  its  spring, 
Nor  yet  will  every  soil  with  equal  stores 
Repay  the  tiller's  labor." 

This  well  known  variety  of  Asters  has  been  cultivated  a 
long  time,  and  its  incomparable  beauty  has  established  it  as 


78  A   GUIDE   TO    FLORICULTURE. 

one  of  the  most  desirable  annuals  we  have  in  cultivation. 
The  German  florists  have  paid  more  attention  to  this  tribe 
of  Asters  than  the  English,  the  former  being-  more  assidu- 
ous to  its  real  merit,  and  established  a  name,  "  German  As- 
ter "  that  will  be  at  the  head  of  annuals  to  time  immemorial. 
The  improvement  is  not  only  in  size,  but  we  see  them  beau- 
tifully quilled  and  more  splendid  than  the  original  China 
Aster,  making  them  almost  a  distinct  species,  and  in  all 
about  thirty  varieties. 

"  All  its  hues, 

From  the  rich  sunset  to  the  rising  sun, 
Their  magical  variety  diffuse." 

I  should  suppose,  out  of  the  number  in  the  English  cata- 
logues, there  may  be  about  sixteen  distinct  "colors  selected ; 
for  when  so  many  are  advertised  it  must  necessarily  occur 
that  the  similitude  in  some  must  be  great,  for  unless  one  is 
a  judge  of  colors  the  difference  could  not  be  perceptible. 
This  Aster  flowers  in  August  and  September,  and  in  favora- 
ble weather  until  October,  when  the  embellishment  of  their 
beauty  and  regularity  of  form  is  not  to  be  surpassed  by  any 
annual  in  cultivation.  The  leaves  are  ovate,  coarsely 
toothed,  stalked,  the  cauline  leaves  are  sessile,  cuncate  at  the 
base ;  the  stem  is  bifid  and  branching,  with  a  single  head ; 
the  flowers  various  and  quilled,  giving  them  a  gorgeous 
display  that  approximates  to  perfection,  making  them  appear 
to  the  eye  all  that  is  magnificent.  There  are  no  encomiums 
my  poor  ability  could  pay  but  what  would  appear  insignifi- 
cant to  their  deserved  merit 

To  cultivate  this  flower,  if  you  wish  for  early  ones,  the 
seed  should  be  sown  in  a  pan  of  light  soil,  and  be  placed  in 


CHINA   ASTERS.  79 

a  hot-bed  in  the  month  of  March,  and  when  sufficiently 
large  transplant  into  two  inch  pots  and  return  them  to  the 
hot-bed  to  be  re-established,  and  these  plants  can  be  either 
transplanted,  without  disturbing  the  roots,  into  the  open 
ground,  or  if  intended  to  be  flowered  in  pots  you  must  con- 
tinue to  repot  from  time  to  time,  as  the  roots  fill  them,  un- 
til you  come  to  five  inch  pots,  the  one  intended  to  flower  in. 
For  a  second  crop  you  must  sow  the  seeds  in  the  open  ground 
in  April,  and  transplant  them  into  a  bed  prepared  for  their 
reception.  It  would  be  advisable  to  make  the  following 
compost,  if  you  wish  extra  flowers,  but  will  grow  in  almost 
any  soil;  one  bushel  of  good  garden  soil,  one  peck  leaf 
mould,  half  peck  old  manure,  three  quarts  sand.  These 
ingredients  should  be  well  incorporated  and  laid  in  a  heap 
for  some  time  prior  to  using  it.  You  can  either  put  this 
compound  in  trenches  in  the  garden,  or  in  flower  pots,  and 
great  attention  is  required  to  keep  this  plant  well  watered 
in  dry  weather. 


CRAPE  MYRTLE. 

(LAGEE.STRCEMIA  INDICA.) 

This  is  a  fine  half  hardy  favorite  shrub,  a  native  of  the 
East  Indies,  requiring  little  or  no  trouble,  will  grow  twenty 
feet  high  in  the  Southern  States,  and  will  stand  out  all  the 
winter  if  protected ;  is  readily  propagated  from  -cuttings 
planted  in  the  ground  in  spring  in  a  shady  situation,  and 


A  GUIDE  TO  FLORICULTURE. 

kept  moist.  This  shrub  is  cultivated  in  the  South,  in  the 
open  ground,  and  will  grow  in  any  garden  soil,  and  flower 
to  great  perfection  through  July  and  August,  bearing  a 
bright  pink  flower  of  a  singular  and  pleasing  form,  of  a  light 
texture,  much  like  a  piece  of  crape,  hence  the  name  "  Crape 
Myrtle."  With  those  who  have  not  the  means  of  protecting 
this  plant  in  the  open  ground,  they  can  pot  them  in  the  fall 
and  place  them  in  the  cellar^  being  deciduous  do  not  feel 
the  removal.  If  cultivated  in  a  pot, the  soil  should  be  a 
rich  loam,  and  must  be  potted  and  pruned  every  spring. 


CANTERBURY   BELI. 

(CAMPANULA  MEDIUM.) 

"  Blue  Bell !  how  gaily  art  thou  drest, 

How  sweet  and  trim  art  thou,  sweet  flower ; 
How  silky  in  thy  azure  vest, 

How  fresh  to  flaunt  at  morning's  hour." 

Of  this  variety  of  herbaceous  and  deciduous  biennial 
plants  there  are  two  varieties  of  single  flowers  and  two  dou- 
ble, blue  and  white,  fine  ornamental  border  plants.  The 
stem  is  simple,  diverging ;  the  leaves  lanceolate  and  serrat- 
ed, sessiles  viny,  peduncles  axillary,  three  flowered  and  ter- 
minal, grows  about  two  feet  high,  the  flowers  bell  shaped ; 
the  blue  is  azure,  rich  in  color ;  the  white  extremely  pure 
and  chaste.  All  the  varieties  have  been  great  favorites 
from  the  time  first  imported  from  Germany  to  the  present 


CANTERBURY  BELL.  81 

time.  This  plant  will  grow  in  any  common  garden  soil ; 
the  seed  should  be  sown  in  April,  and  be  transplanted  either 
when  small  or  in  September,  to  where  intended  to  flower, 
and  will  withstand  the  rigor  of  the  winter  without  injury, 
and  in  June  and  July  will  exhibit  their  beautiful  flowers. 
This  plant  will  do  well  if  cultivated  in  a  pot,  and  show  to 
great  advantage  in  the  parlor. 


CROWN   IMPERIAL. 

(FRITILLARIA  IMPERIALIS.) 

"  Meantime,  the  grandeur  of  thy  lofty  dome, 

-  For  splendor  seizes  on  the  ravished  eye 
New  beauties  rise,  with  each  revolving  Spring  find 
New  plants  to  quicken,  and  new  groves  to  green." 

This  is  a  bulbous  rooted  plant  of  a  majestic  appearance, 
bearing  large  flowers  in  March  and  April,  throwing  up  a 
stem  two  feet  high,  naked  below ;  the  leaves  entire,  with  a 
whorl  of  flowers  near  the  top.  This  is  one  of  the  early 
flowers  commissioned  to  grace  the  appearance  of  the  flower 
garden  early  in  the  spring ;  embellishments  like  these  are 
truly  acceptable.  There  are  several  varieties  graceful  and 
majestic  in  appearance,  serving  to  heighten  our  sanguine 
expectations  at  the  approach  of  spring.  The  most  common 
is  the  red ;  the  yellow  most  showy,  exhibiting  its  beautiful 
corollas  at  a  distance,  creating  our  applause  by  its  embel- 
lishment and  pomp.  The  common  variety  has  but  one 


82  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

whorl  of  flowers  near  the  top,  forming-  a  crown ;  hence  the 
name  of  the  flower.  We  have  the  crown  on  crown  which 
consists  of  two  whorls  of  flowers,  and  crown  on  that,  con- 
sisting of  three  whorls  of  flowers  ;  the  latter  are  scarce  and 
dear.  In  making  a  selection  get  the  red  and  yellow  and 
you  will  have  distinct  varieties ;  not  so  with  many  with 
names,  for  in  some  will  be  hut  a  shade  in  color,  and  that 
barely  perceptible ;  or  may  "be  some  difference  in  habit  of 
no  moment  in  the  common  course  of  cultivation.  This 
flower,  until  of  late,  has  been  called  "  Crown  Imperial,"  but 
is  known  now  as  Fritillaria  Imperialis.  This  plant  is  an 
old  and  acknowledged  favorite,  was  introduced  into  Eng- 
land before  the  time  of  Shakspeaie,  as  the  following  lines 
will  show,  which  I  extract  from  his  Winters  Tale: — 

"  Bold  oxlip,  and 

The  CROWN  IMPERIAL;  lillies  of  all  kinds, 
The  fleur-de-luce  being  one." 

No  doubt  he  mentioned  this  flower,  being  influenced  by 
its  conscious  beauty  in  enlivening  the  prospect  of  our  spring. 
We  are  indebted  to  Germany  for  this  splendid  acquisition 
to  our  flower  garden,  which  affords  a  secret  satisfaction  on 
beholding  its  development  at  a  season  when  the  garden  is 
nearly  deficient  of  floral  beauties.  / 

This  plant  is  easily  propagated  by  offsets,  and  will  grow 
in  any  common  garden  soil.  The  best  time  to  remove  the 
bulbs  is  when  the  stem  dies  down  in  June,  or  they  may  be 
allowed  to  remain  in  the  ground  for  two  or  three  years,  but 
is  best  taken  up  every  season  and  packed  away  until  Octo- 
ber. If  allowed  to  remain  they  will  deteriorate  the  soil, 
which  ought  to  be  avoided  in  a  small  garden.  If  these 


ROWN   IMPERIAL.  83 

bulbs  are  planted  in  the  border  they  will  ripen  in  time  to 
plant  the  Dahlia  in  the  same  place  without  inconvenience; 
by  this  plan  you  will  secure  a  second  crop  of  flowers  on  the 
same  ground  in  the  same  season,  which  is  an  advantage  in 
a  small  garden.  If  this  plant  be  increased  by  seed,  they 
should  be  sown  in  the  open  ground  in  September.,  and 
should  not  be  removed  until  the  third  year,  and  then  be 
treated  the  same  as  old  bulbs. 


CALCEOLARIA. 

•'••'•" 

"  Yet  no  deleterious  scent  it  yields; 
To  cheer  the  garden  or  the  field, 
Vainly  in  gaudy  colors  drest ; 

'Tis  rather  gazed  on  than  caressed.' 

This  florist  flower  was  first  introduced  into  France  by 
one  Louis  Fenillie,  a  botanist,  in  1414.  In  England  this 
plant  passed  under  the  name  of  "  Ladies  Slipper,"  or  "Slip- 
perwort;"  their  primitive  color  is  a  yellow,  but  in  1829  the 
purple  was  introduced  from  Chili,  in  South  America,  where 
that  plant  abounds,  and  is  indigenous  to  some  parts  of  this 
country.  Both  the  shrubby  and  herbaceous  varieties  are 
greatly  admired.  From  the  old  varieties  many  new  hy- 
brids have  been  added  to  the  collection,  presenting  rich  vel- 
vety corollas,  quite  enchanting;  and  their  effect  in  the 
green-house  is  beyond  description.  This  species  of  plants 
are  very  delicate,  and  require  much  care  and  attention;  al- 
though beautiful  in  appearance  these  plants  will  never  be 


84  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

common,  for  the  care  and  delicacy  required  in  their  culture 
will  be  a  preventive.  I  would  not  recommend  them  to 
amateurs  on  that  account.  I  am  induced  to  do  this  from  a 
conviction  that  the  disappointment  so  often  met  with  in  their 
culture  will  serve  to  mar  the  hope  or  pleasure,  than  create 
a  taste  for  other  flowers ;  perseverance  is  a  great  thing,  and 
and  ought  to  be  cherished,  but  difficulty  and  disappointment 
will  ever  be  a  drawback  to  this  species  of  plants. 

The  Calceolaria  is  propagated  by  seeds,  cuttings,  and  di- 
vision of  the  roots.  The  seeds  are  very  small,  and  should 
never  be  covered  nor  watered  with  the  water  pot,  the  syr- 
inge being  preferable,  which  can  be  played  on  the  pan  of 
seeds  like  a  gentle  shower ;  the  pan  should  be  kept  in  a 
bark  bed,  the  heat  being  so  gentle  and  steady  that  every 
seed  will  germinate.  When  the  seedlings  are  of  sufficient 
size  transplant  them  into  small  pots.  The  soil  most  suita- 
ble is  a  maiden  soil,  with  one  sixth  part  sharp  sand.  By 
division  of  the  roots,  July  is  the  best  time  ;  in  the  division 
let  each  crown  be  furnished  with  root  fibres  sufficient  to 
imbibe  a  proper  nourishment.  To  increase  by  cuttings,  July 
is  also  the  best  time  for  the  shrubby  kinds,  and  will  root 
freely  in  a  bark  bed  well  shaded,  and  moderately  watered ; 
or  may  be  struck  under  a  bell  glass.  The  Calceolaria, 
generally  speaking,  is  very  delicate  and  ought  to  be  shaded 
from  the  intense  heat  of  the  sun  in  the  summer,  but  in  the 
winter  season  will  require  it  in  the  morning.  There  is  a 
discriminating  judgment  necessary  in  iis  culture,  and  par- 
ticularly in  watering,  for  too  much  is  equally  as  detrimen- 
tal as  the  want  of  that  fluid.  When  this  plant  is  infested 
with  the  green  fly  it  must  be  fumigated  with  tobacco,  and 
the  next  day  syringed  well  all  over,  or  your  plant  will  die. 


CHINESE   CHRYSANTHEMUM.  .          85 

CHINESE    CHRYSANTHEMUM. 

(CHRYSANTHEMUM  INDICUM.) 

"  For  him  the  spring 

Distils  her  dews,  and  from  the  silken  gem 
Its  lucid  leaves  unfold  —  for  him,  the  hand 
Of  autumn  tinges  every  fertile  branch 
With  blooming  gold,  and  blushes  from  her  wings ; 
And  still  new  beauties  meet  his  lonely  walk, 
And  loves  unfelt  attract  him." 

This  is  one  of  our  late  and  most  desirable  fall  flowers ; 
desirable  because  it  expands  its  beautiful  flowers  at  a  time 
when  others  cease  to  cheer  us,  thus  shedding  an  agreeable- 
ness  around  our  rooms,  enlivening  the  monotony  of  the 
gloomy  months  of  November  and  December,  making  our 
existence  appear  cheerful  despite  of 

"  Stern  winter,  clad  in  frost  and  snow." 

This  plant  is  indigenous  to  Cochin-China,  and  cultivated 
in  the  gardens  in  Japan.  The  first  account  of  its  introduc- 
tion was  into  France  in  the  year  1754,  and  the  following 
year  it  was  imported  into  England ;  even  these  were  but 
indifferent  flowers,  compared  with  those  in  cultivation  now. 
Such  was  the  sensation  created  by  these  flowers,  that  no 
expense  was  spared  to  improve  the  quality  and  quantity. 
The  Chinese  had  about  fifty  kinds  which  were  cultivated 
by  them  to  great  perfection ;  large  flowers  being  their  prin- 
cipal aim,  and  they  never  permitted  more  than  one  flower 
to  grow  on  a  stem.  Some  of  the  Chinese  fastened  their 


86  A   fiUIDE    TO   FLORICULTURE. 

stems  with  a  wire,  in  as  many  different  forms  as  the  nature 
of  the  plants  would  allow,  and  a  stranger  at  a  little  distance 
could  not  account  for  their  symmetry  being  kept  in  such  a 
position.  In  1808  Sir  Abraham  Hume  and  others  intro- 
duced eight  new  varieties  of  the  finer  quality.  When  we 
consider  how  badly  this"  plant  bears  packing,  we  need  not 
wonder  at  their  not  being  introduced  faster  into  Europe 
than  they  were.  There  has  been  a  great  change  in  this 
fall  beauty  of  late  years ;  we  are  no  more  dependent  on 
China  for  new  varieties,  as  they  are  brought  to  seed  in 
France,  the  Isle  of  Jersey  in  the  British  Channel,  and  in  this 
country.  From  this  circumstance  new  varieties  are  raised 
every  season.  It  is  with  regret  that  the  quantity  has  elicited 
more  enthusiasm  than  the  quality ;  therefore  it  is  most  de- 
sirable for  persons  to  purchase  when  in  flower,  unless  you 
take  varieties  that  have  proved  good  flowerers. 

The  Chrysanthemum  is  divided  into  the  following  clas- 
ses:—  Ranunculus  flowered,  13  varieties ;  in-curving  Ra- 
nunculus, flowered  6  varieties  ;  China  Aster  flowered,  6 
varieties  ;  Marigold  flowered,  7  varieties ;  Tassel  flowered, 
11  varieties,  and  half  double  Tassel  flowered,  5  varieties. 
There  are  48  varieties  described  in  the  Horticultural  Trans- 
actions in  England,  and  additional  varieties  arranged  in 
the  Gardener's  Magazine.  I  do  not  know  a  flower  that  is 
more  calculated  to  please  any  person  that  has  the  least  taste 
for  flowers  than  this,  for  we  find  it  in  almost  every  family, 
and  is  the  poor  as  well  the  rich  man's  flower.  Being  easi- 
ly cultivated  makes  it  rather  common,  but  does  not  impair 
its  beauty,  or,  like  most  common  flowers,  lessen  its  value  in 
the  mind  of  the  public,  if  it  does  the  price.  From  the  num- 
ber cf  fine  plants  now  in  cultivation,  a  person  can  be  fur- 


CHINESE    CHRYSANTHEMUM.  87 

nished  with  first  rate  varieties  at  a  moderate  price.  I  notice 
most  of  those  plants  cultivated  five  years  since  are  thrown 
away  to  make  room  for  better  ones.  Many  who  possess 
these  plants,  I  discover,  do  not  understand  their  culture  to 
advantage,  and  yet  no  plant  is  more  simple.  Many  will 
endeavor  to  produce  the  most  flowers  by  planting  more  than 
one  in  a  pot.  and  by  this  means  defeat  the  object 

The  best  plan  is,  at  the  end  of  April  to  take  cuttings  from 
the  tops,  three  or  four  inches  long,  and  plant  them  in  two 
inch  pots,  one  in  each,  and  place  them  in  a  frame  and  cover 
them  with  glass,  or  in  a  shady  place,  and  water  them  free- 
ly ;  they  will  soon  strike  root,  and  when  the  pot  is  filled 
with  roots  repot  them  into  the  next  size ;  repeat  this  until 
the  pots  are  six  inches,  which  will  be  large  enough  to  flow- 
er in.  In  July  pinch  off  the  top ;  this  will  cause  them  to 
put  out  lateral  shoots,  and  in  August  trim  off  all  the  laterals 
but  three,  which  will  be  sufficient  for  one  pot,  as  these  will 
also  put  out  laterals  which  should  be  permitted  to  grow. 
The  proper  soil  to  raise  Chrysanthemums  in  is  one  half  old 
manure,  one  half  loam,  with  a  portion  of  sand,  the  quantity 
will  depend  on  whether  your  loam  contains  sand.  If  you 
plant  them  in  open  ground  do  not  take  them  up  until  the 
buds  are  well  formed,  and  in  damp  weather.  Planting  in 
beds  is  a  good  plan,  and  will  require  no  attention  being  paid 
them  all  the  summer,  more  than  topping  and  trimming. 
You  must  not  let  them  remain  in  the  ground  for  the  early 
frost  to  injure  their  buds.  Fine  dwarf  plants  are  obtained 
•by  pegging  them  down  at  a  joint  in  July ;  they  will  soon 
strike  root,  and  be  fit  to  pot  in  the  middle  of  September,  and 
then  brought  into  the  house.  Chrysanthemums,  if  planted 
too  close,  whether  in  the  ground  or  pots,  will  drop  their 


88  A  GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

leaves ;  or  if  brought  into  the  house  too  early  the  effect  will 
be  the  same ;  therefore  keep  them  out  of  doors  as  long  as 
the  frost  keeps  off,  and  you  will  find  your  labor  well  paid 
by  a  splendid  display  of  flowers. 

This  plant  is  a  greedy  one,  and  requires  a  deal  of  water, 
and  such  is  the  nature  of  the  plant  that  you  may  water  the 
foliage  in  the  middle  of  summer  when  the  sun  is  shining 
and  it  will  appear  to  thrive  the  better,  which  is  contrary  to 
the  nature  of  other  plants.  Many  will  water  this  plant 
with  liquid  manure,  but  I  would  not  advise  it  unless  by 
a  person  of  some  experience,  as  the  plants  may  be  burnt 
before  you  are  aware  of  its  tendency.  I  once  saw  a  valua- 
ble collection  destroyed  this  way,  which  makes  me  add  this 
caution.  The  Chrysanthemum  is  sometimes  propagated 
by  dividing  the  roots  ;  this  should  be  done  in  June,  but  the 
plants  raised  this  way  are  never  as  good  as  those  by  cut- 
tings, nor  their  flowers  as  fine. 


CROCUS. 

This  is  a  bulbous  rooted  plant,  perfectly  hardy,  and  of 
easy  culture.  This  family  is  composed  of  a  great  variety  of 
sorts  and  colors,  all  natives  of  Europe.  Their  complication 
of  colors  in  the  early  spring  gives  them  a  most  agreeable 
and  imposing  appearance,  particularly  as  it  is  one  of  the 
first  flowers ;  is  easily  propagated  by  offsets  or  seeds,  and 
will  grow  in  any  garden  soil  without  difficulty. 

To  propagate  from  seed  it  is  important  to  sow  them  as 


CROCUS.  89 

soon  as  ripe,  in  a  pan  or  box,  broadcast ;  the  seeds  should 
be  lightly  covered  and  sprinkled  with  water  and  placed  in 
the  garden  alongside  of  the  wall,  giving  them  a  southern 
aspect,  and  keeping  them  moist  until  late  in  the  fall  when 
the  pan  or  box  should  be  removed  into  a  pit  until  the  spring. 
When  the  leaves  appear,  move  them  into  the  garden,  pro- 
tecting them  from  heavy  rains  and  sudden  frost.  In  May, 
when  the  leaves  die  down,  take  off  a  little  of  the  surface 
soil  and  put  fresh  in  its  place.  The  third  year  take  them 
up  and  treat  them  the  same  as  full  grown  corms ;  the  next 
year  you  may  expect  them  to  flower.  The  Crocus  is  gen- 
erally increased  by  offsets,  which  it  will  produce  abundant- 
ly, and  in  most  cases  will  flower  the  following  season. 
The  object  in  raising  from  seed  is  to  produce  new  varieties, 
but  the  operation  is  somewhat  tedious,  and  not  advisable,  as 
there  are  as  many  varieties  now  in  cultivation  as  will  satis- 
fy any  reasonable  person,  for  there  are  now  in  cultivation 
one  hundred  and  twenty  with  names.  The  whole  variety, 
one  of  each,  can  be  purchased  in  England  for  one  dollar 
and  fifty  cents. 

The  Crocus  does  very  well  planted  between  the  rows  of 
Tulips,  or  in  clumps  in  the  border,  diversifying  the  colors 
so  as  to  make  a  contrast.  The  bulbs  or  corms  should  be 
dibbled  in  about  two  inches  deep,  and  may  be  allowed  to 
remain  in  the  ground  three  years,  and  does  well  if  the  sea- 
son be  dry,  if  rainy  will  be  apt  to  rot.  I  have  always  found 
the  best  and  safest  plan  was  to  take  them  up  dry,  and  pack 
them  in  sand  until  October,  aud  then  be  planted  the  same 
time  as  other  bulbs.  It  is  frequently  the  case  that  many 
bulbs  are  brought  to  this  country  from  Holland,  and  kept 
for  sale  at  seed  stores  until  spring-:  persons  should  be  cau- 
8 


90  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

tious  in  purchasing-  them  after  November,  although  their 
appearance  is  good ;  if  planted  after  that  time  they  will,  in 
most  cases,  rot,  as  the  ground  is  then  too  cold  to  assist  them 
in  striking  root ;  that  being  the  case,  they  will  either  rot  or 
flower  weakly  and  die  at  last ;  it  is  like  a  man  that  has 
been  so  long  without  food  that  nature  has  exhausted  and 
injured  the  vital  part,  nothing  could  restore  that  animation 
necessary  to  create  or  reinstate  again  the  proper  function  to 
restore  life.  Bulbs  of  every  description,  if  sold  after  the 
proper  season  for  planting,  are  dear  at  any  price,  therefore 
purchase  them  at  a  proper  season  if  you  have  to  pay  a 
higher  price ;  still  you  will  find  them  cheapest  in  the  end. 


CANDYTUFT. 

(IBERIS   AMARA.) 

This  annual  is  an  ornamental  herbaceous  plant,  found 
growing  in  the  chalky  fields  in  England ;  flowers  in  gene- 
ral during  the  months  of  June  and  July ;  by  planting  the 
seeds  at  different  periods  they  can  be  brought  to  flower  dur- 
ing the  whole  summer.  The  leaves  of  this  pretty  orna- 
mental border  flower  are  lanceolate,  acute,  variable  in  the 
toothing.  The  flowers  forming  a  head,  becoming  race- 
mous,  the  husk  being  well  formed,  will  drop  the  seeds,  if 
precaution  be  not  taken  before  all  the  flowers  expand  ;  thus 
making  it  absolutely  necessary  for  those  who  collect  seed 
for  sale  to  cut  the  stalk  before  two  thirds  of  the  flowers  have 


CANDYTUFT.  91 

expanded.     There  are  some  varieties  of  the  Candytuft,  na- 
tives of  Candia,  sweet  scented  and  very  desirable. 

This  plant  grows  best  in  a  rich  soil,  and  if  the  seeds  are 
sown  in  September,  the  plants,  with  a  light  protection,  will 
survive  the  winter,  flower  earlier  and  more  luxuriantly  than 
if  sown  in  the  spring.  Those  kept  through  the  winter  will 
sow  their  own  seeds  and  flower  in  the  fall,  thus  securing 
the  second  crop  of  flowers  in  one  season.  This  plant  is  a 
valuable  hardy  annual,  well  calculated  for  any  garden. 


CHINA   PRIMROSE. 

(PRIMULA  SINENSIS.) 

41  The  piercing  primrose,  like  sudden  gladness, 
Gleams  on  the  soul. — " 

This  is  a  very  desirable  perennial  evergreen,  of  late  intro- 
duction, flowering  from  January  to  May.  and  is  one  of  the 
first  plants  to  cheer  the  green-house  or  parlor,  making  it  one 
of  the  most  welcome  flowers  we  have,  possessing  much  merit 
as  a  showy  flower,  setting  aside  its  claim  as  an  early  one. 
There  is  a  double  variety  in  England,  highly  spoken  of, 
which  will  soon  find  its  way  into  this  country.  This  plant 
differs  widely  from  the  English  Primrose  in  color  as  well 
as  habit.  The  leaves  of  this  variety  are  pninate,  stem 
about  three  inches  long  and  hairy.  The  scape  about  five 
inches  with  a  truss  of  beautiful  pink  flowers  to  the  number 
of  twenty  or  thirty,  if  well  grown.  There  is  a  white  vari- 


92  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

ety  very  showy ;  both  are  well  suited  for  the  bouquet  with 
the  Camellia,  Pelargonium,  in  the  early  spring.  When 
this  plant  begins  to  flower,  it  should  be  placed  in  a  saucer 
of  water,  and  it  will  bloom  profusely  through  the  season, 
but  should  be  removed  as  soon  as  the  plant  begins  to  flower 
weakly. 

The  China  Primrose  is  increased  by  seed  and  by  cut- 
tings ;  if  by  seed  the  best  time  to  sow  them  is  as  soon  as 
ripe,  in  a  rich  soil,  and  when  three  or  four  leaves  are  formed 
they  should  be  potted  off  into  small  size  pots,  and  be  shifted 
as  they  increase  in  size.  To  increase  by  cuttings,  as  soon 
as  the  plants  have  done  flowering,  cut  each  stem  as  near  the 
pot  as  possible,  into  as  many  pieces  as  there  are  crowns, 
plant  them  in  a  light  rich  soil  in  pots  well  drained,  and 
place  them  in  the  shade ;  keep  them  moist,  and  each  will 
root  and  make  good  flowering  plants  in  the  spring.  In 
September  each  should  be  potted  into  five  inch  pots,  and  be 
removed  into  their  winter  quarters.  The  soil  best  suited  to 
this  plant  is  one  half  leaf  mould,  the  balance  sandy  loam 
and  old  manure  from  a  cucumber  frame.  This  plant  is 
tender  and  must  be  guarded  against  frost ;  the  trouble  at- 
tending it  is  but  little ;  it  is  a  most  profuse  bloomer,  and 
every  way  desirable  for  parlor  culture,  and  should  be  prized 
as  such. 


CHRYSANTHEMUM.  93 

,r^ 
CHRYSANTHEMUM. 

(ANNUAL.) 

Of  this  beautiful  variety  of  garden  annuals  there  are  three 
of  rather  prepossessing  appearance.  The  one  called  the 
"  Ox-Eye-Daisy "  throws  up  a  stem  three  feet  high.  The 
leaves  are  smooth  and  of  a  deep  green  color  ;  the  flowers 
solitary  and  terminate,  stem  branching,  generally  flowering 
from  May  to  August,  seeding  freely,  and  will  grow  in  any 
garden  soil ;  the  seeds  should  be  sown  in  April.  "  The 
Corn  Marigold"  is  another  variety  of  a  more  dwarf  nature 
than  the  other,  striated  and  branching.  The  leaves  are  al- 
ternate and  varying  in  shape ;  the  branches  terminate  with 
large  yellow  flowers.  Peduncles  upright,  calyx  convex, 
scales  ovate,  glaucous,  the  inner  ones  with  large  mem- 
branous edges.  This  plant  is  also  known  as  the  Golden 
Corn  Flower,  Yellow  Bottle,  <J-c.,  which  arises  from  its  beau- 
tiful golden  color  and  brilliancy  of  appearance  in  the  flower 
garden.  Then  we  have  the  Tricolor,  a  native  of  Morocco, 
which  also  grows  readily  from  seed  or  by  cuttings,  and  will 
flower  from  July  to  October. 

When  this  variety  was  first  introduced  into  Europe,  in 
1 796,  it  was  treated  as  a  tender  stove  plant,  but  like  the 
others  it  is  now  treated  as  a  half  hardy  annual,  and  may 
be  recommended  as  a  fine  garden  variety  of  flowering  plants 
of  easy  culture  in  any  garden  soil,  and  of  showy  appearance. 


94  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

CAMPANULA. 

(PERSICIFOLIA.) 

"  The  blue-bell  by  the  meadow  rill 

Is  not  more  fair  than  thou, 
With  thy  downcast  and  thoughtful  eye, 
Thy  pure  and  gentle  brow." 

- 

This  Campanula  is  a  valuable  appendage  to  the  flower 
garden  as  well  as  the  parlor,  and  is  well  known  as  the 
" Peach-Leaved  Sell/lower"  and  what  makes  it  more  desir- 
able is,  it  will  stand  out  of  doors,  if  in  the  ground,  all  the 
winter,  being  perfectly  hardy.  The  stem  grows  straight, 
about  eighteen  inches  high;  when  in  the  open  ground 
strong  plants  will  attain  two  feet.  This  plant  flowers  in  a 
thin  spike  of  one  and  two  together,  on  a  long  peduncle 
which  has  two  stipules  at  the  base.  The  corolla  large  and 
broad,  bell  shape,  deep  blue ;  the  segment  short  and  acu- 
minate. The  leaves  similar  to  the  peach,  only  more  ser- 
rated. This  perennial  is  a  native  of  Sweden,  and  has  been 
in  cultivation  in  Europe  ever  since  1596.  There  are  two 
other  varieties,  blue  and  white ;  the  latter  more  double  than 
the  former,  which  has  not  been  cultivated  over  sixty  years. 

These  plants  require  a  rich  sandy  loam,  and  are  increased 
by  dividing  the  roots  in  the  fall.  This  Campanula,  with 
good  treatment,  will  flower  nearly  all  the  summer,  and  if 
kept  in  the  shade  the  flowers  will  last  much  longer.  Every 
lady  should  be  furnished  with  this  plant,  it  being  ornamen- 
tal, of  easy  culture,  and  moreover,  being  evergreen,  their  ap- 
pearance is  always  interesting  in  the  parlor  as  well  as  the 
flower  garden. 


COLUMBINE.  95 

COLUMBINE. 

(AQUILEGIA.) 

"  Yes,  lovely  flower,  I  find  in  thee 

Wild  sweetness  which  no  words  express, 
And  charms  in  thy  simplicity, 
That  dwell    not  in  the  pride  of  dress." 

This  splendid  deciduous  herbaceous  plant  is  a  perennial, 
and  bears  flowers  of  innumerable  colors  from  May  to  July  ; 
it  is  a  native  of  this  country  and  Siberia.  Its  habit  is  ex- 
tremely graceful,  growing  about  two  feet  high,  throwing 
its  flowers  well  up  above  the  foliage,  which  is  covered 
with  a  viscid  down,  the  spurs  of  the  flowers  incurved,  giv- 
ing them  a  very  interesting  appearance.  This  plant,  from 
its  easy  culture,  has  established  a  merit  possessed  but  by 
few  border  flowers.  The  seeds  should  be  sown  as  soon  as 
ripe,  or  early  in  the  spring,  in  any  common  garden  soil,  and 
transplanted  in  September.  The  flowers  are  well  calcula- 
ted for  bouquets  in  their  season,  on  account  of  their  grace 
and  beauty.  This  plant  is  sometimes  propagated  by  divid- 
ing the  roots  in  the  spring,  which  often  kills  them,  a  plan 
not  advisable  with  a  good  flower.  The  Columbine  sports, 
and  therefore  produces,  a  great  variety  of  colors  ;  the  single 
variety  is  not  worth  garden  room ;  the  second  season  is 
considered  the  best  for  flowering,  being  more  abundant  than 
any  other  year.  When  these  plants  are  grown,  innumer- 
able seedlings  will  spring  up  from  the  scattered  seeds, 
which  should  be  transplanted  as  directed. 


96  A  GUIDE  TO   FLORICULTURE, 

CARDINAL   FLOWER. 

(LOBELIA  CARDINALIS.) 

11  Sweet  flower!  for  by  that  name  at  last, 
When  all  my  reveries  are  past, 
I  call  thee .» 

This  beautiful  perennial  is  a  native  of  this  country, 
growing  and  blooming  to  great  perfection  in  swampy  places 
in  Indiana  and  Ohio,  and  other  parts ;  it  attains  the  height  of 
two  to  three  feet,  bearing  a  spike  of  flowers  of  a  bright 
scarlet  in  the  month  of  July,  and  even  to  September.  Such 
is  the  brilliancy  of  the  colors,  that  the  eye  is  dazzled  with 
their  splendor  when  the  sun  shines  on  them.  It  is  surpris- 
ing that  this  plant,  a  native,  and  of  such  beautiful  magni- 
tude, should  not  be  more  noticed  than  it  is.  In  Europe  it 
is  grown  to  great  perfection  ;  it  is  easily  propagated  by 
seeds  or  cuttings  of  the  flower  stem  before  flowering,  and 
by  suckers  at  the  root  in  the  fall.  Seeds  should  be  sown 
in  the  fall  or  early  in  the  spring,  in  a  pan  or  box  ;  the  seed 
should  never  be  covered  with  the  soil,  and  the  soil  should 
be  kept  damp,  and  a  rich  loam  is  necessary  to  grow  good 
plants.  When  the  plants  appear  in  the  spring  they  should 
be  kept  in  the  shade  to  gain  strength;  when  of  sufficient 
size,  which  will  be  in  May,  the  plants  should  be  potted  off 
To  propagate  by  cuttings,  it  should  be  done  before  the 
flowers  expand,  by  taking  the  flower  stems  and  cut  them 
into  suitable  lengths,  say  two  or  three  joints,  stick  them 
into  a  pan,  and  cover  them  with  a  bell  glass,  and  admit  air 


CARDINAL   FLOWER.  97 

as  the  cuttings  begin  to  grow.  To  divide  the  roots  or  suck- 
ers, the  fall  is  the  best  time ;  protect  them  through  the 
winter  in  a  pit.  This  plant  is  naturally  hardy,  but  protec- 
tion is  best  for  those  in  pots.  In  the  latter  part  of  March, 
bring  them  forward  and  place  them  in  a  saucer  of  water ; 
being  a  swamp  plant  they  should  be  kept  as  near  its  natu- 
ral state  as  possible,  guarding  them  against  the  spring  frost, 
and  you  will  be  rewarded  with  one  of  the  finest  displays  of 
flowers  in  cultivation.  This  fine  flowering  plant,  if  the  pro- 
duction of  some  foreign  country,  would  be  one  of  our  lead- 
ing pot  plants  ;  being  a  native,  the  florists  of  this  country 
do  not  appreciate  its  merits. 


CARNATION. 

(DIANTHUS  CARYOPHYLLAS.) 

"  E'en  then  she  seomed  a  lovely  flower, 

Though  fragile  was  the  stem; 
She  stands  in  beauty's  garden  now, 
Its  proudest  diadem." 

The  Carnation  is  an  old  established  perennial  of  high 
reputation ;  it  is  an  evergreen  herbaceous  plant,  flowering 
in  June  and  July ;  stem  branching,  flowers  solitary,  the 
leaves  channelled  and  linear,  possessing  all  the  attributes 
necessary  for  a  florist's  flower,  at  the  head  of  which  it  stands 
pre-eminent.  This  flower  was  long  supposed  to  be  in- 
digenous to  England,  but  of  late  its  parentage  is  attrib- 

9 


08  A   GUIDE   TO    FLORICULTURE. 

uted  to  Germany ;  although  its  having  been  found  in  a  wild 
state  in  some  parts  of  England,  is  not  sufficient  proof, 
as  the  seed  may  have  been  dropped  by  accident.  There 
are  more  grounds  to  suppose  at  this  date  that  little  is  known 
of  its  wild  state,  for  the  first  notice  to  be  traced  of  this 
flower  is  that  it  was  imported  from  Poland  in  1597;  even 
in  that  country  it  cannot  be  traced ;  Germany  being  the 
nursery  bed  of  so  many  beautiful  flowers,  I  have  no  doubt 
that  country  is  the  origin  of  it,  from  whence  it  found  its 
way  to  Poland,  from  thence  to  England.  From  the  first 
introduction,  this  plant  established  an  unrivalled  merit  as  a 
first  class  flower,  and  may  be  considered  one  of  the  great- 
est gifts  for  the  flower  garden,  notwithstanding  there  are 
many  productions  which  nature  has  created  for  the  enjoy- 
ment of  mankind  ;  their  fragrance  is  a  gratification  unsur- 
passed, to  our  senses ;  the  graceful  appearance  of  the  flow- 
ers is  all  that  is  dignified,  giving  unlimited  satisfaction  to 
the  eye  in  their  beautiful  arrangement  of  colors  which  are 
so  diversified  in  their  floral  greatness.  There  are  features 
in  this  flower  not  enumerated  in  many  others,  whether  we 
consider  it  a  garden  plant  that  is  in  the  bed  or  border,  or 
even  the  parlor,  during  the  blooming  season,  from  its  long 
duration  in  developing,  and  after  the  flower  be  fully  ex- 
panded, that  impresses  the  beholder  with  a  sense  of  its 
magnitude.  Yes!  commissioned,  as  this  flower  is,  to  charm 
the  amateur  with  fragrance,  grace,  beauty,  and  all  the  attri- 
butes appertaining  to  the  choicest  flower  in  cultivation,  it 
matters  not  so  much  whether  this  country  or  that  has  the 
honor  of  its  patronage,  the  florist  must  feel  grateful,  on  re- 
flection, that  we  really  possess  it.  To  propagate  this  beau- 
tiful perennial  from  seed,  is  by  no  means  a  pleasing  task ; 


CARNATION.  99 

it  is  filled  with  disappointment ;  even  when  you  procure  the 
best  seed  from  choice  flowers,  the  probability  is  that  you 
will  get  single  flowers,  or,  if  double,  they  may  not  prove  bet- 
ter than  a  common  pink,  for  we  find  that  men  who  follow 
raising  Carnations  for  sale  as  a  living,  that  annually  save  and 
sow  their  own  seed,  completely  fail.  Take  twelve  of  the  most 
successful  of  these  gardeners,  and  you  will  find  on  an  aver- 
age that  they  have  not  raised  six  good  flowers  during  their 
lives.  With  this  fact  before  a  person's  eyes,  it  is  futile  for 
amateurs  to  throw  away  so  much  time  and  labor,  besides 
expense,  on  such  uncertainty,  when  all  the  varieties  so  de- 
sirable can  be  purchased,  taking  a  choice  of  the  labors  of 
hundreds  of  gardeners  for  about  two  hundred  and  fifty 
years.  When  you  have  good  flowers,  the  best  way  is  to 
increase  your  stock  by  layering,  just  as  the  flowers  are  on 
the  wane  in  July,  and  so  continue  through  the  month  of 
August,  but  the  sooner  the  better.  The  operation  is  per- 
formed in  the  following  way: — the  night  before,  or  twenty- 
four  hours  previous,  water  your  plants  copiously,  by  this 
means  your  plants  will  be  more  pliable  and  bend  to  the 
operation  with  greater  facility,  if  not,  your  plants  will  be 
brit*le,  and  snap  off]  frustrating  your  object.  The  soil, 
where  your  plants  are  to  be  layered,  should  be  light  and 
rich,  on  the  surface  in  particular ;  then  get  some  sticks  with 
a  crook  at  one  end,  and  the  other  sharp,  to  pin  the  part 
firmly  Co  the  ground  ;  when  this  is  done,  take  a  sharp  pen- 
knife aid  make  a  slit  in  the  lower  part  of  the  branch  next 
to  the  soil,  commencing  in  the  centre  of  a  joint,  cutting 
up  the  middle  near  to  the  next  joint,  then  take  the  peg  and 
fasten  fit  to  the  ground,  leaving  the  slit  open,  bringing  the 
top  of  the  branch  as  near  upright  as  you  can  conveniently 


100  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

without  breaking  it  off,  then  cover  the  plant  about  half  an 
inch,  continue  in  this  way  until  you  have  layered  as  much 
of  the  plant  as  desired.  In  layering  any  plant  it  is  best  only 
to  cover  the  joint,  by  this  means  the  sun  and  air  having 
their  influence  on  them,  will  make  them  throw  out  root 
fibres  more  readily ;  this  is  caused  by  the  sap  running  up 
the  shoot,  and  when  descending,  not  being  able  to  return 
to  the  roots,  will  naturally  cause  the  slit  to  form  fresh  root 
at  the  joint  cut  for  that  operation.  In  layering  the  Carna- 
tion it  is  best  to  leave  one  branch  not  layered,  for  sometimes 
heavy  and  continued  rains  will  rot  them  off,  and  you  would 
lose  your  plants.  You  will  find  it  best  to  make  provision 
against  extremes  in  the  weather.  After  your  plants  are  all 
layered,  give  them  a  gentle  watering  to  settle  the  earth  around 
them.  In  this  country  it  is  necessary  to  give  them  a  little 
watering  morning  and  evening,  provided  the  weather  is  dry 
and  warm.  In  about  four  or  five  weeks  examine  your  layers, 
and  if  well  rooted,  they  maybe  taken  off  and  planted  in  the 
open  ground  to  gain  strength,  until  the  latter  part  of  Sep- 
tember, and  then  pot  them  off,  one  into  a  three  inch  pot  or 
two  plants  into  a  four  inch  one ;  the  latter  will  take  up  less 
room  for  the  winter.  It  is  frequently  the  case  in  layering 
the  Carnation  that  some  of  the  branches  will  snap  off,  not- 
withstanding all  the  precaution  used,  when  it  will  be 
necessary  to  pipe  them,  which  is  done  in  the  following 
way : — get  a  large  pan  or  box  twelve  inches  across,  and  fill 
it  with  a  rich  soil,  mixed  with  one  third  sand,  then  take 
your  pieces  to  be  piped  and  cut  them  clean  off  at  the  third 
joint,  and  throw  them  into  a  basin  of  cold  water  for  about 
ten  minutes,  then  water  the  soil  to  settle  it  well,  then  take 
a  bell  glass  and  mark  its  size  on  the  soil ;  this  being  done 


CARNATION.  101 

take  the  pipings  and  stick  them  into  the  soil  within  the 
mark  of  the  glass;  the  pipings  will  readily  enter  with- 
out danger  of  breaking,  for  being  immersed  in  water 
gives  them  firmness ;  when  all  are  in,  give  them  a  gentle 
watering  to  settle  the  soil  around  them ;  when  the  grass  of 
the  piping  is  dry,  put  on  the  bell  glass  to  exclude  the  air, 
and  place  them  in  the  shade.  It  will  be  necessary  to  take 
off  the  glass  occasionally  to  water  them;  the  glass  should 
never  be  replaced  while  the  plants  are  wet.  When  you 
perceive  the  plants  begin  to  grow,  you  must  begin  to  ad- 
mit air ;  in  about  six  weeks,  the  pipings,  under  favorable 
circumstances,  will  be  ready  to  transplant,  and  may  be 
treated  the  same  as  full  grown  plants.  The  Carnation  is 
perfectly  hardy  in  Europe,  but  requires  protection  in  this 
country,  as  the  rain  and  snow  will  destroy  them,  therefore 
they  ought  to  be  kept  during  the  winter  season  in  a  dry 
place.  The  last  of  March,  if  the  weather  be  fine,  it  will 
be  necessary  to  take  them  out  of  their  winter  quarters, 
and  pot  them  off  singly,  or  plant  them  put  in  the  open 
ground.  If  intended  to  flower  in  pots,  the  soil  most  con- 
genial for  their  prosperity  is  a  rich  sandy  loam  with  a 
good  drainage.  If  the  pots  are  sunk  in  the  ground  to 
the  rim  until  the  flowers  begin  to  expand,  it  will  save 
much  trouble ;  then  remove  them  into  the  house  or  a  shady 
situation;  it  will  preserve  the  flowers  longer,  and  their 
colors  continue  more  brilliant.  When  the  plants  are  kept 
in  the  ground  or  in  pots,  as  they  spindle  up  to  flower,  they 
will  require  a  stick,  and  be  tied  up  as  the  stern  advances. 
Most  of  the  finest  flowers  have  a  tendency  to  burst  out  on 
one  side ;  should  this  be  the  case,  take  a  sharp  pointed 
knife  and  ease  the  opposite  side  to  make  them  open  eventy, 


102  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

or  take  a  small  piece  of  bass  matting  and  tie  it  round  the 
flower  bud,  this  will  preserve  a  good  symmetry  in  their  ap- 
pearance ;  at  the  same  time,  water  the  plants  freely  in  the 
pots  while  the  buds  are  swelling,  and  during  the  time  the 
flowers  are  expanded.  The  Carnation  is  divided  into  three 
classes : — the  bizzair  has  a  white  ground  with  stripes  or 
spots  of  two  colors  ;  flakes  also  have  a  white  ground,  with 
a  stripe  of  one  color  running  through  the  petal ;  the 
picotee,  or  pencilled,  have  a  white  or  yellow  ground; 
the  edges  of  the  petals  are  beautifully  pencilled  with  pur- 
ple, crimson,  or  red,  and  considered  by  many  the]  most 
enchanting.  The  character  of  the  Carnation  may  be 
summed  up  in  a  few  words : — the  stem  should  be  from 
thirty  to  forty-five  inches  high,  the  foot-stalk  of  the  flower 
elastic  and  strong,  the  flower  not  less  than  three  inches  in 
diameter,  well  formed,  the  petals  not  too  crowded  nor  too 
thin,  the  calyx  strong,  one  inch  in  length,  keeping  the 
base  circular,  rising  half  an  inch  above  the  calyx ;  the 
outer  petals  should  be  long  and  broad,  rising  perpendicular 
half  an  inch  above  the  calyx,  then  reflex  gracefully  just 
enough  to  support  or  make  sufficient  room  for  the  inner 
petals,  giving  the  whole  flower  a  convex,  nearly  forming  a 
half  globe.  The  outer  petals,  of  course,  should  be  the 
largest,  and  without  notches  or  fringed.  The  picotee,  in 
this  respect,  is  an  exception  to  this  rule.  The  most  proper, 
tionate  colors  in  each  petal,  and  free  from  spots,  the  bettor 
the  flower.  Pink,  scarlet,  and  purple  are  the  most  prevail- 
ing colors  in  the  Carnation ;  pink  and  scarlet  are  often 
blended  in  the  same  flower,  but  the  scarlet  and  purple 
very  seldom.  When  the  plant  is  troubled  with  the  green 
fly,  it  should  be  syringed  with  soap  suds,  or  take  a  camel's 


CARNATION.  103 

hair  pencil  and  brush  them  off  This  plant  is  frequently 
injured  by  the  earwig  and  caterpillar  destroying  the  flower 
buds ;  if  you  find  your  plants  troubled  with  them,  you 
will  readily  find  them  on  the  plant  after  night,  and  they  must 
be  destroyed,  or  your  flowers  will ;  therefore,  watch  them 
regularly,  for  it  is  a  common  occurrence  to  have  the  buds 
destroyed  in  one  or  two  nights. 


CHINA  PINK. 

(DIANTHUS  CHINENSIS.) 

"  On  me  such  beauty  summer  pours, 
That  I  am  covered  o'er  with  flowers." 

This  herbaceous  biennial  is  a  native  of  China,  and 
flowers  all  the  summer ;  it  is  quite  ornamental,  and  was 
imported  into  Europe  one  hundred  years  ago,  and  is  easily 
propagated  from  seed.  The  stem  branching,  flowers  soli- 
tary, scales  linear,  leafy,  petals  rather  smooth  and  jugged, 
leaves  linear  lanceolate,  thrives  best  in  a  rich  soil.  The 
beauty  of  this  flower  ought  to  make  it  a  general  favorite 
with  amateurs.  This  pink  is  deficient  in  odor ;  are  we  to  * 
this  simple  circumstance  to  attribute  such  wilful  neglect  ? 
if  nature  has  withheld  a  fragrance,  their  beauty  compen- 
sates for  that  deficiency,  which  is  not  the  case  in  all  flowers, 
nor  is  there  a  sameness  in  the  flower,  their  colors  differ- 
ing materially.  This  plant  exhibits  a  wonderful  diversity, 
more  so  than  any  in  cultivation,  which  is  a  great  recom- 


104  A  GUIDE  TO  FLORICULTURE. 

mendation  to  command  general  notice.  In  some  respects 
this  plant  resembles  the  Sweet  William,  and  at  times  I  am 
inclined  to  think  it  a  cross  from  that  flower,  though  the 
flowering  appears  greatly  different,  as  the  one  throws  up  a 
corymb  of  flowers  similar  in  appearance  to  the  head  of  a 
Cauliflower,  when  the  Pink  branches  out  with  a  single 
flower.  The  China  Pink  is  susceptible  of  much  improve- 
ment by  hybridizing,  and  I  recommend  it  to  all  lovers  of 
showy  flowers.  The  first  season  will  enable  you  to  judge 
the  merit  of  the  flower ;  this,  like  most  double  flowers,  will 
also  produce  some  single,  and  those  generally  remarkably 
pretty ;  that  should  be  no  consideration,  throw  them  over 
the  fence,  save  none  but  what  are  double.  The  second 
season,  place  some  of  your  plants  along  side  of  the  Sweet 
William,  by  which  means  the  Pink  will  cross  without  fur- 
ther trouble  ;  this  is  styled  natural  crossing,  as  the  pollen 
will  scatter  without  artificial  means,  and  the  seed  of  the 
China  Pink  will  produce  a  mule  or  hybrid ;  the  beauty  of 
the  two  combined  makes  one  of  the  most  magnificent 
plants  in  cultivation ;  but  the  misfortune  is  they  flower  so 
luxuriantly,  as  to  die  at  the  close  of  the  second  season ; 
still  there  is  a  consolation,  the  mule  Pink  is  easily  obtained, 
this  alleviates  a  portion  of  that  regret  we  should  otherwise 
feel.  It  is  surprising  that  gardeners  have  never  taken  this 
flower  under  their  care,  for  we  see  them  cultivate  flowers 
of  less  merit,  and  some  scarcely  worth  picking  up  in  the 
street.  Does  this  not  show  a  want  of  taste  ?  or  can  it  arise 
from  the  easy  manner  in  which  it  is  propagated  ?  The 
seed  of  the  mule  Pink  I  could  never  get  to  germinate  ;  this 
is  frequently  the  case  with  hybrids  that  are  double.  To 
propagate  the  China  Pink,  the  seeds  should  be  sown  in 


CHINA   PINK.  105 

March,  in  a  rich,  light  soil ;  when  the  plants  are  about  one 
inch  high,  transplant  them  round  the  border,  or  in  a  bed  ; 
the  border  is  preferable,  for  when  the  flower  expands,  if 
single,  it  can  be  pulled  up  and  replaced  with  some  others, 
which  would  not  appear  so  well  if  in  a  bed.  Save  none  but 
double,  for,  rest  assured,  if  you  allow  any  single  to  remain, 
the  seed  of  your  double  will  be  good  for  nothing.  The 
benefit  will  result  the  second  season,  which  is  the  best 
time  to  save  seed,  for  the  most  double  will  seed  more 
freely  than  those  of  the  first.  Seeds  of  the  second  year 
will  produce  unquestionably  better  plants,  and  will  aver- 
age two-thirds  double  flowers,  while  those  of  the  first 
will  not  produce  one-third  ;  and  if  the  single  be  allowed 
to  remain  in  the  bed,  the  probability  is  that  all  will 
prove  single ;  a  want  of  this  knowledge  is  why  this  de- 
lightful biennial  has  been  neglected.  The  mule  of  the 
China  Pink  and  Sweet  William  will  generally  produce 
their  flowers  so  luxuriantly  as  to  cover  the  foliage,  im- 
paiiing  a  most  gorgeous  sight  rarely  seen  in  other 
flowers.  The  China  Pink  is  perfectly  hardy,  still,  like 
many  other  flowers,  protection  will  improve  their  beauty, 
and  flower  earlier. 


106  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

CAROLINA   PINK 

(SPIGELIA   MARILANDICA.) 

"  I  love  thee,  yes,  as  flowers  love  light  and  air, 
As  night  to  stars,  or  earth  the  glorious  sun, 
As  the  cherished  heart  loves  lone  and  earnest  prayer, 
So  I  love  thee .» 

This  is  a  perennial,  rooted,  herbaceous  plant,  a  native  of 
this  country.  There  is  something  prepossessing1  in  the  ap- 
pearance of  this  native  flower,  not  only  from  the  singularity 
of  its  appearance,  but  it  may  be  considered  ornamental 
withal,  and  is  becoming  a  favorite.  The  root  fibres  branch 
and  are  thrown  off  some  distance,  and  several  stems  arise 
from  the  roots  about  two  feet  high,  with  a  spike  of  flowers 
of  a  beautiful  carmine  crimson,  in  the  shape  of  a  funnel. 
The  flowers  being  situated  all  on  one  side  of  the  stem, 
the  weight  of  which  bend  it  in  a  graceful  form,  consist- 
ing of  ten  to  twenty  in  number.  The  leaves  are  opposite, 
without  foot  stalks,  ovate,  lanceolate,  and  smooth.  The  ca- 
lyx of  the  flower  is  persistent,  with  five  long  subulate  serrate 
leaves  turning  back,  of  a  yellow  color,  giving  a  contrast 
novel  and  striking  to  the  eye ;  the  stamens  short  and  insert- 
ed in  a  cup  ;  anthers  oblong  heart  shape,  the  germ  ovate ; 
style  the  length  of  the  corolla,  ending  in  a  linear  fringed 
stigma  projecting  beyond  it;  a  double  capsule  consisting  of 
cohering  globular  celled  portions  containing  the  seed.  This 
plant  has  been  used  extensively  for  its  medicinal  properties 
as  a  cathartic,  and  in  some  cases  has  proved  rather  detri- 


CAROLINA   PINK.  107 

mental  than  beneficial ;  this,  no  doubt,  was  through  the  ig- 
norance of  pretenders  in  medicine ;  from  the  general  use  it 
is  in,  there  can  be  no  danger  in  the  hands  of  a  medical  man 
of  good  standing.  As  a  vermifuge,  the  properties  of  this 
plant  are  excellent,  as  was  well  known  to  most  of  the  Indi- 
ans upon  the  settlement  of  this  country  by  the  white  people. 
Setting  aside  its  medicinal  properties,  this  plant  is  cultivated 
with  no  trouble  in  any  garden  soil,  and  is  a  very  desirable 
flower,  and  is  bound  to  be  a  favorite  in  the  garden. 


DOUBLE    DAISY. 

(BELLIS  PERENNIS.) 

"  Thrice  welcome,  little  English  flower ! 

I'll  rear  thee  with  a  trembling  hand ; 
Oh !    for  the  April  sun  and  shower, 

The  sweet  May-dews  of  that  fair  land 
Where  daisies,  thick  as  starlight,  stand 

In  every  walk !  that  here  might  shoot 
Thy  scions,  and  thy  buds  expand, 

A  hundred  from  one  root!  " 

I 

This  was  once  a  very  popular  perennial  herbaceous  flow- 
ering plant,  and  still  has  many  admirers.  A  person  trav- 
elling in  England  would  be  delighted  to  see  in  what  per- 
fection the  cottagers  of  that  country  manage  them  in  a  bor- 
der of  the  pleasure  garden ;  it  is  truly  delightful,  so  unpre- 
tending the  flower,  yet  how  beautiful  the  appearance. 
There  are  no  less  than  six  varieties ;  the  most  common  is 


108  A   GUIDE   TO    FLORICULTURE. 

called  the  "Hen  and  Chickens,"  from  the  circumstance  that 
round  the  outer  whorls  emanate  a  great  many  small  flowers, 
giving  the  whole  quite  an  ornamental  appearance,  at  the 
same  time  a  singularity  not  easily  described.  The  Daisy 
throws  up  a  scape  about  four  inches  high,  naked  and  single 
flowered;  the  leaves  being  spatulate,  obovate,  crenate. 
This  flower  is  but  little  cultivated  in  this  country ;  this  may 
arise  as  much  from  a  want  of  knowledge  of  their  culture  as 
any  thing  else.  The  Daisy  should  be  kept  in  the  shade 
and  be  repotted  spring  and  fall  with  what  gardeners  call 
maiden  soil.  This  is  easily  attained  by  going  into  the 
meadows,  and  taking  off  the  turf,  then  you  come  to  the  soil 
described ;  but  do  not  dig  below  three  inches,  after  the  turf 
is  taken  off.  With  the  use  of  this  soil,  and  a  shady  situa- 
tion, your  plant  will  thrive.  One  thing  is  to  be  observed  ; 
you  must  consider  this  plant  a  parlor  one,  for  it  will  not 
stand  the  severity  of  the  winter  in  this  country.  It  is  in- 
creased by  dividing  the  roots  in  the  fall. 


DAHLIA. 

(GEORGINA.) 

"  Her  matchless  wealth  of  beauty  beggars  all 
Our  courtly  dames  can  boast !  her  queenly  form, 
Her  majesty  of  mein,  would  grace  a  throne." 

The  Dahlia  is  a  perennial  of  much  beauty,  and  has  cre- 
ated more  excitement  than  any  other  flower  since  the  Tulip 


by  Houlshm-  &  StcnernarL, 


R0w.M<} 


DAHLIA.  109 

mania.  It  is  tuberous  rooted,  throwing-  up  a  stem  from  two 
to  eight  feet  high,  depending  on  the  kind,  season,  situation, 
and  soil ;  it  hears  innumerable  quantities  of  flowers,  beauti- 
fully diversified  in  color,  from  pure  snow-white  to  black,  or 
nearly  so,  with  all  the  shades  intervening ;  not  only  selfs, 
that  is  of  one  color,  but  some  most  magnificently  variegat- 
ed, tipped,  or  striped.  The  stem  branching  and  the  leaves 
vary  in  shape  nearly  as  much  as  the  flowers.  Although 
nature  has  given  this  plant  great  scope  in  variety  of  color, 
there  has  not  been  one  produced  of  an  azure  blue,  a  color 
rarely  found  in  any  plant  that  produces  a  clear  yellow. 
There  are  some  exceptions  to  this  rule  ;  the  amateur  should 
not  be  discouraged  as  it  may  be  obtained ;  if  so,  it  would 
produce  a  fortune  to  the  person  that  raised  it,  if  sold  in  Eu- 
rope. The  price  set  on  the  flower  in  this  country,  that  is, 
on  seedling  Dahlias,  is  not  commensurate  to  the  trouble  the 
merit  of  the  flower  would  deserve.  It  is  a  formidable  rival 
to  the  queen  of  flowers,  the  "  Rose ;"  in  grace  and  brilliancy 
of  bloom  is  its  superior,  and  it  only  lacks  perfume  to  prove 
its  superiority  to  all  others  in  the  floral  world. 

This  gorgeous  flower  is  a  native  of  Mexico.  It  was  in- 
troduced into  Europe  about  fifty  years  ago,  and  was,  by 
some  mismanagement,  lost;  the  seed  was  re-introduced 
again  by  Lady  Georgina  Holland,  and  was  named  after  her ; 
but  the  name  previously  given  was  Dahlia,  after  a  celebrat- 
ed botanist  of  the  name  of  Dahl,  which  appears  to  retain  ils 
prerogative  up  to  the  present  time.  Humboldt,  in  his  trav- 
els in  Mexico,  says  it  is  found  growing  in  the  meadows  and 
plains  of  that  country,  of  all  colors,  but  the  flowers  are  sin- 
gle. Cultivation  has  made  them  double,  the  same  as  the 
Helianthus  of  this  country,  by  which  means  the  whole 


110  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

world  has  been  bountifully  supplied  with  the  choicest 
kinds.  Long  catalogues  are  issued  annually,  containing 
many  thousands ;  and  no  flower  ever  cultivated  has  been 
the  cause  of  more  imposition  on  the  public  than  this,  aris- 
ing from  tricks  played  on  them  by  the  exorbitancy  of 
the  florist,  which  has  consequently  injured  its  reputation. 
Persons  in  the  habit  of  selling  Dahlias  in  England  for  gar- 
deners, have  been  compelled  to  sell  with  a  warranty  that 
the  flower  shall  answer  the  description  given  in  the  cata- 
logue ;  in  most  cases  of  late  the  money  has  been  refunded 
and  the  gardeners  have  been  the  losers  by  their  "tricks  in 
trade."  We  do  not,  therefore,  see  so  many  advertised  now 
as  several  years  back.  There  are  not  more  than  forty  that 
are  true  to  their  character  as  represented  ;  the  season  has 
some  effect  on  their  perfection,  and  persons  wishing  to  ob- 
tain a  collection  should  see  them  growing,  and  examine 
their  habits.  To  select  from  a  stand  exhibited  in  any  place 
is  impolitic,  for  a  plant  may  have  but  one  good  flower  in  a 
season,  which  may  captivate  your  admiration,  or  the  plant 
may  be  a  shy  bloomer,  not  worth  garden  room,  thus  creat- 
ing disappointment  instead  of  pleasure. 

This  interesting  flower  is  easily  raised  by  seed,  or  divid- 
ed at  the  root,  or  by  cuttings.  To  raise  from  seed  it  is  ne- 
cessary to  sow  them  in  March,  in  a  light,  rich  soil,  and 
when  four  leaves  are  formed,  prick  them  out  and  pot  them 
separately  until  June ;  give  them  every  encouragement  in 
their  growth,  and  then  plant  them  out ;  treat  them  like  other 
plants,  and  they  will  flower  the  first  season.  If  you  find  the 
flowers  single,  throw  them  away.  No  plant  is  worth  saving 
unless  double  and  superior  to  any  of  the  same  color  in  cul- 
tivation. This  renders  the  raising  from  seed  rather  dis- 


DAHLIA.  1  i  1 

couraging  to  a  young  beginner,  and  in  fact  it  certainly  is 
poor  business,  as  plants  already  raised  can  be  purchased 
cheap,  enabling  a  person  to  procure  a  good  selection  at  a 
moderate  price. 

The  principal  reason  the  Dahlia  has  not  succeeded  better 
in  this  country  is,  that  persons  having  roots  are  anxious  for 
early  flowers,  and  generally  take  the  greatest  pains  to  defeat 
their  object.  Gardeners,  to  satisfy  the  public  demand  for 
early  flowers,  have  been  compelled,  at  the  sacrifice  of  their 
judgment,  to  propagate  for  the  sake  of  selling  their  plants. 
It  should  be  observed  that  the  Dahlia  is  an  autumn  not  a 
spring  flower,  and  should,  therefore,  never  be  planted  in  the 
open  ground  before  June.  If  the  rule  here  laid  down  be 
followed,  there  will  not  be  that  complaint  which  has  here- 
tofore existed.  There  is  no  general  rule  without  some  ex- 
ception. It  happens,  sometimes,  that  early  planting  suc- 
ceeds, but  only  in  rainy  seasons ;  for,  if  planted  early,  and 
we  have  a  dry  season,  the  plants  will  attain  their  growth  in 
July  or  early  in  August,  and  consequently  be  attacked  by 
the  red  spider.  That  insect  lives  and  breeds  on  the  under 
side  of  the  leaves,  which,  for  want  of  a  proper  circulation  of 
sap,  soon  perish,  thus  defeating  the  desired  object.  In  late 
planting,  your  plants  will  not  attain  their  growth  before 
the  last  of  August,  when  the  nights  begin  to  get  cool ;  they 
will  then  flower  more  profusely,  amply  compensating  for 
all  the  trouble  bestowed  on  them.  The  best  application  for 
destroying  the  red  spider  is  whale  oil  soap,  two  pounds  to 
fifteen  gallons  of  water,  syimged  under  the  leaves  as  soon 
as  they  begin  to  turn  yellow. 


112  A  GUIDE  TO  FLORICULTURE. 

TO  PART  THE  ROOTS. 

This  is  the  most  advisable  way  to  propagate  for  ama- 
teurs. In  May,  take  the  roots  and  plant  them  in  the  open 
ground,  leaving  the  crown,  or  part  where  the  eyes  are  situ- 
ted,  out ;  you  will  soon  see  them  sprout,  and,  when  suffi- 
ciently developed,  take  them  up  and  divide  the  root  with  a 
knife,  so  as  to  leave  one  eye  to  every  tuber.  Then  put 
them  in  pots  until  the  time  of  planting,  and  water  occa- 
sionally, just  to  keep  them  in  a  growing  state.  At  the 
same  time,  be  sure  to  keep  the  plants  out  of  the  reach  of 
frost  by  covering  them  up,  or  you  will  lose  them. 

TO   CULTIVATE   BY   SLIPS. 

For  this  mode  of  cultivation  it  is  necessary  to  prepare 
a  hot  bed,  in  April,  of  stable  manure,  in  the  usual  way,  as 
you  would  to  raise  early  vegetables,  and  when  the  heat  is 
about  half  spent,  which  will  be  in  about  ten  days,  put  in 
the  roots,  leaving  the  crowns  out  of  the  soil.  When  your 
sprouts  are  three  or  four  inches  long,  slip  them  off  with 
the  thumb,  or  a  knife ;  then  place  your  slips  in  a  thumb 
(two  inch)  pot  filled  with  a  light  soil  (only  one  in  each 
pot),  and  return  it  to  the  hot  bed,  giving  plenty  of  water, 
and  only  sufficient  air  to  keep  them  from  damping  off  In 
three  weeks  you  will  find  them  sufficiently  rooted  to  be 
repotted  into  a  larger  one.  They  should  then  be  placed 
in -a  frame  and  hardened  gradually.  In  this  way  you  may 
continue  as  long  as  your  plants  will  sprout.  Those  sprout- 
ed first  will  make  the  best  plants ;  for  the  more  the  plants 


DAHLIA.  113 

are  taken  off;  the  weaker  they  will  be.  Plants  struck  with 
bottom  heat  will  never  produce  such  good  flowers,  or  s-uch 
healthy  plants,  as  those  struck  in  the  open  ground,  and 
divided. 

THE  SOIL. 

Much  has  been  said  and  written  on  this  subject.  I  have 
found  a  sandy  loam  to  be  the  best  for  general  culture. 
The  Dahlia,  like  the  Rose,  will  accommodate  itself  to 
almost  any  soil,  still  it  must  be  admitted  that  art  will  make 
some  difference  in  its  culture,  for  if  your  Dahlias  are  selfs, 
that  is,  flowers  of  one  color,  such  as  Matchless  (Weller's) 
Calliope,  Admiral  Stopford,  Countess  of  Liverpool,  and  the 
like,  to  enrich  the  soil  a  little  will  make  their  colors  more 
brilliant.  For  Dahlias  of  two  colors,  such  as  Alba  purpu- 
rea,  Striata  formosissima,  Bride's  Maid,  Lady  St.'Mauer, 
or  any  other  variegated  flower,  if  planted  in  rich  soil,  their 
colors  will  run,  that  is,  the  variegation  will  not  be  so  dis- 
tinct as  in  a  poorer  soil.  A  sandy  loam  for  general  culture 
is  best,  and  will  retain  moisture  the  longest,  which  in  dry 
weather  is  desirable. 

After  the  Dahlias  are  planted,  you  will  find  if  of  great 
advantage  to  place  old  manure  on  the  top  for  a  foot  around 
the  plant,  to  keep  the  roots  moist  in  dry  weather.  It  would 
be  a  great  advantage  to  drive  your  stakes  prior  to  putting 
your  plants  in  ;  by  this  means  you  would  not  destroy  the 
roots.  Never  allow  but  one  stem  to  grow  from  one  tuber. 


10 


114  A   GUIDE    TO   FLORICULTURE. 

TAKING   UP   ROOTS. 

In  taking  up  your  roots  in  the  fall,  it  is  frequently  done 
too  hastily ;  you  will  find  it  of  advantage,  just  before  you 
expect  a  frost,  to  take  a  spade  and  cut  the  ends  of  the 
tubers.  This  will  not  affect  the  flowers  or  the  plant,  but 
will  have  a  tendency  to  ripen  the  tubers  sooner.  When 
the  foliage  is  black  with  the  frost,  cut  them  down  to  within 
three  inches  of  the  ground,  and  lay  the  haulm  over  the 
roots  as  a  protection  from  the  frost.  In  eight  or  ten  days 
your  plants  may  be  taken  up  ;  but  be  careful  and  label  as 
you  take  them  up,  to  enable  you  to  know  one  plant  from 
another  at  any  time.  Place  the  roots  in  a  room  for  about 
two  weeks,  to  dry ;  then  pack  them  in  a  barrel  with  some 
hay,  and  then  in  a  cellar  or  room  out  of  the  reach  of  frost. 

In  the  month  of  January,  if  the  weather  is  mild,  it  will 
be  necessary  to  examine  the  roots,  and,  if  mouldy  and 
likely  to  rot,  they  should  be  dried  in  the  sun,  and  then  re- 
packed. In  the  coldest  parts  of  Europe  it  is  a  common 
practice  to  bury  them  in  the  ground  like  potatoes,  a  plan 
I  would  recommend  to  persons  living  in  the  country,  who 
have  no  cellars. 


DANDELION.  115 

DANDELION. 

(LEONTODON  TARAXACUM.) 

"  Thine,  full  many  a  pleasing  bloom 
Of  blossoms  lost  to  all  perfume; 
Thine,  the  dandelion  flowers, 
Gilt  with  dew,  like  sun  with  showers  " 

The  Dandelion  is  a  common  weed  on  the  commons  and 
meadows.  The  outer  scales  of  the  involucre  are  bent 
back,  the  leaves  runcinate,  glabrous,  toothed,  thro  wing  up  a 
stem  six  inches  high,  with  a  yellow  flower  at  the  extreme. 
When  the  seed  is  ripe,  it  forms  a  ball,  and  each  seed  is  fur- 
nished with  a  soft  down,  and  is  easily  carried  a  great  dis- 
tance in  the  air  by  the  wind.  This  will  account  for  the 
plant  being  so  abundant  in  all  directions.  How  frequently 
are  the  productions  of  nature  used  for  the  benefit  of  the 
livino- ;  even  to  the  assistance  of  the  lover,  for  in  their  time 

&    l  * 

of  uncertainty  do  we  see  the  fair  sex,  when  anxious  to 
know  if  the  object  their  "  soul  holds  most  dear,"  retains  one 
kind  remembrance  of  them,  will  take  the  scape  with  the 
matured  seed,  blow  it  gently,  and  if  there  remains  one  or 
more  tufts  of  seed,  their  soft  and  tender  feelings,  prompted 
by  curiosity,  seem  satisfied  that  their  anticipations  are  re- 
ciprocated, thus  giving  a  decisive  satisfaction,  once  mantled 
with  fear,  making  their  love  flow  more  smoothly  through  a 
complication  of  uncertainty. 

Linnaeus  considers  this  plant  more  regular  in  expanding 
its  flo\vers  than  any  yet  known.  On  careful  examination, 


116  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

it  will  be  found  to  possess  more  perfection  than  is  generally 
accorded  to  it,  because  the  familiar  intercourse  we  have 
daily  with  this  flower,  deprives  it  of  the  attraction  that 
scarcity  alone  could  discover,  and  then  it  would  be  indis- 
pensable to  the  parterre.     If  the  Anemone  were  placed 
alongside  of  this  flower,  setting  the  color  aside,  the  Ane- 
mone would  be  considered  the  less  attractive  of  the  two. 
What  operates  against  this  plant  is,  its  being  devoid  of  agree- 
able ordor,  and  the  color  simple.  Why  should  not  cultivation 
improve  this  as  well  as  other  plants  ?     Attention  to  this 
particular  has  done   much  in  many  instances }  but   the 
florist  that  would  attempt  to  improve  this  flower,  by  taking 
it  from  its  rural  state,  would  meet  with  derision.     Popular 
prejudice  would  be  against  him.    While  one  might  consider 
it  ornamental,  another  might  hold  the  reverse  opinion.     I 
cannot  say  my  ambition  would  ever  induce  me  to  attempt 
to  establish  it  in  my  garden,  whatever  its  merits  ;  still  that 
does  not  deprive  the  flower  of  any   merit  appertaining  to 
so  common  a  plant.      Education  has  established  a  con- 
tempt that  all  the  florists  in  the  country  cannot  eradicate. 
I  remember,  that  when  in  the  country  on  a  visit,  at  dinner 
there  was  a  new  variety  of  vegetables  (so  called)  on  the 
table,  and  my  opinion  was  solicited  in  regard  to  their  merit. 
I  thought  them  quite  agreeable,  for  early  vegetables  in  the 
spring,  and  was  greatly  surprised  when  informed  that  they 
were  the  Dandelion.     I  found  them  much  better  than  some 
purchased  in  market  at  a  costly  price  ;  yet,  notwithstanding 
the  agreeable  flavor,  my  mind  was  so  prejudiced,  I  could 
never  be  brought  to  eat  them  in  the  city,  so  strong  is  the 
effects  of  education.     In  this  country,  and  in  many  other 
parts,  this  plant  is  popular  for  its  medicinal  qualities,  being 


DANDELION.  1 17 

considered  tonic,  diuretic,  and  aperient ;  it  has  a  specific 
action  on  the  liver,  resolving  its  chronic  engorgements 
when  languid,  and  is  used  more  especially  when  the  de- 
rangement of  the  hepatic  system  and  digestive  organs  are 
impaired.  In  chronic  inflammation  of  the  liver,  or  de- 
ficiency of  bile,  and  dropsical  affections,  it  is  used  with 
decided  success.  The  Dandelion  is  generally  used  in  the 
form  of  extract  or  decoction;  by  boiling  the  root  (after  slicing 
it)  down  to  one  half. 


FAIR-EYE. 

(CALLIOPSIS.) 

Of  this  family  of  annual  flowering  plants,  there  is  a 
great  variety,  flowering  from  June  until  cut  down  by  the 
frost.  They  are  natives  of  this  country.  Their  general 
appearance  is  pleasing  and  showy,  being  hardy,  erect,  and 
branching,  rather  slender  in  growth,  from  one  to  two  feet 
high ;  the  flowers  yellow,  with  brown  centre.  The  best 
of  this  variety  is  C.  drummondii ;  it  is  of  dwarf  habit  and 
large  flowers,  not  exhibiting  that  naked  and  loose  appear- 
ance so  apparent  in  the  stem  of  other  varieties.  The  whole 
of  the  Calliopsis  xvill  grow  in  any  garden  soil,  and  in  bet- 
ter perfection  if  the  seed  be  sown  in  September,  as  the 
young  plants  will  survive  the  winter,  and  in  the  early  spring 
can  be  removed  to  where  they  are  wanted  to  flower.  In 


118  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

addition  to  the  annuals,  there  are  several  varieties  that  are 
perennial,  equally  ornamental,  which  require  much  the 
same  treatment  as  the  generality  of  perennials. 


FOXGLOVE. 

(DIGITALIS.) 

44  The  Foxglove  and  the  fern, 

How  gracefully  they  grow, 
With  grand  old  oaks  above  them, 
And  wavy  grass  below." 

The  Foxglove  is  a  beautiful  perennial  rooted,  flowering 
plant,  with  rough  leaves,  throwing  up  an  erect  stem  about 
three  feet  high.  The  flowers  are  spiked  and  numerous,  at 
the  safcrts  time  very  showy,  bearing  a  beautiful  purple 
flower,  in  their  native  state,  while  some  in  cultivation 
have  receded  from  that  deep  richness  to  a  bluish  color. 
There  is  also  a  yellow,  rather  small  and  dingy,  not  worth 
the  trouble  of  cultivating.  The  leaves  of  the  Foxglove 
are  ovate  pointed,  from  four  to  eight  inches  long,  and  about 
half  of  that  in  width ;  the  foot  stalk  is  short  and  winged, 
— the  upper  are  alternate  and  lanceolate,  and  obtusely 
serrated  at  the  edges,  with  a  rough  surface  of  a  deep 
green  color,  the  under  part  more  downy  than  the  upper. 
The  flowers  are  numerous  and  connected  with  the  stem  by 
short  peduncles  hanging  down  ;  each  flower  is  of  a  bell 
form,  or  rather  like  the  finger  of  a  glove ;  the  inner  side  of 


FOXGLOVE.  1 19 

the  flower  is  beautifully  spotted  with  black,  on  a  whitish 
ground ;  the  whole  filament  is  surrounded  by  yellow  an- 
thers ;  the  style  is  simple  and  supports  a  bifid  stigma ;  the 
seeds  are  contained  in  two  celled  capsules. 

The  Foxglove  is  a  native  of  the  South  of  England,  and 
delights  in  a  shady  situation,  particularly  under  trees,  but 
will  grow  very  well  in  the  open  ground  in  any  common 
garden  soil.  Under  these  circumstances  it  must  be  con- 
sidered a  very  desirable  plant  in  the  garden,  and  is  so  hardy 
as  seldom  to  be  injured  by  frost. 

To  propagate  it,  the  seeds  should  be  sown  in  the  open 
ground  in  April,  and  be  transplanted  to  where  it  is  intended 
to  flower.  When  the  plants  acquire  a  few  leaves,  they 
will  stand  the  winter,  if  sown  in  the  fall ;  but  there  is  no 
advantage  gained  by  sowing  in  the  fall,  as  they  will  not 
flower  any  earlier.  From  the  facility  with  which  this  plant 
is  raised  from  seed,  it  is  hardly  worth  while  to  divide 
the  roots,  as  is  often  done  with  old  plants  in  the  fall. 
Seedlings  will  produce  the  best  flowers,  and  my  experi- 
ence leads  me  to  consider  it  more  as  a  biennial  than  a 
perennial. 

The  Foxglove  possesses  medicinal  properties,  which 
should  be  known  to  those  who  cultivate  it  for  ornament, 
as  it  may  prevent  bad  results,  as  children  at  times  will  pick 
flowers  and  leaves  and  eat  them,  without  the  parent  being 
aware  of  the  danger.  The  flowers  are  without  fragrance  ; 
the  leaves,  when  dried,  acquire  a  narcotic  odor,  and  are  a 
pale  green,  with  a  bitter  and  nauseous  taste.  When  used 
as  a  medicine,  they  may  be  valuable  in  a  skillful  hand,  but 
with  empirics  may  prove  a  deadly  poison.  It  often  hap- 
pens that  this  plant,  whk  n  used  as  a  medicine,  will  not  act 


120  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

on  the  system  as  required ;  therefore,  several  doses  are 
often  administered  before  any  action  takes  place  in  the 
patient ;  this  being  the  case,  unless  the  physician  be  a 
scientific  man,  it  may  cause  stupor  or  delirium,  prostration 
of  strength,  and  other  symptoms,  indicating  the  presence 
of  a  deadly  poison. 


FORGET-ME-NOT. 

(MYOSOTIS  PALUSTRIS.) 

"  Lay  to  thy  heart  this  token-flower, 

With  love's  own  tears  its  leaves  are  wet, 
T  will  whisper,  in  its  dying  hour, 
Do  not  forget." 

This  beautiful  little  deciduous  herbaceous  plant  is  indi- 
genous in  marshy  grounds  in  England,  and  like  other 
weeds,  considered  of  little  merit,  until  the  florist  points 
out  its  intrinsic  beauty.  The  root  is  perennial,  the  calyx 
fine  toothed,  rather  smooth,  teeth  equal,  obtuse,  as  long  as 
the  tube  of  the  corolla ;  leaves  lanceolate,  smooth,  the  calyx 
half  the  size  of  the  limb  of  the  corolla.  It  flowers  from 
April  to  August,  of  a  beautiful  azure  blue.  Veronica 
chamadrys  is  often  imposed  on  people  not  acquainted  with 
the  plant,  for  the  former  ;  this  is  also  a  native  of  England ; 
the  treatment  of  this  is  widely  different  It  is  found  grow- 
ing on  dry  banks,  and  flowers  from  May  to  July,  throwing 
up  a  spike  with  ten  to  twenty  bright  blue  flowers,  nearly  a 
foot  high,  possessing  considerable  merit  for  their  beauty 


FORGET-ME-NOT.  121 

The  genuine  Forget-Me-Not  is  extensively  cultivated  in 
France,  for  the  Paris  market,  and  succeeds  well,  if  kept  in 
pots  in  a  pan  of  water,  making  a  pretty  appearance  in  the 
window. 

It  is  easily  propagated  by  dividing  the  roots  in  the  spring 
or  fall,  and  planting  in  a  rich  soil,  requiring  little  or  no 
attention  further  than  pinching  off  the  ends  of  the  shoots 
to  prevent  its  running  over  the  sides  of  the  pot ;  for  com- 
pactness sometimes  makes  a  plant  as  beautiful  as  the  flow- 
ers. We  know  that  allowing  plants  to  run  too  much,  pre- 
vents them  from  flowering  luxuriantly,  which  is  the  case 
with  this  plant.  Care  must  be  taken  to  destroy  the  insects 
which  are  frequently  found  on  them ;  this  is  easily  done,  if 
attended  to  on  their  first  appearance.  The  flower  will 
sometimes  sport  to  pink,  or  a  dingy  yellow ;  this  arises 
from  some  local  cause.  It  may  then  be  hybridized  with 
some  of  the  Alpine  species,  and  new  varieties  may  be  ob- 
tained. In  its  native  state,  it  is  not  known  to  sport.  It  has 
attracted  more  attention  in  France  than  its  native  country, 
i.nd  is  now  almost  identified  with  it,  being  found  growing 
profusely  on  the  banks  of  the  Luxembourg,  the  peasants 
calling  that  stream  the  "  FAIRY  BATHS." 

There  is  a  legend  related  of  the  origin  of  the  name 
Forget-Me-Not,  which  has  immortalized  this  flower  for  ever, 
It  appears  that  two  lovers  (as  a  matter  of  course  when 
lovers  are  in  "the  tale  it  is  enough  to  immortalize  any  affair, 
however  trivial)  were  walking  on  the  banks  of  the  Danube ; 
the  lady  discovered  the  flower  M.  palustris,  floating  on  its 
pearly  stream,  and  was  struck  with  its  beauty,  and  ex- 
pressed a  wish  to  possess  it.  The  lover  (unlike  one  of  the 
present  day),  to  prove  his  readiness  to  gratify  his  "  lady 
li 


122  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

love,"  plunged  into  the  stream ;  his  anxiety  to  serve  was 
greater  than  his  strength,  and  he  found  himself  unable  to 
reach  the  shore.  He  threw  the  flower  to  her,  exclaiming, 
as  he  sunk,  "Virgils  Mich  Nicht"  The  flower  heing 
so  dearly  bought,  made  her  treasure  it,  as  long  as  life  re- 
tained its  perogative  in  her  bosom ;  hence  the  cognomen 
«  Forget-Me-Not." 


FUCHSIA. 

"  The  flowers  that  grace  their  native  beds, 
Awhile  put  forth  their  blushing  heads; 
But  on  the  close  of  parting  day 
They  wither,  shrink,  and  die  away ; 
But  those  which  mimic  skill  has  made, 
Nor  scorched  by  sun,  nor  killed  by  shade, 
Shall  blush  with  less  inconstant  hue, 
Which  art  at  pleasure  can  renew." 

This  beautiful  gem  has  not  long  been  introduced  inw 
Flora's  catalogue ;  and,  if  I  am  not  mistaken,  was  first  dis- 
covered in  South  America,  where  the  exterior  beauty  of 
the  flower  attracted  the  eye  of  the  botanist.  I  should  judge, 
from  its  majestic  appearance,  it  has  not  suffered  by  cultiva- 
tion. Those  best  known  are  F.  mycrophilla,  colvillii, 
coccinea,  globosa,  and  longiflora  superba.  With  gar- 
deners, these  varieties  were  considered  quite  an  acquisition 
to  the  flower  department,  but  were  eclipsed  by  the  intro 
duction  of  F.  fulgens,  by  Mr.  Lee,  of  Hammersmith,  in 


FUCHSIA.  123 

England,  from  Mexico,  thence  to  this  country.  This 
plant,  in  appearance,  is  distinct  from  the  above  named 
ones.  The  leaf  is  about  five  inches  long,  and  about 
three  broad,  of  a  bright  green,  and  the  underside  a  lit- 
tle tinged  with  purple.  The  flowers  are  produced  at 
the  ends  of  the  shoots  in  clusters,  are  over  three  inches 
in  length,  of  a  light  scarlet  red,  having  the  segment 
green,  the  inner  portion  of  the  flower  a  deep  scarlet,  and 
prepossessing.  It  is  vigorous  in  growth,  with  tuberous 
roots,  something  like  the  Dahlia.  The  seed  pod  is  nearly 
the  size  of  a  cherry,  rather  more  oblong,  and  very  deli- 
cious in  taste,  not  unlike  the  fruit  of  the  Cactus.  The 
Fuchsia,  being  deciduous,  will  shed  the  leaf  in  winter, 
consequently  may  be  easily  kept  in  a  cellar,  or  any  place 
out  of  the  reach  of  frost.  Dr.  Lindley  suggested  the  pro- 
priety of  crossing  F.  fulgens  with  F.  globosa.  Many  nur- 
serymen took  the  hint  The  result  has  been  wonderful. 
The  list  has  now  swollen  to  about  one  hundred  and  fifty ; 
but  in  many  cases  the  similitude  is  so  great,  that  it  would 
lead  an  experienced  gardener  into  a  labyrinth  of  perplexity 
to  point  out  the  difference  ;  yet  all  find  names  and  advo- 
cates. 

So  esteemed  is  this  beautiful  plant  in  England,  that 
every  new  variety  commands  an  enormous  price  as  soon 
as  it  appears,  which  in  a  few  years  is  reduced  to  a  small 
sum  by  being  supplanted  by  another  new  variety.  It  is 
certainly  surprising  that  this  magnificent  variety  of  plants 
is  not  more  esteemed  in  this  country,  being  easily  cultiva- 
ted by  seed  or  slips,  in  any  common  garden  soil.  The 
seeds  should  be  sown  in  the  spring,  and,  when  about  one 
inch  high,  should  be  potted  off  Slips  should  be  taken  ofi 


124  A  GUIDE   TO  FLORICULTURE. 

in  the  spring,  which  will  root  readily.  Sometimes  we  see 
F.  coccinea,  commonly  called  "  Lady's  Ear  Drop,"  in  a 
parlor,  with  its  graceful  flowers  suspended  on  the  branches, 

"  Beautifully  fair, 
,As  graceful  in  its  loveliness  as  a  maiden's  flowing  hair." 

The  Fuchsia  requires  a  shaded  situation,  being  rather 
impatient  of  drought,  but  in  the  humid  atmosphere  of  Eng- 
land, it  will  live  in  the  open  ground  ;  and  some  gar- 
deners  are  so  wedded  to  this  superb  genus  of  plants  as  to 
form  beds  of  the  different  varieties,  with  the  tallest  in  the 
centre,  placing  an  awning  over  them  in  the  summer, 
to  protect  them  against  the  sun's  rays,  and  prevent  the 
heavy  rains  from  destroying  them.  By  this  means  their 
flowering  season  is  protracted  for  a  longer  time,  and  it  in* 
spires  the  spectator  with  delightful  impressions.  How 
ingenious  the  contrivance  ;  the  labor  of  the  constructor  is 
sufficiently  repaid  by  the  gorgeous  appearance  of  the  flow- 
ers. Is  it  not  delightful  to  reflect  on  the  association  of 
ideas  advanced  and  practised  to  beguile  our  senses  by  such 
tasteful  exhibitions.  Floral  devices  will  predominate  with 
persons  attached  to  flowers ;  the  very  semblance  brings  to 
mind  the  following  lines  by  Cowper: — 

"•  How  sweet  to  muse  upon  the  skill  displayed 
(Infinite  skill)  in  all  that  He  has  made ; 
To  trace  in  Nature's  most  minute  design, 
The  signature  and  stamp  of  Power  Divine." 


GRAFTING   WAX.  125 


GRAFTING   WAX. 

The  component  parts  of  this  useful  and  indispensable  ar- 
ticle in  grafting,  &c.,  is  an  equal  part  of  bees-wax,  rosin, 
and  tallow,  with  sufficient  tar  to  make  it  soft  and  pliable 
when  heated  over  a  fire.  It  may  be  laid  on  with  a  brush 
quite  thick  (blood  warm) ;  and  before  baking  dry,  should  be 
sprinkled  over  with  sand  to  render  it  impenetrable  to  the 
weather,  otherwise  it  would  be  of  little  use.  If  intended  to 
be  worked  with  the  hand,  it  should  be  made  to  the  consist- 
ence of  putty,  by  adding  more  wax ;  this  also  should  be 
nsed  before  cold. 


GARDEN   PINK. 

(DIANTHUS  HORTENSIS.) 

"  -     '  '  the  wild  Pink  crowns  the  garden  wall, 
And  with  the  flowers  are  intermingled  stones, 
Sparry  and  bright,  rough  scattering  of  the  hills." 

This  indispensable  variety  of  flowering  plants  of  late  has 
been  taken  under  the  care  of  the  florist,  and  has  been  much 
improved  by  art.  It  is  an  herbaceous  perennial,  flowering 
in  June ;  the  stem  branching,  flowers  solitary  and  termi- 
nal ;  the  scales  of  the  calyx  ovate  and  short,  the  leaves  chan- 
nelled and  glaucous.  There  are  many  doubts  whether  this 


126  A  GUIDE   TO  FLORICULTURE. 

flower  is  a  mere  variety  of  the  Carnation,  or  a  distinct  spe- 
cies of  itself.  I  do  not  pretend  to  be  a  botanist,  therefore 
cannot  tell  if  there  really  be  a  distinction  between  the  two. 
I  have  saved  the  seeds  of  the  Carnation  and  sown  them,  the 
result  being  nothing  more  to  my  comprehension,  than  Pinks, 
not  one  seedling  having  the  least  affinity  to  the  parent  plant. 
From  this  I  should  judge  the  Carnation  to  be  a  mere  va- 
riety. Then,  again,  when  we  consider  the  risk  of  the  Car- 
nation growers  themselves,  that  are  in  the  habit  of  saving 
and  sowing  their  own  seeds,  it  being  mere  chance  when  a 
Carnation  is  produced.  It  is  considered  that  if  a  grower 
raises  one  new  variety  in  his  life  time,  he  may  be  a  for- 
tunate man. 

The  difference  most  perceptible  in  the  Carnation  is,  that 
it  is  more  robust  than  the  Pink ;  whether  there  exist  in  re- 
ality a  difference  is  as  yet  unsettled  with  the  florist ;  but  so 
far  as  public  opinion  is  concerned  there  is  a  difference. 
They  should,  therefore,  be  treated  as  separate  plants.  Of 
the  Pink  there  are  many  varieties ;  all  are  not  florists'  flow- 
ers. Of  the  common  kinds,  the  "Pheasant's  Eye"  is  the 
best,  and  the  treatment  of  one  is  applicable  to  all  but  the 
fine  kinds,  which  are  managed  like  the  Carnation.  The 
Pink  is  more  hardy  than  the  Carnation,  and  will  strike 
more  readily  from  cuttings.  This  has  been  the  principal 
way  of  propagating  them,  until  recently,  when  it  was  dis- 
covered they  would  grow  readily  from  slips,  and  make 
stronger  plants  in  less  time  than  by  pipings. 

To  propagate  from  seed,  the  best  plan  will  be  to  sow 
them  in  March,  in  pans  or  boxes,  and  when  six  leaves  are 
formed,  transplant  them  into  a  bed  about  four  inches  apart, 
and  in  September  transplant  them  to  where  they  are  intend 


GARDEN   PINK.  127 

ed  to  flower.  The  Pink  will  never  flower  to  that  perfection 
it  would  do,  if  removed  after  that  month.  The  best  time  to 
slip  Pinks  is  early  in  the  spring  or  the  last  of  August. 
They  must  be  shaded  until  the  plants  begin  to  grow.  If 
you  increase  by  pipings  it  should  be  done  in  June,  or  the 
beginning  of  July,  in  the  following  manner : — Take  a  large 
pot  or  box,  fill  it  with  a  light  rich  soil,  one  third  part  sand 
and  well  incorporated ;  let  the  receiver  be  full  to  the  top, 
and  water  it  well  with  a  watering-pot.  This  done,  take 
the  pieces  intended  for  piping,  and  cut  them  through  the 
third  joint  from  the  end  with  a  sharp  knife,  and  trim  the 
tops  if  you  wish  to  plant  them  thick ;  they  should  never  be 
closer  than  one  inch  each  way.  As  you  cut  the  pipings, 
throw  them  into  a  bowl  of  water  to  give  them  firmness  j 
then  take  a  bell  glass  and  mark  its  size,  the  same  as  recom- 
mended for  cuttings ;  then  insert  the  pipings  about  half 
their  length,  and  gently  water  them  to  settle  the  soil. 
When  the  grass  is  dry,  put  on  the  glass  to  exclude  the  air, 
and  remove  them  to  the  shade. 

The  glass  should  never  be  placed  on  until  the  grass  is 
dry ;  this  precaution  must  be  observed  whenever  you  water 
them.  If  close  covered  they  may  not  require  any  for  the 
first  ten  days.  The  soil  must  always  be  kept  damp,  and 
when  you  perceive  the  pipings  begin  to  grow,  admit  air  by  v 
degrees.  Should  the  weather  be  favorable,  and  proper  at- 
tention be  paid  to  them,  in  about  six  weeks  the  plant  will 
be  sufficiently  rooted  to  transplant.  They  should  then  be 
treated  the  same  as  full  grown  plants.  The  soil  for  Pinks 
should  be  a  rich  sandy  loam.  In  the  latter  part  of  March 
loosen  the  soil  around  the  plants  without  disturbing  their 
roots,  and  place  some  sifted  manure  around  them,  which 


128  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

will  much  improve  their  flowers.  When  the  plants  begin 
to  spindle  up  to  flower,  the  safest  way  will  be  to  put  sticks 
to  them  and  tie  them  up,  as  their  stems  will  be  brittle ;  this 
will  prevent  accident.  The  character  of  the  Pink  is  simi- 
lar to  the  Carnation  (with  the  exception  that  its  dimensions 
are  much  smaller) ;  it  flowers  nearly  at  the  same  time,  from 
June  to  July,  depending  entirely  on  the  season. 

The  Pink  is  easily  crossed,  as  it  seeds  freely,  wtth  the 
exception  of  the  larger  and  very  double  kinds.  The  pro- 
cess of  crossing  should  be  performed  very  early  in  the 
morning ;  and  the  pollen  should  be  transferred  to  the  flower 
two  or  three  times  in  the  day.  If  the  flower  begins  to 
fade  within  twenty-four  hours  after  the  operation,  you  may 
conclude  your  object  has  been  effected.  A  mild  day  is  the 
best  for  the  operation.  A  1-arge  bed  of  Pinks  make  one  of 
the  best  shows  known  in  the  floral  line.  Their  fragrance 
is  delightful,  surpassing  all  conception.  The  Pink  is  most- 
ly cultivated  for  the  beauty  of  its  flowers ;  but  the  Clove 
Pink  is  the  one  selected  for  medical  purposes,  possessing  a 
strong  aromatic  odor,  which  resembles  the  clove ;  the  taste 
is  a  sweetish  bitter,  and  astringent.  The  properties  of  the 
Clove  Pink  are  easily  extracted  with  alcohol  or  water,  and 
by  distillation  a  fragrant  oil  is  obtained,  which  is  used  with 
other  medicine.  In  Europe  there  is  a  great  trade  made  in 
this  line  of  business  by  the  cottagers,  in  whose  gardens  this 
evergreen  perennial  can  be  seen  during  m.d-winter,  when 
every  other  plant  is  suffering  by  the  inclemency  of  the 
winter. 


GERANIUM.  129 

GERANIUM. 

(PELARGONIUM.) 

"•  Thine  excellence  is  of  a  rare  degree, 
Though  praised  by  others,  'tis  unknown  to  thee; 
In  humble  deeds  of  love,  and  kindly  care, 
To  these  earth's  riches  own  no  share ; 
By  acts  of  mercy,  all  unseen  of  men, 
By  silent  victory  over  pride  and  sin, 
By  faith,  and  hope,  and  charity  on  earth, 
Thou  provest  to  others  thy  transcendent  worth." 

On  this  beautiful  yariety  of  evergreen  perennials  much 
eloquence  has  been  lavished  by  many  writers,  and  justly 
so,  for  no  green-house  plant  will  better  justify  the  grower 
in  having  a  house  devoted  to  them  in  particular.  This  will 
enable  the  florist  to  bring  them  to  that  perfection  that  could 
not  be  attained  in  a  house  of  mixed  plants.  No  flower  sells 
better  in  the  market  than  the  Geranium.  This  is  sufficient 
proof  that  it  is  a  general  favorite.  There  are  extensive  cata- 
logues containing  many  hundred  with  names.  There  is  a 
great  sameness  of  colors  in  many,  yet  all  are  cultivated  as 
choice  florist's  flowers.  In  making  a  selection,  a  person 
should  go  into  some  extensive  establishment,  and  select 
about  twenty  that  may  be  distinct ;  beyond  that  number  the 
amateur  should  not  go  for  distinct  ones. 

The  Geranium  was  originally  imported  from  the  Cape 
of  Good  Hope  into  different  parts  of  Europe,  where  the  in- 
dustry of  the  florist  made  it  manifest  their  skill  had  been 
put  in  requisition,  from  the  vast  number  of  hybrids  pro- 


130  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

duced.  Some  of  the  old  varieties  possess  an  agreeable  odor, 
but  are  inferior  in  flowers,  and  unworthy  of  being  placed  in 
a  good  collection.  It  is  observable  that  when  nature  has 
been  chary  in  awarding  a  sweet  and  delicate  perfume, 
she  has  been  more  lavish  in  their  beauty,  which  has  been 
the  case  with  this.  It  has  not  only  beautiful  flowers,  but 
they  often  appear  in  large  trusses,  making  some  of  the  plants 
appear  a  perfect  sheet  of  beauty.  Hybridizing  was  not  so 
well  understood  until  the  father  of  that  system  (Mr.  Sweet, 
an  English  florist)  commenced.  Colvill,  Dennis,  and  Garth 
afterwards  appeared,  and  still  propagate.  By  their  indus- 
try we  get  new  varieties  annually ;  and  it  is  to  be  hoped 
they  may  meet  with  a  corresponding  remuneration. 

The  Geranium  is  of  easy  culture,  generally  speaking, 
though  some  hybrids  are  more  difficult  than  others,  without 
a  propagating  house.  When  this  is  the  case  the  amateur 
should  abandon  them  for  other  varieties.  The  seeds  should 
be  sown  in  the  spring,  in  a  pan  or  box  of  light  rich  soil, 
and  when  the  plants  have  formed  six  leaves,  pot  them  sin- 
gly into  two  inch  pots,  and  regularly  water  them.  When 
the  pots  are  filled  with  roots,  shift  them  into  one  a  size 
larger,  and  in  the  fall  into  one  of  four  inch,  giving  them  a 
good  drainage,  and  treat  them  the  same  as  full  grown 
plants.  In  February  the  plants  should  be  shifted  again 
into  one  a  size  larger,  and  the  top  soil  removed  without  dis- 
turbing the  roots,  and  fresh  soil  put  in  and  watered  to  pro- 
mote their  growth.  In  July,  after  your  plants  are  done 
flowering,  cut  them  down,  and  repot  the  old  roots  into  a 
three  inch  pot ;  the  plant  will  flower  tolerably  well  the  next 
season.  The  tops  should  be  converted  into  cuttings  by  cut- 
ting them  through  the  fourth  joint  from  the  top  with  a  sharp 


GERANIUM.  131 

knife,  and  trimming  the  leaves ;  then  stick  them  round  the 
pan  as  previously  directed  for  cuttings ;  place  them  in  the 
shade  and  keep  them  moist,  and  in  six  weeks  they  will  be 
well  rooted  and  ready  to  pot  off,  and  be  placed  into  their 
winter  quarters.  The  cuttings  will  flower  to  perfection 
in  the  spring,  which  makes  it  necessary  to  propagate  every 
season. 

The  Geranium  is  tender,  and  will  not  stand  frost,  and 
should  therefore  be  kept  in  a  place  where  the  cold  will 
never  be  below  the  freezing  point.  Should  the  thermome- 
ter fall  to  26°  Fahrenheit,  where  your  plants  are,  remove 
them  into  a  dark  place,  when  the  frost  will  come  out  grad- 
ually. No  ill  effects  will  then  result ;  but  if  you  take  them 
into  a  room  where  light  is,  and  the  room  warmer  than 
where  frosted,  you  will  lose  your  plants ;  neither  does  this 
plant  like  a  damp  place  for  the  winter,  which  is  injurious. 
The  Geranium  should  never  be  placed  out  of  doors  before 
the  last  of  May,  when  all  danger  of  frost  is  over.  All  these 
little  items  should  be  borne  in  mind  by  the  amateur,  as  one 
night  may  derange  all  your  hopes. 

The  soil  best  suited  for  this  plant  is  one  third  rotten  ma- 
nure, from  an  old  cucumber  bed,  and  two  thirds  sandy 
loam,  well  incorporated  and  exposed  to  the  weather  for  three 
months  before  used.  The  season  of  potting  will  depend 
more  on  your  plants  than  any  set  time,  as  you  must  be 
guided  by  circumstances.  July  is  the  best  time  to  cut  them 
down,  or  they  may  be  delayed  until  August  if  you  have  ta- 
ken cuttings.  When  your  plants  are  attacked  with  the 
green  fly,  you  must  either  smoke  them,  or  make  soap  suds 
with  whale-oil  soap ;  the  latter  is  the  safest  plan,  and  done 
with  the  least  trouble. 


132  A   GUIDE    TO   FLORICULTURE. 

GLADIOLUS. 

(GLADIOLE.) 

This  charming  genera  of  bulbs  is  a  native  of  the  Cape 
of  Good  Hope,  and  is  deservedly  one  of  the  most  interest- 
ing we  have  in  cultivation  from  Africa.  It  is  now  attract- 
ing much  notice  among  florists,  and  many  new  hybrids 
have  been  added  to  the  list,  that  are  beautiful.  The  com- 
mon Gladiolus  has  been  in  cultivation  for  some  time,  and 
is  known  as  the  "  Sword  Lily,"  on  account  of  the  forma- 
tion of  the  leaf.  G.  communis  and  G.  byzanthus  are  the 
oldest  varieties,  and  are  hardy.  G.  cardinalis  and  G. 
floribundis  are  more  tender,  and  decidedly  more  splendid, 
as  the  development  of  their  flowers  will  manifest. 

The  Gladiolus  is  easily  propagated  by  seeds  or  off- 
sets. It  is  useless  to  raise  from  seed  with  the  expecta- 
tion of  new  varieties,  unless  the  flowers  are  impregnated, 
for  the  seed  will  produce  none  but  its  own  kind  ;  artificial 
fecundation  must  therefore  be  attended  to,  if  you  wish  new 
rarieties. 

The  seed  should  be  sown  in  pans  in  August  or  Septem- 
ber, and  should  have  the  morning  sun  only,  and  care  must 
be  taken  that  the  rain  does  not  rot  them.  In  October  the 
pans  should  be  removed  into  a  pit  or  green-house  until 
April,  and  then  exposed  to  the  open  air,  but  must  not  be 
allowed  to  freeze,  when  the  seeds  begin  to  grow.  In  the 
fall,  when  the  leaf  dies  down,  take  them  up  and  pack  them 
in  sand  until  the  following  April,  then  plant  them  in  a  bed 
by  themselves  in  a  sandy  loam  soil.  These  seedlings  will 


GLADIOLUS.  133 

not  flower  until  the  third  or  fourth  year,  when  the  labor 
you  have  bestowed  will  be  fully  compensated  with  some- 
thing new,  and  in  all  probability,  interesting-.  These 
bulbs,  with  the  exception  of  the  two  first  named,  should 
not  be  planted  until  the  danger  of  frost  is  over,  for  without 
due  caution,  you  may  lose  your  bulbs.  If  early  flowers 
be  the  object,  plant  them  in  pots  to  forward  them,  and  keep 
them  in  the  house  or  pit,  from  thence  to  the  garden  in  May. 
These  bulbs  increase  readily  by  offsets,  some  varieties  mo«re 
than  others.  G.  communis  and  G.  byzanthus  should  be 
planted  in  October,  and  will  stand  the  winter  and  flower 
early. 


GLOXINIA. 

"  Who  can  paint 

Like  Nature?     Can  imagination  boast, 
Amidst  this  gay  creation,  hues  like  hers  1 
And  can  he  mix  them  with  that  matchless  skill, 
And  lay  them  on  so  delicately  fine, 
And  lose  them  in  each  other,  as  appears 
In  every  hud  that  blows?     If  fancy  then, 
Unequal,  fails  beneath  the  pleasing  task, 
Oh !  what  can  language  do." 

This  beautiful  plant  is  a  native  of  South  America,  and 
has  hitherto  been  treated  as  a  tender  stove  plant ;  but  on  a 
better  acquaintance  with  its  habits  in  cultivation,  this  has 
been  clearly  proved  not  to  be  the  case.  It  is  easily  culti- 
vated by  any  amateur ;  and  indeed  such  proofs  have  been 


134  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

adduced  as  have  thoroughly  convinced  those  of  the  "  old 
school"  that  by  a  different  treatment,  better  and  more 
gorgeous  flowers  are  now  produced  than  when  treated  as 
a  stove  plant. 

The  Gloxinia  was  named  after  a  botanical  writer  by 
the  name  of  Gloxia,  and  was  deservedly  bestowed  in 
honor  of  his  deep  researches  into  the  nature  of  plants,  so 
much  so  that  he  was  considered  the  most  enlightened 
'person  on  that  subject.  The  great  secret  (if  such  it  may 
be  called)  in  its  culture,  is  placing  it  in  a  state  of  rest, 
which  we  find  applicable  to  all  tropical  plants.  The  shape 
of  the  flower  is  somewhat  between  the  Bignonia  and  the 
Canterbury  Bell,  but  it  hangs  down  like  the  Foxglove,  and 
the  ribs  or  stripes  impart  a  richness  not  easily  described. 
I  think  that  by  impregnation  the  field  of  improvement 
in  raising  new  varieties  must  be  great,  more  particularly 
as  this  genus  of  flowering  plants  continue  to  produce 
magnificent  and  unsurpassed  flowers  during  the  whole 
summer,  making  it  one  of  the  most  desirable  bulbs  in 
cultivation,  and  to  those  acquainted  with  their  culture,  one 
of  the  easiest. 

In  order  to  obtain  this  plant  on  the  cheapest  scale,  it  will 
be  necessary  to  sow  the  seeds  in  March,  in  a  light,  rich 
soil,  and  if  forwarded  in  a  hot  bed,  they  will  frequently 
flower  the  first  summer.  When  your  plants  are  of  suffi- 
cient size,  that  is,  when  your  plants  have  formed  about  the 
fourth  leaf,  transplant  them  into  four  inch  pots,  and  keep 
them  in  a  moderately  shaded  situation,  and  sufficiently 
watered  to  keep  them  in  a  growing  state.  In  September 
begin  to  give  less  water;  in  November  cease  altogether, 
and  place  them  in  a  pit  or  dry  cellar,  free  from  frost,  and 


GLOXINIA.  135 

let  them  remain  dormant  until  spring-.  In  the  month  of 
March,  it  will  be  necessary  to  shake  the  dirt  from  them, 
and  repot  into  one  of  five  inches,  with  a  good  drainage; 
let  the  soil  be  such  as  you  can  procure  from  some  ra- 
vine in  the  woods,  composed  of  rotten  wood  and  leaves, 
intermixed  with  the  sediments  washed  from  stones,  which 
form  like  sand ;  the  bulbs  should  be  planted  nearly  on  a 
tevei  with  the  soil. 

These  plants  are  found  on  the  margin  of  woods,  in  their 
native  country,  and  we  should  imitate  their  nature  in  soil 
and  habit  as  near  as  possible,  to  induce  them  to  flower  pro- 
fusely. After  being  potted,  it  will  be  found  necessary  to  be 
careful  in  giving  them  water,  until  several  leaves  are 
formed ;  then  you  may  occasionally  water  over  the  foliage 
until  the  flowers  begin  to  show,  which  will  be  about  the 
last  of  May.  If  a  small  portion  of  guano  were  mixed 
with  the  water,  I  have  no  doubt  benefit  would  result  in 
making  the  plants  more  vigorous,  and  the  flowers  more 
strikingly  beautiful. 

The  cultivation  of  flowers  prompts  us  to  endeavor  to 
find  the  easiest  mode  of  propagation.  The  following  will 
be  advantageous  to  beginners : — By  sowing  seeds,  if  the 
flowers  are  impregnated,  we  raise  new  varieties  ;  when 
these  varieties  are  fine,  either  in  color,  shape,  or  size,  then 
we  commence  propagating  them  ;  and  what  is  singular  in 
the  Gloxinia  is,  that  if  you  plant  any  part  of  the  leaf,  pro- 
vided the  rib  in  the  middle  be  attached,  it  will  soon  form 
itself  into  a  bulb,  and  make  a  good  flowering  plant  the 
next  season.  It  also  seeds  freely,  and  ere  long  we  shall  b« 
furnished  with  catalogues  as  lengthy  as  those  of  the  Fuch- 
sia. This  plant  does  not  in  reality  require  so  much  atten- 


136  A   GUIDE   TO    FLORICULTURE. 

tion  as  many  others  of  higher  reputation,  but  of  less  in- 
trinsic merit,  for  when  they  flower,  nothing  more  is  re- 
quired than  watering  when  necessary,  and  the  beauty  of 
the  flowers  possesses  all  the  requisites  desirable  to  enchant 
our  admiration.  It  would  be  a  great  improvement  to  place 
moss  on  the  top  of  the  pot  which  would  give  the  flowers 
a  better  contrast,  and  take  off  the  rough  appearance  of  the 
soil. 


HOLLYHOCK. 

(ALTILEA  B.OSEA.) 

"  Thy  long  lost  praise  thou  shalt  regain : 

Dear  shalt  thou  be  to  future  men, 
As  in  old  times ; — thou,  not  in  vain, 
Art  Nature's  favorite." 

This  is  an  old  but  one  of  the  most  beautiful  deciduous 
biennials  of  our  flower  garden,  flowering  from  July  to 
September.  It  is  a  native  of  China,  and  is  of  the  Marsh 
Mallow  tribe.  Before  the  Dahlia  mania  became  so  great, 
it  was  the  most  attractive  border  flower  in  England ;  still, 
however  beautiful  the  Dahlia  may  be  considered,  the  Hol- 
lyhock has  not  lost  any  of  its  ornamental  beauty,  for  let 
the  season  be  rainy  or  dry,  this  flower  still  retains  its 
beauty  and  vigor.  Not  so  with  the  Dahlia.  Fashion  may 
have  reduced  the  demand  for  this  plant,  but  its  beauty  is 
still  pre-eminent,  and  will  retain  its  place  in  the  heart  of 


HOLLYHOCK.  137 

those  fond  of  good  flowers.  This  plant  will  grow  some- 
times eight  feet  high ;  the  stem  is  upright  and  hairy,  the 
leaves  cordate,  fine,  seven  angled,  crenate,  rugose.  The 
flowers  axillary,  sessile.  The  natural  color  is  red,  but 
there  are  now  over  twenty  colors  enumerated  in  this  varie- 
ty, and  this  change  has  been  effected  by  the  industrious 
bee,  going  from  flower  to  flower,  elucidating  the  following 
lines : — 

"  From  the  nectaries  of  hollyhock, 
The  humble  bee,  e'en  till  he  faints,  will  sip ;" 

Then  crossing  and  recrossing  until  this  flower  may  be 
considered  at  the  ne  plus  ultra  of  perfection.  These  flow- 
ers, when  placed  in  a  stand,  like  Dahlias  exhibited  for 
show,  have  a  beautiful  appearance,  equal  to  any  flower 
cultivated. 

The  seed  should  be  gathered  on  a  fine  day  and  preserved 
until  spring,  and  then  planted  in  any  garden  soil.  In  no 
case  should  a  single  flowering  plant  be  allowed  to  grow 
in  a  collection  if  you  pride  yourself  upon  a  good  one. 
When  the  young  plants  are  of  sufficient  size,  transplant 
them  into  the  borders,  around  the  garden,  in  cloudy 
weather.  From  the  nature  of  their  growing  tall,  their 
appearance  will  be  the  most  conspicuous,  and  not  inter- 
fere with  plants  of  more  humble  growth ;  the  soil  should 
not  be  rich,  or  your  plants  will  spindle  up  too  much.  The 
second  season  you  will  be  enabled  to  judge  the  merit  of 
the  flower,  and  if  not  well  formed  and  double,  pull  the 
plant  up  and  try  again  another  season  ;  by  this  mode  you 
may  get  a  choice  collection,  and  when  your  object  is  at- 
tained, and  you  wish  to  keep  tht?m,  you  must  divide  and  re- 
12 


138  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

move  the  plants  every  fall,  or  they  will  run  out.  There 
are  many  plants  that  delight  in  being  removed  j  the  Holly- 
hock is  one  of  that  class. 


HIBISCUS. 

Of  this  family  there  is  a  great  variety,  both  annual  and 
perennial.  Of  the  annuals,  the  African  and  Manihot  are 
best  known  in  the  flower  garden,  being  considered  very 
showy  plants,  and  quite  distinct  in  appearance,  which  is 
not  the  case  with  the  whole  variety.  The  Chinese  variety 
does  not  do  well  except  in  the  Southern  States.  This  is  to 
be  regretted,  as  their  beautiful  scarlet  flowers  make  them 
a  desirable  plant  for  the  green-house.  Of  the  perennials 
most  cultivated,  are  the  White  and  Pink,  both  magnificent 
plants,  exhibiting  large  flowers,  about  five  inches  in  diam- 
eter, beautiful  and  bold.  The  misfortune  is,  they  last  but  a 
day  ;  but  as  they  continue  to  open  others,  some  amends  are 
made  for  the  shortness  of  their  duration.  They  are  propa- 
gated by  seeds,  or  by  dividing  the  roots,  and  should  be 
planted  in  the  border.  If  the  seeds  are  sown  early  in 
the  spring,  they  will  frequently  flower  the  first  season, 
and  improve  in  size  and  beauty,  as  the  plant  advances,  for 
the  first  five  years,  while  it  still  retains  its  noble  appear- 
ance undiminished.  It  is  devoid  of  fragrance.  It  grows 
tall;  is  best  planted  around  the  border,  like  the  Holly- 
hock, and  needs  no  further  care  after  being  transplanted, 
than  cutting  off  the  flower  stems  when  done  flowering. 


HELIOTROPE.  139 

HELIOTROPE. 

(HELIOTROPIUM  PERUVIUM.) 

"  There  is  a  flower  whose  modest  eye, 
Is  turned  with  looks  of  light  and  love, 
Who  breathes  her  softest,  sweetest  sigh, 
Whene'er  the  sun  is  bright  above." 

This  is  one  of  our  general  favorites,  and  is  much  culti- 
vated in  the  green-house,  and  the  parlor.  It  was  discov- 
ered by  Jussieu,  a  celebrated  French  botanist,  in  Peru. 
Along  the  Cordilleras  it  is  found  very  plentiful,  diffusing 
its  delightful  fragrance,  from  whence  the  seeds  were  collect- 
ed and  sent  to  France.  By  this  means,  it  found  its  way 
into  the  parterres  of  the  fashionables  of  Europe.  This 
plant  is  ornamental,  sweet  scented,  and  flowers  nearly  the 
whole  year,  making  it  one  of  the  most  indispensable  in 
cultivation.  The  leaves  are  oblong,  lanceolate,  in  appear- 
ance much  like  the  common  sage  of  the  garden ;  it  is 
shrubby  in  its  natural  state,  with  spikes  of  flowers,  numer- 
ous, aggregate,  corymbose,  and  of  a  bluish  lilac  color.  It 
generally  attains  the  height  of  two  feet;  will  grow  readily 
from  cuttings  taken  off  early  in  the  spring,  until  fall.  It  is 
in  nature  tender,  and  must  never  be  left  out  of  doors  in 
frosty  weather,  or  it  will  be  destroyed.  In  the  spring, 
when  all  danger  of  frost  is  over,  it  may  be  turned  out  ol 
the  pot  into  the  open  ground,  and  will  grow  luxuriantly, 
and  make  quite  an  imposing  appearance  with  its  large 
corymb  of  beautiful  flowers.  The  last  of  September  this 


140  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

plant  should  be  taken  up  and  potted  (the  soil  a  rich,  sandy 
loam),  watered,  and  brought  into  the  house.  This  flower, 
when  planted  in  the  open  ground,  like  the  Sunflower,  will 
turn  with  the  sun ;  but  in  cloudy  weather  it  will  droop. 
The  situation  most  desirable  in  the  open  ground  is,  where 
the  sun  can  have  all  its  influence  on  the  plant.  As  a  pot 
plant  it  is  desirable  in  any  room. 


HYDRANGEA. 

(HYDRANGEA  HORTENSIA.) 

This  is  another  of  our  universal  favorite  flowers  which 
is  to  be  found  in  the  humble  dwellings  of  the  poor,  as  well 
as  the  mansions  of  the  wealthy.  It  was  first  introduced 
into  the  King  of  England's  garden  at  Kew,  about  sixty 
years  ago,  and  was  imported  from  China  by  Sir  Joseph 
Banks.  The  flowers  of  this  perennial  rooted  plant,  in  its 
primitive  state,  are  of  azure  blue,  but  cultivation  has 
wrought  a  change  in  their  color.  It  flowers  all  the  sum- 
mer, the  cymes  are  radient,  leaves  elleptical,  narrower  at 
each  end,  toothed,  and  smooth.  It  does  not  fall  to  our  lot 
to  see  them  in  their  natural  color,  which  necessarily  inca- 
pacitates us  from  judging  correctly  if  culture  be  in  reality 
an  improvement  or  not.  The  circumstance  of  its  turning 
blue  so  seldom  makes  one  of  that  caste  truly  desirable.  I 
have  tried  several  compositions  to  change  the  color  of  the 
flowers,  but  without  effect. 


HYDRANGEA.  141 

The  Hydrangea  is  one  of  the  few  plants  that  appear  to 
thrive  even  when  no  care  is  taken  of  them.  Still  I  would 
not  advise  or  advocate  s-ueh  looseness  in  any  person  that 
has  the  least  pretension  to  the  culture  of  flowers.  I  re- 
collect an  anecdote  of  a  nurseryman  in  London,  who  was 
celebrated  for  selling  blue  Hydrangeas,  which  commanded 
a  great  price,  for  several  years  ;  but  all  at  once  his  stock 
run  out ;  he  had  none  but  pink.  It  appeared,  in  the  sequel, 
that  he  bad  purchased  several  loads  of  peat  soil,  with  which 
he  potted  his  plants,  little  suspecting  the  effect  its  quality 
would  produce  on  his  flowers.  When  the  blooming  season 
arrived,  he  was  agreeably  surprised  at  the  effect.  This  in- 
duced him  to  keep  the  balance  expressly  for  that  purpose  ; 
and,  as  long  as  any  of  the  soil  lasted,  he  could  meet  all 
demands.  To  his  mortification,  he  coukUnot  find  the  man 
of  whom  he  purchased,  neither  could  he  procure  any  soil 
to  produce  the  same  effect,  consequently  he  was  in  the  pre- 
dicament of  Othello,  "his  occupation  gone."  I  have  no 
doubt  from  the  greediness  of  the  plant,  that  soil  procured 
from  marshy  grounds,  dried  and  sifted,  would  be  good.  It 
is  said  that  iron  filings  will  turn  the  color  of  the  flower. 
If  such  be  the  case,  why  not  a  yellow  sandy  loam  of  a  red- 
ish  cast,  be  good,  which  contains  a  certain  portion  of  iron? 
This  is  easily  to  be  obtained  from  the  brick  yards.  Turf 
laid  by  for  a  year  to  rot,  is  a  good  composition,  mixed  with 
rotten  leaves.  In  short  the  plant  will  grow  in  almost  any 
soil,  but  the  color  is  difficult  to  change. 

The  Hydrangea  is  of  easy  culture,  and  will  strike  root  at 
any  time,  when  not  in  a  state  of  rest ;  this  is  from  the  time 
the  leaf  begins  to  drop  until  the  buds  swell  in  the  spring. 
The  best  time  to  pot  the  plants  is  in  March,  and  instead  of 


142  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

shaking  the  soil  from  the  roots,  as  with  some  plants,  take 
a  large  knife  and  cut  the  roots  off,  leaving  a  hall  in  the 
centre,  containing  the  main  body,  of  the  size  of  a  large  ap- 
ple. Then  take  your  compost  and  fill  the  pot,  placing  the 
ball  with  the  plant  in  the  centre.  I  would  not  advise  a 
large  pot,  as  it  would  be  better,  in  the  month  of  June,  to 
shift  the  plant,  without  disturbing  the  roots,  into  a  pot 
larger.  By  adopting  this  plan,  your  plant  will  become  more 
thrifty,  and  bloom  more  beautifully  with  a  larger  head  of 
flowers. 

This  plant,  possessing  such  a  desire  for  water  in  the 
summer,  should  be  kept  in  pans  made  on  purpose,  and  be 
filled  every  day  or  two,  and  be  kept  in  the  shade,  for  the 
sun  or  want  of  water  will  make  them  flag.  In  the  begin- 
ning of  October,  take  them  out  of  the  pans  and  water  them 
sparingly  until  the  middle  of  November,  then  place  them 
in  a  cellar,  and  water  once  in  two  or  three  weeks,  until 
March,  when  you  must  bring  them  forward,  re-pot,  &c., 
but  guard  them  from  the  spring  frost. 

The  Hydrangea  is  hardy,  and  will  stand  out  with  pro- 
tection, but  will  flower  better  if  kept  in  the  house.  It  is 
injured  more  by  the  sun  than  frost ;  avoid  both. 


HONEYSUCKLE.  143 

HONEYSUCKLE. 

(OAPREFOLIUM  PERICLYMENUM. ) 

"  That  sweet  Honeysuckle  which 

Is  fair  as  fragrant ." 

The  Woodbine  wild, 

That  loves  to  hang,  on  barren  boughs  remote, 
Her  wreaths  of  flowery  perfume." 

This  delightful,  fragrant  shrub,  is  a  native  of  Great 
Britain,  and  is  found  growing  wild  in  the  hedges  and  lanes 
of  that  country  ;  flowering  from  May  to  July,  and  filling 
the  air  with  the  most  delightful  and  pleasing  fragrance 
known  (particularly  after  a  shower),  far  surpassing  the 
Sweet  Brier.  The  flowers  are  capitate,  terminal ;  the  leaves 
deciduous,  distinct. 

This  plant,  although  common  in  England,  is  cultivated 
much  as  a  shade,  giving  rusticity  to  the  poor  man's  cottage, 
imparting  life  and  simplicity,  as  well  as  ornament.  Of  the 
Woodbine  Honeysuckle,  there  is  a  large  family  found  in 
almost  all  countries,  and  the  major  part  are  well  calculated 
for  the  trellis,  affording  a  good  shade,  or  they  can  be  nailed 
to  the  side  of  a  house.  This  family  of  plants  is  well 
calculated  for  the  open  flower  garden. 

The  Woodbine  family  should  be  trimmed  every  season 
to  make  them  flower  better,  and  not  allowed  to  straggle. 
They  should  be  fastened  well  in  case  of  rain,  or  their 
weight  will  break  them  down.  This  family  of  decidu- 
ous shrubs  is  easily  propagated  by  cuttings  in  the  spring  or 
fall,  or  by  layering  ;  and  will  grow  in  any  common  garden 


144  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

soil.  When  by  age  or  otherwise  they  become  naked  for 
some  distance  from  the  ground,  injuring  their  appearance, 
cut  them  down  to  within  a  foot  of  the  ground ;  this  will 
make  them  put  out  young  wood  near  the  roots,  and  in  the 
following  season  they  will  flower  again.  There  is  an  ever* 
green  variety  (Loniccra  Jlexuosa),  that  flowers  all  the  sea- 
son, which  may  be  considered  the  best  of  this  family.  It 
is  a  native  of  China,  and  should  be  treated  the  same  as 
others.  The  beautiful  dark  green  foliage  of  this  last  named 
variety  is  a  great  ornament,  but  in  the  winter  quite  the 
reverse. 


HYACINTHINE. 

(GRIFFINIA  HYACINTHINA.) 

This  beautiful  exotic,  better  known  as  the  "  Violet 
colored  Griffinia,"  is  a  native  of  Brazil,  and  was  first  im- 
ported into  Europe  in  1815.  It  bears  some  alliance  to  the 
Amaryllis  family.  The  climate  of  Europe  is  too  humid 
for  it,  but  no  doubt  in  the  delightful  clime  of  the  Ohio  Val- 
ley, it  could  be  brought  to  great  perfection.  This  rare  and 
valuable  plant  is  thought  to  possess  considerable  beauty. 
The  color  is  a  rich  blue,  the  same  used  by  some  of  the 
ancient  painters,  made  by  the  calcination  of  the  stone 
called  lapis  lazuli,  therefore  not  to  be  surpassed  ;  this  rich- 
ness and  softness  of  tint  are  perceptible  in  this  flower 
alone.  Its  magnitude  and  novelty  of  color,  with  a 


HYACINTHINE.  145 


pleasing  physiognomy,  make  it  indispensable  in  the 
house  or  parlor.  The  leaves  are  two  or  three,  recumbent, 
ovate,  oblong,  prettily  veined,  crossing  the  longitudinal 
nerves,  being  thus  both  novel  and  interesting  ;  flowers  in  a 
sub-capitate  umbel  funnel  shape,  and  gaping,  composed  of 
six  segments  of  pure  white  in  the  centre,  with  a  delightful 
broad  ultra-marine  blue  margin. 

The  Hyacmthine  does  not  grow  over  a  foot  high  j  a  de- 
sirable height.  It  should  be  grown  in  five  inch  pots,  well 
drained  in  a  maiden  soil,  with  a  small  portion  of  sand. 
This,  like  all  other  South  American  plants,  requires  a  time 
of  rest,  which  is  during  the  winter  months,  when  it  must 
be  kept  from  frost.  It  needs  no  water  while  dormant.  In 
the  spring,  when  the  bulbs  begin  to  grow,  give  a  little  wa- 
ter as  the  plant  increases  in  growth,  also  increase  the  quan- 
tity, and  when  in  flower  and  while  perfecting  its  foliage,  be 
liberal  in  the  supply;  upon  this  depends  much  of  your 
success  in  growing  and  flowering  it  to  perfection.  This, 
combined  with  a  clear  atmosphere,  will  make  it  one  of  our 
best  bulbs  in  cultivation.  When  the  leaves  die  down,  it 
can  be  either  re-potted  or  packed  away  until  spring.  The 
bulb  should  never  be  placed  over  one  third  deep  in  the 
soil. 


146  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 


HYACINTH. 

(HYACINTHUS  ORIENTALIS.) 

**  Shade  loving  Hyacinthus !  thou  comest  again, 
And  the  rich  odors  seem  to  swell  the  flow, 
And  the  lark's  song,  the  red-breast's  lonely  strain, 
And  the  songster's  tune,  best  sung  where  wild  flowers  blow, 
And  ever  sweeter  where  the  sweetest  glow." 

This  very  prepossessing  bulbous  flowering  plant  is  a 
native  of  the  Levant,  and  is  quite  common  about  Bagdad, 
where  it  flowers  very  profusely  in  its  native  state  in  the 
spring,  at  the  same  time  as  with  us ;  being  highly  fragrant, 
makes  it  very  desirable.  The  bulb  is  glabrous,  succulent, 
sending  forth  a  scape  with  a  spike  of  flowers  of  funnel  shape, 
half  six-cleft,  ventricous  at  the  base ;  some  are  single  and  oth- 
ers double ;  the  latter,  strictly  speaking,  is  the  florist's  flower; 
but  the  single  are  gaining  favor  fast,  and  more  sought  after 
for  early  flowering  in  glasses.  The  double  is  certainly 
more  desirable  for  beds  or  borders  of  the  flower  garden. 
The  single  emits  its  fragrance  more  sensibly,  and  its  spikes 
are  more  studded  with  bells  than  the  double,  and  for 
this  reason  they  are  more  sought  after,  to  flower  in 
glasses. 

The  Hyacinth  has  been  cultivated  in  Europe  above 
three  hundred  years,  and  was  imported  by  the  Dutch  orig- 
inally from  the  Levant ;  and  it  appears  that  the  climate  of 
Holland,  more  especially  about  Harlem,  is  more  congenial 
to  its  culture  than  any  other  part  of  Europe,  arid  the  Dutch 
florists  have  bestowed  much  pains  on  it.  It  appears  that 


HYACINTH.  147 

the  first  double  flower  was  produced  by  one  Peter  Voer- 
helm,  during  whose  life  a  double  Hyacinth  was  worth 
about  five  hundred  dollars  in  the  Harlem  market ;  since 
that  time  a  single  root  has  been  sold  for  one  thousand  dol- 
lars. The  roots  increase  fast,  and  the  mania  being  carried 
high,  competition  caused  a  considerable  decline  in  the 
trade ;  but,  of  late,  bulbs  have  been  sold  as  high  as  fifty 
dollars.  Catalogues  are  published  annually,  both  in  Hol- 
land and  England,  containing  about  two  thousand,  with 
names,  from  a  clear  white  to  what  is  called  a  black.  Blue, 
pink,  and  white  are  the  predominant  colors,  both  single 
and  double.  Yellow  is  not  common,  therefore  rarely  met 
with ;  what  is  so  called  in  the  catalogues  to  the  contrary 
notwithstanding. 

Could  we  see  a  bed  of  these  enchantingly  fine  flowers, 
it  would  fascinate  us  to  such  a  degree,  as  probable  to  give 
a  distaste  to  cultivate  on  such  a  small  scale  as  we  are  com- 
pelled to.  The  bulbs  brought  to  this  country  and  sold,  are 
nothing  but  the  refuse  of  the  Harlem  market ;  still  our 
ideas  on  the  subject  being  somewhat  limited,  make  them 
appear  more  beautiful  than  they  otherwise  would.  I  do 
not  consider  any  place  that  does  not  receive  the  benefit  of 
the  salt  water  breeze,  altogether  congenial  to  the  culture  of 
the  Hyacinth ;  there  are  some  situations  more  suitable  than 
others.  The  Hyacinth  in  this  country,  does  not  flower 
well  over  one  or  two  years.  Eight  years  ago,  when  in 
Europe,  I  selected  some  choice  flowers  from  different  estab- 
lishments, and  the  first  season  they  flowered  well ;  so  that 
my  expectation  was  fully  realized.  As  they  increased  fast, 
I  disposed  of  some ;  the  balance  were  planted  in  my  gar- 
den with  the  same  care  as  the  first  season,  in  full  expecta- 


148  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

tion  of  their  continuing-  fine ;  but  my  surprise  was  great, 
when  I  found  them  the  second  season,  worthless.  I  then 
surmised,  from  their  degenerating,  that  the  climate  was  not 
congenial,  which  opinion  has  been  strengthened  by  expe- 
rience. It  is  still  my  impression  that  if  the  bulbs  could  be 
acclimated,  the  obstacle  would  be  obviated.  I  then  com- 
menced planting  the  small  offsets,  saved  from  the  large 
bulbs  ;  some  flowered  the  first  year  ;  in  the  second,  I  took 
them  up  and  replanted  them  into  another  bed,  at  the  proper 
season,  which  appeared  to  answer  well,  until  the  fourth 
year,  when  the  season  was  rainy  and  nearly  the  whole  rot- 
ted. Thus  my  golden  dreams  vanished,  and  in  some 
measure  I  was  satisfied  it  was  fallacious  to  cultivate  them, 
unless  renewed  every  season,  with  fresh  imported  bulbs  at 
a  cheap  rate.  Still,  it  would  be  as  well  for  others  to  try 
from  offsets,  for  my  being  unfortunate  is  not  sufficient  proof 
that,  others  should  not  succeed.  I  should  therefore  recom- 
mend their  being  planted  in  a  rich  sandy  loam,  from  the 
middle  of  October  to  November,  in  an  open,  airy  situation, 
in  a  bed  four  feet  wide,  which  will  enable  a  person  to  weed 
from  either  side  with  facility.  Have  your  bed  of  any 
length,  according  to  the  number  of  bulbs  to  be  planted. 
Plant  seven  across  at  equal  distance,  and  nine  inches  apart 
the  other  way.  When  you  are  ready  to  plant,  make  a 
channel  five  inches  deep,  and  lay  the  bulbs  on  sand,  which 
will  prevent  water  from  stagnating  or  settling  against  them ; 
and  also  keep  the  bulbs  warm  ;  when  thus  placed,  draw  the 
soil  over  them,  and  when  the  cold  weather  sets  in,  cover 
the  bed  with  manure,  or  tanner's  bark,  about  one  inch 
thick,  to  preserve  the  bulbs  from  the  severity  of  the  frost, 
and  the  deleterious  effects  of  heavy  rains,  both  being  detri- 


HYACINTH.  149 

mental.  In  the  beginning  of  March,  if  the  bulbs  begin 
to  grow,  and  the  weather  is  mild,  it  will  be  necessary  to  re- 
move the  protection  from  the  bed  by  degrees,  as  some- 
times we  have  hard  frost  in  this  month,  which  would  check 
them  much.  In  April,  the  scape  will  begin  to  appear,  and 
about  the  time  the  flowers  begin  to  expand,  it  will  be 
necessary  to  tie  them  to  a  small  stake  neatly,  as  the  rain 
will  beat  them  down,  and  destroy  the  beauty  of  the  corolla, 
or  bells. 

The  Dutch  florists'  plan  is  to  take  the  bulbs  up  about 
four  weeks  after  they  have  done  flowering;  but  in  this 
country,  they  had  better  remain  until  the  foliage  is  entirely 
destroyed.  Some  people  are  desirous  of  flowering  Hya- 
cinths in  glasses,  which,  probably,  from  their  not  succeed- 
ing better  in  this  country,  is  the  best  plan ;  to  effect  this 
object,  it  is  best  to  plant  the  bulbs  in  the  open  ground  in 
October,  to  remain  there  about  six  or  seven  weeks,  to  in- 
duce them  to  throw  out  root  fibres  more  regularly.  Then 
take  them  up,  wash  them  clean,  and  put  them  in  "  Hya- 
cinth Glasses  "  (made  for  the  purpose),  and  fill  up  with 
soft  water,  so  that  the  bulb  will  be  immersed  about  a  quar- 
ter of  an  inch;  change  the  water  whenever  it  becomes 
fetid  ;  they  must  be  kept  in  a  warm  room,  for  if  allowed  to 
freeze,  your  glasses  will  break.  If  the  bulbs  are  not  buried 
before  placed  in  the  glasses,  it  will  be  necessary  to  put 
them  in  a  dark  place  for  some  time  after,  otherwise  they 
will  not  throw  out  root  fibres  regularly,  nor  look  so  well, 
nor  bloom  so  fine.  Bulbs  can  be  put  in  glasses  until  the 
middle  of  January,  with  tolerable  success.  Hyacinths,  thus 
treated,  seldom  flower  the  second  year.  If  you  wish  early 
flowers,  plant  them  in  pots.  They  will  make  a  good  ap- 


150  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

pearance  in  the  parlor,  and  will  do  nearly  as  well  as  if 
planted  in  the  open  ground,  provided  you  do  not  give  them 
much  water.  You  can  forward  them  by  plunging  the 
pots  in  a  hot  bed,  but  if  forced  that  way,  they  will  be  good 
for  nothing  afterwards. 


ISMENE    AMANCfiS. 

This  beautiful  bulbous  rooted  plant  is  a  native  of  Aman- 
caes,  near  Lima,  in  Peru.  It  is  found  in  all  parts  sur- 
rounding that  place  in  great  splendor ;  a  fine,  rich,  deep 
yellow  flower.  It  sends  forth  a  scape  about  thirty-six 
inches  high,  with  several  flowers  six  inches  long,  and  about 
four  inches  across,  and  its  delightful  fragrance  makes  it 
very  desirable  in  all  collections  of  Lileacaes. 

The  bulb  is  not  large,  and  to  grow  it  in  perfection  re- 
quires a  sandy  loam,  and  a  medium  size  pot.  Like  all  the 
Ismenes,  and  its  tribe,  it  requires  a  season  of  rest.  This 
plant  is  much  celebrated  in  Peru  on  the  24th  of  June 
(when  in  bloom),  by  the  natives  of  that  country,  as  the 
Hawthorn  is  in  England  on  the  1st  of  May  :  perhaps  more 
so,  for  the  churches  in  Peru  are  decorated  with  it  at 
that  season. 

This  plant  was  named  Ismene,  after  the  daughter  of 
GEdipus.  It  is  scarce  in  this  country,  but  is  cultivated 
in  England  to  great  perfection.  For  a  fine  description 
of  this  flower,  I  refer  the  reader  to  a  book  entitled  "  A 
Visit  to  the  South  Seas,"  by  C.  J.  Stewart,  M.  A. 


mis.  151 


IRIS. 

The  German  peasant  wreathes  with  flowers  in  rich  attire, 
For  sun-tressed  Iris  weaves  for  him  her  urns  of  fragrant  fire ; 
But  we  have  a  holier  gem  our  lowly  home  to  illume,— 
The  flowers  of  love  our  lattice  lights  with  undecaying  bloom." 

This  is  a  very  numerous  family  of  plants,  useful  as  well 
as  ornamental  in  our  flower  garden.  The  Persian  (Iris 
persica)  is  a  very  pretty  bulbous  rooted  plant,  and  being  of 
a  dwarf  growth,  is  suitable  for  pot  culture,  more  particular- 
ly for  being  rather  tender.  These  bulbs  are  often  brought 
to  this  country  with  others  from  Holland,  and  have  been  in 
cultivation  over  two  hundred  years  ;  they  are  easily  raised 
in  glasses,  like  Hyacinths,  or  in  pots.  This  flower  is  a 
delicate  blue  and  violet  color,  of  great  beauty  and  fra- 
grance, the  latter  predominating  so  much  that  one  plant 
will  perfume  a  room.  If  raised  in  pots,  the  soil  should  be 
a  rich  sandy  loam ;  and  if  potted  in  November,  they  will 
flower  early  the  following  spring. 

To  raise  them  in  the  open  ground  will  require  consider- 
able trouble,  for  the  frost  and  rain  are  alike  injurious; 
neither  does  their  beauty  attract  observation  so  much,  on 
account  of  its  dwarf-like  appearance,  as  when  in  a  pot 

The  Snake's-head  Iris  (Iris  tuberosa)  has  been  in  culti- 
vation much  longer  than  the  Persian ;  this  is  also  imported 
from  Holland.  It  does  not  succeed  well  in  this  country, 
being  hard  to  vegetate.  This,  no  doubt,  arises  from  being 
kept  out  of  the  ground  too  long.  The  Chalcedonian  Iris 
(Iris  susiana)  has  striated  leaves,  with  a  stem  about  one 


152  A   GUIDE   TO    FLORICULTURE. 

foot  high,  of  the  most  beautiful  species,  the  leaves  sword 
shape,  the  stem  erect,  with  one  flower.  It  flowers  in  June, 
and  is  a  native  of  the  Levant,  whence  it  was  imported  in 
1596.  This  species  requires  the  same  treatment  as  the 
Persian.  The  Spanish  Irish  (Iris  xephium)  is  a  native  of 
Europe,  and  is  often  imported  into  this  country ;  the  leaves 
awl-shaped,  channelled  ;  stem  two  flowered,  corolla  blue 
and  yellow,  petals  narrow,  height  two  feet.  This  bulbous 
rooted  plant  has  been  much  improved  by  culture. 

We  have  about  four  kinds  in  cultivation  in  this  country. 
The  most  common  is  the  blue ;  but  in  England,  where  the 
greatest  attention  is  paid  to  their  culture,  their  lists  amount 
to  upwards  of  fifty,  of  all  colors,  and  shades,  and  their 
prices  vary  from  twelve  to  eighteen  cents  each.  The  Great 
Bulbous  rooted  Iris  (English  Iris)  is  much  larger  than 
the  Spanish ;  the  flower  stalk  is  about  twice  as  high,  with 
flowers  in  proportion,  and  equally  as  prolific  in  variety  of 
colors.  They  can  be  purchased  in  London  at  one  dollar 
per  dozen.  The  time  to  remove  these  bulbs  is  from  Au- 
gfUSt  to  September,  and  they  should  never  be  kept  out 
of  the  ground  more  than  six  weeks,  as  it  will  affect  their 
bloom. 

The  two  last  named  varieties  seed  abundantly,  which 
should  be  sown  in  drills  as  soon  as  ripe,  and  the  plants 
will  appear  in  the  spring.  The  fourth  year  they  will 
flower,  thus  repaying  a  person  well  for  his  trouble,  as 
no  attention  is  necessary  but  weeding,  and  a  light  pro- 
tection during  the  severity  of  the  winter  weather.  These 
bulbs  should  be  removed  every  third  year,  for  if  allowed 
to  remain  in  the  same  place  a  longer  time,  they  will  work 
their  way  into  the  ground,  and  be  entirely  lost 


ICE    PLANT.  153 

ICE    PLANT. 

(MESEMBRYANTHEMUM    CRYSTALLINUM.) 

"  Chaste  as  the  icicle  ' 

That's  curdled  by  the  frost  from  purest  snow, 
And  hangs  on  Diana's  temple." 

This  is  a  singular  plant,  and  is  much  esteemed  by  the 
ladies.  It  is  a  deciduous  trailer,  with  large  oval  leaves, 
acute,  frosted,  three  nerves  beneath.  The  root  is  biennial, 
and  is  generally  cultivated  as  an  annual  for  the  parlor.  It 
does  best  in  the  open  ground  where  it  will  cover  a  large 
space,  but  should  be  potted  in  the  fall  and  brought  into  the 
house,  as  it  will  not  stand  the  winter  in  the  open  ground. 
When  the  sun  shines  on  this  plant,  it  appears  to  be  covered 
with  ice,  and  to  the  eye  is  both  brilliant  and  novel.  The 
pellucid  studs  surrounding  the  stern  in  the  summer  appear- 
ing like  ice,  gives  the  plant  all  the  novelty  desirable  for 
the  culture  of  ladies  ;  besides  it  is  a  plant  requiring  but 
little  attention.  It  will  grow  in  any  garden  soil,  and  in 
almost  any  situation,  requiring  but  little  attention  after  the 
seeds  are  sown  in  the  spring.  A  full  exposure  to  the 
sun  is  best,  as  it  displays  its  beauty  more  perceptibly. 
When  the  young  plants  have  formed  four  leaves,  trans- 
plant them  separately  into  two  inch  pots,  and,  as  the  plant 
increases,  shift  them  into  one  of  four  inch,  or  plant  them 
into  the  open  ground.  If  for  pot  culture,  make  a  trellis 
of  some  sticks  for  the  plant  to  be  fastened  to.  The  flow- 


154  A   GUIDE    TO   FLORICULTURE. 

ers  of  this  plant  are  white,  possessing  no  particular  beauty. 
Cuttings  can  be  taken  off  in  the  fall,  and  will  root  readily 
if  not  over  watered. 


INK  FOE  ZINC  LABELS. 

"  Take  one  drachm  of  verdigris,  one  drachm  of  sal 
ammonia ;  powder  half  a  drachm  of  lampblack  to  ten 
drachms  of  water,  mix  them  well  together."  This  will 
make  a  first  rate  article  for  writing  with,  and  will  super- 
cede  the  old  plan  of  placing  names  on  sticks. 


STERSION.  155 

INDIAN   CRESS,  STERSION. 

(NASTURTIUM.) 

"  Then  springs  the  living  herb,  profusely  wild, 
O'er  all  the  deep  green  earth,  beyond  the  power 
Of  botanist  to  number  up  their  tribes; 
Whether  he  steals  along  the  lonely  dale, 
In  silent  search ;  or  through  the  forest,  rank 
With  what  the  dull  incurious  weeds  account, 
Burst  his  blind  way;  or  climb  the  mountain  rock. 
Fired  by  the  nodding  verdure  of  its  brow; 
With  liberal  hand  has  nature  flung 
Their  seeds  abroad." 

This  very  useful  plant  has  been  under  cultivation  two  or 
three  hundred  years,  and  was  first  discovered  in  Peru.  It 
is  known  there  as  the  Mastraco  de  Peru,  and  with  us  by 
the  common  name  of  Stersion.  The  first  account  we  have 
of  this  species,  is  under  the  botanical  name  of  Tropceolum 
major  and  minor.  It  was  cultivated  for  salad,  possessing  a 
warm  flavor,  not  unlike  our  common  cress ;  from  this  alone 
arose  the  name  of  Nasturtium.  The  berries  were  used  for 
pickles,  gathered  when  young  and  tender,  and  by  many 
considered  equal  to  Capers.  Of  late  it  has  been  more  cul- 
tivated for  its  flowers  than  for  other  purposes.  The  most 
common  of  this  species  is  the  yellow,  the  first  introduced  for 
cultivation.  We  have  now  added  to  the  list,  an  orange 
color ;  a  blood-red,  very  rich  in  appearance ;  a  new  spotted, 
so  termed  by  florists,  but  in  reality  striped  ;  orange  scarlet 
color,  and  sweet  scented,  which  makes  the  variety  desirable 


156  A    GUIDE    TO   FLORICULTURE. 

in  every  garden.  There  is  also  a  double  variety,  which  is 
cultivated  in  the  green-house,  but  is  rare  in  this  country,  as 
well  as  many  others. 

We  have  now  to  record  another  new  variety  in  color, 
Tropaolum  azureum,  which  was  first  discovered  by  a  Mr. 
Miers,  in  his  travels  in  Chili ;  the  thing  appeared  so  impro- 
bable among  florists,  that  little  confidence  was  placed  in  the 
statement,  for  it  was  regarded  by  those  versed  in  colors,  as 
matter  of  doubt,  whether  species  of  flowers  that  produce  a 
pure  yellow,  as  the  Stersion,  could  also  produce  the  blue. 
No  analogy  could  be  found ;  for  instance,  we  have  the  dou- 
ble yellow  Dahlia,  but  no  blue ;  a  blue  flower  may  sport  to 
red  or  white,  but,  not  to  yellow.  Again,  yellow  flowers  may 
sport  to  white,  or  red  of  different  shades,  but  not  to  blue. 
The  primitive  color  of  the  Hyacinth  is  a  blue ;  we  often 
see  catalogues  with  yellow  ones  in  it,  but  it  is  a»pale  yellow 
ochre  color,  not  a  bright  yellow.  We  have  the  yellow 
Rose,  but  who  ever  saw  a  blue  one  ?  Neither  have  we 
seen  the  yellow  Pelargonium  (Geranium).  But  to  the  sub- 
ject ;  we  have  to  state  a  fact,  that  Tropaolum  azureum,  a 
blue  Nasturtium,  has  been  introduced  into  England  by  a 
nurseryman  of  Exeter,  which  was  discovered  by  a  Mr. 
Lebb,  near  Valparaiso,  in  South  America.  From  the  no- 
velty of  such  a  plant,  being  in  opposition  to  the  long  argued 
system  of  metamorphosis  of  colors  in  flowers,  it  commands 
a  high  price. 

All  of  this  tribe  will  grow  readily  from  cuttings ;  but  in 
propagating  that  way,  the  plants  are  shy  in  seeding.  This 
plant,  strictly  speaking,  i's  perennial,  but  is  cultivated  as  an 
annual,  except  the  double  variety;  and,  of  course,  the  blue 
will  be  cultivated  the  same  way  for  years  to  come. 


INDIAN    CRESS,    STERSION.  157 

To  propagate  this  useful  and  ornamental  running  plant, 
the  seed  should  be  sown  early  in  the  spring,  and  fastened  to 
a  trellis.  It  is  a  great  bloomer  (provided  the  soil  be  not  too 
rich),  and  will  continue  to  bloom  until  the  frost  destroys 
it.  The  plant  does  not  seed  freely  until  the  evenings  be 
gin  to  be  cool.  When  the  seeds  are  wanted  for  pickling, 
they  should  be  picked  as  soon  as  full  grown  and  plump, 
while  tender,  leaving  some  well  formed  berries  for  seed. 
The  flowers  are  frequently  used  in  garnishing  dishes  for  the 
table,  and  make  a  very  good  appearance  in  a  large  bouquet 
with  other  flowers,  for  the  table  or  mantel  piece,  through 
the  summer.  If  grown  by  cuttings,  and  kept  in  pots  through 
the  winter,  they  should  have  a  rich  sandy  loam,  and  be  wa- 
tered sparingly  in  December  and  January,  and  in  May  be 
planted  in  the  open  ground,  where  they  will  thrive  in  al- 
most any  soil ;  s-andy  loam  is  preferable  to  any  other. 


IPOMCEA   COCCINEA. 

" Who  poured  the  richest  hues, 

In  varying  radiance,  o'er  thine  ample  brow, 
And  like  a  mesh  those  tissued  stamens  laid 
Upon  thy  crimson  lip  —  thou  glorious  flower1? 

This,  as  well  as  all  of  the  Ipomoeas,  bears  a  great  analo- 
gy to  the  common  Bind  Weed  (Convolvulus),  the  latter 
being  annual,  while  the  Ipomcea  is  a  perennial,  and  gene- 
rally fusiform  rooted.  They  are  generally  natives  of  the 
West  Indies,  while  seme  few  are  natives  of  this  country. 


158  A   GUIDE   TO    FLORICULTURE. 

I.  coccinea  requires  to  be  sprouted  in  a  hot-bed,  to  make  it 
flower  early.  It  will  grow  readily  by  cuttings,  and  so  will 
the  whole  tribe.  They  are  decidedly  ornamental.  This 
variety  is  a  beautiful  orange  scarlet,  quite  novel  in  color. 
It  flowers  in  June,  and  lasts  until  late  in  September,  when 
the  roots  should  be  lifted.  The  leaves  of  the  Ipomoea  are 
generally  cordate,  accuminate,  and  angular  at  the  base. 
The  peduncles  are  five  flowered.  The  calyx  warted  and 
bearded,  though  there  may  be  some  little  variation  in  some. 

There  is  one  of  late  introduction,  with  fine  purple  flowers, 
/.  learii;  also  1.  grandijlora^  which  has  large  white  flowers, 
with  a^ite  petals.  To  enumerate  the  whole  tribe  would  be 
consuming  too  much  time  and  space.  Nearly  all  deserve 
the  fostering  care  of  the  florist;  they  are  certainly  some  of 
the  most  desirable  trellis  flowering  plants  we  have,  as  their 
tenurils  will  catch  without  trouble,  and  the  shade  produced 
is  light  and  airy,  at  the  same  time  showing  their  graceful 
flowers  to  advantage  all  the  summer. 

The  Ipomceas  are  raised  by  seeds,  like  the  Convolvulus, 
but  must  be  protected  from  frost ;  being  perennial,  they  will 
not  flower  until  the  second  year;  they  are  therefore  best 
kept  in  a  dry  situation  during  winter,  where  the  rats  or  mice 
will  not  disturb  them.  They  may  be  preserved  with  Dah- 
lia roots. 


JACOBEAN  LILY.  159 

JACOBEAN    LILY. 

(SPREIKELIA   FORMOSISSIMA.) 

"  I  can  find  treasure  in  the  loafy  showers, 

Which,  in  the  merry  autumn  time  will  fall ; 
And  I  can  find  strong  love  in  buds  and  flowers, 

And  beauty  in  the  moonlight  silent  hours. 

There's  nothing  nature  gives  can  fail  to  please, 

For  there's  a  common  joy  pervading  all." 

This  genus  of  flowering  bulbs  is  better  known  under  the 
name  of  "Jacobean  Lily,"  and  is  an  old  variety  of  flowering 
bulbs.  It  was  imported  from  South  America,  where  it  is 
found  in  its  pristine  state  about  ravines.  The  cardinal  beau- 
ty of  this  flower  alone,  has  established  the  merit  of  its  posi- 
tion as  a  desirable  plant,  and  worthy  of  cultivation  in  every 
collection,  however  limited  a  person's  tribe  of  Amaryllideae 
may  be.  It  may  be  considered  as  tender,  and  if  planted  out 
in  the  open  ground  in  April  or  May,  will  flower  well.  The 
tube  is  fringed,  corolla  nodding,  with  a  very  ringent  limb  ; 
stamens  included  in  the  involute  of  the  lower  segments. 
In  October,  when  the  foliage  will  be  sufficiently  matured, 
take  them  up.  The  leaves  should  be  dried  gradually  in  a 
room,  and  then  packed  away  until  the  following  spring. 
This  bulb,  like  the  Amaryllis,  flowers  before  the  leaf  or 
grass  is  expanded;  and  such  is  the  rapidity  of  its  growth, 
that  the  flower  stem  will  be  up  and  the  flowers  expanded, 
taking  you  by  surprise,  in  a  few  days ;  and  if  planted  in  a 
rich  soil,  they  will  frequently  throw  up  two  stems  with  sev- 
eral flowers  at  a  time,  with  such  imposing  rich  crimson 


160  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

scarlet  colors  as  to  surpass  any  velvet  in  comparison  with 
their  richness.  The  flowers  are  not  so  compact  as  the  Am- 
aryllis tribe,  but  their  richness  of  beauty  fully  compensates 
for  that  deficiency. 

The  cultivation  of  Spreikelia  formosissima  is  generally 
confined  to  pot  culture,  in  which  it  will  do  equally  as  well 
as  in  the  open  ground.  They  will  require  attention,  and  a 
shady  situation,  if  confined  to  the  pot.  It  is  said,  if  you  take 
up  the  bulbs  in  the  summer,  and  cut  off  the  foliage  and  root 
fibres,  and  plant  them,  they  will  flower  again  the  same  sea- 
son. I  should  be  loath  to  vouch  for  its  correctness,  having 
never  tried  the  experiment,  but  heard  the  above  related  by 
an  experienced  gardener.  If  true  (which  I  have  no  reason 
to  doubt),  it  must  necessarily  weaken  the  bulb,  and  prevent 
its  flowering  the  following  season;  no  benefit  could  be 
gained  by  such  an  experiment. 

I  would  suggest  to  those  who  wish  to  flower  these  bulbs 
in  pots,  that  after  their  object  is  attained,  the  blest  plan 
would  be  to  sink  the  pot  under  ground,  as  the  bulbs  would 
mature  their  foliage  better ;  for  the  flowering  of  the  Ama- 
ryllidae  tribe  depends  more  on  the  state  of  ripeness  the  leaves 
attain,  than  almost  anything  else.  Their  flowering  the 
following  season  depends  wholly  on  what  state  of  perfection 
the  leaves  are  brought  to ;  it  is  useless,  therefore,  to  expect 
perfection,  unless  the  foliage  be  well  brought  forward,  which 
is  not  apt  to  be  the  case  if  retained  in  the  pot.  The  Ama- 
ryllis does  not  produce  well  if  planted  under  the  soil,  which 
will  account  for  bulbs  generally  not  flowering. 

Spreikelia  formosissima  was  formerly  called  Amaryllis 
formosissima,  but  their  treatment  is  different  from  the  Ama- 
ryllis, although  it  may  be  a  species  of  that  tribe ;  you  must 


JACOBEAN   LILY.  161 

place  the  bulb  two  inches  deep  from  the  surface  soil.  This 
bulb  is  increased  by  offsets,  not  by  seed,  although  the  pollen 
is  perfect  and  abundant,  a  circumstance  that  appears  singu- 
lar ;  whether  arising  from  the  climate  or  what  other  cause 
I  am  at  a  loss  to  tell. 

"  And  now  remains 

That  we  find  out  the  cause  of  this  effect, 
Or  rather  say,  the  cause  of  this  defect, 
For  this  effect  defective  comes  by  cause." 

These  bulbs  can  be  purchased  for  twenty-five  cents  each, 
a  sum  within  the  reach  of  every  person  who  has  the  least 
pretension  to  the  culture  of  flowers,  even  if  not  in  possession 
of  a  flower  garden. 


JAPAN   ROSE. 

(CAMELLIA  JAPONNICA.) 

"  Glorious  Camellian  blooms  to  find, 

In  the  jealous  realms  of  far  Japan, 
Or  the  Epedendron's  garland  twined, 
Round  the  tall  trees  of  Hindostan." 

This  is  one  of  the  most  superb  exotic  plants  we  have  in 
cultivation,  and  endowed  with  natural  beauty ;  it  is  not  only 
interesting,  but  valuable  in  our  estimation.  It  is  moreover 
from  a  country  to  which  we  are  indebted  for  some  of  our 
choicest  gems  in  floriculture. 
14 


102  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

In  this  country  the  Camellia  is  a  green-house  plant.  A 
closer  association  with  this  delightful  exotic,  is  a  sufficient 
proof  that  it  will  do  as  well  in  the  parlor,  and  far  better  in 
a  pit ;  but  it  will  not  flower  as  early,  and  will  withstand 
considerable  frost.  In  England  it  is  frequently  planted  in 
the  open  ground,  but  it  would  not  answer  in  this  country; 
the  cold  nights  in  the  spring  are  generally  accompanied  by 
very  warm  sun  through  the  day,  which  is  enough  to  kill 
any  plant. 

It  was  originally  imported  from  China  and  Japan,  and  is 
a  species  of  the  Tea  Plant.  The  name  Camellia  was  given 
in  honor  of  G.  J.  Kumel,  a  celebrated  botanical  writer  of  the 
Jast  century,  whose  name  in  Latin  was  Camellus.  There 
is  great  symmetry  in  the  form  of  the  leaf,  which  is  a  beau- 
tiful dark  green,  with  a  fine  gloss,  giving  the  plant  a  fine 
appearance  at  all  seasons.  Were  the  leaves  not  so  dark 
there  would  be  some  resemblance  between  it  and  the  Orange 
Tree.  The  flower  in  some  respects  resembles  the  Rose  of 
the  garden  5  hence  arose  the  name  of  "  Japan  Rose."  There 
appears  a  formality  in  them,  as  if  made  of  wax ;  still  their 
hues  are  so  blended  as  to  defy  art  to  imitate  them. 

On  its  first  introduction  the  colors  were  limited,  but  the 
skill  of  florists  has  succeeded  in  hybridizing  them  so  as  to 
produce  hues  innumerable.  This  has  made  the  plant  in- 
dispensable in  all  green-houses,  not  only  as  a  valuable  ac- 
quisition for  the  appearance  of  their  flowers,  but  as  an  arti- 
cle of  profit,  by  cutting  their  flowers  in  the  early  spring. 

This  delightful  evergreen  is  cultivated  to  greater  extent 
in  some  parts  of  Europe  than  England  ;  for  I  perceive,  by 
a  catalogue  issued  by  Mr.  McKay,  at  Leige,  that  he  has 
two  hundred  and  ninety-four  varieties  in  his  collection,  being 


JAPAN   ROSE.  163 

twice  as  many  as  in  any  establishment  in  England.  Many 
new  varieties  have  been  raised  in  this  country ;  several  of 
them,  I  perceive,  have  been  added  to  the  English  collection, 
being  considered  first  class  flowers.  Such  is  the  reputation 
these  flowers  have  attained  in  this  country,  that  it  will  not 
be  many  years  before  our  florists  will  have  a  greater  list  of 
good  flowers  than  any  in  Europe. 

There  are  several  methods  of  propagating  this  plant,  but 
I  will  confine  myself  to  the  most  approved.  To  raise  from 
seed,  it  will  be  necessary  to  sow  them  as  soon  as  ripe ;  some 
Camellia  growers  prefer  sowing  them  in  February,  keeping 
them  in  sand  until  that  time ;  either  will  do.  Plant  the 
seeds  in  the  centre  of  a  small  pot  of  rich  soil,  and  keep  them 
rather  moist.  Unless  you  use  bottom  heat,  the  seed  will 
not  come  up  for  twelve  months;  it  will  generally  flower 
the  third  year.  If  you  discover  one  of  superior  merit,  in- 
crease it  by  inarching  on  the  stock  of  the  single  variety.  If 
your  plant  be  single,  keep  it  to  inarch  on. 

Stocks  for  inarching  are  increased  by  cuttings  from  the 
the  single  red  or  white,  as  well  as  seedlings.  To  increase 
by  cuttings,  it  will  be  necessary  to  lake  them  off  the  last  of 
July,  or  beginning  of  August,  at  a  joint  or  bud.  Young 
wood  is  preferable,  if  not  too  tender  ;  it  should  be  inserted 
in  a  pan  filled  with  soil,  nearly  one  half  sand,  and  must  be 
covered  with  a  bell  glass.  They  will  strike  more  readily 
if  placed  in  a  bark  bed.  The  following  spring  your  plants 
will  begin  to  grow,  and  may  be  potted  off  carefully  in  the 
fall. 

When  of  sufficient  size,  say  from  March  to  August,  they 
should  be  inarched  ;  this  is  considered  the  best  and  most 
approved  way  to  propagate  valuable  and  scarce  varieties. 


164  A  GUIDE  TO   FLORICULTURE. 

Take  the  plant  intended  to  propagate  from,  and  place  it  on 
a  bench  where  it  cannot  be  disturbed ;  then  take  a  knife 
and  cut  a  piece  about  two  inches  long  from  the  side  of  the 
branch  intended  for  the  stock  ;  then  take  the  stock,  and  cut 
it  in  the  same  manner  as  you  did  the  other  plant,  and  as 
near  the  same  size  as  possible ;  when  this  is  done,  take  the 
scion  and  stock  and  place  them  together  j  then  tie  them 
with  bass.  Be  particular  and  make  the  bark  of  each 
meet ;  cover  both  with  grafting  wax,  to  exclude  the  atmos- 
pheric air  from  the  wounded  parts.  The  stock  must  be 
placed  on  a  bench  higher  than  the  large  plant,  and  in  such 
a  position,  that  neither  can  be  disturbed,  or  it  will  fail  to 
unite.  A  great  nicety  is  required  in  the  performance  of  the 
operation.  It  must  be  done  in  a  careful  way,  or  you  will 
not  succeed.  In  six  weeks  examine  the  plant,  and,  if 
found  to  be  united,  tie  it  up  again,  for  fear  of  accident,  for 
three  or  four  weeks  longer,  when  you  may  cut  off  the 
head  of  the  stock,  and  separate  your  plant  from  the  parent, 
with  great  care,  to  avoid  accident ;  then  dispense  with  the 
bandage,  and  treat  the  plant  the  same  as  an  old  one. 

The  first  season,  allow  no  flower  buds  to  grow,  as  it  will 
weaken  the  plant.  The  process  of  inarching  is  easier  de- 
scribed than  performed,  for  unless  a  person  has  seen  the 
operation  performed  he  had  better  pay  an  experienced  gar- 
dener for  instruction.  The  Camellia  is  frequently  in- 
creased by  budding^  which  is  much  practised  in  France 
with  decided  success,  and  is  meeting  with  approval 
amongst  florists  in  this  country.  Every  eye  or  bud 
makes  a  plant,  and  the  budding  can  be  performed  at 
any  time  when  the  bark  parts  freely.  During  this  opera- 
tion, the  plant  should  be  kept  in  one  degree  of  heat ;  it 


JAPAN    ROSE.  165 

is  immaterial  whether  bottom  heat  be  used  or  not,  so  long 
as  the  place  where  the  plant  is  kept,  be  uniform. 

The  operation  of  budding  the  Camellia  is  performed  in 
the  same  way  as  fruit  trees.  I  find  the  Camellia  will  grow 
as  well  in  rich  sandy  loam  as  any  soil,  and  it  should  be 
potted  every  year  or  two,  at  the  farthest,  giving  a  good 
drainage  at  the  time.  The  spring  is  the  best  time  to  attend 
to  it,  immediately  after  done  floAvering. 

The  Camellia  is  a  plant  that  requires  a  deal  of  water  at 
most  seasons,  and  it  should  be  watered  over  the  foliage 
every  evening  through  the  summer,  to  prevent  the  red  spi- 
der from  infesting  it.  In  the  winter,  it  is  best  to  keep 
them  in  a  pit  to  save  trouble,  prior  to  which  wash  the 
plants  all  over  with  soap  suds,  and  syringe  them  with  clean 
water.  To  those  who  have  no  pit,  the  parlor  will  do ;  the 
degree  of  heat  in  the  room  should  be  as  uniform  as  possi- 
ble, rather  cool  than  hot,  just  above  freezing  point,  giving 
them  as  much  air  as  possible  in  mild  weather.  The 
Camellia  will  flower  from  January  to  April ;  if  in  the 
green-house,  earlier ;  but  it  can  be  brought  to  flower  at 
almost  any  season.  In  the  summer,  the  plants  should  be 
kept  in  the  shade,  receiving  the  benefit  of  a  free  circulation 
of  air,  and  the  night  dews. 


166  A   GUIDE    TO   FLORICULTURE, 

JAPAN   LILY. 

(FUNKIA  ALBA.) 

This  Lily  is  a  beautiful  border  plant,  and  has  passed  un- 
der the  cognomen  of  "  Japan  Lily,"  until  lately,  when  bota- 
nists have  discovered  it  does  not  belong  to  the  Hemcrocallis 
tribe  of  plants.  It  is  a  native  of  China,  and  has  been 
much  esteemed  for.  its  fragrant  flowers.  The  roots  are 
tuberous,  and  of  easy  culture,  being  quite  hardy,  throwing 
up  a  stem  in  July,  with  a  number  of  white  fragrant  flow- 
ers. Its  fragrance  is  equal  to  the  common  White  Lily. 
The  leaves  are  a  light  green,  deeply  ribbed ;  foot  stalk  of 
about  four  inches,  which  is  generally  cut  down  with  the 
first  frost  in  the  fall. 

This  plant  is  easily  propagated  by  seed,  or  dividing  the 
roots  in  the  spring  or  fall ;  if  by  seed,  they  should  be  sown 
in  a  pan,  or  box,  and  be  protected  through  the  winter,  and 
brought  forward  in  May.  In  the  fall  they  should  be  potted 
and  treated  the  same  as  full  grown  plants.  It  does  not  do 
go  well  by  pot  culture,  as  in  the  open  ground,  as  the  plant 
sends  its  root  fibres  deep  into  the  soil.  As  a  border  plant 
it  is  desirable,  and  delights  in  a  rich,  sandy  loam.  There 
is  a  blue  variety,  but  the  flowers  possess  no  fragrance,  or 
particular  beauty ;  it  is  therefore  not  so  desirable  as  F. 
Alba. 


JASMINE.  167 

JASMINE. 

(JASMINUM.) 

"  Then,  how  serene !  when  in  your  favorite  room, 
Gales  from  the  Jasmine  sooth  the  evening  gloom." 

Of  the  Jasmine  there  are  several  varieties  in  cultivation, 
both  in  the  hot-house  as  well  as  the  green-house.  The  one 
most  generally  cultivated  is  /.  qfficinale.  a  fine  ornamental, 
deciduous,  climbing  plant,  bearing  white  flowers  of  a  deli- 
cious fragrance,  making  their  appearance  in  June,  and 
which  continue  until  checked  by  the  early  frost.  The 
leaves  are  pinnate  and  acuminate ;  the  heads  generally  up- 
right. This  desirable  fragrant  shrub  was  introduced  into 
Europe  in  1546,  and  was  little  known,  except  by  reputation, 
until  the  latter  part  of  the  seventeenth  century.  This  was 
owing  to  the  selfish  disposition  of  the  Grand  Duke  of  Tus- 
cany, at  Pisa,  the  only  person  known  to  possess  the  plant. 
Nor  would  it  have  been  known  to  the  floral  world  for  years 
after,  had  not  his  gardener  given  a  sprig  in  a  bouquet  to 
his  sweetheart,  which  she  planted ;  and  from  that  same 
sprig  she  propagated  many,  and  sold  them  at  a  high  price. 
To  this  circumstance  we  are  indebted  for  this  gem,  and  no 
thanks  to  the  sordid  inclination  of  a  despot. 

Although  this  plant  is  found  to  be  hardy  in  Europe,  it 
requires  protection  in  this  country,  and  is  consequently 
treated  as  a  pot  plant.  There  is  no  doubt  that  this  shrub, 
when  well  established  in  the  open  ground,  if  laid  down  in 
November,  and  covered  with  mats  until  April,  and  then 


168  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

raised  and  fastened  to  the  trellis,  would  make  one  of  the 
best  arbor  vines  extant ;  the  vine  is  'thrifty  in  growth  :  and 
the  flowers  emit  unrivalled  fragrance  for  a  great  distance. 
The  innocent  appearance  of  the  clusters  of  delicate  white 
flowers,  which  appear  in  such  profusion,  contrasted  with 
the  deep  green  foliage,  throws  quite  an  enchanting  appear- 
ance on  the  surrounding  scene 

"  The  Jasmine,  with  which  the  queen  of  flowers, 
To  charm  her  god,  adorns  his  favorite  bowers; 
Which  brides,  by  hand  of  neatness  drest, 
Unenvied  rival !  wear." 

Then,  again,  we  have  tivo  of  more  recent  introduction, 
bearing  yellow  flowers,  of  more  robust  habit,  not  so  much 
inclined  to  run,  and  nearly  as  fragrant.  These  are  more 
tender  than  J.  officinalc,  and  well  adapted  to  parlor  culture. 
They  should  be  pruned  ever  spring,  to  make  them  flower 
more  abundantly-  Al!  these  varieties  thrive  in  a  rich  sandy 
loam,  and  are  easily  propagated  by  cuttings  in  the  spring, 
managed  in  the  usual  way  of  propagating  by  cuttings.  I 
have  never  discovered  that  these  exotics  form  seeds,  and 
therefore  presume  they  will  not  in  this  country. 

There  is  another  beautiful  and  desirable  variety,  common- 
ly called  the  Cape  Jasmine,  Gardenia  florida,  a  native  of 
China,  which  succeeds  well  in  the  Eastern  and  Southern 
State?,  but  not  in  the  West,  though  this  may  arise  from 
mismanagement.  I  have  always  found  it  to  do  well,  by 
potting  every  spring,  with  the  following  composition: — 
Leaf  mould,  cow  manure  four  years  old,  and  loam,  equal 
parts  ;  then  add  one  tenth  of  the  above  of  sand  well  incor- 
porated ;  and  if  left  out  of  doors  all  the  winter,  and  turned 


JASMINE.  169 

over  occasionally,  «the  better.  The  flower  of  this  variety 
is  as  large  as  a  rose,  hut  not  quite  so  double ;  it  is  delight- 
fully fragrant.  Its  appearance  is  more  like  the  Orange 
Tree  than  the  common  Jasmine,  the  leaves  being  heavier 
ribbed.  It  will  grow  to  a  great  height  in  a  favorable  situ- 
ation and  soil,  and  is  easily  propagated  by  cuttings.  The 
other  varieties  are  not  so  well  known.  The  above  are 
the  best,  easiest  managed,  and  kept  through  the  winter, 
and  of  course  most  desirable. 


LAVENDER. 

(LAVENDULA  SPICA.) 

The  common  Lavender  of  the  garden  is  a  valuable 
shrub,  a  native  of  the  South  of  Europe,  and  grows  from 
three  to  five  feet  high.  The  stem  is  brown  and  woody, 
and  is  divided  into  slender,  straight,  herbaceous,  pubescent 
branches,  with  opposite  sessile,  linear,  and  glaucous  leaves. 
The  flowers  are  small  and  disposed  in  whorls  around  the 
sprouts,  forming  cylindrical  spikes.  The  corolla  is  tubular 
and  labiate,  the  lower  lip  divided  into  segments,  the  up- 
per the  largest ;  with  the  filaments  within  the  tube.  The 
flowers  possess  a  strong  aromatic  odor,  and  contain  a  vola- 
tile oil  which  can  be  procured  by  distillation,  and  is  much 
used  by  perfumers.  The  stem  and  flowers  are  generally 
placed  in  drawers  to  impart  a  fragrance  to  clothes,  and  it  is 
said  that  the  moth  will  not  go  where  it  is  kept.  The  flow- 

15 


170  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

ers  should  be  cut  for  that  purpose  while  the  blossom  is 
expanded,  in  dry  weather ;  they  will  retain  their  fragrance 
for  months  after  being-  dry.  It  is  raised  readily  by  seed 
and  cuttings,  and  will  grow  in  any  garden  soil. 


LEMON   TREE. 

(CITRUS  MEDIC  A.) 

This  ornamental  exotic  was  first  introduced  into  Europe 
about  the  same  time  as  the  Orange  Tree,  and  is  a  native  of 
Persia,  but  is  now  almost  identified  as  indigerrous  to  the 
tropical  climate,  where  it  grows  to  great  perfection.  This 
tree  was  much  cultivated  in  Greece,  in  the  second  century; 
therefore  is  one  of  the  oldest  plants  in  cultivation,  and  re- 
sembles the  Orange  much.  The  leaves  are  larger  and 
possess  a  degree  of  fragrance,  and  are  slightly  indented  ; 
the  foot  stalks  are  destitute  of  winged  parts  which  belong 
to  the  other  species.  The  blossoms  are  a  little  purple  on 
the  outer  surface,  and  the  fruit  differs,  having  a  nipple  at 
the  end  ;  the  color  is  rather  darker. 

There  are  several  distinct  varieties  of  the  Lemon,  which 
are  very  perceptible  on  examination.  It  is  easily  raised 
from  seed  sown  in  the  spring  (those  obtained  from  over 
ripe  fruit  of  the  fruiterers  are  the  best  for  that  purpose). 
The  seed  should  be  dried  before  sown,  and  will  germinate 
freely.  In  the  third  year  the  plants  should  be  budded  in 
July ;  the  soil  a  rich  loam,  and  the  plants  shifted  when  the 


LEMON  TREE.  171 

pots  are  filled  with  roots,  into  one  a  size  larger.  The  best 
time  to  shift  them  is  the  fall ;  for  if  allowed  to  stand  in 
that  condition  through  the  winter,  the  roots  are  apt  to  mil- 
dew. When  the  plants  are  shifted  is  the  proper  time  to 
trim  and  make  them  as  compact  as  possible. 

The  fruit  of  the  Lemon  affords  an  essential  oil  by  dis- 
tillation, the  juice  is  of  essential  service,  possessing  a  pecu- 
liar, pleasant  acid,  and  grateful  to  the  palate,  and  when 
mixed  with  water  and  sweetened,  as  a  summer  beverage, 
denominated  "lemonade,"  it  cannot  be  surpassed  either 
for  the  sick  or  healthy  person.  The  juice  is  also  useful  for 
its  medical  properties,  being  a  specific  for  the  scurvy,  for 
travellers  going  on  long  sea  voyages.  The  rind  of  the 
fruit  is  often  candied,  and  used  in  pastry,  such  as  cakes 
and  puddings.  It  is  the  principal  ingredient  in  the  cele- 
brated "Stoughton's  Bitters." 


LUPIN. 

(LUPINUS.) 

There  are  several  varieties  of  this  hardy  annual  in  cul- 
tivation, which  afford  a  pleasing  prospect  in  the  flower 
garden.  They  are  known  to  many  as  the  "  Sun  Dial." 
The  Lupins  are  natives  of  different  parts  of  Europe,  flow- 
ering from  July  to  September,  in  any  garden  soil.  The 
flowers  are  formed  in  spikes  in  the  shape  of  the  pea- 
blossom,  colors  various.  The  perennial  varieties  of  the 


172  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

Lupin  are  beautiful,  and  are  propagated  by  seed  or  divi- 
sion of  the  roots,  the  same  as  other  perennials.  They  re- 
quire a  rich  sandy  loam  to  grow  them  to  advantage. 


LILY   OF   THE    VALLEY. 

(CONVALLARIA    MAJALIS.) 

"  Seek  the  banks,  where  flowering  elders  crowd ; 
Where  scattered  wide,  the  Lily  of  the  vale, 
Its  balmy  essence  breathes ;  where  cowslips  hang 
The  dewy  head ;  where  purple  violets  lurk, 
With  all  the  lovely  children  of  the  shade." 

This  Lily  is,  generally  speaking,  a  great  favorite.  It  is 
a  native  of  Europe,  and  perennial  in  duration.  The  flow- 
ers are  small,  sweet  scented,  and  found  growing  in  the 
copses  in  England,  bearing  their  beautiful  globe  shape, 
companulate,  white,  drooping  flowers  in  May.  The  scape 
is  half  cylindrical ;  the  leaves  two,  ovate,  lanceolate,  radi- 
cal, something  resembling  the  Tulip,  except  being  slightly- 
striped.  The  modest  appearance  of  this  flower  is  certainly 
a  great  recommendation,  independent  of  its  fragrance.  It 
is  said  that  its  perfume  has  attraction,  and  draws  the  night- 
ingale. This,  I  presume,  is  a  mistaken  notion ;  for  there 
are  other  flowers  in  England  whose  fragrance  is  by  far 
superior  to  the  Lily  of  the  Valley.  It  should  be  borne  in 
mind,  that  the  nightingale  delights  in  retired  situations, 
away  from  the  bustle  and  noise  of  the  farm  house,  like  the 


LILY   OF   THE   VALLEY.  173 

thrush.  These  birds  can  be  heard  of  a  moonlight  night, 
singing  in  concert  with  each  other,  creating  very  pleasing 
sensations  to  the  listener,  though  there  is  something 
melancholy  in  their  "  still,  sweet  voice,"  that  never  fails  to 
charm. 

This  plant  is  not  so  much  cultivated  in  this  country  as 
formerly,  although  easily  managed.  The  situation  should 
be  shaded  from  the  mid-day  sun,  and  airy  at  the  same 
time ;  the  soil  rich  and  rather  moist.  It  is  increased  by 
division  of  the  roots,  which  are  numerous,  and  is  easily  ac- 
complished in  the  fall.  It  does  very  well  when  treated  as 
a  pot  plant. 


LILY. 

(LILIUM.) 

"  The  Lily's  height  bespeaks  command, 

A  fair  imperial  flower, 
She  seemed  designed  for  Flora's  hand, 
The  sceptre  of  her  power." 

Of  this  tribe  of  beautiful  plants,  there  appears  to  be  six- 
teen species,  all  considered  choice  flowers.  The  bulbs  are 
scaly,  with  leaf  stems  growing  from  three  to  five  feet  high, 
of  various  colors  and  shapes.  The  Martagon  or  Turk's 
Cap  is  a  splendid  variety,  but  is  not  calculated  for  this 
climate  ;  the  severity  of  the  winter  kills  them  if  exposed. 
It  is  occasionally  cultivated  in  the  green-house  where  it 


174  A   GUIDE  TO  FLORICULTURE. 

succeeds  very  well.  The  Tiger  and  Orange  variety  are 
quite  cotnmon  in  our  gardens,  and  withstand  our  winters. 
The  former  is  frequently  found  in  the  meadows  in  the 
West.  The  Orange  is  known  by  its  orange  scarlet  flow- 
ers ;  when  the  sun  shines  on  them  they  appear  like  fire, 
and  are  commonly  called  the  Fire  Lily  from  this  circum- 
stance. Both  are  splendid  flowers.  There  are  many 
more,  but  not  well  adapted  for  this  clime,  unless  con- 
fined to  the  green-house.  The  whole  tribe  is  increased 
by  offsets,  which  are  thrown  off  every  season,  more  or 
less.  These  bulbs  delight  in  a  rich  loam. 


LEMON   SCENTED   VERBENA. 

(ALOYSA  CITRIODORA.) 

" Like  the  fragrant  mint, 

o  «       Hid  in  the  umbrage  of  some  lowly  glen, 
Thy  virtues  lie  concealed ;  and  only  love, 
In  its  deep  research,  can  unlock  the  wealth 
Of  thy  benignant  soul,  and  bring  to  light 
Its  hidden  jewels." 

This  delightful,  fragrant  perennial  is  a  native  of  Chili, 
and  is  one  of  the  most  agreeable  plants  in  cultivation. 
The  leaves  are  ribbed,  lanceolate,  and  terminate.  The 
flowers  are  small,  of  a  pale  purple  or  lilac  color,  formed 
in  spikes,  easily  managed.  To  propagate  it,  June  is  the 
best  time.  Take  cuttings  from  two  to  three  inches  in 


LEMON  SCENTED^VERBENA.  175 

length,  and  place  them  in  a  box,  or  pan,  with  a  light 
sandy  soil,  and  cover  them  with  a  bell  glass,  as  recom- 
mended for  soft  wooded  plants.  In  five  weeks  they  will 
be  ready  for  potting  off  Sometimes  the  weather  will  re- 
tard their  growth ;  this  will  be  observable,  for  unless  you 
perceive  them  growing,  do  not  disturb  them. 

When  you  transplant,  take  as  much  soil  as  will  adhere  to 
the  roots,  place  them  in  three  inch  pots,  and  pinch  off  the 
tops.  This  will  give  them  more  strength  by  forming 
more  roots;  then  place  them  in  the  shade;  in  the  fall, 
remove  them  into  the  house,  before  the  frost  sets  in.  If 
you  desire  large  plants,  in  the  last  of  May  place  them 
in  the  open  ground,  where  they  must  remain  until  Sep- 
tember, when  it  will  be  necessary  to  pat  them  off,  and 
trim  them  tolerable  close.  This  will  be  found  necessary 
to  make  thrifty  plants,  as  the  Aloyscu  will  in  one  sea- 
son put  out  shoots  five  feet  long.  This  plant,  from  its 
agreeable  fragrance,  and  easy  management,  has  been  a 
favorite  plant  in  the  green-house  and  parlor.  The  soil 
best  suited  is  a  sandy  loam,  and  it  requires  but  little 
water  through  the  winter  months, 


176  A  GUIDE  TO  FLORICULTURE. 

LONDON   PRIDE. 

(  SAXIFRAGE  UMBROSA.) 

The  London  Pride,  or  None  so  Pretty,  is  an  evergreen, 
ornamental  in  appearance,  perennial  in  duration,  and  bears 
small  whitish  flowers  with  small  spots,  from  April  to  June. 
The  leaves  are  obovate,  retuse,  with  cartilaginous  crenate, 
stem  naked  and  pannicled.  It  makes  a  fine  border  for  a 
bed  in  the  flower  garden.  In  such  estimation  is  it  held, 
that  it  may  be  seen  in  almost  every  cottager's  garden  in 
England,  creating  a  lively  appearance  in  the  depth  of 
winter,  thriving  in  any  situation,  and  is  not  affected  by 
smoke.  It  is  propagated  by  division  of  the  root  in  Sep- 
tember^  forming  the  borders,  and  needs  no  more  atten- 
tion. It  seeds  freely,  and  can  be  increased  that  way,  but 
is  seldom  necessary,  as  it  increases  fast  by  the  roots  and 
will  grow  in  any  garden  soil. 


LAURESTINUS. 

(VIBURNUM  TINUS.) 

This  is  an  evergreen  ornamental  shrub,  a  native  of 
Spain,  and  is  quite  hardy  in  Europe,  imparting  life  and 
beauty  to  the  landscape  all  the  winter.  The  leaves  are 


LAURESTINUS.  177 

ovate,  oblong,  entire,  of  a  dark  green,  bearing  a  corymb  of 
white  flowers  early  in  the  spring,  before  other  shrubs  begin 
to  show  theirs.  It  is  well  adapted  for  parlor  culture,  being 
nearly  hardy,  and  of  easy  culture.  It  is  propagated  by 
layering,  and  will  grow  from  cuttings  taken  off  early  in 
the  spring.  The  soil  should  be  a  rich  loam,  and  potted  in 
the  fall  when  other  plants  are. 


MOCCASIN   PLANT. 

(CYPRIPEDIUM.) 

"  Go!  cull  the  golden  fruits  of  truth; 
Go !  gather  fancy's  brilliant  flowers." 

This  is  a  beautiful  orchideous  plant,  a  native  of  this 
country,  and  found  growing  in  swamps,  near  woods.  The 
flower  bears  some  affinity  to  a  slipper,  and  is  frequently 
called  the  Lady's  Slipper.  It  also  resembles  some  varieties 
of  the  Calceolaria,  hanging  pendulent,  and  is  unique  in 
appearance,  quite  fascinating  to  the  eye.  It  appears  to  be 
difficult  to  manage  in  this  country,  although  a  native  ;  this 
arises  probably  from  not  studying  the  nature  and  habit  of 
the  plant,  a  great  fault  with  cultivators ;  for  without  this 
desideratum,  no  plant  can  succeed  well.  In  Europe  the 
florists  have  a  house  devoted  to  the  orchidacese  order  of 
plants,  which  enables  them  to  succeed  better  in  their  man- 
agement. The  soil  should  be  taken  from  marshy  places. 
The  plants  plentifully  supplied  with  water  when  in  a  grow 


178  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

ing  state,  and  kept  in  the  shade.  When  the  leaves  begin 
to  turn  color,  water  should  be  gradually  withheld.  They 
must  be  kept  in  a  state  of  rest  the  residue  of  the  season, 
and  in  the  spring  should  be  re-potted  and  encouraged  in 
growth.  It  is  perennial,  and  may  be  divided  at  the  root, 
or  raised  by  seed  sown  as  soon  as  ripe.  The  orchideous 
plants,  generally,  are  very  beautiful,  even  beyond  descrip- 
tion; but  are  little  cultivated  in  this  country.  This  is 
probably  owing  to  the  florists  not  being  compensated  for 
their  trouble,  as  but  few  persons  are  willing  to  give  what 
may  be  deemed  a  fair  price  for  them,  when  flowering  plants 
of  a  lower  price  can  be  purchased  to  fill  a  vacuum  these 
charming  flowers  ought  to  fill. 


MYRTLE. 

(MYRTUS.) 

"  Earnest,  I  beg — add  not  with  toilsome  pain, — 
One  far-sought  blossom  to  the  Myrtle  plain, 
For  sure,  the  fragrant  Myrtle  bough 

Looks  seemliest  on  thy  brow." 

This  is  certainly  a  fine  ornamental  evergreen  shrub. 
There  appears  to  be  a  large  family  of  them,  natives  of 
Europe,  New  Holland,  and  different  parts  of  the  globe, 
flowering  from  June  to  August.  The  flowers  generally 
are  solitary,  white,  and  sweet  scented,  the  involucre  two 
leaved.  The  foliage  differs  in  size,  as  the  different  varieties 


MYRTLE.  179 

will  exemplify ;  all  were  held  in  great  estimation  by  the 
ancients,  and  were  dedicated  to  Venus,  the  goddess  of 
Love.  It  was  much  used  by  the  Romans,  in  the  decora- 
tions of  their  triumphant  marches,  when  celebrating  some 
conquest,  and  in  decorating  their  heads  with  wreaths  or 
crowns.  The  plant  is  tender,  and  requires  protection 
through  the  winter.  It  is  easily  managed  as  a  parlor 
plant,  and  will  grow  readily  by  cuttings  at  almost  any  time 
of  the  year,  but  the  spring  is  best  for  that  purpose.  The 
leaves  are  sweet  scented,  the  perfume  being  contained  in 
small  cells,  which  are  perceptible  when  looked  at  with  a 
microscope.  There  is  a  double  variety  (M.  communis  mul- 
tiplex) a  very  handsome  shrub,  of  a  neat  appearance  and 
a  great  bloomer.  There  is  also  one  a  native  of  China 
(M.  tomcntosa),  of  erect  habit,  and  of  a  noble,  command- 
ing appearance.  The  flowers  are  the  largest  of  the  whole 
species,  changing  to  a  purplish  white,  after  being  fully 
expanded. 

One  of  this  tribe  bears  the  allspice  of  commerce,  but  it 
requires  the  hot-house,  and  is  therefore  not  of  much  ac- 
count to  the  amateur.  I  have  seen  the  common  Myrtle 
(M.  communis)  in  England  fifteen  feet  high,  standing  in 
front  of  a  house  having  a  southern  aspect,  which  had 
grown  there  for  many  years  without  protection  ;  when  in 
flower,  it  was  beautiful,  and  an  object  of  public  admiration ; 
a  goldfinch  used  to  build  her  nest  in  it  every  season,  which 
associated  the  most  pleasing  feelings.  I  have  heard,  with 
regret,  that  the  house  has  been  razed  to  the  ground,  and 
the  shrub  destroyed.  It  must  be  evident,  that  this  shrub 
is  held  with  reverence,  as  we  often  see  wreaths  and  gar- 
lands of  the  artificial  substituted  for  the  genuine  at  balls 


180  A  GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

and  parties,  where  it  appears  more  neat  and  .chaste  than  the 
Jasmine.  The  broad  leaf  Roman  Myrtle  is  more  desirable 
than  the  narrow,  and  flowers  more  freely. 

This  plant  should  be  watered  occasionally  over  the 
foliage,  to  preserve  freshness  and  its  incomparable  beauty ; 
when  found  to  grow  straggling  it  should  be  cut  down 
within  six  or  eight  inches  of  the  pot,  when  it  will  form  a 
fine,  bushy  head,  in  one  season.  The  soil  should  be  a  rich 
loam,  and  the  plant  re-potted  every  year  or  two. 

L.  pinciana. — This  is  another  delightful  fragrant  flower- 
ing shrub,  perennial  in  duration,  of  late  introduction  from 
Napul.  It  was  raised  from  seed  by  Wm.  Pence,  of  Exeter, 
England,  a  very  successful  nurseryman  (the  same  person 
that  raised  Fuchsia  cxoniensis,  the  handsomest  flower  of  that 
numerous  tribe  of  plants).  It  is  more  hardy  than  is  generally 
supposed  by  the  English  florists.  The  branches  are  numer- 
ous and  opposite ;  leaves  ovate,  large,  and  entire  ;  flowers 
spreading  in  cymes  at  the  ends  of  small  leafy  branches, 
out-spreading  and  nearly  uniting,  which  form  a  compound 
cyme  or  immense  truss,  nearly  a  foot  over,  giving  the  plant 
a  very  imposing  appearance.  The  color  of  the  flowers  is 
a  creamy  white,  slightly  tinged  with  blush. 

This  plant  was  named  by  Sir  Wm.  Hooker,  and  in  its 
general  character  is  very  similar  to  L.  grotissina,  but 
more  robust  in  habit,  and  in  all  probability  not  so  tender. 
This  shrub  is  increased  by  seeds  and  cuttings  in  a  rich 
loamy  soil.  Its  fragrance  and  easy  culture  will  make  it  a 
general  favorite  in  the  green-house  or  parlor. 


MARTYNIA  FRAORANS.  181 


MARTYNIA    PBAGRANS. 

This  delightful,  fragrant  annual  is  a  native  of  Mexico. 
The  seed  of  the  original  plant  was  sent  from  Real  del 
Monte,  in  1840,  to  England,  where  it  is  considered  the  best 
annual  of  kte  introduction.  The  flowers  are  on  spikes 
arising  from  the  point  of  the  stem  of  the  plant ;  from  the 
base  of  the  first  spike  laterals  proceed,  and  thus,  in  succes- 
sion, the  plant  flowers  the  whole  summer,  affording  a  beau- 
tiful contrast  with  the  Balsam ;  these  plants  should  be 
sown  together,  growing  about  the  same  height,  with  cir- 
cumference in  proportion.  The  whole  plant  is  hairy,  more 
or  less ;  the  flowers  a  fine,  rich,  crimson  purple,  and  their 
fragrance  delightful.  It  is  well  calculated  for  parlor  cul- 
ture, as  well  as  the  open  ground,  growing  two  feet  high. 
It  will  thrive  best  if  the  seeds  are  sown  in  the  fall,  potted, 
and  kept  in  the  parlor  through  the  winter;  but  will  require 
shifting  often  as  the  roots  fill  the  pot. 

It  was  named  after  the  late  John  Martyn,  the  author  of 
several  botanical  works.  There  are  several  other  varieties 
of  the  Martynias,  all  beautiful  plants,  but  M.  fragrans  is 
considered  the  best  and  most  valuable  acquisition  to  the 
flower  garden.  The  soil  should  be  rich,  and  their  general 
culture  the  same  as  the  Balsam.  Therefore,  to  ensure  good 
strong  plants,  if  the  seed  be  not  sown  in  the  fall,  it  should 
be  in  February,  in  a  hot  bed,  and  planted  out  when  all  dan- 
ger of  frost  is  over. 


182  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

MIGNIONETTE. 

(RESEDA  ODOR  ATA.) 

u  No  gorgeous  flowers  the  meek  Reseda  grace, 
Yet  seek  with  eager  trunk  yon  busy  race, 
Her  simple  cup,  nor  heed  the  dazzling  gem 
That  beams  in  Fritillaria's  diadem." 

This  sweet  and  generous  scented  annual  was  imported 
into  Europe  one  hundred  years  ago  from  Africa.  The 
leaves  are  entire,  three-lobed ;  the  involucre  shorter  than 
the  flowerets,  growing  from  twelve  to  eighteen  inches. 
The  flowerets  are  dingy  white,  of  a  delightful  fragrance, 
particularly  grateful  in  a  room. 

This  favorite  is  known  to  the  Dutch  florists  as  the  Egyp- 
tian Bastard  Rocket  5  with  us  and  the  French,  as  Mig- 
nionelte.  Morning  and  evening  the  fragrance  of  this  plant 
is  more  sensible  than  at  other  times.  This  desirable  per- 
fection, in  so  humble  a  plant  in  appearance,  has  made  it  a 
favorite  j  three  plants  are  sufficient  to  fill  a  room  with 
fragrance,  and  make  it  agreeable  to  the  sense  of  smelling  ; 
it  is  thus  in  every  way  desirable  as  a  parlor  plant.  Being 
of  easy  culture,  it  can  be  brought  to  flower  at  any  season 
in  the  year. 

The  soil  should  not  be  rich,  as  it  will  destroy  in  some 
measure  the  sweet  effects  of  its  odoriferous  perfection ; 
therefore,  a  sandy  loam  is  the  best.  It  will  be  necessary 
to  sow  seed  the  last  of  July,  or  beginning  of  August,  to 
have  it  flowering  from  November  to  February.  The  seeds 


MIGNIONETTB.  183 

should  be  sown  in  September,  in  the  open  ground  ;  pot  the 
plants  off  in  four  inch  pots,  gently  water  them,  and  screen 
them  for  several  days ;  then  sink  the  pots  in  the  open 
ground,  guarding  the  plants  against  heavy  rains.  About 
the  first  of  November,  remove  them  into  the  house  to  deco- 
rate the  window  for  the  coming  winter,  where  they  will 
flower  from  December  to  February.  Water  the  plants 
when  necessary,  which  will  depend  on  the  heat  of  the 
room.  If  you  sow  the  seed  in  pots  the  last  of  September, 
you  will  have  flowering  plants  from  March  to  May,  afford- 
ing some  of  the  sweetest  scented  flowers  half  of  the  year, 
in  the  house,  and  amusement  and  pleasure  at  a  season  when 
many  plants  are  out  of  flower. 

It  is  said  there  is  a  variety  of  the  Mignionette,  called  the 
Tree,  of  a  shrubby  nature,  which  is  increased  by  cuttings 
as  well  as  by  seed.  There  appears  to  me  a  doubt  on  the 
subject,  for  the  Mignionette  we  cultivate  as  an  annual,  by 
trimming  and  training,  will  attain  a  great  height,  and  if 
allowed  to  spread  after,  will  in  some  measure  appear 
shrubby,  and  live  a  long  time.  From  this  circumstance, 
I  suspect,  has  arisen  the  idea  of  the  Tree  variety.  If  there 
be  another,  it  must  be  scarce,  and  has  not  found  its  way 
into  general  cultivation. 


184  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 


MESEMBRYANTHEMUM 

Of  these  splendid  succulent  plants,  there  is  a  numerous 
family,  natives  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  most  of  which 
are  green-house  plants,  flowering  from  June  to  September. 
This  tribe  is  easily  propagated  by  cuttings,  taken  off  in 
the  spring  or  fall,  and  watered  sparingly  at  first.  They 
are  well  calculated  for  rock  work,  and  do  well  in  the  open 
ground,  planted  in  a  bed  in  May,  about  eighteen  inches 
apart.  The  dwarf  kinds  should  be  placed  nearest  the 
path ;  they  require  less  water  than  those  of  a  more 
vigorous  growth,  which  should  be  in  the  middle.  To 
make  them  flower  well,  the  sun  should  be  allowed  its  full 
influence,  or  the  flowers  will  not  expand  to  perfection. 
They  will  require  to  be  watered  every  day;  and  your 
trouble  will  be  well  paid  with  a  splendid  display  of  showy 
flowers.  In  October  the  plants  should  be  taken  up  and 
potted.  Give  them  good  drainage  and  water  sparingly 
through  the  winter.  It  will  be  found  that  plants  three 
years  old  will  flower  best,  and  they  are  best  suited  for  the 
open  ground.  The  soil  should  be  a  rich  loam,  with  one 
eighth  of  sharp  sand.  Some  of  the  Mesembryanthemums 
will  live  out  all  the  winter  in  the  Southern  states,  if  pro- 
tected from  the  rain. 


MARVEL  OF   PERU,   OR    FOUR   O* CLOCK.  185 

MARVEL  OF  PERU,  OR  FOUR  O'CLOCK. 

(MIRABILIS  JALAPA.) 

"  Wake,  then,  from  thy  sunset  bower, 
Spread  thy  leaves,  my  pretty  flower ! 
Spread  thy  leaves,  unclose  thine  eyes, 
For  the  silver  moon  doth  rise, 
And  the  golden  stars  are  corning." 

This  is  quite  a  common  perennial,  and  of  considerable 
beauty,  but  is  generally  treated  as  an  annual.  It  is  indi- 
genous to  the  West  Indies,  and  is  known  better  as  the 
"  Four  o'Clock."  There  are  several  varieties,  all  bearing 
handsome  flowers.  It  is  fusiform  rooted  (that  is,  tuberous), 
flowering  from  June  until  the  frost  destroys  it  The  flow- 
ers are  in  clusters,  stalked,  and  the  leaves  smooth,  forming 
a  well  shaped  bush,  about  three  feet  high.  The  flowers 
seldom  expand  before  four  in  the  afternoon,  hence  its  name 
Four  o'Clock.  The  expanded  flowers  make  a  very  bril- 
liant and  beautiful  appearance  in  the  cool  of  the  evening. 
It  will  grow  in  any  soil,  is  easily  cultivated,  and  will 
flower  the  first  season  from  seed.  This  is  the  reason  why  it 
is  treated  as  an  annual.  Like  the  Dahlia,  when  it  is  cut  down 
by  the  frost,  the  root  should  be  taken  up  and  preserved ; 
and  in  the  spring  sprouted  with  the  Dahlia.  It  will  grow 
readily  from  cuttings,  and  will  produce  much  better  flowers 
than  when  produced  by  seedlings  of  one  year's  standing. 


16 


186  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

MONKEY   FLOWER. 

(MIMULUS.) 

This  interesting  variety  of  flowers  is  principally  from 
Chili  and  California.  It  is  an  annual  of  easy  culture, 
stem  smooth,  leaves  denticulate,  slightly  hairy,  with  smooth 
ribs ;  calyx  smooth ;  teeth  equal,  sharp  pointed,  turning 
backwards ;  corolla  twice  the  length  of  the  calyx  ;  stamens 
shorter  than  the  corolla ;  peduncles  twice  as  long  as  the 
calyx.  The  beauty  of  this  flower  has  induced  the  florist 
to  exert  his  skill  in  hybridizing  it  with  decided  success. 
The  one  called  M.  Smithii,  is  one  of  the  finest  in  cultiva- 
tion, being  a  cross  with  M.  revularis  and  M.  variegatus. 
Mr.  Smith,  of  Islington,  has  met  with  much  success  with 
this  tribe  of  plants.  The  one  named  after  him  is  distinctly 
marked  with  spots  on  the  petals,  and  laced  round  the  ex- 
tremity ;  the  lower  lip  of  the  flower  has  three  dark  marks, 
and  the  yellow  is  of  a  deep  and  rich  color.  Besides  these 
perfections,  the  variety  is  an  extremely  abundant  bloomer, 
which  still  adds  to  its  worth. 

'  The  seed  should  be  sown  in  the  fall,  in  pots,  and  pre- 
served through  the  winter,  when  it  will  flower  early  in  the 
spring.  The  soil  must  be  a  rich  loam.  It  will  do  well 
in  open  ground,  but  shows  to  better  advantage  in  a  pot,  as 
a  parlor  plant,  or  in  the  green  house.  It  is  also  increased 
by  dividing  the  roots,  or  by  cuttings  taken  ofT  in  the  spring 
and  summer. 


MARIGOLD.  187 

w:: 

MARIGOLD. 

(CALENDULA.) 

"  The  Marigold,  that  goes  to  bed  with  the  sun, 
And  with  him  rises  weeping." 

This  is  a  numerous  family  of  long  established  plants, 
which  has  been  in  cultivation  ever  since  1683.  It  is  of 
easy  culture,  by  sowing  the  seeds  in  April:  when  the 
plants  are  large  enough,  transplant  them  to  where  they 
are  intended  to  flower.  Persons  wishing  to  cultivate  them 
to  perfection,  should  be  particular  and  save  the  largest 
flowers  for  seed,  and  destroy  all  those  that  are  not  wholly 
double,  or  your  variety  will  soon  degenerate  to  the  single 
kinds,  which  are  not  worth  cultivating.  Generally  speak- 
ing, they  will  accommodate  themselves  to  any  soil,  and 
where  grown  will  scatter  their  own  seed,  and  come  up  in 
the  spring.  Such  gratuitous  plants  should  never  be 
saved,  as  no  dependence  can  be  placed  on  them  as  double 
flowers  ;  therefore  be  more  careful  of  the  choice  seeds,  if 
you  desire  good  flowers.  Linnaeas  has  remarked  that  the 
Marigold  opens  regularly  at  nine  in  the  morning,  and 
closes  at  three,  and  generally  turns  with  the  sun,  like  the 
Helianthus. 

I  will  name  a  few  of  the  varieties  cultivated  at  present, 
though  some  are  old  plants,  but  not  common.  C.  grami- 
nifolia,  the  grass  leaved  Marigold,  is  a  perennial,  and  is 
increased  by  division  of  the  roots.  Between  the  leaves  rise 
naked  peduncles,  nine  inches  long,  bearing  one  flower  at 


188  A   GUIDE    TO    FLORICULTURE. 

the  top,  of  the  size  of  the  common  Marigold,  with  a  pur- 
ple bottom  ;  the  rays  are  purple  without,  but  white  within. 
These  flowers  only  expand  when  the  sun  shines;  they 
close  in  the  evening,  and  remain  closed  in  cloudy  weather. 
They  appear  from  April  to  May,  when  they  are  in  the 
greatest  perfection.  They  will  flower  again  in  the  fall ; 
from  this,  one  would  suppose  that  warm  weather  was  ob- 
noxious to  the  flowers,  were  it  not  from  the  circumstance  of 
their  opening  only  when  the  sun  shone  on  them.  This 
variety  was  introduced  from  the  Cape  in  1698, 

C.  vi-'cosa  is  another  plant  from  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope, 
with  a  shrubby  stem,  and  upright ;  the  bark  is  of  a  grayish 
color ;  the  branches  are  herbaceous  ;  the  leaves  covered 
with  a  shiny  substance ;  leaves  alternate,  sessile,  and 
decumbent  along  the  branches  ;  flowers  large  and  red,  ap- 
pearing in  April  and  May.  This  green-house  plant  was 
introduced  in  1790. 

C.  chrysanthemum  is  the  Cape  Marigold,  an  herbaceous 
plant,  covered  with  a  harsh  pubescence ;  blooms  freely 
most  of  the  summer,  and  is  ornamental ;  flowers  yellow. 

C.  tragus  is  another  variety,  about  three  feet  high,  with. 
a  weak  stem,  which  requires  support  while  in  flower. 
It  is  yellow  within  and  purple  without,  and  fragrant, 
which  is  not  the  case  with  all  this  family  of  plants.  It 
will  grow  readily  from  cuttings. 

C.  arvcnsis,  the  field  Marigold,  is  a  native  of  Germany, 
and  nearly  allied  to  the  garden  variety.  It  has  been  cul- 
tivated ever  since  1683. 

C.  qfficinalis  is  the  common  Marigold.  The  most 
essential  difference  between  this  variety  and  the  field 
Marigold  consists  in  the  stems  being  loftier,  with  paler 


MARIGOLD.  189 

foliage,  and  the  middle  of  the  leaves  are  more  blunt,  the 
upper  ones  more  lanceolate.  It  is  a  native  of  France,  and 
has  been  in  cultivation  ever  since  1597 ;  the  flowers  are 
orange  color,  which  continue  most  part  of  the  summer, 
giving  splendor  to  the  flower  garden.  It  was  formerly 
held  in  repute  for  its  medicinal  qualities,  but  the  march  of 
improvement  and  knowledge  has  sent  these  reputed  quali- 
ties to  the  shades  of  oblivion.  The  country  people  of 
England  still  use  the  flowers  in  their  broth,  or  soup.  Set- 
ting aside  the  coloring  matter,  I  am  doubtful  if  there  be 
any  particular  attributes  in  its  use. 

Of  the  Golden  Marigold  there  are  seven  varieties,  all 
considered  showy  flowers  for  annuals. 

C.  pluvialis  is  the  small  Cape  Marigold,  which  is  an 
annual,  much  cultivated  ;  leaves  deeply  indented  on  the 
edge,  of  a  pale  green  ;  stem  declining,  six  inches  long, 
leafy  within  two  inches  of  the  top  ;  stem  leaves  narrower 
and  more  indented  than  those  near  the  root ;  the  stem 
grows  slender  as  it  nears  the  top,  with  the  flowers  at  the 
extremity  like  the  common  Marigold ;  they  open  when  the 
sun  shines,  and  shut  in  the  evening.  When  the  flower 
decays,  and  during  the  time  the  seed  is  ripening,  they  hang 
down  ;  when  fully  ripe,  they  grow  erect  again,  when  the 
cultivator  is  admonished  of  the  time  to  gather  the  seed. 
This  variety  is  a  native  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and 
was  first  cultivated  in  Europe  in  1726.  No  particular  care 
is  required  in  the  culture  of  the  annual  variety,  other  than 
already  named.  Those  of  the  green-house  require  no 
more  than  guarding  them  against  frost,  and  their  flowers 
are  easily  brought  to  perfection. 


190  A  GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

MONK'S   HOOD. 

(ACONITUM.) 

Of  this  tribe  of  herbaceous  perennial  flowering  plants, 
there  appear  to  be  innumerable  varieties.  This  arises 
from  the  easy  access  of  the  bees  in  accumulating  honey, 
and  carrying  the  pollen  from  flower  to  flower,  thus  cross- 
ing the  plants  without  further  trouble.  The  following  are 
the  varieties  most  generally  cultivated.  The  reader  may 
judge  of  the  merits  of  the  different  plants. 

A.  napellus  is  the  Purple  Monk's  Hood.  The  leaves 
are  divided  down  the  petiole,  with  linear,  acute  lobes ; 
ovaries  three,  smooth.  This  species  is  named  from  the 
form  of  the  root,  which  resembles  a  turnip,  and  is  a  strong, 
active  poison ;  flowers  violet  purple,  alternately  on  the 
spikes  ;  stem  erect,,  covered  with  leaves,  and  about  eighteen 
inches  high.  The  ancients  considered  it  a  deadly  poison ; 
and  it  is  frequently  the  case  that  persons  in  smelling  the 
flower,  such  is  the  nature  of  its  deleterious  odor,  will 
swoon  and  have  their  sight  affected  for  several  days.  It 
was  the  custom  in  former  times  to  give  criminals  one 
drachm  of  the  root,  which  was  sufficient  to  destroy  the 
vital  spark  of  life,  so  powerful  is  the  effect  on  the  human 
system.  Many  instances  could  be  recorded,  where  persons 
have  lost  their  lives  by  partaking  of  the  foliage,  by  mis- 
take, with  vegetables.  The  following  experiment,  which 
I  hope  will  not  be  considered  irrelevant,  was  made  by  a 
Mr.  Brodie  :  —  "An  ounce  of  the  juice  of  the  leaves  waj 


MONK'S   HOOD.  191 

injected  into  the  rectum  of  a  cat.  Three  minutes  after- 
wards, he  voided  what  appeared  to  be  nearly  the  whole  of 
the  injection.  He  then  stood  some  minutes  perfectly  mo- 
tionless, with  his  legs  drawn  together ;  at  the  end  of  nine 
minutes  from  the  time  of  the  injection  he  retched  and 
vomited ;  then  attempted  to  walk,  but  faltered  and  fell  at 
every  step,  as  if  from  giddiness.  At  the  end  of  thirteen 
minutes,  he  lay  on  his  side  insensible  and  motionless,  ex- 
cept  some  slight  convulsive  motions  of  the  limbs ;  the 
respiration  now  became  slow  and  labored,  and  at  forty-seven 
minutes  from  the  time  of  the  injection  he  was  apparently 
dead ;  but  the  heart  was  found  regularly  contracting  one 
minute  and  a  half  afterwards,  at  the  rate  of  one  hundred 
times  in  the  minute,  from  which  it  would  seem  that  the 
brain  is  not  directly  necessary  to  the  action  of  the  heart, 
and  when  that  action  ceases,  it  is  rather  in  consequence  of 
the  cessation  of  respiration,  which  is  evident  under  the  in- 
fluence of  the  brain." 

A.  versicolor  is  another  variety  much  cultivated ;  flowers 
smooth,  variegated ;  helmet  low ;  subconical,  and  growing 
about  two  feet  high,  very  firm  in  appearance,  branching 
and  forming  a  fine  pyramid.  It  is  a  native  of  Switzerland. 
It  is  increased  by  tubers  at  the  root,  which  it  produces 
freely. 

A.  pyramidale, — flowers  blue  ;  the  spur  capitate ;  helmet 
closed.  It  bears  a  spike  of  flowers  two  feet  high,  and  is 
the  most  common.  It  flowers  in  May,  and  makes  a  pretty 
appearance  at  that  season.  This  species  is  also  a  deadly 
poison,  and  therefore  ought  not  to  be  cultivated  unless  great 
caution  is  used.  It  is  increased  by  dividing  the  roots. 

A.  venustum  is  a  distinct  variety  from  all  others.     The 


192  A   GUIDE    TO    FLORICULTURE. 

flowers  are  sulphur  yellow,  pubescent  outside.  This  plant 
grows  two  feet  high;  spur  straight,  obtuse;  helmet  conical 
at  the  base.  This  fine  variety  was  introduced  into  Europe 
in  1807,  and  is  a  native  of  Siberia.  There  are  many  more 
of  late  introduction,  in  addition  to  a  numerous  train  of 
hybrids,  bearing  beautiful  flowers,  but  not  yet  common. 

The  Monk's  Hood  is  cultivated  in  this  country  in  the 
green-house,  not  so  much  from  the  tender  nature  of  the 
plant,  as  for  the  richness  of  its  colors,  which  are  in  per- 
fection from  May  to  July.  It  is  well  calculated  for  the 
flower  garden,  and  is  propagated  by  seeds  and  division  of 
the  roots. 

As  a  narcotic,  the  whole  tribe  is  dangerous,  notwith- 
standing the  beauty  and  variety  of  the  flowers.  To  those 
who  have  children,  I  would  say,  it  is  better  to  cast  it 
from  the  garden,  for  one  unfortunate  death  would  cause 
more  affliction  to  the  mind  of  a  parent  than  all  the  culture 
of  flowers  could  alleviate  with  their  gaudy  and  deceptive 
fascinations. 


NARCISSUS. 

"  Narcissus  fair 
As  o'er  the  fabled  fountain  hanging  still." 

Tfyere  appears  to  be  a  large  family  of  these  bulbous 
rooted  perennials,  which  are  readily  increased  by  offsets  at 
the  root.  All  appear  to  thrive  well  in  a  rich,  sandy  loam, 


NARCISSUS.  193 

and  have  been  cultivated  from  time  immemorial.  Nar- 
cissus Tazetta,  Polyanthus  narcissus,  is  a  native  of  Spain, 
and  is  also  found  on  the  coast  of  Barbary.  It  is  one  of  the 
oldest  varieties  in  our  flower  garden;  quite  ornamental; 
and  is  imported  into  this  country  from  Holland,  where  it 
is  cultivated  to  some  extent.  The  word  Tazetta  is  the 
name  for  a  small  cup  which  it  forms  in  the  centre  of  the 
flower  on  a  scape  of  about  ten  inches  high,  with  a  delight- 
ful fragrance ;  it  generally  blooms  in  May  in  the  open 
ground,  but  can  be  brought  to  flower  in  a  pot,  and  be  kept 
in  the  parlor  or  green-house  in  March.  The  flowers  are 
yellow  with  an  orange  color  cup  ;  the  bulb  a  little  tender, 
and,  when  planted  in  the  open  ground,  should  be  protected 
from  the  severity  of  the  winter  months. 

Narcissus  oricntalis,  "Narcissus  of  the  Levant,"  is 
another  fine  variety,  and  differs  from  the  former  in  some 
respects ;  still  there  is  a  great  similitude  in  the  two ;  the 
crown  being  more  triovate  and  crenate,  and  equally  as 
prolific  in  flowers.  Although  the  flowers  are  white,  the 
cups  are  of  a  citron  yellow ;  it  is  ornamental,  and  one  of 
the  best  varieties.  It  is  imported  from  Holland  annually, 
but  is  a  native  of  the  Levant,  and  is  called  by  the  Dutch 
"  Grand  Primo  Citron ienne." 

Narcissus  papyraceus. — The  "  Italian  or  Paper  White 
Narcissus"  appears  to  be  quite  distinct  from  the  above, 
having  a  more  shallow  crown  and  a  more  closely  crenulate 
margin,  and  a  flatter  ancipital  scape.  The  bulbs  are  small 
and  the  corollas  white  or  cream  colored.  This  bulb  is 
imported  from  Italy,  and  is  generally  called  the  "  Roman 
Narcissus."  and  is  also  one  of  the  most  ornamental  in  the 

17 


194  A    GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

whole  class,   and   very  fragrant.     This,   as  well  as  the 
others,  is  rather  tender,  requiring  the  same  treatment. 
Narcissus  Jonquil — 

*'  Nor  gradual  bloom  is  wanting, 
Nor  hyacinth  of  purest  virgin  white, 
Low  bent  and  blushing  inward,  nor  Jonquils 
Of  potent  fragrance." 

The  Jonquil  is  a  very  attractive  species  of  Narcissus, 
quite  hardy,  possessing  a  delightful  fragrance,  flowering 
in  April  and  May.  It  is  often  flowered  in  pots,  and  kept 
in  stands  with  or  near  the  Auricula ;  this,  no  doubt,  is  be- 
cause it  flowers  at  the  same  time,  and  the  sweetness  of 
its  perfume,  mixing  with  that  of  the  Auricula,  diffuses  a 
most  pleasing  and  delightful  treat  in  the  cool  of  the  even- 
ing. The  Jonquil,  when  planted  in  the  open  ground, 
should  not  be  removed  for  several  years,  for  it  does  not 
flower  so  well  if  removed  every  season.  The  spathe  is 
three  flowered  ;  segments  reflexed,  spatulate ;  cup  in  the 
centre  much  shorter  than  the  segment,  spreading  crenate, 
much  like  the  Tazetta,  not  forming  so  many  flowers,  but 
may  be  considered  a  good  parlor  plant. 

The  double  variety  is  suitable  to  stand  in  a  glass  with 
water,  the  same  as  the  Hyacinth. 

Pseudo  Narcissus — 

"  "When  early  primroses  appear, 

And  vales  are  decked  with  Daffodils, 
I  hail  the  new  reviving  year, 
And  soothing  hope  my  bosom  fills." 

The  Daffodil  is  the  most  common  kind  in  cultivation, 
perfectly  hardy,  and  a  native  of  England,  where  it  is  found 


NARCISSUS.  195 

in  the  woods  in  great  profusion.  The  bulbs  are  perennial, 
flowering  in  April  and  May,  throwing  up  a  scape  two 
edged,  with  a  single  yellow  flower  at  the  extreme ;  segment 
of  a  sulphur  yellow,  with  a  serrate,  crenate  orifice ;  it  is 
often  planted  in  bunches  in  the  borders  along  lawns, 
or  round  the  edge  of  beds,  where  it  increases  very  fast. 
From  England  this  bulb  found  its  way  into  Holland, 
whence  it  is  imported  into  this  country  under  the  specious 
name  of  "  Soleil  d'Or,"  thus  disappointing  those  who  pur- 
chase them  under  that  name. 
Narcissus  Poeticus — 

"  Narcissus  on  the  grassy  verdure  lies ; 

But  whilst  within  the  crystal  fount  he  tries 

To  quench  his  heat,  he  feels  new  heats  arise-, 

For,  as  his  own  bright  image  he  surveyed, 

He  fell  in  love  with  th'  fantastic  shade; 

And  o'er  the  fair  resemblance  hung  unmoved, 

Nor  knew,  fond  youth!  it  was  himself  he  loved." 

This  is  the  "  Poet's  Narcissus,"  and  an  old  favorite, 
which  has  been  the  subject  of  many  poems  by  writers  of 
old.  This  highly  scented  bulbous  rooted  plant  bears  a 
white  flower  in  May.  The  segments  are  reflexed,  imbre- 
cate  at  the  base,  cup  expanded,  flat ;  the  anthers  shorter  than 
the  tube ;  leaves  erect  and  narrow.  It  often  disappoints 
expectation,  for  if  the  flower  bud,  before  expanding,  is 
pressed  with  the  finger  and  thumb,  it  blasts  the  flower  and 
prevents  its  expansion.  Indeed  it  may  be  considered  very 
uncertain,  at  the  best ;  for  sometimes  it  will  not  flower  for 
several  years. 

Although  this  flower  has  attracted  so  much  attention  in 


196  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

olden  time,  at  this  day  it  is  hardly  worth  cultivation.  The 
classic  associations  connected  with  it  endeared  it  to  many, 
but  at  the  present  day  it  hardly  commands  a  corner  in  the 
flower  garden.  Such  is  the  result  of  changes  in  the  pub- 
lic mind.  There  are  many  of  this  species  of  bulbs  at 
the  present  day  enumerated  in  the  Dutch  catalogues,  but 
whether  they  are  really  individual  varieties,  is  a  matter  of 
doubt ;  cultivation  alone  will  alter  their  appearance,  par- 
ticularly if  not  attended  to  with  judgment.  It  requires 
the  scrutinizing  eye  of  the  botanist  to  detect  its  real  char- 
acter. Care  and  attention  would  restore  many  to  their 
high  cultivated  state,  while  others  would  retain  their  prim- 
itive standing  as  degenerated  flowers.  Then,  again,  those 
in  a  high  state  of  culture  may  be  crossed,  such  as  Tazetta 
orientalis,  the  Roman  Narcissus  and  Narcissus  tazetta, 
which  no  doubt  would  produce  some  fine  hybrids.  When 
the  Dutch  bring  forward  their  numerous  lists,  we  should 
look  on  it  with  a  suspicious  eye,  for  we  cannot  depend 
on  their  statements  with  much  assurance.  We  may 
meet  with  great  disappointment,  as  in  their  Soleil  d'Or. 


OLEANDER, 


197 


OLEANDER,   OR   ROSE   BAY. 

(NERIUM  OLEANDER.) 

"  There,  on  the  banks  of  that  bright  river  born, 

The  flowers  that  hang  above  its  wave  at  morn, 
Bless  not  the  waters,  as  they  murmur  by, 
With  holier  scent  and  lustre ." 

This  is  a  splendid  variety  of  evergreen  shrubs,  and  quite 
a  favorite.  It  was  imported  into  Europe  as  far  back  as 
1597,  and  is  a  native  of  Asia  Minor,  where  it  is  found 
growing  luxuriantly  along  the  banks  of  rivers  and  swampy 
places.  The  original  color  of  the  flowers  is  a  pink.  There 
is  a  white  variety  in  cultivation  possessing  no  merit  for 
beauty,  and  for  that  reason  is  not  much  thought  of.  There 
is  another  with  a  striped  leaf,  and  one  a  dwarf,  both  bearing 
pink  flowers,  and  desirable  as  parlor  plants.  The  large 
and  common  variety  will  grow  from  twenty  to  thirty  feet 
high,  but  is  getting  into  disrepute,  for  when  so  large  it  is 
difficult  to  manage.  In  the  Southern  States  it  will  do  well 
in  the  open  ground. 

All  of  the  Oleander  family  are  easily  cultivated  in  a  rich 
loam,  and  will  grow  from-  seeds,  cuttings,  or  layers.  To 
increase  from  seed,  they  should  be  sown  in  the  spring,  and 
will  soon  come  up  and  flower  the  second  season.  It  is 
seldom  we  find  a  florist  cultivate  the  single  variety,  unless 
for  the  sake  of  experiment,  it  being  the  only  kind  that  will 
seed.  June  is  the  best  time  to  propagate  from  cuttings, 
when  they  will  strike  root  freely,  if  the  soil  be  kept  damp  ; 
for  that  reason  a  pot  is  the  best  to  strike  them  in,  and  they 


198  A    GUIDE    TO    FLORICULTURE. 

must  be  kept  in  the  shade.  When  rooted,  pot  them  off  and 
treat  them  the  same  as  old  plants. 

When  plants  become-  large,  the  best  plan  is  to  put  them 
in  the  ground  sideways,  so  that  the  top  can  be  bent  down 
with  greater  facility,  and  layer  them  the  same  as  you 
would  the  Carnation  ;  in  six  weeks,  if  well  attended,  they 
will  be  ready  to  pot  off  Many  people  will  plant  them  in 
the  open  ground  in  the  summer  to  save  trouble,  a  plan  that 
ought  to  be  deprecated,  as  the  plant  becomes  too  large  to 
manage,  and  causing  much  more  trouble.  The  best  plan 
is  to  keep  them  in  as  small  pots  as  possible ;  this  will  make 
them  flower  more  freely  5  repot  them  every  fall  or  spring. 
As  the  plants  progress  in  size,  they  should  be  shifted  into 
one  a  little  larger.  This  plant  should  not  be  placed  out  of 
doors  too  early  in  the  spring,  as  one  night's  frost  would  do 
incalculable  injury.  It  will  stand  the  frost  better  in  the 
fall  than  spring. 

When  the  Oleander  is  planted  in  the  open  ground,  and 
lifted  in  the  fall,  great  care  is  necessary  not  to  injure  the 
root  fibres,  or  you  will  make  the  top  of  the  plant  flag,  and 
in  all  probability  it  will  never  rise  again.  The  only  reme- 
dy then  is  to  cut  off  the  tops,  but  you  thus  disfigure  the 
plant.  In  the  winter,  this  plant  must  be  kept  in  the  house, 
out  of  reach  of  frost;  it  will  require  little  or  no  water 
when  in  a  state  of  rest,  which  will  be  from  the  middle  of 
November  to  the  latter  part  of  February.  If  well  man- 
aged, it  will  flower  from  June  until  late  in  the  fall. 


ORANGE  TREE.  199 

ORANGE   TREE. 

(CITRUS.) 

•*  Here  Orange  trees,  with  flowers  and  pendants  shine, 

And  vernal  honors  to  their  autumn  join; 
Exceed  their  promise  in  the  ripened  store, 
Yet  in  the  rising  blossom  promise  more." 

This  exotic  is  an  old  and  much  esteemed  favorite  orna- 
mental tree.  It  is  cultivated  in  the  green-house  and  parlor, 
and  will  bear  considerable  frost,  but  is  best  if  protected. 

This  delightful  fruit  bearing  tree  was  first  introduced  into 
England  in  the  reign  of  Queen  Elizabeth,  in  about  1600, 
and  the  first  is  supposed  to  have  been  planted  by  Sir  Fran- 
cis Carew,  at  Beddington,  in  the  open  ground.  They  did 
well,  but  had  to  be  covered  with  a  shed  through  the  win- 
ter; unfortunately  the  winter  of  1739-40  destroyed  them. 
They  were  considered  a  great  curiosity  in  their  time,  for 
some  had  attained  fourteen  feet  high,  and  their  branches 
extended  fourteen  feet ;  they  were  nearly  two  feet  round 
the  trunk. 

The  Orange  generally  flowers  in  May  and  June;  its 
color  is  white,  the  petioles  winged,  and  the  leaves  ellip- 
tical, acute,  crenate ;  the  fruit  globose,  with  a  yellow  rind, 
possessing  a  sweet,  juicy  flavor ;  they  grow  freely  from 
seed  sown  in  the  spring,  and  the  seedlings  should  be 
budded  in  July  or  August  to  insure  their  bearing  fruit, 
when  two  or  three  years  old.  It  is  supposed  that  the 
Orange  is  a  native  of  Spain,  and  that  it  will  live  for  several 
hundred  years,  under  favorable  circumstances.  It  is  much 


200  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

cultivated  in  tropical  climates,  and  has  become  an  article 
of  commerce  in  all  parts  of  the  globe.  When  treated  as 
a  pot  plant,  it  requires  a  rich  soil,  plenty  of  air,  and  abun- 
dance of  water  in  their  growing  season,  but  little  in  the 
winter,  for  if  over  watered  at  that  season,  it  will  drop  its 
leaves,  and  not  recover  before  the  following  spring. 

There  is  a  large  family  of  the  Orange,  some  edible,  and 
others  cultivated  more  for  ornament  The  whole  tribe  is 
suitable  for  ladies'  culture  in  the  parlor,  and  when  grown 
large  and  difficult  to  manage,  it  would  be  best  to  part  with 
them,  and  recommence  again  with  the  seed. 


PHEASANT'S  EYE,  OK  FLOS-ADONIS. 

(ADONIS  AUTUMNALIS.) 

"  As  many  drops  of  blood  as  from  the  wound 

Of  fair  Adonis  trickled  on  the  ground, 
As  many  tears  as  Venus  shed  in  showers ; 

Both  tears  and  drops  of  blood  were  turned  to  flowers." 

This  is  a  pretty  annual  for  the  flower  garden,  exhibiting 
its  blood  red  flowers  generally  from  May  to  October.  The 
stem  is  branching,  and  grows  about  one  foot  high,  and  the 
leaves  are  three  and  compound ;  the  flowers  cup  shape, 
opening  earlier  or  later,  depending  entirely  upon  the  time 
the  seeds  are  sown.  The  flower  is  a  particularly  bright 
red  color,  the  pericarp  reticulated. 

This  plant  is  familiarly  known  in  the  fields  in  England 


PHEASANT'S  EYE,  OR  FLOS-ADONIS.  201 

as  a  weed.  Its  beautiful  appearance  has  made  it  a  favorite 
in  the  garden,  nearly  as  much  so  as  the  Anemone,  to 
which  it  is  somewhat  allied,  and  may  be  easily  recognised 
with  that  and  its  varieties.  Classic  story  says  this  flower 
sprung  up  where  the  blood  of  Adonis  fell,  and  a  fable  was 
concocted  from  the  circumstance  of  the  wound  being  in- 
flicted by  a  boar,  while  hunting ;  hence  the  name  of 
Adonis  Flower.  The  signification  of  the  Pheasant's  Eye 
is  the  great  affinity  in  color  to  the  eye  of  a  bird  of  that 
name  in  England ;  the  centre  being  black,  and  sur- 
rounded with  a  blood  red.  It  was  formerly  supposed  it 
possessed  medical  properties,  but  the  advance  made  in 
chemistry  has  abandoned  the  idea  of  that  quality.  It  is 
of  easy  culture,  accommodating  itself  to  almost  any  kind 
of  soil.  This,  like  a  few  other  annuals,  if  sown  in  the 
fall,  will  withstand  the  severity  of  the  winter ;  in  the 
spring  it  should  be  transplanted  to  where  it  is  intended 
to  flower.  By  sowing  the  seeds  at  different  periods  it 
can  be  brought  to  flower  at  any  time  in  the  season,  thus 
making  it  a  desirable  plant. 


202  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

PORTULACA. 

(PURSLANE.) 

"  Thou  art  a  reveller  of  day, 

A  fair  rejoicing  child  of  night; 
Glad,  while  the  sun  beams  o'er  their  play, 
But  drooping  in  the  quiet  night." 

Portulaca  thellasoni,  splendens,  and  gilesii,  are  very 
hoary,  half  hardy,  succulent  plants,  of  late  introduction. 
They  are  a  species  of  Purslane,  known  so  well  as  a  weed 
in  our  flower  garden,  and  so  difficult  to  eradicate.  These 
beautiful  plants  are  decidedly  ornamental  in  the  flower 
garden,  bearing  flowers  of  a  showy  description,  of  different 
colors.  It  has  a  procumbent  stem,  and  diffused  branches ; 
leaves  glabrous,  alternate,  and  seldom  opposite  ;  flowers 
terminal  in  four,  one  expanding  at  a  time,  cup  shaped, 
showing  their  beautiful  corollas  only  in  bright  sunshine ; 
stamens  inserted  with  the  plate  in  the  base  of  the  calyx, 
variable  in  number,  all  fruitful ;  capsula  one-celled  ;  seed 
small,  round,  and  numerous,  of  a  lead  color;  when  ripe, 
the  cap  is  thrown  off,  exposing  the  seed  in  a  cup,  and  if 
not  gathered  without  delay,  they  will  be  scattered  by  the 
wind.  The  flowers  last  but  a  day.  As  the  plants  increase 
in  size,  the  more  numerous  are  the  flowers,  and  they  Avill 
continue  to  expand  until  cut  down  by  the  frost.  P.  splcn- 
dens  is  a  rosy  crimson,  P.  thellasoni  orange  scarlet,  P. 
gilesii  a  purple. 

The  Portulaca  or  Purslane  tribe  are  natives  of  the  Cape 
of  Good  Hope,  New  Holland,  and  South  America,  and 


PORTULACA:  203 

many  other  parts,  all  of  easy  culture,  either  by  seed  or  cut- 
tings taken  off  any  time  through  the  summer,  which  will 
grow  in  any  common  garden  soil.  These  plants,  so  lately 
added  to  our  flower  garden,  are  not  only  valuable  for 
their  splendid  appearance,  but  they  make  an  admirable 
pickle.  The  seeds  should  be  sown  early  in  the  spring, 
and  they  will  generally  appear  in  about  thirty  days. 
When  one  inch  high,  they  shoulcl  be  transplanted. — 
Where  a  plant  has  once  flowered,  innumerable  seedlings 
will  appear  early  in  the  spring ;  they  can  be  easily  trans- 
planted. They  are  desirable  for  the  parlor,  and  can  be 
allowed  to  fall  over  the  sides  of  the  pot,  exhibiting  a 
pleasing  effect.  When  in  a  bed  by  themselves,  they  have 
a  magnificent  appearance  beyond  description,  and  should 
be  in  all  well  regulated  gardens. 


PASSION   FLOWER. 

(PASSIFLORA.) 

'*  Who  loves  a  garden  loves  a  green-house  too ; 
Unconscious  of  a  less  propitious  clime, 
There  blooms  exotic  beauty,  warm  and  snug, 
While  the  winds  whistle  and  the  snow  descends." 

This  exotic  beauty  is  a  general  favorite,  and  may  be 
considered  one  of  the  handsomest  climbing  plants  attach- 
ed to  the  green-house.  It  was  named  by  Linnaeus.  The 
plant  is  named  from  passio,  and  fios  a  flower ;  the  cross 


204  A   GUIDE    TO   FLORICULTURE. 

in  the  centre,  surrounded  by  filaments,  is  said  to  be  em- 
blematical of  our  Saviour's  Passion.  This  species  of  flow- 
er has  been  in  cultivation  for  more  than  two  centuries, 
and  comprises  a  numerous  family  from  Asia  and  other 
parts.  The  larger  part  requires  the  genial  warmth  of  the 
green-house  to  bring  them  to  perfection,  while  others  are  de- 
sirable for  the  parlor,  and  can  be  trained  around  the  window 
during  the  summer,  giving  the  room  a  novel  appearance 
with  their  beautiful  flowers ;  in  October  they  can  be  cut 
down  or  twisted  around  a  stick,  and  placed  away  until  the 
following  spring. 

P.  ccerulea  is  hardy,  and  will  live  out  of  doors  with 
a  slight  protection.  The  leaves  are  composed  of  five 
lobes ;  the  flowers  pale  greenish  white ;  the  filaments 
purple  at  the  base,  white  at  the  middle,  and  blue  at  the 
tips.  It  will  continue  to  grow  until  killed  down  by  the 
frost. 

P.  kermesina  is  one  of  the  best  in  cultivation.  It  is 
rather  tender,  but  may  be  brought  to  flower  well  dur- 
ing the  summer  in  the  parlor ;  the  wood  is  rather  slen- 
der, but  free  in  growth,  and  abounds  with  flowers,  which 
are  a  beautiful  crimson,  forming  a  fine  contrast  with  its 
delicate  foliage;  the  leaves  are  three-lobed,  and  the  un- 
der part  of  the  young  leaves,  of  a  purple  cast. 

P.  middletoniana  or  fragrans,  and  P.  actinia,  are 
delightfully  fragrant  varieties.  These,  and  many  others 
are  very  desirable,  but  to  name  all  would  occupy  too 
much  space.  All  the  varieties  will  grow  readily  from 
cuttings  in  the  early  spring,  and  also  from  seed.  The 
pots  must  be  well  drained,  and  should  be  not  less  than 
nine  inches  for  a  full  grown  plant.  The  soil  must  be 


PASSION   FLOWER.  205 

a  rich  loam.  In  summer  they  need  no  further  care 
than  any  other  plant,  which  is  of  a  running  nature ; 
it  is,  therefore,  one  of  the  most  desirable  exotic  trellis 
plants  in  cultivation.  In  the  winter  they  require  but 
little  water,  and  may  be  kept  in  a  pit  or  warm  room, 
but  in  their  growing  season  they  require  abundance 
of  water,  and  the  young  shoots  should  be  kept  free 
from  each  other,  as  they  progress  in  growth;  for  if 
once  entangled,  they  will  be  much  damaged  in  your 
attempts  to  extricate  and  loosen  their  tender  branches. 


PIMPERNEL. 

(ANAGALLIS  ARVENSIS.) 

"  ^ar  bonny  Kate  bound  her  golden  hair, 
•Yith  a  velvet  wreath  for  the  village  fair, 
And  tripped  with  the  grace  of  a  gay  gazelle, 
Where  blushes  the  delicate  Pimpernel; 
For  a  prophetess  true  is  that  lonely  flower, 
She  warns  us  ever  of  tempest  hour; 
When  the  rain-cloud  shadows  her  humble  head, 
Sho  folds  her  petals  of  brilliant  red, 
And  keeps  her  sunny  heart  warm  within, 
Like  a  fair  girl  shutting  out  grief  and  sin." 

This  is  a  delightful  little  annual,  a  native  of  Europe, 
wnose  flowers  appear  to  be  as  sensitive  to  the  changes  of 
*he  weather  as  the  barometer.  It  is  often  called  the 
"  Shepherd's  Weather  Glass."  The  leaves  are  ovate, 


206  A   GUIDE   TO    FLORICULTURE. 

sessile,  and  dotted  beneath ;  the  corolla,  expanding  only 
in  fine  weather,  is  ragged,  glandulouse.  It  will  succeed 
in  a  sandy  loam,  and  grow  from  cuttings  or  from  seed. 
The  flowers  are  orange  scarlet,  of  engaging  appearance, 
and  require  a  trellis  to  show  them  to  advantage.  Their 
pretty  little  corollas  open  only  when  the  sun  shines  ;  when 
the  clouds  obscure  the  sky,  and  it  is  likely  to  rain,  they 
close  up.  This  is  a  singular  instinct  in  this  plant.  It 
flowers  from  June  to  September.  Although  considered  a 
weed  in  Europe,  and  found  only  in  cultivated  fields,  it 
is  a  great  favorite  not  only  with  the  florist,  but  with 
birds  and  insects,  who  seek  and  devour  the  seeds  with 
avidity. 

The  beauty  of  this  flower  recommends  itself  to  the  no- 
tice of  the  ladies.  When  on  a  trellis,  its  numerous  flowers 
of  scarlet,  with  a  purple  circle  at  the  eye,  which  open  at 
7  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  close  at  2,  make  a  beautiful 
appearance. 

A.  carulea  is  the  blue  flowered  Pimpernel,  having  a 
carmine  spot  on  the  base  of  each.  As  the  scarlet  is 
marked  with  the  purple,  some  of  the  ancient  writers  are 
of  opinion  that  the  blue  is  the  female  and  the  red  the 
male  plant.  It  has  often  been  remarked  that  sheep  will 
not  eat  the  blue  variety,  but  will  the  scarlet.  This  appears 
strange,  and  shows  there  must  be  a  vast  difference  in  the 
two  plants.  Both  plants  are  highly  esteemed,  and  should 
be  cultivated  in  the  same  room ;  their  beautiful  contrast  in 
colors  rrakes  them  more  interesting. 

A.  fruiticosa,  the  large  flowered  Pimpernel,  is  another 
and  desirable  variety.  The  leaves  are  more  lance  shaped 
and  less  oval,  and  more  splendid  than  A.  arvensis,  and  dif- 


PIMPERNEL.  207 

fer  materially,  as  it  remains  open  night  and  day,  the 
weather  having  no  effect  on  the  flowers.  It  grows  readily 
from  cuttings,  and  must  be  kept  from  frost  through  the 
winter ;  it  is  also  propagated  by  seed.  It  will  not  seed  un- 
less planted  in  the  open  ground  in  the  summer  ;  it  will  be 
best,  therefore,  to  keep  some  in  the  house  and  some  in  the 
garden.  It  was  introduced  into  cultivation  in  1803. 

A.  latifolia.  the  broad  leaved  Pimpernel,  and  A.  mcnelli, 
the  blue  Italian,  bear  some  affinity  to  each  other.  The 
first  was  introduced  in  1759,  the  latter  in  1648  ;  both  are 
desirable  plants,  but  as  they  approach  so  near,  one  is 
enough  in  a  collection. 

A.  tcnella  is  called  the  Bog  Pimpernel ;  it  is  a  delightful 
flowering  plant,  found  in  boggy  situations  in  Europe,  flow- 
ering from  June  to  August.  The  flowers  are  erect,  on 
long  axillary  stalks ;  corolla  a  beautiful  rose  color,  deeply 
divided ;  stamina  clothed  with  numerous  and  curiously 
jointed  hair.  The  nature  of  this  plant  not  admitting  of  its 
cultivation  in  the  garden,  makes  it  a  pot  plant  for  the  par- 
lor. It  must  be  kept  in  a  saucer  of  water,  to  make  it 
flower  to  perfection,  and  the  soil  should  be  taken  from  a 
marshy  place.  The  other  plants  require  a  loamy  soil. 


208  A  GUIDE  TO  FLORICULTURE. 

POMGRANATE. 

(PUNIC A   GRANATUM.) 

This  is  a  beautiful  shrubby  perennial  plant,  which  will 
attain  the  height  of  ten  feet.  It  is  a  native  of  Arabia,  Per- 
sia, and  Japan,  and  is  cultivated  chiefly  for  the  beautiful 
appearance  of  its  double  scarlet  flowers,  at  the  ends  of 
the  young  branches.  The  petals  are  round,  somewhat 
wrinkled,  and  inserted  in  the  upper  part  of  the  tube  of  the 
calyx ;  the  fruit  is  globular,  of  a  dingy  yellow,  the  rind 
divided  internally  in  many  cells,  each  containing  an  acid- 
ulous pulp,  and  oblong  angular  seed ;  the  leaves  are  oppo- 
site, oblong,  pointed  at  each  end,  and  of  a  bright  green 
color,  glossy,  on  short  foot  stalks. 

In  tropical  climates  the  Pomgranate  is  cultivated  for  the 
fruit,  which  is  a  pleasant  acid,  and  of  sweet  delicious 
flavor,  much  praised  as  a  desert  among  the  higher  classes 
of  people ;  but  with  us  the  fruit  is  worthless.  It  is  only 
cultivated  for  the  ornamental  appearance  of  the  flowers, 
which  are  certainly  noble  in  mid-summer.  It  is  easily 
managed,  and  will  grow  in  a  rich  loam ;  in  the  winter  it 
may  be  placed  in  the  cellar,  out  of  the  reach  of  frost ;  in 
April  it  should  be  repotted,  and  encouraged  in  its  growth 
by  watering  sparingly  at  first,  then  place  it  on  a  lawn  in 
the  open  garden,  and  it  will  expand  its  beautiful  flowers  to 
perfection.  It  is  increased  by  suckers,  which  it  sends  up 
plentifully,  and  which  should  be  taken  off  in  the  spring, 
and  potted  in  a  rich  loam,  and  treated  the  same  as  full 


POMGRANATE.  209 

grown  plants.     Cuttings,  also,  may  be  taken  off  in  the 
spring,  and  treated  like  other  cuttings. 


PANSY,  OR  HEART'S  EASE. 

(VIOLA  TRICOLOR.) 

"  Pansies,  sweet  tenants  of  the  shade, 
In  purple's  richest  pride  arrayed, 

Your  errand  here  fulfil : 
Go !  bid  the  artist's  simple  strain 
Your  lustre  imitate  in  vain, 

And  match  your  Maker's  skill." 

It.  would  be  impossible  to  trace  this  beautiful  flower  to 
its  origin,  from  its  having  passed  under  different  names. 
The  Greeks  called  it  Phlox,  a  name  how  assigned  to  a 
rery  different  flower.  Some  trace  its  name  and  origin  to 
the  days  of  fable,  and  identify  it  with  lo,  daughter  of 
Midas,  who,  as  the  early  poets  say,  was  changed  by  Diana 
to  a  violet,  to  hide  her  from  Apollo,  who  was  enamored  of 
this  earth  born  beauty.  It  is  a  lovely  allegory,  for  this 
modest  flower,  after  the  lapse  of  so  many  centuries,  still 
retains  the  bashful  timidity  of  the  nymph,  partially  con- 
cealing itself  in  its  own  foliage,  and  that  of  the  neighbor- 
ing shrubs  and  plants,  and  shrinking  from  the  gaze  of  the 
sun  in  his  vernal  search  for  his  long  lost  lo,  the  object  of 
his  love.  In  modern  times  it  has  gone  by  the  more  prosaic 
name  of  "Love  in  Idleness,"  "Johny  Jump-up,"  "Heart's 
Ease,"  "  Ladies'  Delight.'1  &c.,  but  as  we  are  adopting 


210  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

French  fashions  in  almost  every  thing,  this  pretty  plant 
has  taken  the  cognomen  of  Pensee  or  Pansy,  hy  which  it 
is  generally  known  in  Europe  and  America.  It  has 
grown  much  into  repute,  of  late  years,  with  florists. 
Twenty  years  ago,  its  size  did  not  exceed  a  ten  cent 
piece,  though  even  then  attractive  to  the  eye  of  every 
person  who  had  the  least  pretension  to  taste,  or  love  for 
flowers.  I  have  seen  children  sit  in  a  garden  and  look  at 
it  with  admiration  for  a  long  time,  as  if  conscious  of  its 
surpassing  beauty.  By  means  of  hybridizing  this  splendid 
variety  of  violets,  the  florist  has  brought  them  to  the  ne 
plus  ultra  of  perfection,  and  we  now  see  them  of  enormous 
size,  over  two  inches  in  diameter.  It  is  extremely  variable 
in  size  and  in  the  color  of  the  flowers ;  the  stem  is  angular 
and  branching  ;  the  leaves  oblong,  crenate ;  stipules  lyrate, 
pinnatified  ;  petioles  somewhat  longer  than  the  calyx,  and 
stand  well,  presenting  a  majestic  loftiness.  The  color  of 
the  petals  is  beautifully  contrasted,  and  the  eye  distinctly 
pencilled.  These  beautiful  flowers  should  encourage  a 
refined  taste,  among  the  ladies  in  particular,  as  they  are 
well  adapted  for  their  culture,  and  are  easily  managed. 
When  planted  in  a  border,  in  their  tasteful  style,  what  can 
be  more  attractive  ?  The  unbounded  and  endless  variety 
of  colors  possessed  by  this  flower,  convinces  me  it  is  des- 
tined to  be  a  favorite.  No  department  in  Flora's  whole 
catalogue  could  be  more  congenial  to  the  refinement  of 
ladies  than  this  unsurpassable  plant ;  and  to  enable  them 
to  cultivate  it  with  the  greatest  ease,  I  will  lay  down  such 
instruction  as  will  give  them  the  least  embarrassment. 

The  seed  should  be  sown  in  pans,  in  the  middle  of  Feb- 
ruary and  March,  and  again  in  August  and  September,  in 


PANSY,  OR  HEART'S  EASE.  211 

a  sandy  loam,  and  as  evenly  as  possible ;  for  if  crowded, 
the  largest  plants  would  cause  the  smaller  to  damp  off  It 
will  be  necessary  to  keep  them  well  watered  ;  and  when 
the  seedlings  have  acquired  a  few  leaves,  transplant  them. 
On  one  point  I  would  caution  young  beginners:  never 
transplant  in  the  months  of  June,  July,  or  August,  as  the 
weather  in  this  country  is  too  warm ;  consequently  your 
plants  would  die  for  want  of  nourishment,  before  they 
could  make  fresh  root. 

Roots  may  be  divided  at  any  time  in  the  year,  with  the 
exception  of  the  months  above  named,  for  transplanting. 
In  dividing  the  roots,  do  not  use  a  knife,  let  it  be  done 
with  your  fingers,  and  let  each  part  be  furnished  with  root 
fibres ;  and  before  you  put  them  into  the  ground  or  pot,  be 
sure  you  wash  the  soil  from  the  roots.  The  Pansy  is  a 
great  deteriorator  of  soil,  which  makes  it  absolutely  neces- 
sary to  use  this  precaution,  to  meet  with  success.  Cuttings 
make  the  best  plants,  and  produce  the  largest  flowers  ;  and 
the  cultivator's  success  depends  on  this  system  of  operation. 
Cuttings  should  be  taken  from  young  and  healthy  plants, 
and  not  exceed  three  joints,  which  must  be  cut  with  a  very 
sharp  knife  close  to  the  joint.  If  the  knife  is  dull,  it  will 
press  the  joint  injuriously,  and  cause  a  failure,  and  if  you 
leave  any  wood  below  the  joint,  it  will  rot ;  therefore  be 
careful,  and  avoid  a  stem  that  is  hollow,  or  you  will  fail. 

When  your  cuttings  are  ready,  water  the  soil  in  the  pot, 
and  when  settled,  put  in  the  cuttings  to  nearly  one  inch  of 
the  top,  and  press  the  soil  close  about  them ;  then  cover 
them  with  a  small  bell  glass,  or  tumbler,  to  exclude  the 
air ;  place  them  in  the  shade  for  about  two  weeks  ;  give 


212  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

them  air  and  water  ;  when  the  leaves  are  dry  cover  them 
again,  or  the  plants  will  damp  off  In  six  weeks  you  will 
begin  to  perceive  them  growing,  and  if  inclined  to  run  up 
tall,  pinch  off  the  tops.  Sometimes  your  plants  will  grow 
tall  without  having  any  roots,  but  pinching  off  the  top  will 
make  them  throw  out  root  fibres.  Pansies  propagated  in 
this  manner,  seldom  seed  well ;  but  that  is  of  no  conse- 
quence, as  you  can  get  the  finest  flowers  by  cuttings,  and 
seed  can  be  always  purchased  at  seed  stores. 

Pansies  are  sometimes  propagated  by  layering,  but  this 
is  done  chiefly  with  the  common  varieties,  the  cultivation 
of  which  is  hardly  worth  the  trouble  bestowed  on  them, 
while  we  have  such  fine  varieties.  The  large  Pansy  does 
not  seed  so  freely  as  the  common  kind,  and  the  plants  will 
have  to  be  watched  closely  when  you  discover  seed  pods, 
for  it  is  difficult  to  collect  them.  The  seed  pod  generally 
hangs  down,  as  if  to  guard  the  vessel  from  rain,  and  dew 
at  night ;  but  the  day  before  the  seed  is  discharged,  the 
capsules  will  be  reversed  by  holding  themselves  up  :  when 
you  find  this  to  be  the  case,  you  may  pinch  them  off  and 
keep  them  in  a  glass  to  dry  and  open,  and  the  seed  may  be 
sown  soon,  as  directed  above. 

Whenever  you  find  your  plants  surrounded  with  ants, 
take  the  roots  up,  wash  them  with  soap  suds,  and  plant 
them  in  another  situation,  or  they  will  be  destroyed  by  the 
aphides  at  the  root.  Should  you  discover  the  ants  at  a  time 
the  roots  could  not  be  removed  with  safety,  take  some  suds 
made  from  whale  oil  soap,  and  water  them  two  or  three 
times ;  this  will  destroy  the  aphides  at  the  roots,  and  the 
ants  will  soon  disappear.  The  Pansy  delights  in  the 


PANSY,  OR  HEART'S  EASE.  213 

shade,  but  not  under  the  drop  of  other  plants  or  trees.     It 
would  be  better  to  place  them  in  the  open  ground. 


PRIMROSE    FAMILY. 

(PRIMULA.) 

"  I  know  not  what  it  was  that  made 

My  heart  to  love  thee  so ; 
For  though  all  gentle  things  to  me 

Were  dear,  long,  long  ago, 
There  was  no  bird  upon  the  bough, 

No  wild-flower  on  the  lea, 
No  twinkling  star,  no  running  brook, 

I  loved  so  much  as  thee ; 
I  watched  thy  coming  every  spring, 
And  hailed  thee  as  a  living  thing !  " 

This  pretty  little  flower  of  poetry,  the  Primrose,  is  a 
native  of  England,  and  is  found  blooming  in  the  greatest 
perfection  in  copses,  in  the  margin  of  brooks,  lanes,  and 
other  shady  situations,  during  the  months  of  March  and 
April.  The  leaves  are  ovate,  toothed,  rugose,  villous 
beneath ;  umbels  radical ;  flower  stalks  as  long  as  the 
leaves ;  corolla  flat.  This  tribe  is  generally  considered 
to  consist  of  the  Polyanthus,  Primrose.  Cowslip,  and  Ox- 
lip,  all  of  which  are  cultivated  as  florist's  flowers.  How 
these  four  can  be  considered  as  the  same  family,  I  am 
at  a  loss  to  tell,  for  the  Polyanthus  appears  as  distinct 


214  A   GUIDE   TO   FLOR1CULTUIIE. 

from  the  Primrose,  as  the  Auricula  is  from  the  Polyan- 
thus ;  consequently  they  will  be  treated  accordingly. 

The  Primrose  is  a  perennial  rooted  plant,  and  can  be 
propagated  either  by  dividing  the  root  or  by  seed.  It  has 
been  the  theme  of  many  a  ditty  with  poets,  for  several 
hundred  years,  and  has  sustained  its  reputation  as  a  favorite 
flower  up  to  the  present  day,  which  is  more  than  can  be 
said  of  many  flowers  now  in  cultivation,  ten  years  hence. 
The  color  of  the  flower  is  a  brimstone  yellow,  possessing 
a  fragrance  much  like  the  Anise.  When  a  boy,  I  have 
frequently  found  them  in  copses,  of  a  purple  crimson,  beau- 
tiful in  appearance,  growing  on  a  single  stem,  and  flower- 
ing profusely.  Where  the  ground  contains  moisture  these 
flowers  are  most  profuse  and  luxuriant,  and  in  a  few 
minutes  a  person  could  pick  as  many  as  he  could  con- 
veniently carry  in  one  hand,  at  a  season  when  scarcely 
any  other  flowers  had  made  their  appearance,  thus  en- 
livening our  imagination  at  the  approach  of  spring 

The  Cowslip:- 

"  Transplanted  thus,  how  bright  you  grow; 

How  rich  a  perfume  do  you  yield ! 
In  some  close  garden,  Cowslips  so, 
Are  sweeter  than  in  open  fields." 

Yes !  the  Cowslip  luxuriates  in  the  open  meadows,  or  in 
the  garden,  throwing  up  a  scape  with  a  bunch  of  flowers 
each  about  the  size  of  half  a  dime  ;  in  color  inclining 
to  the  orange,  bestowing  quite  an  enchanting  appearance. 
Frequently,  amongst  this  tribe  of  flowers,  will  be  found 
the  Oxlip,  which  appears  to  be  a  hybrid  between  the  Prim- 
rose and  Cowslip,  having  the  stem  of  the  latter  and  the 


PRIMROSE  FAMILY.  215 

flower  of  the  former.  I  have  never  seen  either  of  the  lat- 
ter sport  in  colors  in  the  fields,  but  have  by  cultivation  ; 
their  colors,  even  then,  are  dingy,  and,  I  think,  are  no  im- 
provement on  their  natural  hues.  Primroses  have  the 
ascendency  in  that  particular,  for  we  see  them  yellow, 
white,  red,  crimson,  and  carmine ;  there  are  also  the  dou- 
ble yellow,  white,  dingy  white,  lilac,  crimson,  and  car- 
mine, all  of  which  are  magnificent.  The  double  are 
styled  by  botanists,  monsters,  being  a  sport  of  nature ;  but 
it  strikes  me  if  nature  would  sport  more  among  her  boun- 
teous gifts  in  the  flower  department,  we  should  feel  grateful 
for  such  monsters. 

The  Primrose  family  can  be  easily  propagated,  by  divid- 
ing the  roots  in  the  spring,  or  fall.  It  must  not  be  done 
with  a  knife,  but  with  the  fingers,  or  with  the  end  of  a 
budding  knife  of  ivory  or  bone  ;  when  divided,  pot  each 
part  that  has  root  fibres,  give  them  a  gentle  watering,  and 
set  them  in  the  shade.  To  propagate  from  seed,  it  will  be 
necessary  to  sow  them  in  February,  in  a  box  or  pan,  with 
a  compost  that  will  retain  moisture;  cover  the  seeds  lightly, 
and  in  six  weeks  they  will  be  up ;  be  careful  and  not  let 
the  sun  shine  on  them  after  nine  in  the  morning,  or  you 
may  lose  the  plants.  The  Primrose  is  considered  hardy, 
and  is  really  so  after  the  first  season  in  this  country.  In 
the  summer  this  plant,  like  the  Potyanthus,  is  subject  to 
be  injured  by  the  red  spider.  This  insect  can  be  easily 
destroyed  by  soap  suds,  made  of  whale  oil  soap ;  but  so 
long  as  you  can  keep  the  plants  in  a  healthy,  growing 
state,  there  is  no  danger  from  them.  The  saccharine  mat- 
ter contained  in  the  leaves,  affords  them  nourishment  as 
the  summer  advances,  which  must  be  checked  by  water 


1 


216  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

ing  freely  over  the  foliage,  or  your  plants  will_dwindle 
away  and  die. 


PHLOX. 

(LYCHNIDEA.) 

This  is  decidedly  one  of  our  best  native  flowering  plants, 
and  is  found  growing  in  perfection  in  the  Western  States. 
It  is  perennial  in  duration,  very  showy,  and  strikingly  or- 
namental. It  is  well  calculated  for  the  border  of  the 
flower  garden,  by  its  flowering  so  freely  at  almost  all  sea- 
sons of  the  year,  depending  on  the  variety.  It  is  more 
cultivated  in  Europe  than  in  this  country,  where  many 
new  hybrids  have  been  added  to  the  list  by  fecundation  j 
some  of  the  dwarfs  are  well  calculated  for  pot  culture. 
The  general  charactor  of  this  family  of  plants  is  pretty 
well  known  ;  they  differ  but  little,  and  the  difference  is 
most  conspicuous  among  the  hybrids.  The  capsules  are 
three-celled ;  the  segments  divided  into  five  ;  the  corolla 
flat,  supported  by  a  tube  about  one  inch  long ;  stigma 
trifled ;  calyx  five  cleft ;  flowers  pannicled,  on  corymb 
elongated  on  the  stem,  or  terminate,  arid  gorgeous  in  ap- 
pearance. In  the  open  ground  the  plants  require  but  little 
attention  or  protection  through  the  winter,  and  are  easily 
propagated  by  seed,  cuttings,  or  division  of  the  roots.  To 
propagate  from  seed,  if  new  varieties  be  the  object,  you 
must  take  the  pollen  from  one  flower  with  a  camel's  hair 


PHLOX.  217 

pencil  and  lay  it  on  the  pistil  of  the  one  you  wish  to  cross, 
of  a  different  variety.  By  this  means  your  object  may  be 
obtained;  it  will  be  useless  to  expect  a  hybrid  unless  ths 
fecundation  takes  place.  This  will  necessarily  require  a 
great  nicety  to  perfect.  If  by  cuttings  the  stem  should  be 
cut  in  lengths  of  about  three  joints,  taken  any  time  before 
the  flowers  show ;  or  take  the  lateral  shoots,  which  will 
do  as  well,  always  cutting  close  under  the  joint ;  if  by 
division  of  the  roots,  it  should  be  done  in  the  spring 
or  fall. 

The  Phlox  generally  flowers  best  the  second  season 
after  removal.  To  be  grown  well  the  plant  should  -be 
removed  every  three  or  four  years.  The  soil  should  be  a 
rich  loam,  not  too  dry,  as  the  plant  delights  in  moderately 
moist  situations.  By  following  this  rule  the  cultivator 
will  find  himself  amply  remunerated  for  his  trouble  by  a 
profusion  of  very  desirable  flowers.  The  late  Mr.  Drum- 
mond,  in  his  travels  through  Mexico,  discovered  a  very 
splendid  annual  variety,  much  esteemed  and  cultivated  to 
great  extent ;  it  has  been  named  P.  drummondii,  in  honor 
of  that  botanist.  This  variety  will  strike  readily  from  cut- 
tings; and  it  seeds  freely  in  any  common  garden  soil. 


PJ]ONY. 

Of  this  species  there  are  two  varieties,  both  magnificent 
plants,  and  worthy  of  cultivation.     There  are  about  fifty 
sub-varieties,  shrubby  and  herbaceous.     The  herbaceous 
19 


218  A    GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

is  tuberous  or  fusiform  rooted,  of  easy  culture,  and  perfectly 
hardy.  It  is  a  native  of  Switzerland,  and  other  parts  of 
Europe,  and  has  been  in  cultivation  about  one  hundred 
years.  The  most  splendid  variety  is  the  P.  whitlegii,  a 
large  white,  of  splendid  appearance,  and  fragrant.  P. 
fragrans  is  a  rose  color,  possessing  the  odor  and  color 
of  the  rose,  and  is  frequently  called  the  Rose  Pa?ony.  P. 
humcii  is  a  pink.  All  three  are  double  and  fine,  and  desi- 
rable in  all  well  arranged  gardens  of  moderate  size,  but 
too  large  for  a  small  one.  It  is  increased  by  dividing  the 
root  in  the  fall. 

For  new  varieties,  the  seed  should  bo  sown  in  Septem- 
ber, or  early  in  the  spring,  in  a  box  or  pan,  drilled  in  about 
half  an  inch  deep.  When  the  plants  come  up,  they  must 
be  kept  clean  and  be  watered  moderately  in  dry  weather. 
It  will  take  several  years  before  the  seedlings  flower  :  they 
must  be  top-dressed  every  fall,  and  require  some  protection 
for  the  first  two  seasons ;  to  save  trouble  they  may  be  plant- 
ed in  the  open  ground.  Although  perfectly  hardy,  it  is 
best  to  have  the  roots  covered  with  old  manure.  If  it  is 
desired  to  increase  these  plants,  it  must  be  done  with  a 
knife,  leaving  an  eye  to  every  piece  that  has  fibres.  This 
should  be  done  in  October ;  and  if  the  roots  are  not  too 
small,  they  will  flower  the  next  spring. 

This  variety  should  never  be  removed  in  the  spring,  if 
it  can  be  avoided,  as  it  will  not  do  so  well ;  besides,  it  will 
prevent  the  plant  from  flowering  that  season.  The  shrubby 
kind  is  a  splendid  variety  ;  if  allowed  to  remain  out  of 
doors,  it  will  require  a  slight  protection,  and,  in  conse- 
quence of  flowering  early,  the  flowers  are  likely  to  suffer 
from  the  effects  of  spring  frost.  It  is  also  increased  by 


P.EONY.  219 

seed,  and  by  layering ;  if  by  seed,  in  the  same  manner  as 
recommended  for  the  herbaceous.  As  this  variety  is 
more  tender  than  the  other,  it  will  require  more  care. 
The  shrubby  may  also  be  increased  by  cuttings,  and  by 
grafting  into  the  other  root. 

The  following  directions  are  copied  from  Maund's 
Botanic  Garden,  part  vi,  page  241 :  — "  In  February,  se- 
lect any  of  the  stems  of  the  Paeonia  Moutan,  or  all  may 
be  used  ;  and,  at  the  distance  of  half  an  inch  from  the 
centre  of  each  bud,  both  above  and  below  it,  cut  entirely 
round  the  stem  a  small  ring  of  the  bark,  rather  more 
than  the  sixteenth  of  an  inch  wide,  in  the  manner  of 
common  ringing,  as  practised  on  fruit  trees ;  thus  every 
bud  will  occupy  an  inch  of  the  stem,  when  the  direct 
construction  of  its  bark  is  obstructed,  both  above  and  be- 
low, by  the  rings  Which  have  been  cut  out  of  it.  The 
stems  thus  prepared,  are  then  to  be  laid,  horizontally, 
about  three  inches  beneath  the  soil,  leaving  only  the 
leading  bud  at  the  end  of  each  branch  above  the  surface. 
In  six  months  every  bud  will  have  made  vigorous  shoots, 
and  in  general  will  have  two  radical  fibres  at  its  base. 
In  August  remove  the  soil  from  above  the  layers,  and, 
having  raised  the  newly  made  shoots,  carefully  separate 
each  young  root  from  the  main  layer,  by  passing  a  small 
knife  from  one  ring  to  the  other,  cutting  out  about  one 
third  part  of  the  old  stem.  The  young  plants  should  be  im- 
mediately potted,  to  remain  till  they  are  required  for 
planting  out  in  their  final  situation.  After  thus  gather- 
ing the  first  crop  of  young  plants,  the  old  layers  should 
be  again  covered  with  good  soil,  and  left  as  before  ;  and 
in  the  following  summer,  a  second  and  greater  crop 


220  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

of  plants  will  be  produced  than  the  first  season  ;  and, 
what  is  more  remarkable,  they  will  issue  from  vari- 
ous parts  of  the  stem,  where  no  trace  of  a  bud  was  pre- 
viously indicated." 

This  variety  should  be  kept  in  a  pit  in  this  coun- 
try, during  the  winter,  and  when  the  flower  buds  are 
ready  to  expand  should  be  brought  into  the  green-house, 
or  parlor,  to  perfect  them,  which  makes  a  magnificent 
show.  After  their  flowering  season  is  over,  they  may 
be  placed  out  of  doors  for  the  remainder  of  the  sea- 
son. 

The  best  varieties  of  this  species  are  the  Moutan 
Banksii,  a  pink  color,  very  large  and  double,  and  beau- 
tiful in  appearance  ;  and  the  M.  papaveracea,  poppy 
flowered.  The  flowers  of  the  latter  are  single,  white, 
with  a  purple  centre,  and  very  magnificent,  although  sin- 
gle. The  other  varieties  are  fine,  but  the  above  are  con- 
sidered the  best  by  florists. 


PETUNIA. 

"  Some,  more  aspiring,  catch  the  neighbor  shrub 
With  clasping  tendrils,  and  insert  his  branch, 
Else  unadorned,  with  many  a  gay  festoon, 
And  fragrant  chaplet  ;  recompensing  well 
The  strength  they  borrow  with  the  grace  they  lend." 

This  is  a  beautiful  flowering  plant,  biennial  in  duration, 
and  branching ;  leaves  elliptical,  smooth  edge,  of  a  light  and 


PETUNIA.  221 

delicate  green.  It  may  be  considered  one  of  our  choicest 
exotics,  of  late  introduction,  flowering  from  May  until  the 
frost  kills  them  in  the  fall.  From  its  habit  of  branching 
it  will  cover  the  space  of  twenty  feet.  It  is  a  native  of 
Buenos  Ayres,  from  which  place  the  seed  was  sent  by  Mr. 
Tweedie  fifteen  years  ago.  It  will  grow  in  any  common 
garden  soil,  and  the  more  exposed  to  the  sun,  the  more 
freely  will  it  flower.  It  is  therefore  well  adapted  for  plant- 
ing out  in  the  open  ground,  and  is  well  suited  for  the  flower 
pot,  or  trained  to  a  trellis  of  any  shape.  The  propensity 
of  this  plant  for  branching  so  much,  and  flowering  at  the 
same  time,  gives  it  a  commanding  appearance  and  makes 
it  desirable  for  the  parlor  window. 

There  are  several  varieties,  and  when  planted  in  a  bed 
or  border,  they  will  easily  cross,  and  seed  freely.  The 
seeds  are  small,  but  easily  saved,  if  required,  and  will  sow 
themselves  and  come  up  early  in  the  spring,  when  they 
can  be  transplanted.  The  Petunia  is  easily  propagated  by 
seed,  or  by  cuttings  taken  at  any  season,  and  when  planted 
it  needs  no  further  trouble  than  clearing  out  the  weeds.  Its 
easy  culture  and  fine  appearance  will  always  recommend 
it  to  public  favor.  The  roots  of  choice  varieties  should  be 
taken  up  in  the  fall,  the  branches  partially  trimmed  off, 
and  parted ;  they  will  keep  through  the  winter,  if  guarded 
against  frost,  and  will  flower  better  the  second  season.  All 
biennials  will  not  flower  the  first  season  ;  this  plant  is  an 
exception,  though  generally  cultivated  as  an  annual.  The 
English  florists  have  been  very  successful  in  hybridizing1 
this  variety,  and  have  produced  some  of  the  most  splendid 
flowers  imaginable.  It  is  to  be  regretted  that  but  few 
will  reach  this  country,  as  the  plants  do  not  pack  well. 


222  A  GUIDE   TO  FLORICULTURE. 

POLYANTHUS. 

(PRIMULA.) 

"  Fair  plant !  as  plentiful  as  fair ! 

Before  thou  meet'st  the  eye, 
Thy  fragrance  fills  the  summer  air, 
And  tells  that  thou  art  nigh." 

This  beautiful  herbaceous  evergreen  is  a  perennial, 
highly  ornamental,  nearly  equal  to  the  Auricula.  It  flowers 
from  March  to  May.  The  leaves  are  ovate  and  toothed, 
throwing  up  a  stem  about  six  inches  high,  bearing  a  beau- 
tiful truss,  and  emitting  a  delightful  fragrance ;  it  is  every 
way  grateful  for  its  delicacy.  It  is  considered  by  some 
botanists  to  belong  to  the  Primrose  family.  A  Mr.  Her- 
bert has  endeavored  to  prove  this,  in  the  London  Horticul- 
tural Transactions,  Vol.  iv,  page  19.  He  states  that  from 
the  natal  seed  of  the  Cowslip,  he  raised  a  Primrose,  a  Cow- 
slip, an  Oxlip,  a  Polyanthus,  a  Hose-in-hose  Cowslip,  and 
a  Primrose  bearing  its  own  flowers  on  a  Polyanthus  stalk. 
From  this  circumstance  he  is  induced  to  believe  that  all 
are  of  the  same  family.  This  doctrine  may  have  suited 
other  times,  when  flowers  were  not  so  well  understood  as 
at  present.  There  is  no  doubt  that  Mr.  Herbert  was  sin- 
cere in  his  belief;  but  his  seed  may  have  got  mixed  by 
accident,  or  some  of  his  flowers  may  have  become  impreg- 
nated, thus  producing  the  difference  in  varieties.  I  have 
tried  the  experiment ;  gathering  the  seed  myself,  but  the 
result  was  always  the  same  as  the  original  plant.  There 
is  no  florist  at  this  day  that  will  advance  such  an  hypothesis  ; 


fcv   Honision  4   Stonsman./PatfrriotttrR0ir.AprillJ31fl 


POLYANTHUS.  223 

anthus  be  a  sport  of  the  Cowslip,  or  Oxlip,  it  is  strange, 
"  'tis  passing  strange,"  that  it  should  not  be  found  to  return 
to  its  primitive  state,  as  other  plants  will,  at  times.  There 
is  no  doubt  the  origin  of  the  Polyanthus  is  lost,  like  the 
Carnation  and  many  other  plants,  that  have  been  in  culti- 
vation from  time  immemorial.  The  Polyanthus  appears 
to  be  a  distinct  species,  as  much  so  as  the  Auricula;  culti- 
vation, no  doubt,  has  much  improved  the  one  as  well  as 
the  other.  It  is  frequently  the  case  you  will  find  the 
Primrose  sporting  in  the  copses  in  England,  where  they 
bear  a  stronger  affinity  to  the  Polyanthus  than  the  Cow- 
slip. Whoever  saw  the  Cowslip  sport  to  the  Polyanthus 
in  the  fields  ?  There  is  no  doubt  but  the  Oxlip  is  a  sport 
between  the  Primrose  and  Cowslip.  The  seed  of  the 
Cowslip  can  be  purchased  of  various  colors,  which  is  effected 
by  culture.  The  flowers  differ  widely  from  the  Polyantjbus 
in  beauty,  form,  and  fragrance;  therefore  the  Polyanthus 
must  be  a  different  variety  by  itself. 

This  beautiful  and  desirable  perennial  is  increased  by 
dividing  the  roots  in  the  fall.  The  seed  should  be  sown, 
if  you  wish  to  obtain  new  varieties,  in  February,  in  a  box 
or  pan,  and  be  very  lightly  covered  ;  it  is  desirable  to  cover 
the  soil  with  snow,  if  there  should  be  any  about  the 
middle  of  the  month,  as  you  could  thus  sow  the  seed  more 
evenly,  and  when  the  snow  melted,  the  seed  would  be 
carried  down  to  a  sufficient  depth  "to  germinate.  The  soil 
should  be  a  rich  loam,  and  be  kept  moist,  and  receive  the 
benefit  of  the  morning  sun  only.  When  the  plants  appear, 
they  should  be  protected  against  the  spring  frosts  and 
heavy  rains;  and  as  soon  as  the  seedlings  will  bear  trans- 
planting, set  them  about  two  inches  apart,  in  a  shady 


224  A   GUIDE    TO   FLORICULTURE. 

situation,  and  regularly  water  them  through  the  summer. 
In  September  the  seedlings  should  be  potted  off  singly,  and 
be  removed  to  a  place  secure  from  frost  during  the  winter, 
as  seedlings  are  tender. 

To  increase  by  division  of  the  roots  is  the  only  way  of 
increasing  the  same  variety,  when  you  have  a  choice  flow- 
er. September  is  the  best  time  for  that  purpose ;  it  should 
be  done  with  the  thumb  and  fingers,  not  with  a  knife,  which 
has  a  tendency  to  destroy  the  plants.  It  is  necessary  to 
divide  the  root  once  in  two  years,  at  farthest,  or  your  plants 
will  degenerate  or  die.  There  is  one  thing  remarkable  in 
good  plants  ;  by  allowing  them  to  seed,  they  will  frequently 
die.  This  must  be  guarded  against,  unless  you  have  a 
duplicate  plant.  Seedlings  generally  produce  the  best 
flowers,  and  are  the  only  certain  means  of  getting  new 
varieties.  The  amateur  should  only  save  those  plants  that 
prove  firm  and  with  elastic  foot  stalks ;  never  allow  more 
than  seven  flowers  on  a  plant;  observe  that  the  eye  is 
round,  of  a  clear  yellow  color ;  the  ground  color  of  a  rich 
crimson  and  velvety  appearance,  with  a  clear  and  distinct 
edging  round  the  petals,  which  can  be  observed  at  twenty 
feet  distance.  The  flower  should  be  perfectly  flat,  without 
curving  either  way.  The  pin  eyed  plant  is  considered  by 
florists  not  fit  for  a  show  plant.  This  plant  is  liable  to  be  de- 
stroyed by  the  red  spider ;  and  the  plan  recommended  in  the 
treatise  on  the  Primrose  family  is  also  applicable  to  this,  to 
prevent  their  destruction.  Maiden  soil  from  the  commons 
is  the  best  for  this  plant,  with  one  third  cow  manure,  at 
least  three  years  old,  mixed  three  months,  and  exposed  to 
the  weather  before  used. 


POLYANTHUS.  225 

PYRAMIDAL   BELL-FLOWER. 

(CAMPANULA  PYRAMIDALIS.) 

This  flower  was  once  held  in  great  estimation,  but  of  late 
years  has  fallen  into  disrepute,  notwithstanding  it  is  a  fine 
perennial  flowering  plant.  Fashion  may  displace  many 
of  our  old  border  flowers,  but  eventually  they  will  be  re- 
placed, and  many  of  those  of  later  introduction,  cast  aside. 
The  leaves  of  this  plant  are  ovate,  smooth,  and  cordate ; 
the  stem  upright,  elongated,  milky,  growing  about  four  feet 
high,  pannicled,  with  branches  from  bottom  to  top  ;  leaves 
petiolated,  shortly  toothed,  and  terminated  by  a  gland; 
corolla  five  cleft,  spreading.  This  plant  is  found  in  India 
and  Savoy,  and  was  introduced  into  England  four  hundred 
years  ago.  It  is  increased  by  cuttings,  division  of  the  root, 
and  by  seed ;  by  cuttings  from  the  stem  before  the  flowers 
expand,  by  division  of  the  roots  in  the  fall,  and  by  seed  tho 
same  as  other  perennials.  Like  C.  medium,  it  can  be 
grown  in  pots  and  have  a  good  effect.  C.  pyramidalis  is 
called  the  "  Steeple,  or  Chimney  Campanula,"  on  account 
of  attaining  a  lofty  growth  ;  it  was  often  trained  to  trellis 
work  on  account  of  branching,  and  then  placed  in  front  of 
the  fire  place  to  flower.  It  is  perfectly  hardy,  delights  in  a 
rich  loam,  but  does  not  like  a  composition  made  from  fresh 
manure;  the  compound  therefore  ought  to  be  made  six 
months  before  being  used.  The  soil  should  be  two-thirds 
sandy  loam,  one-third  cow  manure  (four  years  old  at 
least).  They  will  then  flower  in  the  greatest  perfection  in 


226  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

the  house,  if  allowed  plenty  of  air  in  the  day,  from  June  to 
August. 


ROSE    CAMPION. 

(AGRASTEMMA  CORONARIA.) 

This  is  a  pretty  herbaceous  perennial,  and  well  adapted 
for  the  border  of  the  flower  garden.  It  is  known  as  the 
"  Mullen  Pink."  There  are  several  varieties,  some  bearing 
rose  colored  flowers,  and  others  a  flesh  or  dingy  white; 
there  is  also  a  double  variety,  but  it  is  scarce  in  this 
country. 

The  single  varieties  are  raised  from  seed  sown  in  April, 
in  good  garden  soil ;  in  the  second  season  they  will  flower, 
and  can  then  be  increased  by  dividing  the  root  in  the  fall. 
It  was  originally  imported  from  Italy,  is  perfectly  hardy, 
and  remains  green  through  the  winter,  enlivening  the 
scene  when  scarce  any  other  perennial  assumes  a  pleas- 
ing aspect. 


ROCKET   LARKSPUR.  227 

ROCKET   LARKSPUR. 

(DELPHINIUM  AJACIS.) 

This  is  a  beautiful  annual  for  the  flower  garden,  grow- 
ing about  eighteen  inches  high,  of  various  colors,  and  all 
double,  flowering  from  May  to  June.  Like  many  other 
valuable  annuals,  it  succeeds  best  if  sown  in  the  fall, 
drilled  in  rows,  in  a  bed  ;  and,  if  lightly  protected  in  mid 
winter,  will,  in  the  spring,  give  the  garden  as  much  gran- 
deur as  a  bed  of  Tulips.  There  are  a  number  of  other 
varieties  in  cultivation,  some  perennial ;  but  the  Rocket  is 
decidedly  the  best,  and  easily  cultivated.  The  soil  should 
be  rich ;  never  sow  them  in  the  same  bed  the  second  sea- 
son, as  the  Larkspur  is  a  great  deteriorator  of  soil.  In  the 
spring  a  second  sowing  should  be  made ;  they  will  thus 
be  in  flower  at  different  periods. 


228  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

ROSE. 

(ROSA.) 

"  If,  on  creation's  morn,  the  King  of  Heaven 
To  shrubs  and  flowers  a  sovereign  queen  had  given, 
O,  beauteous  Rose !  He  had  anointed  thee, 
Of  shrubs  and  flowers  the  sovereign  queen  to  be ! 
The  spotless  emblem  of  unsullied  truth; 
The  smile  of  beauty,  and  the  glow  of  youth; 
The  garden's  pride,  the  grace  of  vernal  bowers, 
The  blush  of  meadows,  and  the  eye  of  flowers.'* 

The  Rose  is  generally  considered  the  Queen  of  Flowers, 
and  deservedly  so;  its  beauty,  fragrance,  and  majestic 
appearance,  unquestionably  command  our  admiration. 
The  attributes  of  this  inestimable  beauty  have  never  lost 
one  atom  of  merit,  from  its  earliest  culture  down  to  the 
present  time.  It  is  so  well  known  to  the  common  obser- 
ver, at  first  sight,  as  to  require  no  particular  description, 
and  all  the  eulogium  lavished  on  this  prominent  beauty, 
or  any  of  its  varieties,  would  fall  short  in  doing  them 
justice. 

Many  rivals  of  late  have  been  brought  forward ;  the 
most  formidable  among  them  is  the  Dahlia,  equal  in  beauty 
but  deficient  in  odor,  leaving  the  Rose  still  the  diadem  of 
the  world,  in  floral  greatness.  Could  the  Dahlia  be  once 
endowed  with  that  essential  to  perfection,  a  grateful  fra- 
grance, then,  indeed,  might  the  lover  of  that  flower  have 
some  pretension  to  rivalship ;  until  then,  the  Rose,  the 
queen  of  flowers,  must  and  will  reign,  predominant. 


ROSE.  229 

"  Eye  of  the  garden,  queen  of  flowers, 
Love's  cup,  wherein  nectarous  power, 

Engendered  first  of  nectar, 
Sweet  nurse-child  of  the  spring's  young  hours, 

And  beauty's  fair  character." 

The  history  of  the  Rose  can  be  traced  as  far  back  as 
two  thousand  years.  Pliny,  in  his  time,  enumerated  eve- 
ral  varieties;  the  one  most  cultivated  then  was  the  Cabbage 
Rose,  the  one  so  common  with  us,  which,  notwithstanding 
it  is  so  old  a  favorite,  still  retains  its  merited  standing  in  the 
florist's  garden. 

The  Rose  has  been  more  extensively  cultivated  in 
Egypt,  and  along  the  Ganges,  in  India,  than  with  us ; 
this  probably  may  arise  from  the  florist's  occupation  being 
more  divided  here  in  the  vast  number  of  different  plants  in 
cultivation.  The  Persians  have  been  more  attentive  to 
its  culture  than  any  other  people,  that  is,  to  a  particular 
kind ;  and  we  are  indebted  to  that  country  for  the  cele- 
brated Otto  of  Roses,  an  essential  oil  extracted  from  that 
flower,  which  is  imported  into  this  and  other  countries  as 
a  perfume.  The  smallness  of  the  quantity  extracted  makes 
it  dear,  and  it  may  be  known,  when  genuine,  by  its  being 
in  a  congealed  state,  apparently  as  if  frozen  ;  the  warmth  of 
the  hand  will  restore  it  to  a  liquid  state.  A  celebrated 
traveller  that  has  visited  the  Palaces  in  Persia,  describes 
the  places  like  fairy  land ;  every  piece  of  ground  is  studded 
with  these  heavenly  flowers,  containing  the  most  exquisite 
perfume  known,  which  is  inhaled  with  every  breath  you 
draw,  while  the  eye  is  captivated  with  their  innumerable 
double  flowers,  surpassing  all  imagination  ;  neither  is  this 
resplendent  show  confined  to  the  gardens,  but  their  rooms 


230 


A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 


are  decorated  with  them,  as  if  their  presence  was  essential 
to  their  existence  :  — 

"  Where  the  soft  Persian  maid  the  breath  inhales, 
Of  love-sick  Roses,  wooed  by  nightingales." 

The  Rose  was  originally  dedicated  to  Aurora,  being  the 
emblem  of  youth,  and  to  Venus  as  the  emblem  of  beauty 
and  love  ;  to  Cupid,  that  harbinger  of  danger  to  the  female 
heart,  from  whom  it  was  given  to  Harpocrates,  the  god  of 
silence.  The  Heathen  Mythology  is  thus  partly  made  up 
by  this  delightful  and  prolific  flower,  the  theme  of  whose 
beauty  has  been  sung  by  our  most  celebrated  poets,  afford- 
ing so  much  subject  for  their  versatile  pens,  operating  on 
their  minds  as  the  dew  drops  afford  nourishment  to  the 
exhausted  plant,  after  the  influence  of  the  exuberant  sun. 

The  varieties  of  color  in  the  Rose  are  innumerable,  as 
well  as  difference  in  habit.  It  is  easily  cultivated  either  by 
seed,  cuttings,  layering,  budding,  and  by  suckers  at  the 
root.  Each  kind  has  its  peculiar  system,  and  must  be 
treated  accordingly.  To  propagate  the  hardy  or  garden 
Rose  from  seed,  the  hip  which  contains  the  seed  should 
be  kept  dry,  rubbed  out,  and  sown  in  the  spring.  Some- 
times the  seed  will  require  one  year  to  germinate,  unless 
brought  forward  in  a  hot-house,  which  is  not  often  in  the 
possession  of  the  amateur.  It  should  be  sown  in  a  shady 
situation,  and  be  kept  moist.  The  soil  should  be  a  leaf 
mould  and  sand,  equal  parts.  If  the  seed  is  sown  in  pans 
or  boxes,  it  could  be  more  conveniently  removed  into  dif- 
ferent situations,  if  found  necessary.  The  seed  should  not 
be  planted  over  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep.  As  the  seed- 
lings grow  and  show  about  four  leaves,  pot  them  off,  and 


ROSE.  231 

nlace  them  in  a  pit,  until  the  next  spring ;  then  transplant 
them  into  the  open  ground,  and  they  will  flower  the  third 
year ;  but  forwarding  with  bottom  heat,  or  hot-house,  will 
make  many  flower  the  first  year,  if  not  the  common  gar- 
den variety.  Unless  you  have  taken  the  proper  means 
necessary  to  hybridize,  the  labor  of  raising  from  seed  is 
not  worth  the  trouble. 

Layering  Roses  is  the  most  certain  way  of  propagating 
the  same  variety  ;  it  should  be  done  about  the  time  Roses 
are  beginning  to  bloom  ;  in  former  times  the  fall  was  con- 
sidered the  best ;  experience  has  taught  the  reverse,  and 
layering  was  formerly  done  by  merely  pegging  down  the 
branch  ;  this  would  take  a  long  time  to  form  root  fibres. 
The  most  approved  plan  is  to  peg  down  a  branch,  and  turn 
up  the  end  in  as  upright  a  position  as  possible,  and  let  it 
remain  several  days  to  set ;  then  make  a  slit  by  cutting 
with  a  sharp  knife,  commencing  at  the  joint,  to  the  centre  ; 
thence  up  half  way  to  the  next  joint,  the  same  as  you  would 
in  layering  the  Carnation ;  be  particular  that  the  slit  be 
open  when  you  re-peg  the  branch  down,  which  can  easily 
be  done  with  a  piece  of  moss,  or  some  of  the  soil ;  tie  the 
branch  firmly  to  a  stake,  and  cover  the  slit  about  half  an 
inch  in  the  soil.  Should  the  weather  be  favorable  the 
layers  will  be  ready  to  take  off  in  the  fall ;  but  prior  to  that 
time  you  had  better  examine  them,  and,  if  not  rooted,  you 
must  allow  them  to  remain  till  next  season. 

The  Rose  is  also  propagated  by  suckers.  If  allowed  to 
remain  in  one  place  any  time  you  will  find  them  abundant, 
though  some  are  more  prone  to  make  them  than  others. 
These  should  be  detached  in  November,  and  in  two  years 
will  make  good  flowering  bushes. 


232  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

Roses  to  be  grown  well,  should  not  be  allowed  to  remain 
over  three  or  four  years  in  the  same  place,  which  is  evident 
by  the  suckers  coming  up  some  distance  from  the  mother 
plant.  If  not  removed,  you  will  soon  find  the  old  plant 
sicken  and  die ;  the  soil  being  deteriorated,  the  plant  ceases 
to  exist  for  want  of  nourishment. 

To  obtain  good  flowers  the  plants  should  be  removed 
often,  and  every  summer  or  fall  the  old  wood  pruned  out, 
and  mulch  the  roots  with  old  manure  before  the  winter 
sets  in,  and  in  the  spring  turn  it  over,  mixing  it  with  the 
soil,  disturbing  the  roots  as  little  as  possible. 

The  Rose  is  also  propagated  by  grafting  the  more  choice 
varieties  on  the  root  of  the  more  common  kind,  which  is 
done  in  the  following  manner:  —  Take  a  piece  of  the  root, 
about  four  inches  long,  and  cut  a  slit  about  one  inch  long, 
down  the  center  ;  then  take  the  scion  you  wish  to  engraft, 
cutting  it  the  length  required  (three  eyes),  the  bottom 
part  should  be  cut  like  a  wedge,  which  must  be  inserted 
into  the  slit  of  the  root;  be  particular  in  fitting  the  bark  of 
each  as  exact  as  possible.  It  should  be  observed  that  both 
should  be  as  near  one  size  as  possible,  —  when  done  it 
should  be  bound  with  bass  firmly,  so  that  neither  can 
separate  from  its  position ;  then  take  grafting  wax,  and 
cover  the  binding,  to  exclude  the  atmospheric  air  from  the 
wound  of  the  grafted  part ;  when  completed  it  may  be 
planted  into  the  open  ground.  After  the  parts  are  united, 
which  can  easily  be  discovered  by  the  growth,  slacken  the 
bandage,  and  to  prevent  accident,  put  a  small  stake  in  the 
ground  to  tie  the  young  wood  to,  and  it  will  require  no  fur- 
ther trouble.  Grafting  is  performed  in  the  spring  before 
the  sap  begins  to  circulate. 


ROSE,  233 

The  Rose  is  also  increased  by  budding.  This  process 
is  generally  done  with  new  varieties,  and  is  frequently  per- 
formed on  running  Roses,  for  the  sake  of  curiosity,  enabling 
a  person  to  have  different  colored  flowers  on  the  same  bush. 
The  best  standard  to  bud  on  is  the  Boursalt,  and  the  best 
time  to  bud  is  July  and  August,  when  the  bark  will  part 
freely.  It  is  performed  the  same  as  with  fruit  trees,  which 
mode  is  so  well  understood  as  to  render  it  unnecessary  to 
describe.  Shakspeare  says: — 

"  You  see,  sweet  maid !  we  marry 
A  gentle  scion  to  the  wildest  stock ; 
And  make  conceive  a  bark  of  baser  kind 
By  bud  of  nobler  race ;  this  is  an  art 
Which  does  mend  nature,  —  change  it  rather;  but 
The  art  itself  is  nature." 

The  Scotch  Rose  has  not  been  known  much  above 
fifty  years.  It  is  hardy  and  very  distinct,  with  delicate 
limbs  and  foliage,  profuse  in  flowering,  and  mostly  double. 
It  was  originally  found  on  the  mountains  of  Scotland, 
from  whence  it  was  taken  by  Messrs.  DICK  and  BROWN, 
in  1793,  and  was  single.  Their  attention  to  its  culture  first 
brought  the  flowers  double.  Seeding  freely,  this  indispen- 
sable variety  has  been  greatly  augmented,  and  is  now  to  be 
found  in  most  gardens.  It  is  easily  cultivated. 

The  Cabbage,  or  Provence  Rose,  is  one  of  the  oldest  we 
have  in  cultivation,  and  is  a  desirable  as  well  as  ornamen- 
tal rose.  Holland  claims  the  parentage  of  this,  but  without 
foundation,  as  it  was  a  favorite  of  the  Romans,  and  was 
used  in  their  triumphal  marches.  It  was  not  known  in 
Europe  above  five  hundred  years  ago.  It  is  possible  the 
Dutch  may  have  been  the  first  to  introduce  it  into  Europe. 
20 


234  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

This  variety  can  be  traced  back  over  two  thousand  years, 
and  is  a  native  of  the  East. 

The  Moss  Rose  is  supposed  to  be  a  mere  variety  of  tho 
Provence,  which  Mr.  Lee,  of  Hammersmith,  endeavored  to 
prove  ;  it  is  certainly  problematical.  In  Italy  it  is  said  to 
lose  its  mossy  appearance,  which  some  botanists  suppose  to 
be  enough  to  prove  the  assertion;  but  this  is  fallacious 
reasoning.  It  only  proves  that  the  climate  or  soil  is  not 
congenial  to  its  culture.  There  are  many  flowers  brought 
to  this  country  that  lose  their  fragrance ;  for  instance,  the 
Mignionette,  which  in  England  is  delightful,  but  degenerates 
in  this  country ;  that  is  no  argument  that  it  was  originally 
void  of  fragrance.  Country,  soil,  and  situation,  will  influence 
most  exotics,  more  or  less.  The  first  account  we  have  of 
the  Moss  Rose  was  in  1724.  Its  true  history  is  unknown ; 
therefore  all  conjecture  on  the  subject  is  idle  speculation. 
The  following  little  fictitious  poetical  explanation  will 
amuse  some,  if  it  does  not  give  the  true  history.  It  is  a 
translation  from  a  German  poet : 

The  Angel  of  the  flowers,  one  day» 

Beneath  a  Rose-tree  sleeping  lay, 

That  spirit,  to  whose  charge  is  given, 

To  bathe  young  buds  in  dews  from  heaven : 

Awaking  from  his  light  repose, 

The  Angel  whispered  to  the  Rose; 

O,  fondest  object  of  my  care, 

Still  fairest  found  where  all  are  fair, 

For  the  sweet  shade  thou  'st  given  to  me. 

Ask  what  thou  wilt,  'tis  granted  thee." 
•*  Then,"  said  the  Rose,  with  deepened  glow, 
"  On  me  another  grace  bestow." 

The  spirit  paused  in  silent  thought, 

What  grace  was  there  that  flower  had  not? 


ROSE.  235 

»T  was  but  a  moment ;  o'er  the  Rose 
A  veil  of  moss  the  spirit  throws, 
And  robed  in  Nature's  simplest  weed, 
Could  there  a  flower  that  Rose  exceed  ? 

The  Moss  variety  of  Rose  is  splendid ;  the  calyx  and 
peduncles  are  mossy,  giving  the  rose  a  rich,  novel,  and 
beautiful  appearance,  distinct  and  interesting,  requisites  to 
be  found  only  in  this  class  of  beauties.  It  is  more  difficult 
to  root  than  other  Roses,  and  it  will  generally  take  two  years 
to  propagate  from  layers ;  it  is  therefore  much  easier  pro- 
pagated by  budding.  The  common  Moss  is  the  best  va- 
riety, and,  like  the  Scotch  Rose,  should  not  be  pruned  much, 
neither  is  it  necessary  to  move  it  often. 

The  Rose  known  as  the  French  Hundred-leaf,  was 
known  to  Pliny,  as  one  of  the  greatest  beauties  of  the  Rose 
family ;  but  it  is  destitute  of  fragrance.  It  is  a  distinct  va- 
riety from  the  Provence  j  the  flower  stalk  is  upright  and 
stiff,  destitute  of  thorns,  and  is  found  on  the  mountains  of 
Switzerland,  and  other  places. 

The  Burgundy  and  Damask  possess  a  similitude,  and 
are  frequently  confounded  with  each  other,  to  those  that 
are  not  good  judges.  It  is  commonly  called  in  England 
Monthly,  but  generally,  in  favorable  soil  and  situations,  it 
will  flower  four  times  in  the  year;  on  this  account,  the 
French  call  it  "  Rose  de  Quartc  Saison."  This  division  of 
Roses  is  much  improved  of  late,  and  is  becoming  a  great 
favorite. 

Hybrid  Roses  of  different  classes  are  becoming  very  nu- 
merous and  fashionable,  and  by  some  are  now  considered 
the  finest  in  cultivation ;  in  ten  years  they  will  be  thought 
nothing  of. 


236  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

Of  the  hybrid  China  there  is  a  great  variety,  and  we 
owe  their  origin  to  the  China,  Tea-scented,  Noisette,  Bour- 
bon, and  the  French  Provence,  being  crossed  with  the 
garden  Rose,  by  which  means  we  are  furnished  with  a 
splendid  variety  of  elegant  flowers,  both  in  form  and  color, 
of  vigorous  growth,  and  extremely  luxuriant  foliage. 
Although  these  hybrids  flower  but  once  in  the  season, 
they  continue  so  for  a  long  time.  Many  run  to  a  great 
height,  and  are  perfectly  hardy ;  these  will  generally  grow 
from  cuttings  taken  off  in  June.  This  class  of  Roses  re- 
quires but  little  pruning,  unless  it  is  cutting  out  the  old 
wood  in  November. 

The  Noisette  is  another  desirable  variety  ;  the  origin  of 
this  class  was  raised  from  seed  of  the  Musk,  fertilized  with 
the  China,  and  the  world  is  indebted  to  this  country  for 
this  desirable  variety.  Most  of  this  class  are  running 
Roses,  bearing  their  beautiful  flowers  in  clusters,  from  June 
until  checked  by  frost  in  the  fall.  This  variety  will  stand 
out  with  a  slight  protection,  and  is  increased  by  cuttings 
and  layering. 

The  Tea-scented  China  Rose  is  another  beautiful  varie- 
ty, much  esteemed  for  its  delicacy  of  color,  and  the  ex- 
quisite odor  of  its  flowers.  It  is  generally  grown  in  pots 
for  parlor  culture ;  it  is  equally  suitable  for  the  open 
ground,  and  will  survive  the  severity  of  the  winter  with 
slight  protection,  which  should  be  removed  in  March, 
after  the  cold  weather  is  over.  By  this  treatment  the 
bushes  are  more  thrifty,  and  it  will  bloom  more  abundant- 
ly. If  the  winter  be  very  severe,  the  bush  may  freeze,  and 
the  wood  die  level  with  the  ground,  which  is  of  no  con- 


ROSE. 

sequence,  as  the  bush  will  put  with  more  "vigor  in  the 
spring. 

The  Bengal,  Bourbon,  and  China  Everblooming,  or 
Daily,  require  the  same  treatment  to  develope  their  beau- 
ties to  perfection ;  all  will  grow  readily  from  cuttings,  and 
the  best  month  to  propagate  them  is  June.  I  refer  the 
reader  to  the  article  on  cuttings. 

I  think,  as  a  general  class  of  Roses  for  the  garden,  the 
Bourbon  will  be  found  decidedly  the  best,  blooming  all  the 
summer,  and  varying  in  quality  and  color.  Its  foliage  is 
bright  and  finely  shaped,  perfectly  hardy,  and  of  free 
growth.  It  makes  the  most  splendid  Tree  Rose  known. 
This  variety  will  outlive  that  class  of  Roses  now  coming 
into  fashion,  called  Remontant,  or  Hybrid  Perpetuals. 

In  regard  to  soil  for  Roses,  it  will  be  found  that  situa- 
tion and  climate  will  make  a  difference  in  their  growth : 
experience  is  the  best  criterion.  Generally,  the  Rose  will 
grow  best  in  a  rich  loamy  soil.  To  tell  the  amateur  to 
take  a  certain  portion  of  this  soil,  and  a  certain  portion  of 
another,  and  so  on,  only  serves  to  distract  the  mind  of  the 
young  beginner,  mystifying  their  culture  when  there  is 
»io  mystery  about  it.  The  best  plan  is  to  encourage  the 
culture  of  plants ;  experience  is  the  best  teacher  on  this 
head,  and  of  more  service  than  all  that  could  be  written 
by  the  most  experienced  gardeners.  I  find  that  class  of 
men  will  differ  in  their  management  of  plants.  All  pot 
plants  require  a  richer  soil  than  the  same  kind  in  the  open 
ground.  This  arises  from  the  quantity  of  water  pot  plants 
require,  as  water  washes  the  substance  of  the  soil  from  the 
roots,  which  is  not  the  case  when  in  the  open  ground. 

The  Tree  Rose  has  become  quite  fashionable,  and  is 


238  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

within  the  pale  of  any  person.  It  only  requires  the  trouble 
of  selecting  a  Boursalt  Rose,  that  has  a  straight  shoot ; 
then  bud  one  or  more  varieties  into  it,  of  any  height  desi- 
rable, in  the  beginning  of  August.  To  accomplish  this 
object,  it  should  be  performed  towards  evening  or  on  a 
damp  day ;  and  if  you  find  the  bark  does  not  part  freely, 
by  want  of  sufficiency  of  juice,  it  should  be  delayed  a  few 
days  longer,  or  the  bud  will  perish.  A  little  judgment  is 
required  in  selecting  the  bud  most  suited  for  the  purpose ; 
but  to  enable  the  amateur  to  tell  without  difficulty,  he 
should  observe  that  when  the  bud  at  the  end  of  the  shoot 
is  formed,  it  is  then  at  maturity,  and  should  be  used  with- 
out delay.  Roses,  properly  speaking,  should  not  be  bud- 
ded before  August,  unless  it  be  the  China  Rose ;  then  the 
spring  will  be  the  best.  As  soon  after  budding  as  you 
discover  the  bud  has  taken,  loosen  the  bandage  and  trim  off 
the  top  of  the  stalk  to  within  two  shoots  of  the  bud,  until 
the  spring ;  and  when  the  bud  begins  to  put,  trim  off  the 
balance  of  the  newly  formed  shoot.  Flowers  produced 
from  the  bud  will  be  more  brilliant  than  those  formed  on 
the  original  tree.  In  dry  weather,  the  stock  of  budded 
plants  will  be  much  improved  the  first  year,  if  watered. 
In  preparing  your  buds  the  old  practice  of  removing  the 
wood  from  the  bud  is  indispensable  to  your  success. 
Spring  budding,  with  the  tender  Roses,  is  not  important. 
After  the  bud  is  inserted,  if  bass  matting  is  not  handy, 
tape  can  be  substituted.  The  time  required  for  buds  to  be 
established  is  about  six  weeks. 

The  pruning  of  Tree  Roses  is  practised  at  different 
periods  by  gardeners.  Spring  will  be  found  the  best  time ; 
and  leaving  but  two  eyes  to  each  branch,  will  make  them 


ROSE.  239 

more  vigorous,  and  bloom  more  freely.  Many  experi- 
ments have  been  tried  in  budding-  the  Rose  on  different 
shrubs,  which  will  take  ;  but  the  constitution  of  the  varie- 
ties is  so  conflicting  with  nature,  the  experiments  have 
failed  to  be  of  any  benefit.  Those,  therefore,  who  wish  to 
change  the  color  by  this  means,  may  consider  such  a  plan 
abortive.  When  tender  Roses  are  budded  on  hardy  stocks, 
the  wood  must  be  sufficiently  protected  to  withstand  the 
winter ;  but  if  the  amateur  has  a  pit  or  cellar,  it  is  best  to 
pot  them  off  in  November,  place  them  in  safety,  and  re- 
plant them  in  the  spring.  The  particular  mode  of  bud- 
ding will  be  found  in  another  part  of  this  work  ;  and  the 
variety  for  use  will  depend  on  the  fancy  of  the  operator. 


ROSE    BAY. 

( RHODODENDRON. ) 

This  is  a  well  known  evergreen  shrub,  combining  some 
of  the  most  beautiful  varieties  of  plants  in  cultivation. 
It  grows  from  one  to  twenty  feet  high,  branching,  with 
oblong,  obtuse,  and  thick  leaves,  narrower  near  the  foot- 
stalk, and  reflexed  at  the  margin ;  veined,  ragged,  of  a  deep 
color  on  the  surface,  ferruginous  beneath,  and  surrounding 
the  branches  upon  long  petioles.  The  flowers  are  various, 
on  long  peduncles,  and  in  terminal  umbels.  There  is  a 
numerous  family  of  the  Rhododendrons  in  cultivation  ; 
those  natives  of  this  country  are  perfectly  hardy,  and  are 


240  A  GUIDE  TO  FLORICULTURE. 

found  growing  in  mountainous  districts,  flowering  from 
May  to  July. 

The  Ncpaul  species  will  grow  twenty  feet  high,  and  is 
decidedly  the  best  in  cultivation,  producing  scarlet  and 
crimson  flowers,  truly  gorgeous  in  appearance,  and  equal 
to  velvet  in  richness ;  and  the  flowers  are  abundantly 
supplied  with  a  liquid  sweet  as  honey.  They  may  be 
increased  by  layering,  inarching,  or  budding,  and  by 
seeds,  as  they  are  found  to  seed  freely.  They  ought  to 
be  highly  appreciated  on  that  account,  by  which  means 
many  fine  hybrids  have  been  raised.  To  grow  from 
seeds,  the  soil  should  be  one  part  sandy  loam  and  two 
parts  leaf  mould.  In  sowing,  great  care  should  be  taken 
not  to  cover  the  seeds  with  the  soil,  as  they  are  very 
minute ;  never  water  them  except  with  a  syringe,  so  as 
10  imitate  dew  as  much  as  possible,  and  keep  them  cov- 
ered with  a  purple  colored  bell  glass.  When  the  seed- 
lings are  to  be  transplanted,  add  a  little  more  loam  to 
the  composition,  and  the  plants  should  be  well  supplied 
with  water  while  growing.  After  your  seedlings  are 
potted  off,  treat  them  the  same  as  the  Camellia  Japoni- 
ca ;  the  treatment  of  both  being  similar. 


RAGGED    ROBIN. 

(LYCHNIS  DIOCEA.) 

This  is  a  perennial  flowering  plant,  a  native  of  Eng- 
land ;  its  name  is  taken  from  the  ragged  appearance  of 


/  1 


raTCnr'OT 


MO8U.. 


RAGGED   ROBIN.  241 

its  beautiful  double  pink  colored  flower.  It  is  inclined 
to  run,  as  the  stem  will  grow  from  twelve  to  eighteen 
inches.  It  is  perfectly  distinct  from  the  Cuckoo  Flower 
(L.  Jlosculi),  which  is  often  sold  for  it  by  gardeners. — 
The  treatment  of  one,  however,  is  the  same  as  the  other; 
it  is  easily  propagated  by  division  of  the  root.  It  does  no: 
seed  in  this  country ;  it  should  be  shifted  once  or  twice 
in  the  year  into  a  rich  loam,  and  is  better  for  being 
protected  through  the  winter.  From  May  to  June  it  is 
covered  with  blossoms  of  a  rich  pink  color,  and  double. 
It  is  a  good  border  flower,  being  perfectly  hardy,  and  at 
the  same  time  a  fine  plant  for  parlor  culture. 


RANUNCULUS. 

(RANUNCULUS  ASIATICUS.) 

"  Yet  still  shall  there  be  joy, 

When  God  hath  poured  forth  beauty,  and,  in  the  voice 
Of  human  love,  shall  still  behold  in  praise 
Over  his  glorious  gifts !     O,  Father!  Lord, 
The  all  beneficent .'  I  bless  thy  name 
That  thou  hast  mantled  the  green  earth  with  flowers, 
Liking  our  hearts  to  nature." 

The  Ranunculus  is  a  beautiful,  half  hardy,  tuberous- 
rooted  perennial ;  a  native  of  the  Levant,  generally  covered 
from  May  to  June  with  magnificent  flowers  of  various  col- 
ors. The  leaves  are  ternate  ;  segments  toothed  or  cut,  tri- 
fled j  the  stem  upright  and  branching,  flowers  at  the  extreme. 
21 


242  A   GUIDE   TO    FLORICULTURE. 

This  beautiful  flower  was  introduced  into  Europe  as  far 
"back  as  1569,  and  has  always  been  cultivated  as  a  florist's 
flower.  Its  appearance  and  habit  being  similar  to  the 
Butter  Cup,  found  near  marshy  places  ;  it  has  passed  under 
the  name  of  the  "  Persian  King  Cup."  The  form  of  the 
flower  resembling  the  Rose,  the  petals  being  shorter  and 
more  compact ;  their  colors  ranging  from  white  to  black  ; 
some  edged,  like  the  Picotee,  and  others  striped  like 
the  Carnation;  others  selfs  of  a  richness  and  delicacy 
unsurpassed. 

Possessing  such  a  diversity  of  colors,  the  Ranunculus 
has  a  most  beautiful  and  imposing  aspect.  The  flower 
stem  is  generally  about  fifteen  inches  high,  with  a  flower 
at  the  top,  and  laterals ;  and  frequently  one  plant  will  be 
embellished  with  from  ten  to  sixteen  blossoms ; 

"  Emblems  of  modest  grace, 
Of  unaffected  dignity  and  ease, 
Of  pure  and  elegant  simplicity." 

The  root  is  formed  of  tubers,  similar  to  the  Dahlia,  but 
small,  only  about  one  inch  in  length.  Some  gardeners 
profess  to  have  as  many  as  eighteen  hundred  varieties  with 
names.  It  is  generally  conceded  that  JOSEPH  TYSO  and  SON, 
of  Wallingford,  Berkshire  (authors  of  a  treatise  on  crossing 
this  flower  artificially),  have  the  best  collection  in  England. 
Generally  speaking,  this  flower  has  not  succeeded  in  this 
country,  which,  I  think,  must  be  attributed  to  want  of 
attention,  in  not  planting  them  in  suitable  soil,  and  in  a 
situation  congenial  to  them  in  this  climate.  Mr.  WALKER, 
of  Dorchester,  near  Boston,  an  enterprising  florist,  I  am 
informed,  cultivates  them  to  perfection.  A  collection  car. 


RANUNCULUS.  243 

be  purchased  in  England  for  about  three  dollars  per  hun- 
dred ;  a  superior  assortment  would  cost  fifty ;  this  would 
comprise  some  of  the  most  select.  Those  generally  brought 
here  and  sold  with  Harlem  bulbs,  are  worthless  ;  the  tubers 
appear  fair  to  the  eye,  which  is  all  that  can  be  said  of 
them. 

The  Ranunculus  generally  flowers  a  short  time  after  the 
Tulip,  if  planted  in  February,  as  soon  as  the  frost  is  out 
of  the  ground  and  can  be  worked.  There  are  single  and 
semi-double  flowers,  but  the  double  are  considered  the 
florist's  flower  ;  others  are  of  no  value.  The  florist's  flower 
only  wants  to  be  seen  to  be  appreciated. 

Probably  one  of  the  most  exciting  pleasures  would  be  to 
raise  those  plants  from  seed  procured  from  England.  They 
should  be  sown  in  February,  in  pans  or  boxes,  in  a  sandy 
loam,  collected  from  the  commons  after  the  turf  is  taken 
off,  with  a  portion  of  old  manure,  mixed  at  least  six  months 
before  being  used.  If  planted  in  old  earth  with  new  ma- 
nure they  will  rot.  In  the  second  season  your  plants  will 
flower,  and  in  most  cases  will  be  single ;  this  circumstance 
should  not  discourage  you;  still  persevere,  and  the  next 
season  you  will  find  them  more  double,  and  some  of  the 
best  will  send  up  a  pericarp,  and  in  most  instances  without 
anthers.  This  will  be  a  good  time  to  impregnate;  take  a 
camel's  hair  pencil,  and  collect  the  pollen  from  the  anthers 
of  semi-double  flowers,  and  apply  it  to  the  pericarp  of  those 
possessing  good  proportions,  and  nearly  double ;  by  fertil- 
izing the  seed  vessel,  you  will  be  enabled  to  get  superior 
seeds,  which  will  give  you  some  advantage  over  those  you 
can  purchase. 

In  planting  tubers,  great  care  is  necessary  to  place  them 


244  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

erect ;  for  if  planted  sidewise  it  will  undoubtedly  throw 
the  flower  stem  in  the  same  direction.  The  Dahlia,  if 
planted  upside  down,  will  naturally  find  its  way  up,  but 
not  so  with  the  Ranunculus.  To  this  circumstance  may 
be  attributed  so  many  failures  by  persons  not  acquainted 
with  this  fact.  The  proper  time  to  divide  the  tubers  is 
when  you  take  them  up,  after  the  flower-stem  has  died 
down,  as  the  tubers  then  are  not  so  brittle  as  when  dry. 
When  the  tubers  appear  dry,  pack  them  in  sand,  to  remain 
until  the  time  of  planting  again. 

In  England,  where  the  summers  are  frequented  with 
gentle  showers,  these  flowers  can  be  produced  at  any  time 
through  the  year,  by  planting  accordingly ;  which,  no 
doubt,  with  proper  attention,  could  be  effected  in  this  coun- 
try. The  soil  best  suited  to  the  culture  of  the  Ranunculus 
would  be  a  fresh  maiden  soil  with  a  small  portion  of  cow 
manure  four  years  old,  well  incorporated  with  it.  The 
tubers  must  be  planted  about  two  inches  deep,  and  in  dry 
weather  should  be  watered  between  the  roots ;  and  when 
in  flower,  they  should  be  screened  from  the  sun,  to  pre- 
serve the  purity  of  their  colors. 


SCHIZANTHUS. 

(RETUSUS.) 

This  beautiful  annual  is  a  native  of  the  mountains  of 
South  America,  and  was  introduced  into  Europe  in  1831. 


SCHIZANTHUS.  245 

It  is  of  easy  culture,  and  is  fast  gaming  its  way  into  pub- 
lic favor.  The  footstalk  of  the  plant  is  erect ;  tubes  of 
the  corolla  longer  than  the  calyx  ;  lips  variously  cut,  mid- 
dle one,  narrow  shaped  ;  the  upper,  square  and  abrupt ;  the 
seed  simple,  shell-like,  possessing  a  wrinkled  integument ; 
albumen  fleshy.  There  are  a  number  of  varieties  of  the 
Schizanthus  ;  their  flowers  are  rather  fanciful  and  novel  in 
appearance. 

All  of  this  family  grow  readily  in  a  rich  loam ;  the 
treatment  of  one  suits  the  whole ;  and  the  plant  is  found  to 
do  best  if  the  seed  be  sown  in  August.  When  the  seed- 
lings have  formed  two  leaves  they  should  be  potted  off  into 
thumb  pots,  and  when  the  pots  are  filled  with  roots,  they 
should  be  shifted  into  one  of  three  inches.  Great  care 
must  be  observed  against  injuring  the  root  fibres,  as  they 
are  tender,  and  cause  the  leaves  to  droop.  When  you  dis- 
cover your  plants  in  this  condition,  you  must  not  give 
them  water,  even  if  their  appearance  should  lead  you  to 
suppose  that  to  be  necessary.  It  should  be  kept  from  the 
frost,  and  in  May  repotted  into  one  of  five  inches,  if  in 
tended  to  flower  in  the  house  ;  or  it  may  be  placed  in  the 
open  ground.  To  secure  a  second  crop  of  this  delightful 
flower,  sow  more  seed  in  the  spring.  Such  is  the  nature 
of  its  disposition  to  flower,  that,  if  well  grown,  it  will  be 
studded  with  from  five  to  eight  hundred  flowers  at  a  time, 
and  it  will  continue  to  flower  about  five  months  ;  this 
makes  it  a  desirable  plant  for  the  parlor  or  flower  garden. 
The  Schizanthus  does  not  like  a  moist  situation,  neither 
should  it  be  planted  where  the  wind  will  affect  it,  or 
it  will  be  destroyed.  The  soil  should  be  a  sandy  loam.  *• 


246  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

STAR   OF   BETHLEHEM. 

(ORNITHOGALUM. ) 

Of  this  variety  of  bulbous  rooted  plants  there  are  over 
one  hundred,  and  nearly  the  whole  tribe  is  worthless.  The 
one  best  known  throws  up  a  scape  about  four  inches  high, 
having  a  number  of  white  star-like  flowers,  which  appear 
in  the  spring.  The  leaves  are  similar  to  the  Crocus,  with 
a  white  stripe  up  the  centre.  It  is  generally  planted  along 
the  edge  of  the  borders  of  the  beds,  where  it  shows  to  the 
best  advantage.  There  are  one  or  two  suitable  for  the 
green-house,  but  we  seldom  see  them  there,  their  places 
being  filled  with  more  desirable  plants. 

There  are  Frenchmen  periodically  traveling  this  coun- 
try, selling  plants,  and  shrubs,  and  bulbous  roots ;  the  bulbs 
generally  are  healthy  looking,  and  well  calculated  to  de- 
ceive. The  larger  kinds  are  sold  for  the  Josephine  (an 
Amaryllis  Lily),  and  it  generally  turns  out  to  be  an  infe- 
rior kind  of  the  Ornithogalum ;  those  of  a  smaller  kind 
are  sold  for  the  Belladonna.  It  would  be  well  for  persons 
to  be  on  their  guard  and  purchase  no  plants  or  bulbs  ex- 
cept of  regular  established  gardeners  or  seedsmen,  who 
pride  themselves  on  a  reputation  ;  and  in  case  of  any  mis- 
take, you  have  always  some  resource  for  a  correction. 
This  is  not  the  case  with  the  warranty  of  a  stranger,  who 
generally  sends  another  as  honest  as  himself  the  following 
year,  with  another  set  of  flaming  pictures  of  nondescript 
plants,  with  colors  contrary  to  the  nature  of  flowers,  in 
plants  which  they  Dretend  to  represent. 


SCARLET   VALERIAN.  247 

SCARLET   VALERIAN. 

(VALERIANA  RUBRA.) 

This  is  a  fine  herbaceous  perennial,  growing  about 
twenty  inches  high,  smooth  and  glaucous,  branching  in 
leafy  stems.  The  leaves  are  opposite,  some  entire,  others 
toothed,  sessile.  The  flowers  are  numerous,  growing  in 
unilateral  spikes  of  dark  pink  color,  scentless,  flowering 
from  June  until  the  early  frost  sets  in.  This  pretty  flower 
is  found  growing  in  great  perfection  on  old  walls  in  Eng- 
land, but  will  not  stand  the  winter  of  this  country ;  it 
should  therefore  be  potted  in  the  fall,  and  brought  into  the 
house. 

This  plant  was  originally  found  growing  on  rocks  on 
the  Alpine  mountains,  in  great  abundance.  It  is  quite 
rustic  in  appearance,  and  requires  no  recommendation  from 
the  florist.  Its  intrinsic  worth,  either  as  a  border  flower  or 
for  its  medicinal  properties,  will  speak  its  own  praise.  It 
does  well  in  a  loamy  soil,  and  is  quite  accommodating  in. 
its  nature  as  to  situation,  &c.  It  is  propagated  by  seed 
sown  in  the  spring,  and  by  cuttings  taken  also  in  the 
spring,  or  by  dividing  the  root,  so  that  each  piece  contain 
root  fibres.  There  are  several  varieties  of  the  Valerian  ; 
the  Scarlet  is  the  most  desirable  for  the  garden,  and  the 
others  for  their  medicinal  properties. 


248  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

SNOW   DROP. 

(GALANTHUS  NIVALIS.) 

41  Lone  flower,  hemmed  in  with  snows,  and  white  as  they, 
But  hardier  far,  once  more  I  see  thee  bend 
Thy  forehead,  as  if  fearful  to  offend, 
Like  an  unbidden  guest." 

This  bulbous  rooted  flowering  plant  is  indigenous  to 
England,  where  it  is  a  great  favorite.  It  is  one  of  the 
earliest  flowers  to  open  in  the  spring,  reminding  us  of  the 
approach  of  Flora  and  her  tribe  of  beauties,  even  when 
the  snow  is  on  the  ground.  It  is  of  easy  culture,  and 
should  be  planted  in  the  fall,  at  the  same  time  as  other 
bulbs.  It  has  a  delicate  stem,  rising  a  few  inches,  bearing 
a  white  flower  a  little  tinged  with  green  at  the  extreme 
end,  which  hangs  pendent ;  the  leaves  are  smooth,  of  a 
light  green.  To  make  it  appear  to  the  best  advantage  it 
should  be  planted  with  the  Purple  Crocus,  by  making  a 
ring  five  inches  in  diameter,  and  planting  the  Crocus  on 
the  outside,  and  the  Snow  Drop  in  the  centre.  It  does  well 
planted  in  a  pot  and  kept  in  the  house.  This  bulb  should 
be  kept  like  the  Crocus  through  the  summer  in  sand,  or 
they  will  dry  up.  The  damp  atmosphere  of  England  is 
more  congenial  for  these  bulbs  than  this  country,  as  I  have 
generally  found  them  to  disappear  about  the  second  or  third 
year  ;  from  which  it  must  be  inferred  this  climate  does  not 
suit  them.  This  lessens  their  value  as  a  bulb  for  general 
culture. 


SWEET   WILLIAM.  249 

SWEET    WILLIAM. 

(DIANTHUS   BARBATUS.) 

"  Sweet  William  small  has  form  and  aspect  bright. 
Like  that  sweet  flower  that  yields  great  Jove  delight.'' 

This  is  a  delightful  ornamental  evergreen,  flowering 
profusely  from  May  to  July,  and  bearing  all  the  colors  so 
susceptible  of  imparting  delight,  both  single  and  double. 
The  flowers  are  aggregate,  facicled ;  scales  ovate,  subulate, 
with  a  long  stem,  on  the  top  of  which  is  formed  a  corymb 
of  gorgeous  flowers,  well  adapted  for  bouquets  made  in  the 
French  style.  The  leaves  are  lanceolate,  forming  alto- 
gether one  of  the  best  border  flowers  in  cultivation. 

This  perennial  is  a  native  of  Germany,  and  has  been 
many  hundred  years  in  cultivation.  It  is  propagated  by 
seeds,  cuttings,  and  by  dividing  the  roots  in  the  fall.  It 
thrives  best  in  good  rich  soil,  and  is  perfectly  hardy.  The 
double  variety  is  best  for  being  protected  through  the  win- 
ter. To  propagate  by  seeds  it  will  be  necessary  to  so  A' 
them  in  April.  It  is  often  the  case  that  this  plant  will 
drop  its  seeds,  which  come  up  and  flower  the  following 
spring.  Should  the  winter  prove  severe  the  young  plants 
will  probably  perish  for  want  of  strength ;  therefore,  by 
early  sowing,  the  plants  become  strong,  and  the  cold  will 
have  no  effect  on  them.  Sow  in  April,  and  transplant, 
when  your  seedlings  are  about  two  inches  high,  to  whore 
they  are  intended  to  flower.  When  you  discover  a  flower 
of  superior  merit,  you  can  either  propagate  by  cuttings  or 


250  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

by  dividing  the  root  in  September.  Plant  them  out  to 
gain  strength  before  the  winter  sets  in.  You  will  find  in 
a  bed  of  seedlings  some  double  ;  these  you  should  pre- 
serve, by  dividing  the  roots,  and  giving  them  protection 
through  the  winter. 

This  flower  will  easily  cross  with  th.e  China  Pink,  and 
the  plants  raised  will  partake  of  the  qualities  of  both, 
making  a  beautiful  flowering  plant  for  the  border  for  two 
years.  Although  it  is  easily  propagated,  and  has  become 
common,  it  still  retains  a  place  in  all  gardens,  however 
small,  such  is  the  estimation  this  flower  is  held.  Differerv 
gardens  appear  to  have  them  of  different  colors.  Such 
novelty  makes  them  desirable,  and  they  are  not  likely  to 
be  supplanted  by  any  other 


ST.   JOHN'S   WORT. 

(HYPERICUM  KALMIANUM.) 

This  ornamental  shrub  is  not  cultivated  so  much  as  it 
should  be,  considering  its  showy  appearance  when  in 
flower,  which  is  during  the  months  of  June  and  July.  It 
is  then  literally  covered  with  bright  yellow  flowers,  of  an 
imposing  aspect.  It  is  evergreen,  and  will  grow  readily 
from  cuttings  in  a  sandy  loam ;  it  requires  plenty  of  water 
during  the  flowering  season,  and  is  easily  kept  through  the 
winter  in  a  pit  or  cellar,  watered  sparingly. 


SUNFLOWER.  251 

SUNFLOWER. 

(HELIANTHUS  MULTIFLORUS.) 

This  is  a  deciduous  herbaceous  plant,  a  native  of  this 
country,  as  well  as  of  South  America ;  perennial  in  duration, 
and  quite  ornamental  in  appearance,  bearing  yellow  double 
flowers  from  July  to  October,  growing  about  five  feet  high. 
The  leaves  are  three  nerved,  scabious,  the  lower  cordate,  upper 
ovate,  bearing  numerous  flowers  at  the  ends  of  the  shoots. 
In  its  pristine  state  the  flowers  are  single ;  cultivation  has 
made  them  double.  It  should  be  divided  at  the  root,  either 
in  the  spring  or  fall ;  the  latter  is  preferable,  and  should  be 
planted  into  a  different  place  in  the  garden,  for  if  allowed 
to  remain  in  one  place,  and  not  divided,  it  will  return  to 
its  primitive  state,  which  would  detract  that  beauty  so 
desirable. 

The  Helianthus  is  certainly  a  showy  flower,  not  much 
unlike  or  inferior  to  the  yellow  Dahlia,  to  which,  at  a  dis- 
tance, it  bears  some  resemblance.  The  sun  has  some 
influence  on  the  flowers,  as  they  will  be  found  to  turn  with 
it ;  the  flower  at  twelve  o'clock  mid-day  will  face  the  south. 

There  is  an  annual  variety,  both  single  and  double,  with 
noble  flowers,  very  large,  and  more  suitable  for  the  culture 
of  the  oil.  with  which  the  seeds  abound.  The  seeds  are 
useful  for  various  purposes,  and  if  raised  on  a  large  scale 
could  be  used  to  advantage  even  for  the  use  of  cattle  or 
poultry. 

The  H.  multiflorus  is  decidedly  the  best  variety  for  the 
flower  garden,  and  will  grow  in  any  soil.  When  raised  to 


252  A   GUIDE  TO   FLORICULTURE. 

perfection  it  is  seldom  found  to  seed,  which  is  of  no  conse- 
quence, as  it  increases  fast  at  the  roots. 


SNAP   DRAGON. 

(ANTIRRHINUM.) 

This  plant  is  an  ornamental  perennial  evergreen ;  flow- 
ers of  various  colors,  some  are  magnificent.  The  leaves 
are  lanceolate ;  the  flowers  spiked  ;  seed  pods  in  the  shape 
of  a  calf's  snout,  from  which  circumstance  it  often  goes  by 
that  name.  The  segment  of  the  calyx  obtuse.  It  is  a 
native  of  England ;  and  flowers  from  June  to  August,  gen- 
erally the  first  season  if  the  seed  be  sown  early,  and  it 
sports  much  in  colors ;  when  you  discover  a  seedling  of 
extraordinary  beauty  take  cuttings  in  September,  and  pro- 
tect them  through  the  winter  ;  they  will  make  good  flower- 
ing plants  for  the  border,  in  the  spring ;  by  this  plan  you 
can  secure  one  of  the  best  border  flowers  we  have.  Al- 
though this  plant  is  considered  hardy,  it  is  very  apt  to  be 
cut  off*  in  severe  weather.  It  will  flower  better  and  earlier 
if  protected,  and  will  accommodate  itself  to  almost  any  kind 
of  soil. 


SCARLET  LYCHNIS.  253 

SCARLET   LYCHNIS. 

(LYCHNIS  CHALCEDONICA.) 

This  is  a  splendid  hardy  perennial,  growing  about  two 
feet  high,  with  a  bunch  of  beautiful  flowers,  corymb  form, 
of  a  beautiful  dazzling  scarlet  in  June  and  July ;  the  leaves 
are  lanceolate,  and  cordate.  It  is  easily  raised  from  seed, 
is  perfectly  hardy,  and  can  also  be  easily  increased  by  di- 
viding the  roots.  It  is  a  native  of  Russia,  and  was  imported 
into  England  several  hundred  years  ago.  It  is  found  to 
grow  in  any  garden  soil.  The  double  is  very  desirable, 
the  flowers  on  the  top  form  a  ball,  which  gives  it  quite  a 
unique  appearance.  It  is  increased  by  dividing  the  root  in 
the  fall,  or  by  cuttings  of  the  flower  stem,  taken  the  same 
as  the  Scarlet  Lobelia.  It  should  never  be  left  out  in  the 
winter,  as  it  does  not  flower  so  well.  There  are  several 
varieties  of  the  Lychnis ;  most  are  confined  to  the  green- 
house, being  rather  tender. 


SWEET   PEA. 

(LATHYRUS  ODORATA.) 


There  is  a  great  variety  of  the  Sweet  Pea ;  some  are  ex- 
tremely pretty  annuals,  natives  of  different  countries,  flow- 
ering in  June  and  July.  It  will  flower  stronger  and  the 


254  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

colors  be  more  brilliant,  if  the  seed  be  sown  in  the  fall,  and 
the  seedlings  kept  through  the  winter  in  thumb  pots ;  or 
they  may  be  sown  in  the  open  ground,  and  some  litter 
thrown  over  them  as  a  protection.  Some  of  the  perennial 
varieties  are  well  calculated  for  the  arbor,  growing  from 
eight  to  ten  feet  high,  bearing  beautiful  Rose  colored  flow- 
ers from  July  to  September.  They  need  no  protection 
through  the  winter,  as  they  die  down  to  the  ground  in  the 
fall,  and  put  forth  in  the  spring.  The  perennial  varieties 
are  cultivated  to  some  extent  in  Europe,  as  we  generally 
find  them  with  the  Honeysuckle,  entering  the  lattice  work 
of  the  cottages,  giving  a  most  lively  appearance  to  those 
dwellings  throughout  the  summer.  The  flowers  impart 
beauty,  taste,  and  usefulness  at  the  same  time. 


SIDESADDLE,   OR   PITCHER   PLANT 

(SARACENIA   PURPUREA.) 

Of  this  singular  tribe  of  plants  there  appear  to  be  sever* 
varieties  indigenous  to  this  country,  found  in  swamps  A 
the  north-western  part  of  Indiana.  The  leaf  is  compova 
of  a  hollow  tube,  which  holds  about  a  wine-glass  of  w..tur. 
A  leafy  appendage  is  attached  to  the  extremity  of  Mch 
tube,  which  is  said  to  cover  the  orifice  in  rainy  weatw  r,  to 
exclude  it ;  this  is  somewhat  problematical,  as  I  could  never 
see  any  difference  in  their  appearance  in  rainy  weather  in 
the  appendage,  or  cover,  so  called.  The  tube  contains 


SIDESADDLE,    OR    PITCHER    PLANT.  255 

water  it  is  true,  and  flies  are  induced  to  enter  their  living 
sepulchre  (if  it  may  be  so  termed).  This  singularity  of  the 
leaf,  whatever  may  be  the  design  of  nature,  appears 
strange  ;  but  it  is  generally  supposed  the  pitcher  shape  leaf 
is  formed  to  supply  the  plant  with  water  during  the  dry  time 
in  the  autumn.  The  inner  parts  of  those  hollow  cylinder 
shaped  leaves  are  lined  with  hair,  which  points  downwards, 
•and  there  is  but  little  doubt  that  flies  which  enter  (gene- 
rally the  Blue  Bottle  race),  when  once  in,  are  prevented  from 
crawling  out  by  the  formation  of  tha  inner  side  of  ths 
tubes ;  and  in  all  probability  the  water  possesses  some  de- 
leterious effects ;  thus  destroying  the  insects  when  once 
within  the  convex  of  the  leaf. 

The  singularities  of  this  plant  exhibit  one  of  the  phencm- 
enas  in  nature  so  remarkable  and  interesting  in  floriculture. 
In  its  cultivation  it  must  be  treated  as  a  swamp  plant.  Ths 
soil  should  be  taken  from  a  swamp  and  kept,  in  its  grow- 
ing season,  in  a  pan  of  water,  and  the  plant  itself  surround- 
ed with  moss.  It  maybe  increased  by  seed,  or  by  division 
of  the  root.  If  by  seeds,  they  should  be  sown  in  the 
spring  and  be  kept  moist.  When  the  plants  are  of  suffi- 
cient size  transplant  into  five  inch  pots,  and  treat  them  the 
same  as  full  grown  plants ;  if  by  division  of  the  roots  it 
should  be  performed  in  the  spring  or  fall.  It  will  not  thrive 
in  the  sun ;  the  shade  is  indispensable  to  flower  them  to 
perfection. 


256  A  GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

TEN   WEEK   STOCK. 

(MATHIOLA  ANNA.)  '' 

"  Oh  faint,  indeed,  are  outward  hues, 

Compared  with  thy  rich  mental  light; 
Each  day  thy  thoughts  their  rays  diffuse, 
Yet  grow  each  added  day  more  bright." 

This  is  a  beautiful  annual  variety  of  flowering  plants, 
bearing  flowers  of  different  colors  nearly  the  whole  season. 
The  stem  is  herbaceous,  erect,  and  branching  ;  the  leaves 
lanceolate,  blunt,  and  hoary ;  the  seed  pods  long,  without 
glands.  Plants  generally  flower  in  te?i  weeks  after  the  seeds 
are  sown  under  favorable  circumstances,  and  by  sowing  them 
at  different  periods  they  may  be  brought  to  flower  at  almost 
any  season,  in  the  green-house.  It  is  sometimes  called  the 
" Gilliflowcr"  and  of  this  genera  there  are  a  number  of 
varieties ;  the  best  are  the  Brompton,  Queen,  Nosegay,  and 
many  others  of  late  introduction,  some  with  Wall  flower 
leaf;  the  whole  family  will  grow  well  in  a  sandy  loam. 

The  Stock  is  highly  esteemed  for  its  fragrance,  easy 
culture,  and  showy  appearance  in  the  flower  garden,  or  in 
pots,  with  the  exception  of  the  annual  variety ;  the  others 
will  require  protection  through  the  winter,  being  biennial 
in  duration. 

It  is  the  opinion  of  some  botanists  that  the  seed  vessel 
which  produces  the  double  variety  is  diseased ;  this  may 
arise  from  local  causes;  consequently  the  flowers  are  de- 
prived of  the  fructification  necessary  to  propagate  the  spe- 
cies. By-examining  the  flowers  frequently  a  single  anther 


TEN    WEEK   STOCK.  257 

will  be  found,  which  is  the  only  part  possessing  fecundat- 
ing properties,  which,  like  disease,  generally  affect  those 
near.  The  infectious  parts  operate  on  the  single  flowers 
within  their  vicinity,  contaminating  the  others  and  pro- 
ducing diseased  flowers,  or,  in  other  words,  double  flowers. 
This  may  be  true  logic,  and  not  understanding  botany  suf- 
ficiently, I  cannot  contradict  its  doctrine.  If  seeds  that 
produce  double  flowers  be  diseased,  it  is  surprising  that  so 
many  plants  of  a  double  nature  are  so  vigorous  in  growth. 
We  know  that  people  of  a  diseased  nature  have  generally 
a  weak  instead  of  a  robust  constitution,  and  that  their  pro- 
geny are  generally  the  same,  and  will  soon  cease  to  exist ; 
thus  we  often  see  a  whole  family  cut  off  by  consumption. 
I  should  suppose,  by  analogy,  that  plants  were  subject  to 
the  same  fatality. 

I  have  noticed  gardeners,  who  were  in  the  habit  of  rais- 
in or  Stocks,  tie  the  double  and  single  flowering  stems  to- 
gether ;  this  is  termed  by  the  florists,  marrying  them,  or 
in  other  words,  I  suppose,  to  convey  the  disease  to  the  sin- 
gle, in  case  the  Bee  should  not  perform  the  operation  so 
desirable  to  the  florist  to  obtain  double  flowers.  It  is  also 
asserted  that  the  Bee  will  not  go  from  flower  to  flower  of 
a  different  family.  How  that  insect  should  possess  so  dis- 
criminating a  knowledge  is  strange.  The  works  of  "  na- 
ture's God  "  appear  wonderful,  far  beyond  the  understand- 
ing of  man.  This  knowledge  cannot  be  imparted  to  the 
Bee  to  prevent  plants  of  a  different  genera  from  being 
crossed ;  for  we  know  that  flowers  within  the  proximation 
of  each  other  will  hybridize  without  the  Bee.  Plants  of  a 
different  genera  have  been  crossed  by  the  skilful  hand  of 
the  florist,  but  with  more  difficulty  than  others:  and  unless 
22 


258  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

the  different  plants  ripen  seeds  in  this  country  I  admit 
its  futility,  and  when  such  plants  are  crossed,  they  are  of 
short  duration,  because,  being  opposite  to  the  laws  of  na- 
ture, or,  as  botanists  may  term  it,  being  of  diseased  consti- 
tution, it  brings  on  a  natural  decay,  and  thus  ceases  to  exist. 
There  is  much  to  learn  on  this  subject ;  and  it  is  to  be  re- 
gretted that  every  florist  is  not  a  botanist,  as  many  errors 
in  regard  to  plants  could  be  easily  corrected.  It  is  evident 
that  the  seed  pod  of  the  Stock  producing  the  double  flowers 
is  diseased,  as  may  be  discovered  in  their  malformation,  by 
being  a  little  drawn  out  of  shape ;  but  whether  the  seed  be 
also  diseased,  is  a  question  of  mere  speculation. 

If  the  seed  of  the  Balsams  are  improved  by  keeping 
several  years,  would  not  the  Stock  also  improve  by  the 
same  treatment?  Many  statements  made  by  botanists 
years  ago  are  now  considered  nugatory.  The  unders*and- 
ing  is  enlarged  by  education ;  and,  once  enlightened,  it 
is  the  nature  of  mankind  to  be  delving  into  the  merits, 
causes,  and  effects  of  things.  So  it  is  with  the  florist  in 
his  researches,  as  well  as  the  botanist.  Cultivation  has 
done  much  in  the  improvement  of  flowers  —  the  monstro- 
sity of  the  vegetable  kingdom  appears  strange  in  the  ano- 
maly of  nature,  but  double  flowers  are  so  apparent  as  to 
create  no  doubt ;  but  the  mystery  of  producing,  or  rather 
the  cause,  is  not  so  fully  explained  as  may  appear  at  first 
sight ;  still  the  age  of  seed  may  in  some  degree  have  a 
tendency  to  weaken  the  germinating  properties  of  the 
seeds,  and  cause  them  to  produce  stamens  instead  of  pe- 
tals. In  this  way  the  seed  may  be  diseased,  and  yet  pro- 
duce strong  plants. 


TUBEROSE.  259 

TUBEROSE. 

(POLYANTHUS  TUBEROSA.) 

This  well  known  bulbous  rooted  plant  is  a  native  of  the 
East  Indies.  It  has  been  in  cultivation  ever  since  1629, 
and  is  generally  admired  for  its  grateful  fragrance.  The 
climate  of  this  country  is  well  adapted  for  its  culture,  while 
that  of  Europe,  being  too  cool  and  damp,  does  not  do  well 
the  second  season,  even  if  cultivated  in  the  green-house,  which 
makes  England  dependent  on  this  country  and  Italy  for 
its  yearly  supply.  The  bulbs  increase  fast,  enabling  the 
florist  to  raise  great  quantities ;  and  it  has  become  a  great 
article  of  exportation  every  season.  The  flower  has  nothing 
very  prepossessing  in  its  appearance,  which  is  a  double 
white ;  but  the  fragrance  emitted  is  certainly  delightful, 
and  desirable  for  the  garden  or  parlor.  Its  culture  is  easy, 
either  in  the  pot  or  the  flower  garden.  If  cultivated  in  a  pot 
one  of  five  inches  is  the  best  size ;  plant  them  two  inches  deep ; 
the  soil  should  be  a  sandy  loam,  and  if  intended  to  flower 
early  can  be  forwarded  with  bottom  heat  in  March.  As 
the  flower  stem  advances  it  should  be  supported  with  a 
stick.  When  planted  into  the  open  ground  the  last  of 
April  is  the  best  time,  as  the  plant  is  tender  and  liable  to 
be  destroyed  by  the  spring  frost.  The  leaves  of  this  plant 
are  linear,  slightly  channelled,  about  twelve  to  fifteen  inches 
long,  of  a  pea-green  color ;  the  stem  is  from  three  to  four 
feet  high ;  flowers  double,  and  spiked,  not  more  than  two 
or  three  are  expanded  at  a  time ;  generally  odoriferous ; 
rather  dingy  in  color. 


260  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

In  planting  the  bulbs  it  will  be  necessary  to  divest  them 
of  all  offsets,  otherwise  the  plant  will  not  flower,  for  the 
offsets  derive  too  much  nourishment  from  the  main  bulb, 
and  prove  injurious.  The  offsets  should  be  planted  in  a 
bed  by  themselves,  and  in  the  third  season  they  will  flower. 
When  the  frost  destroys  the  foliage  in  the  fall  take  them 
up,  and  place  them  in  a  room  to  dry,  previous  to  packing 
them  away  for  the  winter  ;  or  the  bulbs  can  be  packed  in 
dry  sand,  and  then  are  not  so  likely  to  be  injured  by  frost. 

This  plant  is  well  calculated  for  the  parlor,  as  it  will 
bear  much  confinement  in  a  room,  and  is  not  injured  if 
kept  from  the  window  while  flowering,  and  when  done  it 
may  be  turned  out  of  the  pot,  without  disturbing  the  ball, 
into  the  open  ground,  which  will  save  much  trouble.  When 
this  bulb  is  planted  in  a  moderate  sized  garden,  after  the 
rays  of  the  sun  have  declined,  it  will  be  filled  with  fra- 
grance, refreshing  the  mind,  in  the  cool  of  the  evening, 
after  the  avocation  of  the  day  is  spent 


TEA. 

(THEA  CHINENSIS.) 

This  is  an  evergreen  shrub,  a  native  of  China  and 
Japan,  cultivated  to  a  greater  extent  in  China  than  the 
latter  place.  It  being  so  near  related  to  the  Camellia 
Japonica,  the  treatment  of  one  is  also  applicable  to  the 
other.  In  the  green-house  this  plant  seldom  exceeds  six 


TEA.  261 

feet  in  height.  The  branches  are  alternate  and  numerous, 
furnished  with  elliptical,  oblong,  lanceolated  pointed  leaves, 
and  serrated,  with  the  exception  of  the  base ;  smooth  on 
both  sides,  shining,  marked  with  a  rib,  and  veined,  sup- 
ported alternately  on  short  foot  stalks,  two  or  three  inches 
long,  and  about  one  wide.  The  flowers  are  sometimes 
solitary,  and  in  clusters  of  three  occasionally,  at  the  axiles 
of  the  leaves,  bearing  a  flower  similar  to  the  Myrtle,  con- 
sisting of  a  short  green  calyx  with  five  lobes,  the  corolla 
four  or  five,  large  snow  white  petals  ;  stamens  numerous, 
with  yellow  anthers  connected  at  the  base,  and  a  pistil  with 
a  three  parted  style.  Fruit  and  capsule  three  celled. 
How  many  varieties  of  the  Tea  plant  exist  is  uncertain. 

The  article  imported  as  a  beverage  is  picked  from  the 
same  plant  at  different  seasons,  and  the  different  modes  of 
curing  the  leaves  make  their  difference  in  the  import- 
ance and  worth,  rather  than  in  being  the  proceeds  of  dif- 
ferent varieties  of  plants.  As  an  evergreen  plant,  the  Tea 
is  certainly  ornamental,  and,  like  the  Camellia,  will  bear 
considerable  frost.  There  is  no  doubt  if  this  plant  sported 
in  colors,  like  its  prototype,  the  Camellia,  k  would  be 
equally  as  much  propagated  ;  still  it  is  deserving  the  foster- 
ing care  of  lovers  of  ornamental  shrubs.  It  is  easily  pro- 
pagated by  seed  sown  in  the  spring  in  a  rich  sandy  loam. 
When  the  seeds  are  up  and  two  or  more  leaves  appear, 
they  should  be  potted  off  carefully  into  the  smallest  size 
pots,  and  when  re-established,  should  be  treated  the  same 
as  if  full  grown ;  the  third  season  the  seedlings  will,  under 
r- roper  treatment,  flower  and  bear  fruit. 


262  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

TIGER   FLOWER. 

(TIGRIDIA  CONCHIFLORA.) 

"  This,  nor  gems,  nor  stores  of  gold, 
Nor  purple  state,  nor  culture,  can  bestow; 
But  God  alone  when  first  his  active  hand 
Imprints  the  secret  bias  of  the  soul, 
He,  mighty  Parent!  wise  and  just  in  all,. 
Free  as  the  vital  breeze  or  light  of  heaven, 
Reveals  the  charms  of  nature." 

This  plant  is  a  native  of  Mexico,  belonging  to  Mono,- 
delphia  Triandria,  of  the  natural  order  Iridea,  and  is 
much  esteemed  for  the  beauty  displayed  in  its  singular  form 
and  color,  which  is  a  splendid  yellow,  cup  shape,  the 
centre  tinged  and  spotted  with  bright  crimson,  so  diversi- 
fied as  to  give  a  unique  appearance  ;  it  is  composed  of  six 
petals ;  the  cup  itself  is  about  two  inches  across ;  the  outer 
petals  are  reflexed,  and  would  measure  about  four  inches 
across ;  the  stem  is  over  two  feet  in  height,  and,  like  most 
Mexican  plants,  it  is  rather  tender ;  in  a  dormant  state  it 
must  be  packed  in  sand  (dry,  of  course),  and  placed  where 
the  frost  will  not  injure  the  bulbs. 

To  flower  this  plant  well  will  require  a  rich  sandy 
loam  ;  it  will  not  succeed  in  a  clay  soil  which  is  too  stiff, 
unless  made  rich  with  manure  and  a  portion  of  sand  to 
render  it  of  such  consistence  as  to  admit  the  root  fibres  to 
pass  through  with  facility.  Many  persons  are  curious  in 
raising  bulbous  roots  from  seed,  for  the  sake  of  new  varie- 
ties ;  but  with  regard  to  this  genera,  I  should  say  it  is  not 


TIGER  FLOWER:  263 

worth  while,  as  it  would  take  several  years  to  bring  them 
to  bloom. 

Tigridia  conchiflora  is  a  species  of  the  Iris,  but  not  iu 
them  in  many  particulars,  for  the  Iris  will  sport  in  colors, 
this  plant  will  not;  consequently  as  no  new  varieties 
could  be  obtained,  it  would  be  futile  to  raise  from  seed 
more  particularly  as  the  bulbs  increase  fast  at  the  root,  arid 
the  offsets  in  most  cases  will  flower  the  first  or  second 
year.  As  this  plant  will  not  cross  with  the  Iris,  there  ap- 
pears to  be  a  difference  in  their  nature  and  habit.  There 
are  two  other  species  of  Tigridia,  but  T.  conchiflora  is 
decidedly  the  greatest  favorite  with  florists.  To  have  early 
flowers  it  will  be  necessary  to  plant  the  bulbs  in  pots  the 
beginning  of  March,  and  place  them  in  a  gentle  heat,  or 
in  a  frame  under  glass,  to  guard  against  frost,  and  be  care- 
ful in  watering  them,  or  you  will  cause  them  to  rot  — 
Towards  the  last  of  April  you  can  plant  them  into  the 
open  ground  about  two  inches  deep. 

These  plants  make  a  very  pretty  appearance  when  in  a 
bed  of  several  dozen.  The  flowers  last  but  one  day,  and 
nature  in  a  measure  has  amply  compensated  for  so  short  a 
life,  as  the  plants  continue  to  throw  up  flowers  ;  and  when 
in  a  bed,  from  the  circumstance  of  their  flowering  for  six 
or  eight  weeks,  the  excitement  created  for  so  long  a  time 
is  truly  pleasing,  by  their  gaudy  appearance,  making  them 
very  desirable  even  in  a  small  garden.  From  the  easy 
culture  of  this  plant  any  person  with  the  least  judgment 
can  manage  them.  I  presume  the  bulbs  could  be  oh- 
tained  of  any  gardener  near  principal  cities,  or  at  the  seed 
stores,  at  a  fair  price.  On  the  appearance  of  cold  weather, 
if  the  frost  be  intense,  which  sometimes  is  the  case,  throw 


264  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

matts  over  the  bed,  or  you  may  lose  them  ;  the  next  day 
you  had  better  take  them  up,  dry  arid  pack  them  in  saud ; 
be  careful  that  your  buibs  be  sufficiently  dry,  or  they  will 
mould  and  rot. 


TULIP. 

(TULIP   GESERIANA.) 

"  Then  comes  the  Tulip  race,  whose  beauty  plays 
Her  idle  freaks,  from  family  diffused 
To  family,  as  flies  the  father  dust» 
The  varied  colors  run;  and  while  they  break 
On  the  charmed  eye,  the  exulting  florist  marks 
With  secret  pride,  the  wonders  of  his  hand.'* 

This  is  one  of  those  ornamental  bulbous  rooted  plants 
that  has  created  so  much  excitement  in  the  floral  world, 
flowering  in  April  and  May.  Stem  generally  one  flowered 
and  smooth ;  corolla  at  the  extreme  ;  petals  acute,  bearded 
at  .the  end  ;  leaves  lanceolate.  This  beautiful  and  grace- 
ful flowering  bulb  is  a  native  of  the  Levant,  and  is  also 
common  along  the  banks  of  the  Bosphorus  and  different 
parts  of  Syria.  It  was  first  taken  from  its  native  country 
over  two  hundred  and  sixty  years  ago,  and  has  created 
much  excitement  among  florists  up  to  the  present  epoch. 
When  first  discovered  their  colors  were  crimson  and  yel- 
low ;  the  florist,  by  care  and  good  management,  has  made 
them  produce  all  the  gorgeous  colors  imaginable,  and  so 


TULIP. 


265 


harmoniously  blended  as  to  impart  gaiety  and  splendor  not 
to  be  found  in  any  other  flower  in  cultivation.  Such  is  the 
infatuation  produced  by  the  Tulip,  that  when  a  person  once 
begins  to  be  acquainted  with  them,  they  absorb  the  whole 
mind,  as  if  by  magic,  from  the  pursuit  of  other  flowers ; 
indeed  the  mania  was  so  great  for  them,  in  1637,  that  a 
collection  of  120  bulbs  sold  at  auction  for  over  forty-two 
thousand  dollars ;  one  variety  with  offsets  out  of  that  list 
sold  for  near  twenty-five  hundred  dollars.  The  following 
is  extracted  from  the  Encyclopaedia  Americana,  which 
gives  an  account,  almost  incredible,  of  their  estimation  in 
former  times:  —  "In  1636  and  1637,  a  real  Tulip  mania 
prevailed  in  Holland.  Bulbs,  which  the  seller  did  not 
possess,  were  sold  at  enormous  prices  on  condition  that 
they  should  be  delivered  to  the  purchaser  at  a  given  time  ; 
13,000  florins  were  paid  for  a  single  Semper- Augustus ;  for 
three  of  them  together,  30,000  florins ;  for  148  grains  weight, 
4500  florins ;  for  296  grains  of  Admiral  Liefkenshock^ 
more  than  4000  florins ;  for  Admiral  Enkhuigen,  more 
than  5000  florins  ;  and  for  a  Viceroy,  on  one  occasion,  was 
paid  4  tons  of  wheat,  8  tons  of  rye,  4  fat  oxen,  8  pigs,  12 
sheep,  2  hhds.  of  wine,  4  barrels  of  beer,  2  barrels  of  but- 
ter, 1000  pounds  of  cheese,  a  bundle  of  clothes,  and  a 
silver  pitcher.  At  an  auction,  in  Alimaer,  some  bulbs 
were  sold  for  more  than  90,000  florins.  An  individual,  in 
Amsterdam,  gained  more  than  68,000  florins  by  the  trade 
in  four  months.  In  one  city  in  Holland,  it  is  said,  more 
than  10,000,000  Tulip  bulbs  were  sold,  but  on  account  of 
the  purchasers  refusing  to  pay  the  sums  agreed  upon,  the 
States  General,  April  27th,  1637,  ordered  that  such  sums 
should  be  exacted  like  other  debts  in  the  common  way ; 

23 


266  A  GUIDE  TO  FLORICULTURE. 

the  extravagant  prices  fell  at  once,  and  a  Semper- Augustus 
could  be  had  for  50  florins  ;  yet  the  profits  of  raising  rare 
bulbs  were  considerable  ;  and,  even  at  present,  we  find  25 
to  150  florins  the  price  of  a  single  rare  Tulip  in  the  cata- 
logues of  the  Harlem  florists.  Until  the  time  of  the 
French  Revolution,  the  florists  of  Harlem  obtained  their 
bulbs  principally  from  Lisle,  and  other  towns  in  Flanders, 
where  the  clergy  were  engaged  in  raising  them." 

The  mania  was  not  confined  to  Holland  altogether,  for 
the  English  found  the  business  so  profitable  as  not  to  per- 
mit the  Dutch  to  engross  the  whole ;  the  English  florists, 
by  crossing  and  re-crossing  their  flowers,  were  enabled  to 
eclipse  their  neighbors  with  their  beauty  and  magnificence, 
thus  causing  a  decline  in  price  in  new  varieties. 

The  Tulip  is  still  dear,  that  is,  choice  varieties  ;  a  mode- 
rate variety  could  not  be  purchased  for  less  than  three  hun- 
dred dollars,  when  twenty  years  back  the  same  collection 
would  cost  four  times  that  amount.  This  is  not  to  be  won- 
dered at,  when  we  take  into  view  the  time  and  uncertainty 
of  raising  good  flowers.  Those  cultivated  in  this  country, 
generally,  are  no  criterion  to  judge  of  the  merit  of  the  fine 
kinds ;  those  brought  from  Holland  being  nothing  but  the 
rubbish  of  that  market,  the  good  kinds  being  prized  too 
much  in  Europe  to  find  a  ready  sale  here.  In  1629  there 
does  not  appear  to  have  been  over  140  with  names;  in 
1792  the  number  had  increased  to  665  ;  and  in  1820  I  saw 
a  catalogue,  published  by  one  Mason,  containing  900. 
There  is  one  called  Fanny  Kemble,  raised  from  seed  since 
that  publication,  that  has  been  sold  at  an  administrator's 
sale  for  about  $500  ;  there  being  but  one  offset  propagated 
at  that  time,  it  will  be  many  years  before  that  variety  will 


TULIP.  267 

be  down  to  five  dollars  ;  consequently  it  will  not  soon  find 
its  way  into  this  country. 

The  Dutch  were  the  first  to  classify  their  bulbs,  which 
was  done  in  the  following  order :  Primo  Bouquet,  white 
and  brown  stripes ;  Bouquet  Bagnettes,  not  so  tall  as 
the  former,  but  the  cups  are  as  well  formed,  with  white 
ground  and  brown  stripes ;  Incomparable  Verports,  the 
cups  cherry  and  rose,  on  a  white  ground ;  Bybloemens, 
nearly  white  ground,  with  stripes  of  various  colors; 
Bizarres,  the  ground  yellow,  with  irregular  stripes  01 
different  colors.  The  English  florists  class  theirs  in 
four  varieties,  something  after  the  Dutch  manner.  All 
the  classifications  are  arbitrary  and  perplexing  to  the 
amateur,  and  it  would  be  superfluous  to  insert  them. — 
There  is  another  circumstance  attached  to  these  flowers, 
still  more  perplexing,  and  that  is,  the  ta*te  required  to 
judge  of  what  is  termed  a  good  Tulip,  being  artifi-cial, 
requiring  time  and  familiarity  with  them  to  acquire 
what  is  termed  a  good  judgment  to  speak  of  their  merit 
or  demerit.  When  this  circumstance  is  taken  into  view, 
we  need  not  wonder  that  a  stranger  is  so  much  attract- 
ed at  first  sight  with  the  common  red  and  yellow  striped 
varieties. 

The  Tulip  is  raised  from  seed,  and  increased  by  offsets  ; 
by  seed  new  varieties  are  obtained,  but  the  process  is  slow 
and  uncertain.  To  raise  from  seed,  will  take  seven  years 
to  bring  them  to  flower,  and  probably  as  many  more  io 
break  their  colors,  and  then  you  may  not  produce  one  as 
good  as  that  you  saved  the  seed  from.  To  propagate  by 
offsets  is  the  only  way  of  increasing  the  same  kind  ;  they 
will  multiply  fast.  Beds  for  Tulips  should  command  an 


268  A  GUIDE   TO  FLORICULTURE. 

airy  situation  ;  the  soil  a  sandy  loam,  four  feet  wide,  and 
in  length  according  to  the  number  of  bulbs.  In  setting 
out  Tulips  dibble  them  in  five  inches  deep,  planting  seven 
bulbs  across  the  bed  ;  the  distance  the  other  way  should  be 
nine  inches  apart,  that  is  from  row  to  row.  In  Europe 
much  pains  is  taken  in  preparing  the  beds,  and  placing 
sand  under  and  around  the  bulbs ;  there  is  no  necessity  for 
anything  of  the  kind  in  this  country,  as  the  soil  generally 
contains  sand  enough  in  it.  Tulips  should  be  planted 
from  October  to  December ;  as  a  general  rule,  it  will  be 
found  that  the  middle  of  November  is  preferable  ;  for  after 
the  latter  time,  the  weather  is  uncertain  ;  about  Christmas 
place  a  layer  of  old  manure  on  the  bed  about  half  an  inch 
thick.  This  will  protect  them  from  heavy  rain  and  frost ; 
but  it  must  not  be  removed  before  the  beginning  of  March, 
and  not  then  unless  the  weather  is  mild.  In  the  spring 
keep  your  beds  free  of  weeds,  and  if  you  find  the  ground 
"binding,  loosen  it,  and  your  flowers  will  be  benefited  by 
the  operation.  During  the  blooming  season  if  protected 
by  an  awning  from  the  sun  and  rain,  the  flowers  will  last 
much  longer,  and  their  colors  be  more  brilliant.  The 
English  florists  generally  plant  what  is  termed  a  reserve 
bed,  the  flowers  of  which  are  generally  for  bouquets,  and 
not  held  in  great  estimation,  for  the  florist  will  never  cut  a 
first  rate  Tulip,  as  the  bulbs  are  then  apt  to  canker  the 
next  season  and  die.  When  Tulips  are  cut  for  exhibition 
it  is  seldom  the  flower  is  cut  more  than  one  inch  from  the 
cup,  as  then  their  liability  to  canker  is  not  so  great. 

The  Tulip  does  not  require  so  rich  a  soil  as  the  Hya- 
cinth, as  their  colors  will  run,  and  may  take  a  long  time 
to  restore  them.  Six  weeks  after  blooming  the  bulbs  will 


TULIP.  269 

be  in  a  fit  state  to  take  up,  which  must  be  done  on  a  clear 
day,  and  the  ground  dry  if  possible.  Place  them  in  a  room 
to  dry,  where  there  is  a  free  circulation  of  air,  for  three  or 
four  weeks,  then  place  each  variety  in  a  bag  and  mark 
it,  and  place  the  bags  in  a  box  or  drawer  until  the  time  of 
planting.  It  is  advisable  to  take  bulbs  up  every  season, 
and  separate  the  offsets,  which  should  be  planted  by  them- 
selves, as  many  will  not  flower  the  first  season ;  so  that 
offsets  may  remain  in  the  ground  two  years  without  re- 
moving. There  are  some  double  varieties  of  Tulips,  well 
calculated  for  flowering  in  pots,  and  these  should  be  placed 
in  pots  in  September,  if  wanted  to  flower  early,  and  the 
pots  sunk  in  the  ground ;  in  December  lift  them,  wash  the 
pots  clean,  and  place  them  near  the  glass,  the  same  as 
Hyacinths.  Neither  the  Double  or  Sweet  Scented  are  con- 
sidered choice  flowers,  though  there  is  novelty  in  their 
appearance. 


TASSEL    FLOWER. 

(CACALIA   COCCINEA.) 

This  is  a  pretty  and  graceful  annual,  of  a  bright  scarlet 
tassel-like  flower,  growing  about  eighteen  inches  high.  It 
flowers  from  June  to  August,  and  is  a  native  of  New  Hol- 
land. It  will  grow  in  any  common  garden  soil.  The 
seeds  should  be  sown  early  in  the  spring,  and  be  trans- 


270  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

planted  into  the  borders  in  May,  where  its  delicacy  will  do 
justice  to  that  department 


VELVET   COCKSCOMB. 

(CELOSEA   CRISTATA.) 

* 

This  is  one  of  our  greatest  ornamental  "border  plants, 
and  is  half  hardy,  flowering  from  June  to  September.  If 
wanted  to  flower  early  the  seed  should  be  sown  in  a  hot- 
bed, and  be  transplanted  after  the  danger  of  frost  is  over. 
It  is  a  native  of  Asia,  and  to  be  grown  well  must  have  a 
rich  soil.  The  flowers,  if  cut  off  before  the  frost  touches 
them,  will  retain  their  beauty  nearly  the  whole  winter. 
There  is  a  great  variety  of  the  Cockscomb,  and  of  colors ; 
the  whole  family  is  ornamental. 


VARIEGATED   EUPHORBIA. 

(EUPHORBIA  VARIEGATA.) 

An  annual,  very  showy  in  a  large  garden,  where  it  is 
cultivated  for  the  magnificent  appearance  of  the  leaf,  which 
is  a  beautiful  green  with  a  silver  stripe  or  edge.  It  is  a 
native  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  when  placed  in  a 


VARIEGATED  EUPHORBIA.  271 

bouquet  appears  to  great  advantage.  Although  showy  it 
ought  to  be  excluded  from  all  gardens  where  children  have 
free  access,  for  such  is  the  deleterious  effects  of  the  leaf,  if 
allowed  to  come  in  contact  with  the  lips,  it  will  cause  the 
part  to  blister ;  the  irritation  may  lead  to  other,  and  proba- 
bly worse,  consequences.  There  is  a  variety  of  Euphorbia 
mixed  with  some  Cactuses,  but  easily  distinguished,  and  the 
whole  tribe  is  worthless. 


VERBENA. 

(MELINDRE.) 

«*  Some  clothe  the  soil  that  feeds  them,  far  diffused, 
And  lonely,  creeping,  modest,  and  yet  fair." 

This  is  decidedly  one  of  the  best  exotics  in  cultivation. 
It  was  first  imported  as  far  back  as  1640,  but  does  not  ap- 
pear to  have  created  any  sensation  among  florists  until 
within  the  last  thirty  years,  when  many  beautiful  species 
were  introduced  into  Europe.  The  flowers  are  formed  ag- 
gregate ;  the  leaves  jagged;  stem  branching.  The  Ver- 
bena will  flower  from  March  until  November. 

It  is  a  native  of  Buenos  Ayres,  and  is  there  called 
Melindre,  but  Melindre  officinalis  is  a  native  of  England, 
a  plant  possessing  no  merit.  Those  of  late  introduction 
are  new,  and  are  becoming  plentiful ;  possessing  such  re- 
markable beauty,  they  will  supplant  many  flowers  now 
considered  indispensable.  From  the  nature  of  the  plant 


272  A  GUIDE  TO   FLORICULTURE. 

there  appears  no  difficulty  in  its  cultivation,  like  the  Petu- 
nia ;  and  it  is  equally  or  nearly  as  ornamental  and  desira- 
ble, in  the  parlor,  as  in  any  well  regulated  garden ;  indeed, 
the  latter  is  not  complete  without  both,  and  both  are  suita- 
ble for  rock  work.  It  is  increased  by  seed,  or  by  cuttings 
taken  any  time  between  March  and  September. 

To  raise  them  by  seed  they  should  be  sown  in  a  light 
rich  soil,  in  March,  and  be  kept  moderately  moist  When 
large  enough,  transplant  into  the  open  ground,  which  will 
be  some  time  in  May.  To  increase  by  layers  the  best 
way  will  be  to  sink  a  pot,  filled  with  rich  soil,  near  the 
plant,  and  peg  the  joint  in  the  centre,  and,  when  rooted, 
detach  it  from  the  parent ;  nothing  more  is  required  than 
to  treat  it  like  other  plants.  The  Verbena  likes  a 
good  drainage,  and  but  little  water  in  the  winter.  In 
the  spring,  as  the  plants  begin  to  grow,  water  them 
moderately.  You  will  find,  in  May,  where  your  plants 
grew  in  the  open  ground,  that  if  you  had  different  varieties 
planted,  many  new  varieties  will  come  up,  as  the  Verbena 
will  easily  cross.  A  bed  of  Verbena,  when  well  arranged 
in  regard  to  color,  makes  a  delightful  appearance  beyond 
conception. 


WINGED   AMMOBIUM. 

(AMMOBIUM  ALATUM.) 

There  is  something  pleasing  in  this  annual,  being  rather 
showy  and  singular  in  its  appearance,  flowering  from  June 


WINGED    AMMOBIUM.  273 

to  August,  and  throwing  up  a  stem  two  feet  high  and 
branching ;  the  flowers  solitary  at  the  extreme.  They  bear 
some  resemblance  to  the  Eternal  Flower,  yellow,  with  a 
single  whorl  of  white  petals  round  the  edge,  reflexed. 
The  stem  is  concave,  the  corners  or  edge  thin,  hence  arose 
the  name,  Winged.  The  leaf  is  a  dingy  yellow  or  light 
green,  clustered  near  the  ground.  It  is  half  hardy,  and  will 
grow  in  any  common  garden  soil.  It  generally  sows  its 
own  seed,  which  comes  up  early  in  the  spring,  and  can  be 
transplanted  to  where  it  is  wanted  to  flower. 


WHITE   LILY. 

(LILIUM  CANDIDUM.) 

"  Yet  in  that  bulb,  those  sapless  scales, 

The  lily  wraps  her  silent  vest, 
Till  vernal  suns  and  vernal  gales, 
Shall  kiss  once  more  her  fragrant  breast." 

This  is  a  bulbous  rooted  perennial,  a  native  of  Syria  and 
Asia  Minor,  and  was  supposed  to  have  been  brought  to 
Europe  by  the  Crusaders,  sometime  during  the  "  Holy 
War."  It  is  one  of  the  oldest  exotics  in  cultivation,  pos- 
sessing extraordinary  beauty,  embellishing  the  flower 
garden  with  white  flowers  of  the  sweetest  odor  of  all  the 
floral  tribe.  The  leaves  are  lanceolate,  scattered,  and  nar- 
rowed at  the  base ;  the  corolla  companulate  and  smooth 
inside ;  the  stem  about  five  feet  high,  bearing  from  six  to 


274  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

twelve  gorgeous  flowers  of  virgin  white,  in  May  and  June. 
The  bulb  is  composed  of  imbricated  scales  without  odor, 
and  of  a  disagreeable  flavor.  It  contains  a  small  portion 
of  an  acrid  principle,  and  much  mucilage,  which  is 
greatly  diminished  by  boiling.  It  has  been  used  for  the 
dropsy.  The  odor  of  the  flowers  is  imparted  to  oil  or 
bear's  grease,  and  is  used  by  perfumers  ;  mixed  with  lard 
it  is  used  as  a  liniment,  as  a  soothing  application  for  ex* 
ternal  inflammation.  It  appears  to  have  sprung  up  in  the 
heathen  mythology,  and  was  called  Juno's  Rose.  It  was 
known  and  cultivated  in  the  Jewish  nation. 

*•  So  mixed  the  Rose  and  Lily's  white, 
That  nature  seemed  uncertain  quite, 
To  deck  her  cheek,  what  flower  she  chose, 
The  Lily  white,  or  blushing  Rose, 

The  White  Lily  will  grow  in  any  soil,  but  it  prefers  one 
rather  light  than  binding.  It  is  increased  by  offsets.  The 
bulbs  should  be  taken  up  in  July,  after  the  leaves  and  stem 
die  down,  and  should  not  be  kept  out  of  the  ground  over  six 
weeks.  Separate  the  offsets,  and  then  plant  them  accord- 
ing to  fancy,  round  the  garden  ;  if  in  rows,  about  eighteen 
inches  apart.  This  bulbous  root  is  so  hardy  as  to  require 
no  protection  in  the  winter. 


WALLFLOWER.  275 

WALLFLOWER. 

(CHEIRANTHUS   CHEIRI.) 

44  It  sheds  a  halo  of  repose 

Around  the  wrecks  of  Time; 
To  beauty  give  the  flaunting  Rose, 
The  Wallflower  is  sublime." 

This  is  truly  a  delightful  ornamental  evergreen  under 
shrub,  growing  about  two  feet  high.  It  is  found  growing 
in  perfection  on  old  walls  and  castles  in  England,  bearing 
yellow  flowers  from  April  to  July.  It  is  delightfully  fragrant, 
beyond  all  the  perfumes  of  Persia.  The  leaves  are  lanceo- 
late, entire,  hairy,  two  parted ;  pods  linear ;  stigmas  with 
incurved  lobes.  The  Wallflower  delights  in  old  walls, 
where  it  grows  to  better  perfection  than  the  florist  can  make 
it  by  cultivation.  Whoever  has  visited  England,  in  the 
spring,  must  be  familiar  with  their  attractions,  and  found  them 
irresistible,  when  passing  the  ruins  of  an  old  castle,  or  walls, 

"  For  the  obedient  zephyrs  bear 

Her  light  seeds  round  'yond  turret's  mould, 
And,  undisputed  by  the  tempest  there, 
They  rise  in  vegetable  gold." 

yes!  after  withstanding  the  cold  blasts  of  winter,  this 
charming  flower  appears,  making  the  spring  more  delight- 
ful than  we  could  imagine  it  before.  There  are  several 
varieties  of  the  Wallflower,  and  all  attractive ;  but  the  best 
in  cultivation  is  a  semi-double,  from  Germany,  so  fragrant 
as  to  ravish  the  senses  with  its  fragrance ;  it  has  a  more 


276  A  GUIDE  TO  FLORICULTURE. 

powerful  aroma  than  the  double,  and  also  seeds  freely, 
enabling  us  to  increase  by  that  means  as  well  as  by  slips. 

To  increase  by  seeds  it  will  be  necessary  to  sow  them  in 
April,  in  a  sandy  loam,  and  when  six  leaves  are  formed 
transplant  them  into  four  inch  pots,  which  will  be  large 
enough  to  winter  them  in  ;  in  the  beginning  of  February 
shift  them  into  one  a  size  larger. 

To  propagate  from  slips  it  will  be  necessary  to  take 
them  off  in  the  months  of  May  and  June,  after  flowering. 
This  is  decidedly  the  best  way,  when  you  have  a  plant 
whose  attractive  beauties  surpass  others. 

The  slips  should  be  planted  round  the  pot,  for  if  they 
come  in  contact  with  the  sides,  the  plants  will  root  more 
readily.  Due  moisture  is  absolutely  necessary  to  their 
striking  root.  In  September  pot  them  off,  and  treat  them 
the  same  as  seedlings. 

The  Wallflower  will  not  stand  the  severity  of  the  winter 
in  this  country ;  every  precaution  must,  therefore,  be  used 
for  their  protection ;  if  not  kept  near  the  glass  (in  a  pit) 
the  plant  will  be  drawn  up,  and  its  symmetry  destroyed. 
It  may  be  improved  by  mixing  old  lime  and  rubbish  with 
loam.  This  will  have  a  tendency  to  harden  the  wood,  and 
make  the  flowers  more  fragrant,  than  if  planted  in  a  rich 
soil.  It  is  well  known  that  sowing  the  seed  of  Mignonette 
in  rich  soil  has  a  great  tendency  to  destroy  its  fragrance  ; 
and  1  think  the  same  theory  will  apply  to  most  fragrant 
flowers. 


WASH   TO   DESTROY   INSECTS.  277 


WASH  TO  DESTROY  INSECTS. 

Most  plants,  subject  to  parlor  culture,  are  liable  at  differ- 
ent seasons  to  the  attacks  of  insects,  particularly  the  green 
fly  on  Roses,  Geraniums,  Calceolarias,  and  many  other 
plants.  When  you  find  your  plants  infested  with  these 
troublesome  insects,  make  a  wash  with  two  pounds  whale 
oil  soap  to  sixteen  gallons  of  water ;  mix  them  at  night, 
and  the  next  day,  after  stirring  them  well,  will  be  fit 
to  use,  and  may  be  syringed  over  the  plants,  or  the 
branches  may  be  dipped  into  the  suds,  and  the  insects  will 
disappear  the  next  day. 

This  is  a  good  wash  for  plants  when  infested  with  the 
scale  bug  (which  adheres  to  the  stem),  by  taking  a  piece 
of  sponge  and  cleansing  the  stems  of  your  plants.  Olean- 
ders, when  troubled  with  insects,  should  be  treated  in  the 
same  manner.  The  suds  will  also  be  a  stimulus  to  the 
growth  of  the  plants ;  there  is,  therefore,  no  danger  to  be 
apprehended  from  its  penetrating  the  soil  in  the  pots.  It 
should  be  observed,  if  you  mix  a  greater  portion  of  soap 
than  mentioned  above,  the  leaves  will  drop  off  the  plant, 
but  they  will  soon  put  out  again.  To  kill  caterpillars  the 
decoction  should  be  made  stronger  ;  it  will  be  found  to  de- 
stroy them  effectually,  when  syringed  on  them,  but  it  will 
be  necessary  to  break  their  web  previous  to  the  operation. 


278  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 


SELECTION   AND    MANAGEMENT    OF 
PARLOR   PLANTS. 

In  the  culture  of  flowers  in  the  parlor  there  is  a  growing 
taste,  which  should  be  encouraged.  It  was  not  my  inten- 
tion to  offer  any  inducements  on  the  subject,  as  my  object 
was  to  give  as  much  information  as  possible.  I  now  deem 
it  best  to  point  out  the  plants  best  suited  for  that  purpose. 
The  aptness  so  characteristic  in  females  to  propagate  flowers, 
with  little  instruction,  is  manifest  to  any  person  perambulat- 
ing the  city  and  its  suburbs.  Still  there  are  many  flowers 
now  cultivated  that  may  be  considered  worthless  by  many, 
for  it  will  be  found  that  a  plant  admired  and  propagated  by 
one  person  may  not  be  fancied  by  another.  All  flowers 
possess  some  attraction,  though  a  discriminating  taste  will 
differ  in  persons ;  this  is  all  proper.  Many  are  cultivated 
from  the  facility  of  obtaining  those  most  accessible,  but 
the  choicer  exotics  are  more  difficult  to  manage  than 
others.  Those  will  be  left  out  of  the  selection  named 
on  page  282,  where  I  have  retained  those  only  that  can 
be  easily  managed.  The  choice  of  plants  in  a  city  is 
easily  obtained ;  but  those  difficult  to  manage  will  never 
realize  the  expectation  of  the  amateur  for  the  outlay  he 
may  be  induced  to  make ;  such  are  also  excluded.  Enough 
can  be  had  to  satisfy  the  desire  of  affording  a  gorgeous  dis- 
play in  their  season. 

The  management  of  well  selected  plants  for  the  parlor  is 
more  difficult  at  one  time  than  at  another,  for  a  variety 
may  embrace  so  extensive  an  assortment  that  their  treat- 


SELECTION   AND    MANAGEMENT  OF   PARLOPw    PLANTS.      279 

ment  will  materially  differ.  The  various  genera  of  plants 
require  great  care  in  the  winter  season  from  the  difference 
of  heat  in  the  room  through  the  day  and  night.  In  the 
day  plants  should  receive  a  due  portion  of  light  and  air. 
To  make  them  thrive  in  a  room  as  healthful  as  if  kept  in 
the  green-house,  light,  air,  and  judicious  watering,  are 
necessary. 

Plants  in  a  room  should  be  kept  as  near  the  glass  as 
possible  in  the  winter,  and  the  pots  kept  clear  of  dead 
leaves,  and  be  turned  round  once  a  week,  at  least,  to  pre- 
serve uniformity  in  appearance,  or  the  plants  will  turn  to 
the  light,  growing  one-sided  and  unsightly  in  their  appear- 
ance. Then,  again,  it  will  be  important  in  mild  weather 
to  have  the  windows  raised  between  10  o'clock  in  the  morn- 
ing and  3  in  the  afternoon,  and  plants  should  have  the  bene- 
fit of  the  morning  sun  if  possible.  If  the  plants  by  acci- 
dent get  frosted,  the  sun  should  be  excluded  from  them 
until  it  is  entirely  out  of  the  plant.  The  frost  will  not 
injure  some  plants,  while  others  would  be  entirely 
destroyed.  In  a  room,  where  plants  are  kept  in  the 
winter,  the  air  should  never  be  below  freezing  point, 
(32°  Fahrenheit's  thermometer),  and  if  possible  not  over 
45°.  Uniformity  in  this  particular  is  best,  but  is  seldom 
attained  in  sitting  rooms ;  the  difference  being  greater 
through  the  day  than  the  night,  which  of  itself  is  enough 
to  injure  their  appearance. 

The  watering  of  plants  is  seldom  attended  to  properly. 
This  is  one  of  the  most  essential  points  in  Floriculture. 
From  November  to  March  plants  should  be  watered  in  the 
morning  about  10  o'clock,  and  the  water  should  be  of  a 


280  A   GUIDE  TO   FLORICULTURE. 

corresponding  warmth  with  the  room  ;  this  can  be  easily 
effected  by  keeping  the  water  pot  filled,  and  letting  it  re- 
main twenty-four  hours  under  the  stand,  before  being  used, 
or  by  using  a  small  quantity  of  warm  water  to  take  the 
chill  off  To  use  water  too  freely,  is  as  bad  as  none  at  all ; 
for  the  roots  of  plants  that  elongate  from  the  main  body 
are  so  formed  as  to  suck  up  water  like  a  sponge ;  and  in 
cold  weather  the  plant  is  unable  to  exercise  its  functions  to 
elaborate  a  great  quantity  at  the  leaves ;  it  will  when  in 
a  vigorous  state.  For  this  reason,  the  soil  becomes  sodded 
and  sours ;  the  roots  being  overcharged  the  plants  will 
sicken  and  die.  There  are  some  exceptions  to  this  rule ; 
for  the  Camellia  Japonica  requires  a  good  supply  in  the 
winter,  to  make  their  buds  swell  and  expand  ;  so  does  the 
Chrysanthemum,  in  the  early  part  of  the  winter.  The 
practice  of  placing  plants  out  of  doors  in  the  winter,  when 
it  rains,  is  a  bad  practice.  To  place  the  Cacti  family  out, 
or  give  them  much  water  in  the  winter,  is  sure  destruction. 
The  amateur  generally  succeeds  with  this  class  of  plants, 
and  chiefly  from  neglect  to  water  them,  not  by  good  man- 
agement in  other  respects.  A  little  culture  of  the  Cacti 
will  generally  correct  all  the  evils  attendant  on  them.  No 
plant  in  cultivation  requires  more  than  that  the  soil  be 
kept  a  little  moist,  unless  plants  are  in  a  growing  state. 
It  will  be  plainly  seen  that  plants,  overwatered,  put  on  a 
sickly  hue,  which  is  often  mistaken  by  the  novice  for  the 
want  of  it,  and  more  is  applied,  which  entirely  destroys 
them.  To  obviate  the  evil  in  some  measure,  in  potting 
plants  in  the  spring  or  fall,  give  them  a  good  drainage ; 
this  is  a  term  used  among  gardeners,  and  may  not  be  fully 
understood  by  others.  It  is  simply  this  :  when  you  pot  a 


SELECTION   AND   MANAGEMENT  OP   PARLOR    PLANTS.     281 

plant,  say  one  of  five  inches,  place  one  inch  of  small  pieces 
of  brick  or  broken  crocks  at  the  bottom ;  other  sizes  in 
proportion,  whether  larger  or  smaller.  And  if  the  plants 
be  kept  in  a  saucer  to  prevent  the  surplus  water  from 
reaching  the  carpet,  never  let  the  water  remain  in  it  (ex- 
cept for  swamp  plants,  Calla  Ethiopica  and  the  like),  for 
when  the  pots  have  a  good  drainage,  the  water  will  pass 
freely  through  the  soil  into  the  saucer,  washing  the  execre- 
mentitious  substance  from  the  plants  into  the  saucer.  Plants 
in  the  parlor  will  require  less  water  in  December  and  Jan- 
uary than  at  any  other  time,  for  during  these  months  the 
major  part  of  Flora's  gems  are  in  a  state  of  rest.  In  the 
month  of  February  nature  begins  to  put  forth  the  signs  of 
coming  spring ;  our  ideas  are  on  the  alert,  and  their  antici- 
pations are  like  the  buds  of  the  late  dormant  plants,  shoot- 
ing luxuriantly  at  the  approach  of  returning  spring  ;  then 
encouragement  will  be  necessary.  This  must  be  attended 
to  by  giving  your  plants  water  moderately  at  first,  to  be 
increased  as  warm  weather  advances.  Most  plants  require 
top  dressing  or  potting.  March  is  a  month  well  calculated 
for  the  operation,  while  some  are  better  for  repotting  in 
October.  These  months  are  suited  for  the  generality 
of  plants  ;  others  through  the  summer.  Experience  will 
show  their  time. 

There  are  many  annuals  and  biennials  that  make  very 
agreeable  parlor  companions  in  the  fall  and  spring,  when 
in  flower,  for  not  all  perennials  are  suitable  for  that  pur- 
pose ;  and  there  are  many  bulbous  rooted  plants  worthy 
the  attention  of  the  amateur,  such  as  Hyacinths,  Tulips, 
Crocuses,  Jonquils,  Tuberoses,  Polyanthus  Narcissus,  Snow 
Drops  (both  spring  and  autumn).  Ixias,  Amaryllis,  Irises 

24 


282  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

(Persian),  Gladiolus,  and  many  others.  Bulbs  will  do 
well  in  a  room,  and  require  but  little  care.  The  Amaryllis 
tribe,  the  Tuberose,  and  the  Gladiolus  are  rather  tender, 
and  should  be  kept  from  the  frost 

The  following  list  of  perennials  may  be  considered  good 
for  parlor  culture :  — 

Azalia,  Crape  Myrtle, 

Chrysanthemum,  Coffee  Tree, 

Clematis,  Camellia, 

Fuchsia,  *Geranium  [free  bloomer], 

*  Heliotrope,  Hydrangea, 

Jasmine,  Lavender, 

Laurestinus,  Lemon  Tree, 

*Lemon  Scented  Verbena,      *Passion  Flower, 
Oleander,  Orange  Tree, 

Pomegranate,  Rhododendron, 

Roses  [in  pots],  Myrtle, 

Tea  Tree,  Wallflower, 

*Wax  Plant. 

Those  marked  with  the  star  (*)  are  tender,  and  must  be 
guarded  against  frost.  The  hybrid  Geraniums  are  very 
difficult  to  keep;  it  will  therefore  be  necessary  not  to 
rebuy  such  as  you  find  difficult  to  keep. 

Soft  wooded  and  fibrous  rooted  Biennials  and  Perennials  : 
*Agapanthus,  Auricula, 

Carnation,  .  Begonia, 

*Cacti,  *Daisy, 

China  Pink,  *Forget-me-not, 

•Cineraria,  *Gloxinia, 

Campanula  persicifolia,  Japan  Lily, 

Canterbury  Bell,  *Lychnis  Brungeana, 


SELECTION   AND   MANAGEMENT   OF   TAIILOR  PLANTS.      283 


*China  Primrose, 
*Calla  Ethiopica, 
*Oxalis, 

Polyanthus, 

Picotees, 

Primrose, 

Ragged  Robin, 


Martagon  Lily, 
*  Nasturtium, 
Petunia, 
Pimpernel, 
Pink, 
Pansy, 
Verbena. 


(*)  Will  not  stand  much  frost,  and  should  be  protected. 

Annuals  to  be  sown  in  September,  and  brought  into  the 

house  to  flower  during  the  winter,  to  accomplish  which 

will  require  a  warm  situation. 

Brachycome  iberidifolia, 

Campanula, 

Dew  Plant, 

Ice  Plant, 

Jacobea, 

Nemophila, 

Portulaca, 

Sensitive  Plant. 


Maurandia  Barclayana, 

Mignonette, 

Mimulus, 

Musk  Plant, 

Martynia  fragrans, 

Phlox  Drummondii, 

Schizanthus, 


GROWING  PLANTS  PROM  THE  LEAF. 

This  system  of  late  appears  to  meet  with  much,  approval 
notwithstanding  its  tardy  way  of  increasing  the  varieties  of 
pot  plants.  When  a  seedling  plant  does  really  possess  su- 
perior merit,  and  the  increase  desirable  whether  for  sale  or 
novelty  it  is  well  enough.  There  is  certainly  a  kind  of  aris- 
tocratic feeling  in  the  idea  of  having  a  plant  raised  from  the 


284  A  GUIDE   TO  FLORICULTURE. 

simple  leaf,  which  in  former  days  would  appear  incredible. 
The  Gloxinia  has  long  been  propagated  by  that  medium, 
but  the  organization  of  the  midrib  of  the  leaf  is  peculiar  to 
its  species,  materially  different  from  other  plants,  and  if  the 
leaves  lie  near  the  soil,  bulbs  will  form  on  the  under  side, 
not  so  with  other  plants.  To  propagate  by  the  leaf,  it  is 
immaterial  whether  Rose  Pelargonium,  or  other  plants, 
it  is  necessary  to  take  the  footstalk  of  the  leaf  close  to  the 
joint  of  the  plant,  for  the  all  important  material  to  form 
roots  belongs  to  the  joint,  being  more  succulent  than  other 
parts,  consequently  the  formation  of  those  parts  are  more 
prone  to  form  root  fibres.  The  soil  should  be,  if  possible, 
leaf  mould  and  sand,  equal  parts.  The  leaf  stock  after 
inserted  and  watered  should  be  covered  with  a  bell-glass, 
the  same  as  cuttings,  and  as  the  roots  elongates  down,  so 
will  the  embryo  of  the  new  plant  appear  above  the  soil, 
assimilating  in  appearance  to  seedlings,  and  will  take  about 
the  same  time  to  flower.  It  will  be  necessary  to  admit  air 
as  the  plants  increase  in  size.  These  phenomenas  of  nature 
and  art  generally  create  a  pleasing  effect  on  the  mind  of  the 
young  florist,  as  novelty  is  a  solace  always  pleasing  to  the 
amateur,  especially  when  cultivating  on  a  new  theory. 


FLORICULTURAL  CALENDAR.  286 


THE    FLOWER    GARDEN, 


OR 


FIORICULTURAL  CALANDAR  FOR  THE  YEAR. 


JANUARY. 

At  this  dreary  time  of  the  year  there  ought  not  to  be 
much  to  do ;  all  necessary  precaution  should  have  been 
taken  for  the  protection  of  outstanding  plants  in  the  pre- 
vious months ;  still,  if  not  attended  to  as  directed,  let  it  be 
done  without  delay,  or  you  may  lose  some  valuable  plants. 
Should  the  weather  be  mild  and  the  ground  not  frozen,  and 
you  have  any  bulbous  roots  out  of  the  ground,  plant  them 
without  delay,  to  save  them,  but  good  flowers  must  not  be 
expected  from  them.  Still  continue  to  manure  such  beds 
as  need  it,  and  turn  them  over  on  all  favorable  occasions. 
It  will  have  a  tendency  to  destroy  cut  worms.  This  being 
a  leisure  time,  prepare  sticks  for  carnations,  and  other 
flowers  that  will  need  support  in  the  summer,  and  paint 
them  green  or  slate  color.  You  will  find  some  advantage 
in  attending  to  this  if  only  for  a  pastime. 

THE   PARLOR. 

Great  caution  will  be  required  in  watering  plants 
during  this  month ;  give  water  to  none  but  those  in  a 


286  A   GUIDE  TO   FLORICULTURE. 

growing  state ;  and  then  in  small  quantities.  It  is  better 
to  give  little  and  often,  than  lose  your  plants  by  flooding 
them ;  and  be  particular  when  you  do  water  them,  that  the 
chill  is  off;  or  you  will  soon  perceive  the  evil  tendency 
of  such  neglect.  The  Camellia  is  a  plant  that  thrives 
best  when  its  leaves  are  kept  clean,  and  at  this  season  it 
will  require  a  good  supply  of  water,  or  their  flower  buds 
will  not  swell  and  expand ;  in  washing  their  leaves  never 
lot  the  water  touch  the  flower  petals,  or  you  will  destroy 
their  beauty.  The  room  where  you  keep  those  beautiful 
flowering  plants  should  be  moderately  heated ;  and  give 
them  plenty  of  air  whenever  you  can  do  it  with  safety. 
The  Camellia  is  by  no  means  tender,  but  will  bear  con- 
siderable frost,  without  injuring  the  plant ;  but  it  is  best 
kept  in  a  room  never  below  the  freezing  point ;  when  once 
understood,  it  is  one  of  the  easiest  plants  to  manage  we  have 
in  parlor  culture. 

Chinese  Primroses  should  be  shifted  into  a  pot  one  size 
larger  the  last  of  this  month,  and  be  abundantly  supplied 
with  water ;  their  flowers  will  then  expand  to  perfection. 
Azalias  should  be  kept  near  the  window,  to  induce  them 
to  grow ;  water  them  sparingly  at  first.  Hyacinths,  and 
all  bulbs  in  glasses,  need  attention ;  guard  them  against 
frost,  and  change  the  water  often ;  those  in  pots  will  require 
plenty  of  water,  and  must  be  kept  in  the  window  to  receive 
the  warmth  of  the  sun,  and  be  removed  at  night.  The 
Cacti  are  now  in  a  state  of  rest,  and  must  be  kept  moder- 
ately dry.  Geraniums,  the  last  of  this  month,  will  need 
repotting,  and  should  be  watered  sparingly.  Keep  your 
pots  and  plants  clean,  and  free  of  dead  leaves,  to  preserve 
neatness  and  make  your  plants  healthy. 


FEBRUARY.  287 


FEBRUARY. 

Much  of  the  labor  of  this  month  will  depend  greatly  on 
the  weather ;  if  cold  or  wet  little  can  be  done,  with  the 
exception  of  transplanting  ornamental  trees  and  shrubs, 
such  as  Roses,  Syringas,  Persian,  and  other  Lilacs,  Paeo- 
neas,  Arbor  Vitses,  &c.  This  should  be  attended  to  so  soon 
as  the  frost  is  out  of  the  ground,  and  their  respiratory  organs 
begin  to  put  out.  In  transplanting  Roses  it  is  necessary  to  cut 
them  down  to  within  one  foot  of  the  ground,  as  in  remov- 
ing  them  many  of  the  spongioles  of  the  root  are  destroyed 
(an  unavoidable  occurrence) ;  deprived  of  this  essential  to 
maintain  the  whole  wood  after  removal,  they  lose  the  prin- 
ciple of  life,  and  in  most  cases,  by  not  attending  to  the  prun- 
ing, the  tree  lingers,  and  finally  dies.  When  pruned  as 
directed,  there  is  less  sap  to  be  supplied,  and  as  the  leaves 
and  root  depend  on  each  other  for  support,  there  is  enough 
left  to  equalize  each  other,  and  on  their  being  re-established 
the  growth  is  abundant  and  healthy. 

In  removing  evergreen  trees,  the  Arbor  Vitas,  for  instance, 
their  roots  do  not  diverge  far  from  the  main  body ;  being 
more  compact,  the  main  body  of  the  roots  can  be  removed 
without  causing  much  injury ;  but  if  disturbed  as  much  as 
deciduous  shrubs,  in  their  removal,  nothing  will  restore 
them  to  their  former  vigor  and  beauty.  This  is  one  cause 
of  so  much  failure  in  trees  purchased  in  the  markets, 
brought  from  the  mountainous  regions.  By  paying  a  trifle 
more,  better  trees  could  be  purchased  of  nurserymen,  with 
a  warranty. 


288  A  GUIDE   TO  FLORICULTURE. 

In  the  latter  part  of  this  month  commence  transplanting 
biennial  and  perennial  flowering  plants,  to  where  they  are 
intended  to  flower.  If  those  plants  have  been  kept  in  the 
house  through  the  winter,  it  will  be  necessary  to  have  large 
flower  pots  handy  to  cover  them  at  night,  until  hardened 
to  withstand  the  spring  frost.  In  the  last  of  this  month, 
should  the  weather  be  fine,  give  Carnations,  Picotees,  and 
Pinks  in  pots  a  gentle  watering.  Auriculas,  Polyanthuses^ 
and  Primulas,  should  be  top  dressed,  and  watered  occa- 
sionally, to  encourage  their  growth.  Seeds  of  choice  Pan- 
sies,  Auriculas,  Polyanthuses,  Mignonette,  Martynia  fra- 
grans,  and  other  parlor  plants,  may  be  sown  in  boxes  or 
flower  pots,  be  covered  with  glass,  and  placed  so  that  they 
will  receive  the  morning  sun.  Those  desirous  of  still  more 
early  flowers  should  prepare  a  hot  bed  of  stable  manure  to 
start  them  in ;  and  when  the  plants  are  large  enough  they 
should  be  potted  into  thumb  pots,  and  returned  to  the  hot 
bed,  until  the  roots  are  re-established.  Roses  not  trimmed 
last  fall  should  be  attended  to  without  delay.  Beds  may 
be  prepared  for  Ranunculuses  and  Anemones  as  soon  as  the 
ground  can  be  turned  up  without  adhering  to  the  spade. 

THE    PARLOR. 

Should  the  weather  be  warm  shift  the  following  plants 
into  a  pot,  one  size  larger  than  they  have  been  kept 
in  through  the  winter:  —  Wallflowers,  Martynia  fra- 
grans,  Geraniums,  Roses,  Verbenas,  Heliotropes,  Fuch- 
sias, Calceolarias,  Stock  Gillyflowers,  and  many  others  not 
named.  Chinese  Primroses  may  be  placed  in  a  saucer  the 
last  of  this  month,  during  their  flowering  season,  and  will 


FEBRUARY.  289 

do  well,  also,  the  Calla  Ethiopica,  and  be  watered  regular- 
ly. The  Camellia  should  be  watered  abundantly,  as  their 
flowers  will  now  be  expanding  in  all  their  beauty.  Achi- 
menes  of  all  kinds  should  be  potted,  and  be  placed  in  a  hot 
bed,  and  be  kept  moi'st.  Hyacinths,  in  glasses,  will  now 
begin  to  show  their  flower  buds  ;  when  the  scape  becomes 
tall  they  may  require  support,  which  should  be  done  with 
wire  fastened  to  the  glass.  Tulips,  and  other  bulbs  in  pots, 
must  be  watered  freely,  as  their  flowering  stems  advance. 

All  plants  in  pots  will  begin  to  grow ;  give  little  water 
and  plenty  of  air,  and  keep  them  clear  of  leaves.  In  giving 
your  plants  air  let  them  be  well  guarded  against  frost, 
Azalias  should  be  watered  more  freely  than  last  month, 
and  still  be  kept  near  the  glass ;  when  their  flowers  expand 
be  liberal  with  water,  or  the  flowers  will  soon  fade  and  fall 
off.  Gladiolus  floribundus  and  cardinalis,  also  Sprekelia 
Formosissima,  formerly  Amaryllis  formosissima,  may  be 
potted  to  flower  early :  be  careful  in  watering  them,  until 
you  perceive  them  growing.  By  the  last  of  this  month 
the  Cactus  tribe  will  require  a  little  encouragement. 


MARCH. 

With  this  month  commences  the  spring,  and  the  business 
of  this  department  will  accumulate  as  the  warm  weather 
approaches,  and  on  the  industry  of  the  amateur  will  depend 
their  appearance  for  the  coming  season.  Commence  re- 
moving the  protection  from  the  Tulip  and  Hyacinth  beds ; 
25 


290  A  GUIDE  TO  FLORICULTURE. 

this  should  not  be  done  too  suddenly,  as  we  have  generally 
some  cold  weather  in  this  month  ;  therefore  the  weather 
must  be  your  criterion  to  go  by.  The  protection  round 
your  tender  Roses  may  also  be  removed  by  degrees. 
Choice  seeds  may  be  sown  for  early  flowers ;  this  should 
be  effected  with  the  assistance  of  bottom  heat,  or  they  may 
be  sown  in  drills,  in  a  box,  each  variety  to  be  labelled  and 
covered  with  a  pane  of  glass*  There  are  two  advantages 
attending  the  seeds  sown  this  way ;  the  first  is,  the  glass 
will  cause  more  heat  than  if  sown  in  the  open  ground,  and 
the  next  is,  when  the  seeds  are  up  and  in  the  seed  leaf  (the 
time  most  likely  to  be  injured  by  the  frost),  the  glass  is 
some  protection,  and  if  very  severe  weather  ensues,  the  box 
can  be  removed  into  the  house.  Again,  if  the  seed  be 
sown  in  the  open  ground,  the  soil  at  this  season  should  not 
be  dug  more  than  half  spade  deep,  as  the  soil  is  too  cold 
and  would  rot  them.  Experience  will  teach  that  when 
seed  intended  to  be  sown  thus  early,  the  soil  should  be  stir- 
red only  with  a  rake  ;  much  benefit  will  result,  for  that 
only  which  has  received  the  influence  of  the  sun  will  be 
found  congenial  to  the  germination  of  seeds. 

Hardy  Roses  may  now  be  propagated  by  grafting  the 
more  choice  kind  on  the  roots  of  the  common  kinds.  Car- 
nations, Picotees,  and  Pinks,  should  not  be  removed  from 
their  winter  quarters  before  the  grass  on  the  commons  and 
fields  begins  to  grow,  for  the  sharp  cutting  winds  this  month 
are  dangerous  to  those  flowers.  When  you  perceive  the 
weather  settled,  about  the  last  of  the  month,  those  intended 
to  flower  in  pots  should  be  shifted  into  a  five  inch  pot,  and 
be  top  dressed ;  expose  them  to  gentle  showers  to  encourage 
their  growth. 


MARCH.  291 

Ornamental  trees  and  deciduous  shrubs  may  still  be 
removed,  the  sooner  the  better,  as  well  as  biennial  and 
perennial  flowering-  plants.  Borders  and  edges  may  now 
be  made  of  Privet,  Box,  and  of  the  Pheasant  Eyed  Pink, 
and  turf  laid.  Box  may  now  be  slipped  and  will  root 
readily,  which  should  be  planted  by  itself  the  first  season. 
Rake  your  beds,  destroy  dead  leaves,  and  clear  the  paths 
from  rubbish,  and  make  improvements  that  will  be  bene- 
ficial as  well  as  ornamental  in  the  flower  garden.  Unpack 
your  Dahlias,  and  give  them  air  to  prevent  their  rotting. 

THE    PARLOR. 

Plants  of  all  descriptions  should  be  repotted  without  de- 
lay, if  not  done  last  month.  This  month  is  one  of  the  best 
in  the  year  for  general  potting,  and  when  it  was  neglected 
last  fall  it  should  be  attended  to  now.  Roses,  when  re- 
potted, should  be  trimmed,  and,  if  necessary,  the  parts 
trimmed  off  may  be  converted  into  cuttings  to  increase  the 
stock.  Hyacinths  in  glasses  will  now  be  in  flower,  and 
should  be  kept  from  the  sun  to  preserve  their  beauty.  Ca- 
mellias will  now  be  in  their  flowering  season,  and  should 
be  abundantly  supplied  with  water ;  and  their  leaves  must 
be  kept  clean,  and  when  done  flowering  they  should  be 
repotted,  and  inarched,  if  a  stock  of  good  ones  is  desired. 
This  should  be  done  before  the  plants  make  their  young 
wood. 

It  will  be  necessary  to  keep  your  plants  out  of  reach  of 
cutting  winds,  so  prevalent  this  month,  also  from  the  frost, 
or  they  will  be  greatly  injured.  Mignonette,  Petunia,  Por- 
mlacca,  Nemophilla  insignis,  Verbena,  and  other  choice 


292  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

seeds  may  be  sown  in  boxes,  to  decorate  the  windows ; 
they  should  be  transplanted  into  five  inch  pots  when  of 
sufficient  size  for  that  purpose.  Orange  and  Lemon  Trees 
should  have  their  roots  examined  ;  if  found  to  be  mouldy 
that  part  should  be  cut  offj  and  then  repot  them  again. 
Geraniums  should  be  examined,  as  the  frost  or  damp  air 
will  affect  their  leaves  ;  such  as  you  find  injured  should  be 
taken  off;  give  them  a  top  dressing  to  encourage  their 
growth,  and  give  all  plants  plenty  of  air  whenever  the 
weather  will  admit. 


APRIL 

This  will  be  a  busy  month,  for  much  has  to  be  done, 
and  on  the  operation  of  the  flower  garden  this  month  will 
depend  much  the  appearance  for  the  whole  summer.  In  the 
first  place,  rake  the  ground  where  you  intend  to  sow 
flower  seeds ;  it  is  not  advisable  to  dig  the  ground  for  that 
purpose,  as  it  is  yet  too  cold  to  receive  seed ;  that  part 
which  can  be  turned  over  with  the  rake  has  received  the 
warmth  of  the  sun,  and  is  consequently  more  congenial  for 
their  reception.  To  give  a  catalogue  of  such  seeds  as  I 
think  most  suitable  for  the  flower  garden  is  foreign  to  the 
object  in  view,  as  what  one  person  would  think  ornamental 
another  might  not;  therefore,  persons  in  their  selections 
must  be  governed  by  their  own  taste.  There  are  no  flow- 
ers but  what  some  one  will  admire.  All  flowers  possess 
beauty,  but  we  do  not  all  appreciate  it.  Carnations,  Pico- 


APRIL.  293 

tees,  and  Pinks  intended  to  flower  in  the  open  ground, 
should  be  set  out  without  delay,  and  those  intended  to 
flower  in  pots  should  be  shifted  into  five  inch  ones,  and  be 
encouraged  in  their  growth  j  it  would  be  a  good  plan  to  sink 
the  pots  into  the  open  ground  until  the  flowers  are  ready 
to  expand,  then  remove  them  to  a  shady  situation.  Finish 
dividing  and  planting  perennial  Sunflowers,  Double  Sweet 
Williams,  Scarlet  Lychnis,  Double  Fever  Few,  and  all 
fibrous  rooted  plants  that  will  bear  dividing,  as  they  will 
root  freely.  By  the  last  of  this  month  dig  up  your  garden 
and  (if  the  weather  is  warm)  plant  Gladiolus,  Tuberose, 
Tigridia  pavonia,  Conchiflora,  and  such  Amaryillisses  as 
bloom  in  the  summer. 

'  Persons  wishing  to  have  early  Dahlias  should  place 
the  roots  in  a  half  spent  hot  bed,  but  it  would  be  best  not 
to  sprout  them  before  next  month,  if  you  wish  good  flow- 
ers. In  the  last  of  the  month  begin  to  sow  biennial  and 
perennial  flowering  seeds.  Hyacinths  and  Tulips  in  the 
open  ground  will  be  advancing  rapidly  towards  blooming ; 
should  any  require  a  stick  to  support  them  let  it  be  done 
neatly,  and  loosen  the  soil  between  the  rows ;  it  will  benefit 
them  much.  Turf  for  lawns  or  plats  in  front  situations 
may  be  laid  to  advantage,  and  shade  trees  may  still  be 
planted  out,  but  not  later  than  the  first  week  in  the  month. 
Arbor  Vitae,  White  Pines,  and  Cedars,  and  the  like,  for 
ornamenting  the  garden,  may  be  planted  all  this  month. 
Seeds  sown  last  month  should  be  attended  to,  as  the  frost  is 
apt  to  kill  them  in  the  seed  leaf.  In  the  last  of  this  month 
take  cuttings  of  Chrysanthemums,  place  them  under  glass, 
and  in  four  weeks  they  will  be  well  rooted. 


294  A  GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

THE    PARLOR. 

Give  your  plants  plenty  of  air,  and  begin  to  water  them 
more  freely.  Tender  Roses  may  be  planted  out,  and  also 
be  propagated  by  cuttings.  Orange  and  Lemon  Trees  that 
require  removing  into  larger  pots  or  tubs,  should  have  it 
done.  Pomegranate,  Crape  Myrtle,  and  Jasmines,  should 
be  either  repotted  or  planted  into  the  open  ground.  Azalia? 
and  Rhododendrons  will  require  plenty  of  water,  or  their 
flowers  will  drop.  Camellias  will  still  be  in  bloom ;  follow 
the  direction  given  last  month.  Calceolarias,  Cinerarias, 
Auriculas,  and  Polyanthuses  will  now  begin  to  flower,  and 
should  be  placed  in  the  shade.  Slips  should  be  taken  from 
the  Auricula  while  in  flower,  as  each  color  or  variety  can 
then  be  mar*  readily  marked,  and  the  slips  will  root  quick. 
Chinese  Primroses,  as  they  go  out  of  flower,,  should  be 
divided  by  parting  the  root ;  each  star  will  make  a  root  by 
placing  them  in  the  shade,  and  watering  them  regularly. 
Geraniums  will  soon  be  in  flower,  and  will  require  atten- 
tion to  make  them  flower  well ;  slips,  taken  off  at  any  time 
after  the  middle  of  the  month,  will  make  good  plants  for 
next  season.  Seeds  sown  last  month,  for  parlor  culture, 
will  be  large  enough  some  time  this  month  to  transplant 
into  four  inch  pots ;  give  them  rich  soil ;  use  no  saucers 
for  them,  as  they  are  required  for  swamp  plants  only. 


MAT.  295 


MAY. 

This  is  another  busy  month  in  this  department,  and  the 
earliest  attention  must  be  directed  to  finish  sowing  all  kinds 
of  seeds ;  transplant  those  sown  in  March  and  April.  — 
Seedling  plants,  when  of  sufficient  size,  should  be  trans- 
planted to  where  they  are  intended  to  flower,  and  great 
care  should  be  taken  to  remove  them  with  as  much  dirt  as 
will  hang  to  the  roots.  This  rule  does  not  apply  to  the 
Pansy,  for  if  grown  large  it  will  be  necessary  to  wash 
the  dirt  from  their  roots,  or  the  plants  will  not  survive  the 
summer. 

Tender  Roses  should  be  planted  into  the  open  ground, 
and  they  will  flower  more  freely  all  summer,  and  need  no 
trouble  the  remainder  of  the  season ;  they  will  make  large 
plants  by  the  fall.  Carnations,  Picotees,  and  Pinks,  now 
spindling  up  to  flower,  should  have  sticks,  and  be  tied  as 
they  grow,  to  prevent  the  misfortune  often  attending  them 
by  being  broken  off  by  rough  winds,  or  by  accident 
Hyacinths,  when  done  flowering,  and  as  soon  as  their 
leaves  die  down,  should  be  taken  up ;  also,  Crown  Impe- 
rials and  Crocuses.  The  best  time  to  take  up  Tulips  is 
about  five  weeks  after  flowering ;  but  much  depends  upon 
the  weather.  Above  all  things,  never  take  up  bulbous 
roots,  if  possible,  in  damp  or  rainy  weather ;  the  ground 
ought  to  be  dry,  or  the  sudden  transition  may  destroy 
them.  It  will  be  found  best  to  take  up  bulbous  roots 
every  season,  which  prevents  the  ground  from  deteriorating 
by  the  excrementitious  discharge  from  the  bulbs  into  the 


296  A   GUIDE  TO   FLORICULTURE. 

soil.  It  is  so  with  the  agriculturist ;  a  farmer  finds  it  ne- 
cessary to  change  his  crops.  Were  the  system  adhered  to, 
of  sowing  the  same  field  with  any  particular  kind  of  grain 
for  several  years,  it  would  become  sterile,  and  fit  for 
nothing. 

Wallflowers  may  be  increased,  in  moist  weather,  by 
taking  slips  of  the  young  shoots  and  planting  them  in  the 
shade,  and  watering  them  regularly  in  dry  weather ;  in  six 
weeks,  if  properly  attended  to,  they  will  be  fit  to  pot  offj 
or  they  may  remain  in  the  ground  until  fall,  if  your  object 
be  large  plants,  which  is  desirable.  No  Wallflower  is 
worth  growing  from  slips  but  the  Double  and  Semi- 
Double  ;  the  latter  is  preferable.  Cape  Bulbs,  of  any 
kind  that  will  flower  in  the  summer,  should  be  planted 
without  delay.  Chrysanthemums  may  still  be  propagated 
by  cuttings.  Hoe,  rake,  and  keep  the  beds  clear  of  weeds, 
for  nothing  attracts  the  attention  of  strangers  so  much  as  a 
well  regulated  flower  garden,  free  of  weeds. 

China  Pinks  should  be  planted  alongside  the  Double 
Sweet  William ;  by  this  means  the  two  will  cross  with- 
out artificial  fecundation,  and  produce  a  beautiful  hybrid 
plant,  ornamental  as  well  as  desirable  in  the  flower  gar- 
den. 

Those  whose  taste  leads  to  the  improvement  of  flowers 
by  hybridizing,  should  now  begin,  as  the  field  opens  for 
their  industry.  This  art  has  done  much  for  the  florist ;  as 
a  proof  of  which  we  need  only  point  out  the  perfection  of 
the  Rose.  There  are  other  plants  equally  as  susceptible  of 
improvement.  The  industrious  bee  was  the  first  to  en- 
lighten us  on  this  subject,  as  it  carried  the  pollen  from 
flower  to  flower,  effecting  what  man  little  dreamed  of.  To 


MAY.  297 

carry  out  this  system,  it  would  be  necessary,  the  first  thing 
in  the  morning,  to  take  a  camel's  hair  pencil  and  remove 
the  pollen  from  the  anthers  of  one  flower,  and  place  it  on 
the  summit  of  the  pistil  of  a  different  plant,  whose  anthers 
were  previously  cut  out  very  early  in  the  morning,  before 
that  flower  had  shed  its  pollen.  However  simple  this  may 
appear,  still  there  is  great  nicety  required  in  the  operation  ; 
and  if  the  object  has  been  attained,  the  flower  impregnated 
will  fade  in  twenty-four  hours ;  if  you  discern  no  percepti- 
ble difference  in  the  appearance  of  the  flower,  try  another, 
and  you  may  meet  with  better  success.  With  flowers  that 
do  not  seed  freely,  for  instance  the  Chrysanthemum,  Car- 
nation, &c.,  it  will  be  a  waste  of  time  to  try  experiments  of 
this  kind. 


THE  PARLOR. 

Auriculas  past  flowering  should  be  watered  regularly  in 
dry  weather,  and  be  placed  where  the  sun  does  not  shine 
after  nine  in  the  morning ;  remove  all  dead  leaves  as  they 
appear,  and  keep  the  pots  clear  of  weeds.  This  is  a  good 
time  to  detach  offsets  from  the  parent  plant ;  pot  and  keep 
them  in  the  shade  until  rooted,  and  then  treat  them  the 
same  as  full  grown  plants.  Polyanthuses  may  be  treated 
the  same  as  Auriculas.  The  Polyanthus  is  subject  to  the 
attacks  of  the  red  spider.  The  leaves  should  be  watered 
frequently  all  over. 

The  Camellia  will  now  be  out  of  flower,  and  may  be 
placed  in  a  shady  situation  for  the  summer,  and  syringed 
often,  to  keep  their  leaves  clean,  and  to  keep  the  red  spider 
off,  P.J  which  will  be  necessary,  if  you  want  a  profusion  of 


298  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

flowers  next  season.  This  magnificent  plant  will  not 
thrive  without  the  leaves  are  kept  clean,  and  have  a  good 
drainage,  which  should  be  attended  to  when  repotting. 
Geraniums  will  grow  from  slips,  also  Verbenas  and  Helio- 
tropes ;  the  two  latter  may  be  planted  in  the  open  ground, 
where  they  will  make  a  showy  appearance  through  the 
summer.  Oxales,  when  done  flowering,  should  be  removed 
into  the  shade,  and  be  watered  sparingly  until  in  a  state  of 
rest,  when  no  more  should  be  given.  Plants  of  all  de- 
scriptions (Cacti  excepted)  may  be  removed  the  last  of  this 
month  into  the  garden  where  a  shady  situation  is  prefer- 
able for  most  pot  plants ;  they  must  be  watered  daily. 


JUNE. 

Some  activity  will  be  necessary  in  this  department  the 
whole  of  this  month.  The  attention  of  the  amateur  will 
be  required,  first  to  the  Carnations,  Picotees,  and  choice 
Pinks  in  tieing  them  up ;  and  as  their  flowers  will  begin 
to  expand  this  month,  if  you  discover  any  inclined  to  burst 
on  one  side,  take  a  sharp  pointed  knife  and  make  an  in- 
cision on  the  opposite  side  of  the  calyx,  for  the  weather 
will  sometimes  cause  that  detect,  and  if  precautionary 
means  be  not  taken  the  petals  will  fall  out,  and  destroy  the 
symmetry  of  the  flower.  The  majority  of  prize  flowers  of 
this  family  of  plants  are  constitutionally  defective  in  that 
particular.  When  such  is  the  case,  take  a  fine  piece  of 
Russia  matting,  or  a  piece  of  bladder,  and  tie  around  the 


JUNE.  299 

calyx  about  midway,  previously  dipping  it  into  water  to 
make  it  pliable.  As  these  flowers  begin  to  decay  com- 
mence piping  and  layering  them.  This  part  of  increasing 
your  stock  will  occupy  from  June  to  September,  as  some 
plants  are  much  earlier  than  others. 

All  danger  of  frost  being  now  over  begin  to  plant  out 
Dahlias  without  delay,  and  drive  a  stake  to  each  for  sup- 
port, as  they  progress  in  height. 

Finish  transplanting  all  annual  flowering  plants,  such 
as  China  Asters,  Balsams,  Cockscombs,  China  Pinks, 
Marigolds,  &c.  Biennials  and  perennials  can  be  trans- 
planted at  leisure.  Take  up  fall  flowering  bulbs,  sepa- 
rate the  offsets,  and  transplant  them  into  another  part  of 
the  garden. 

Take  up  all  bulbous  roots  that  have  done  flowering, 
whose  foliage  has  died  down,  and  place  them  in  a  shaded 
situation,  where  there  is  a  free  circulation  of  air,  to  dry, 
and  no  rain  can  reach  them. 

The  Ranunculus  may  be  removed  about  four  weeks 
after  flowering,  and  dried  and  packed  in  sand.  Anemones 
should  be  thus  treated  about  the  same  time,  or  they  will 
strike  fresh  root  fibres ;  being  more  succulent  than  the 
Ranunculus,  they  will  continue  growing  much  longer, 
which  should  not  be  allowed.  A  discrimination  is  to  be 
observed  in  their  management  that  requires  experience  to 
surmount. 

The  following  perennials  may  now  be  increased  by  cut- 
tings, before  their  flowers  expand :  —  Phlox,  in  all  its  varie- 
ties, Double  Scarlet  Lychnis,  Lobelia  cardinalis,  Ragged 
Robin,  by  division  of  the  roots,  suckers  of  the  Double 


300  A   GUIDE    TO    FLORICULTURE. 

Sweet  Williams  should  be  laid  down,  and  covered  with  the 
soil ;  they  will  root  freely. 

Hardy  Roses  should  be  layered  without  delay ;  they 
will  make  good  roots  by  the  fall.  Roses  should  be  layered 
in  much  the  same  manner  as  the  Carnation,  cut  in  at  the 
joint,  and  slit  half  way  up  to  the  next  joint.  Be  particular 
that  the  slit  does  not  close,  which  can  be  prevented  by 
placing  a  little  moss  between  ;  your  plants  will  make  good 
roots  by  November.  Chrysanthemums  should  be  divided 
at  the  roots,  placing  one  slip  only  in  a  five  inch  pot,  and 
top  them. 

In  moist  weather  trim  Box  to  make  it  uniform  and  neat. 
Mow  grass  plats  in  front  of  houses,  for  if  allowed  to  grow 
tall  it  destroys  the  beautiful  effect  so  desirable  in  its  appear- 
ance. Destroy  insects  on  plants  whenever  they  appear. 
Lay  tanner's  bark  or  gravel  in  the  walks,  and  keep 
every  part  free  of  weeds,  and  attend  to  other  little  mat- 
ters necessary  for  effect 

THE   PARLOR. 

Plants  of  all  descriptions  should  be  placed  in  the  shady 
side  of  the  garden,  but  avoid  the  drips  of  trees,  and  water 
them  every  evening.  Verbenas  and  Petunias  will  grow 
freely  from  cuttings,  and  may  be  planted  into  the  open 
ground  when  rooted ;  they  will  make  a  splendid  appear- 
ance through  the  summer,  when  planted  in  a  bed  by  them- 
selves ;  the  situation  should  be  open  and  airy,  to  ensure  a 
fine  bloom.  Orange  and  Lemon  Trees  should  be  removed 
out  into  the  open  air,  and  be  watered  regularly,  to  insure  a 
good  supply  of  fruit. 


JUNE.  301 

Succulent  plants  may  now  be  propagated,  particularly 
the  Cacti  family.  In  propagating  the  Cactus  by  cuttings, 
avoid  watering  them  until  their  roots  are  formed ;  even 
then  it  must  be  used  sparingly.  It  is  a  matter  of  doubt 
whether  this  family  of  plants  should  be  placed  out  of  doors 
in  the  summer.  The  safest  plan  will  be  to  keep  them  in 
the  house,  as  there  are  seasons  when  water  is  destructive  to 
them ;  heavy  rains  must,  therefore,  be  injurious.  It  will 
be  as  well  through  the  summer  to  lay  them  on  their  sides 
and  wash  them  to  keep  off  the  red  spider. 

June  is  a  good  time  to  graft  the  Cactus.  Geraniums 
may  be  propagated  by  cuttings  as  well  as  the  Heliotrope. 
Camellias  must  be  syringed  every  night,  to  keep  their 
leaves  clean,  as  the  dust  will  accumulate  on  them  in  dry 
weather  ;  water  them  every  night,  as  their  flower  buds  will 
now  begin  to  form.  Tender  Roses  may  be  increased  by 
cuttings  from  the  young  wood,  when  a  little  hardened; 
they  will  make  strong  plants  by  the  fall. 

This  month  is  the  best  in  the  whole  year  for  propagat- 
ing Roses ;  it  is  therefore  advisable  for  those  wishing  to 
increase  their  stock,  to  embrace  it.  Rose  cuttings  put  down 
in  April  will  be  fit  to  pot  off  the  last  of  the  month.  Ex- 
otic plants,  of  different  kinds,  may  be  increased  either  by 
cuttings  or  layering.  Auriculas  and  Polyanthuses  must  be 
removed  to  a  shady  situation,  and  will  require  strict  atten- 
tion through  the  summer.  Keep  your  pot  plants  clear  of 
dead  leaves  and  weeds.  Cinerarias  that  are  done  flower- 
ing may  be  planted  into  the  open  ground  in  the  shade, 
until  September,  the  best  time  to  take  slips  for  spring 
plants. 


302  A  GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 


JULY. 

Any  labor  omitted  last  month  should  now  be  attended 
to  without  delay.  Biennials  and  perennials  should  be 
planted  out  in  damp  weather,  about  six  inches  apart,  to 
gain  strength.  Dahlias  should  be  tied  up  securely,  to  pre- 
vent the  wind  and  rain  from  breaking  them  down.  Cut- 
tings of  Dahlias  may  be  taken  and  will  root  freely  in  the 
shade,  and  should  be  kept  in  four  inch  pots.  Plants  thus 
struck  and  kept  in  pots  will  do  better  to  propagate  from 
next  season ;  large  plants  in  the  open  ground  will  not 
flower  well  the  second  season  as  they  are  apt  to  be  ex- 
hausted, which  is  not  the  case  with  pot  plants. 

It  would  improve  Dahlias  much  to  place  manure  around 
the  roots,  to  keep  them  moist  in  dry  weather ;  syringe 
them  occasionally  to  keep  off  the  red  spider. 

Carnations,  Picotees,  and  choice  Pinks,  should  be 
layered  without  delay,  if  strong  plants  are  wanted  in  the 
fall ;  twenty-four  hours  prior  to  which,  water  your  plants 
freely,  to  make  them  bend  with  greater  facility,  or  the 
greater  portion  will  snap  off,  being  rather  brittle. 

The  easiest  way  to  propagate  Pinks  is  by  piping,  they 
being  more  susceptible  of  making-  root  by  this  process, 
than  the  Carnation.  In  layering  Carnations,  sometimes 
the  part  intended  to  be  layered  will  snap  off  notwithstand- 
ing all  the  precaution  you  may  use ;  should  the  plant  be 
valuable,  then  pipe  them  as  I  shall  point  out  for  Pinks. 
In  the  first  place  get  some  garden  soil,  and  make  it  light 
by  mixing  plenty  of  sand  and  rotten  leaves,  that  will  pass 


JULY.  303 

through  a  wire  seive.  Put  this  composition  into  a  ten 
inch  seed  pan,  and  level  the  top  and  water  it  well ;  then 
take  your  Pinks  intended  for  cuttings  and  cut  them  off  at 
the  third  joint  with  a  sharp  knife ;  he  careful  and  noi 
hruise  them';  also,  cut  off  the  ends  of  the  leaves  or  grass,  as 
the  gardeners  term  them.  Having  prepared  as  many  as 
you  wish,  place  them  in  a  basin  of  cold  water  for  about 
ten  minutes,  to  make  them  stiff  and  enter  the  soil  with 
more  ease ;  this  done,  take  a  bell  glass  and  press  on  the 
soil  to  make  i  mark,  the  better  to  guide  you  to  insert  your 
pipings ;  keep  them  within  the  space  designed  to  receive 
them ;  then  stick  them  into  the  soil  to  the  first  joint,  about 
half  an  inch  apart,  each  way  ;  water  them  gently  to  settle 
the  soil  around  the  plants;  and  when  the  grass  is  suf- 
ficiently dry  put  on  the  glass  to  exclude  the  air,  and  place 
them  in  the  shade.  At  the  expiration  of  two  weeks  take 
off  the  glass,  and  water  them ;  be  careful  and  not  cover 
them  until  the  grass  is  dry,  or  your  pipings  will  damp  off 
and  your  labor  be  lost.  When  you  perceive  they  begin 
to  grow  give  a  little  air  by  degrees.  You  will  find  some 
more  backward  than  others  in  growing,  which  will  require 
some  precaution  in  admitting  air  too  freely.  In  about  six 
weeks,  if  your  plants  have  been  well  attended  to,  they  will 
have  formed  sufficient  root  to  be  transplanted  into  the  open 
ground.  It  is  said  that  pipings  make  the  best  and  most 
hardy  plants.  Pinks  will  grow  readily  from  slips,  and 
make  large  plants  in  less  time  than  pipings,  which  is  a 
desirable  object.  It  will  frequently  happen  that  layers  are 
destroyed  by  heavy  and  continuous  rains ;  therefore  all  the 
layers  should  not  be  layered  at  once,  to  guard  against  such 
a  circumstance. 


304  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

Now  begin  to  bud  choice  Roses  on  the  Boursalt  and 
Maiden's  Blush  ;  the  former  is  the  best,  as  the  Blush  will 
be  always  throwing  out  suckers.  The  bark  should  be  pre- 
viously examined,  for  unless  it  parts  freely  it  will  be  use- 
less to  bud  or  inoculate  them. 

Spring  flowering  bulbs,  if  any  remain  in  the  ground, 
should  be  taken  up  without  delay  ;  if  allowed  to  strike 
fresh  root  it  will  be  too  late  to  remove  them  without  sus- 
taining much  injury. 

White  Lilies  may  be  taken  up  and  removed  by  the  last 
of  this  month,  without  injuring  them,  but  should  not  be 
kept  out  of  the  ground  over  six  weeks. 

In  dry  weather  water  China  Asters  and  Balsams  freely, 
if  you  wish  them  to  flower  well.  Chrysanthemums 
should  be  topped  this  month,  to  make  them  throw  out 
lateral  shoots,  and  those  wishing  dwarf  plants  can  layer 
them  ;  water  freely  and  they  will  soon  form  good  roots. 

THE    PARLOR. 

Camellias  must  be  attended  to  with  the  strictest  attention 
during  this  month,  as  the  quantity  of  their  flowers  will  de- 
pend on  this.  Those  wishing  a  good  show  of  flowers 
ought  to  assist  nature  in  her  work.  Fuchsias  should  now 
be  shifted  into  a  pot  one  size  larger,  and  be  watered  freely. 
Geraniums  should  be  cut  down  and  repotted,  and  the  tops 
converted  into  cuttings  for  new  flowering  plants.  Cactuses 
should  be  repotted.  Verbenas  will  need  a  pot  one  size 
larger.  Orange  and  Lemon  Trees  should  be  budded,  and 
water  administered  freely  to  all  pot  plants. 


AUGUST.  305 


AUGUST. 

The  labor  of  transplanting  annuals,  biennials,  and  peren- 
nials must  now  necessarily  be  over  for  the  season ;  and 
attention  should  be  directed  to  their  improvement,  in 
making  them  appear  neat  by  tying  stakes  and  trellises 
for  their  tender  branches  to  support  themselves  on,  and  cut 
off  unsightly  branches  whenever  you  discover  them. — 
Dahlias  should  be  trimmed  as  often  as  necessary;  tie  them 
up  neatly  to  their  stakes  to  protect  them  from  heavy  rains 
and  winds  ;  if  the  weather  should  be  dry  water  them  at 
the  roots,  and  syringe  their  foliage  all  over  occasionally; 
this  will  destroy  the  red  spider  and  keep  your  plants  in  a 
healthy  state.  If  you  find  small  insects  infesting  your 
plants  you  must  endeavor  to  destroy  them  ;  to  accomplish 
this  object  it  should  be  done  in  the  morning,  while  the 
dew  is  on  the  plant,  as  they  are  less  active  then  than  at 
other  times.  It  will  be  necessary  sometimes,  in  the  early 
season,  to  cut  your  plants  nearly  to  the  ground,  as  they 
are  apt  to  eat  out  the  bud  and  stunt  the  plants ;  but  when 
the  plant  is  full  of  vigor  they  will  outgrow  the  damage 
done  by  these  troublesome  insects. 

Be  particular  and  never  allow  weeds  to  go  to  seed  this 
month;  it  will  save  you  much  future  trouble.  Carnations, 
Picotees,  and  Pinks  may  still  be  layered,  where  it  was  not 
attended  to  last  month ;  those  already  rooted  may  be  sepa- 
rated from  the  parent  plant  and  set  out  into  the  open 
ground  until  October  to  gain  strength.  Carnation  and 
Pink  pipings  will  require  strict  attention  in  dry  weather, 

26 


300  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

and  must  be  kept  damp.  Collect  seeds,  when  the  weather 
is  fine,  from  different  plants  as  soon  as  ripe  ;  cut  down  old 
flowering  stems  of  plants  that  are  unsightly. 

Chrysanthemums  should  be  topped  without  delay,  if  not 
already  done,  and  plants  layered  last  month  should  be 
watered  every  night,  as  well  as  those  in  pots. 

Seeds  of  Pansies  should  be  sown,  to  make  large  plants 
for  the  spring,  and  choice  varieties  may  be  increased  by 
cuttings. 

Roses  may  be  increased  by  budding  so  long  as  the  bark 
parts  freely. 

By  the  last  of  this  month  begin  to  increase  double 
flowering  fibrous  rooted  perennials,  that  have  done  flower- 
ing, such  as  the  Scarlet  Lychnis,  Daisies,  Polyanthuses, 
Auriculas,  and  Sweet  Williams,  also  Pansies,  and  different 
kinds  of  Campanulas,  Rose  Campions,  &c.  In  dividing 
these  roots  let  it  be  performed  in  damp  weather,  and  always 
place  them  in  the  shade ;  your  plants  will  then  make  good 
roots  in  a  short  time.  Seedling  Auriculas  and  Polyan- 
thuses should  be  potted  off  into  three  inch  pots ;  they  will 
flower  in  the  spring.  In  dry  weather  it  will  be  necessary 
to  water  your  flower  beds.  This  will  only  apply  to  small 
gardens  within  the  city,  for  plants  in  the  country  will  grow 
well  enough  without,  being  invigorated  by  a  free  circula- 
tion of  air,  a  great  desideratum,  and  not  to  be  obtained 
within  the  precincts  of  the  city ;  artificial  means  must 
therefore  be  resorted  to,  to  counterbalance  such  defi- 
ciencies. 


AUGUST.  307 

THE  PARLOR. 

Camellias  by  this  time  have  formed  their  flower  buds 
fully,  and  will  now  commence  growing ;  they  may  be  in- 
creased from  cuttings  (single  only),  or  by  grafting.  Much 
care  should  be  taken  in  propagating  this  species  of  mag- 
nificent plants  by  keeping  the  cuttings  and  grafted  plants 
in  one  uniform  heat,  if  you  wish  to  succeed.  Calla  Ethio- 
pica  should  be  divided  at  the  roots,  and  be  repotted.  — 
Orange  and  Lemon  Trees  may  still  be  budded,  if  not 
done  before,  with  a  prospect  of  success.  There  are  many 
seeds  that  may  be  sown  for  this  department,  which  will 
flower  at  different  periods  through  the  winter,  such  as 
Nemophilla,  Mignonette,  Schizanthus,  Mimulas,  &c. 

Geraniums  may  still  be  increased  by  cuttings.  Rose 
cuttings  put  down  in  May  will  now  be  fit  to  pot  off  All 
plants  in  pots  must  be  liberally  supplied  with  water  during 
this  month,  to  keep  them  in  health. 


SEPTEMBER. 

With  this  month  commences  the  first  indication  of  the 
appearance  of  winter,  which  is  exemplified  in  the  irregu- 
larity in  plants.  Having  wholly  performed  the  functions 
of  life  which  nature  and  art  bestowed  on  them,  they  will 
begin  to  decay.  After  their  seeds  are  collected  cut  their 
stems  off,  if  perennials ;  biennials  and  annuals  should  be 
pulled  up  and  thrown  away  to  preserve  a  neat  appearance. 


308  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

Carnations,  Picotees,  and  choice  Pinks,  may  still  be  layer- 
ed, until  the  middle  of  the  month,  but  not  after,  as  the 
season  will  be  too  far  advanced  to  enable  them  to  make 
good  roots  before  the  frost  sets  in.  Those  layered  last 
month,  and  well  rooted,  should  be  separated  from  the 
parent  plant.  Dahlias  will  now  be  luxuriating  in  their 
greatest  beauty,  and  should  be  tied  up  to  prevent  their 
fragile  branches  from  breaking  off  by  the  effects  of  wind 
or  rain.  Chinese  Chrysanthemums  will  need  much  at- 
tention at  this  time  ;  they  must  be  regularly  watered,  and 
those  in  the  ground,  when  their  flower  buds  are  well 
formed,  should  be  lifted  in  rainy  weather,  and  those  layer- 
ed to  make  dwarf  plants  should  also  be  potted.  Com- 
mence preparing  your  beds  for  the  reception  of  bulbous 
roots,  for  beds  should  be  prepared  at  least  two  weeks  before 
being  planted,  to  allow  the  ground  to  settle. 

Tender  bulbs  in  the  ground,  such  as  the  Gladiolus, 
Amaryllis,  Tuberose,  Pavonia,  &c.,  should  be  taken  up  on 
the  first  appearance  of  frost.  By  the  last  of  the  month 
commence  removing  hardy  biennials  and  perennials  to 
where  they  are  intended  to  flower  the  coming  spring. 

Divide  perennials,  such  as  the  Double  Sweet  William, 
Scarlet  Lychnis,  Foxglove,  <fcc.,  so  that  the  plants  may 
gain  strength  before  the  winter  sets  in.  Many  annuals 
will  withstand  the  winter,  if  their  seeds  be  sown  this 
month,  such  as  the  Rocket  Larkspur,  Flos  Adonis,  Catch- 
fly,  Candytuft,  &c.,  and  many  others  may  be  sown  and 
potted  off  next  month,  and  protected ;  for  any  annual  that 
can  be  preserved  through  the  winter  will  flower  earlier,  be 
much  larger,  and  will  produce  better  seed  for  another 
season. 


SEPTEMBER:  309 

THE  PARLOR. 

Tender  Roses  should  be  potted,  if  in  the  open  ground ; 
let  it  be  done  in  moist  weather,  and  they  will  recover  and 
flower  again  in  November.  Geranium  cuttings  should  be 
potted,  giving  them  a  good  drainage.  Lemons,  Oranges, 
and  Myrtles  should  be  housed  the  latter  part  of  this  month, 
previous  to  which  either  top  dress  the  plants,  or  shift  them 
into  a  tub  or  pot  one  size  larger.  The  seeds  of  Mignio- 
nette,  and  other  plants  wanted  to  flower  early  in  the  house, 
may  still  be  sown.  Verbenas,  Heliotropes,  and  other 
choice  plants  that  are  tender,  may  be  potted.  Plants  that 
are  succulent  prefer  a  light  dry  soil,  or  their  humidity  will 
cause  them  to  rot ;  but  shrubby  plants  will  require  a  strong 
soil,  if  convenient  a  maiden  soil  with  manure ;  and,  if 
necessary,  a  small  portion  of  sand  to  prevent  its  binding. 
Be  sure  and  give  all  plants  good  drainage.  It  often  hap- 
pens that  at  the  last  of  this  month  we  are  visited  by  a 
heavy  frost ;  it  will  therefore  be  important  to  have  all 
tender  plants  ready  to  be  removed,  to  prevent  injury. 

In  the  middle  of  the  month  remove  Camellias  into 
their  winter  quarters,  prior  to  which  wash  every  leaf 
clean,  as  this  magnificent  plant  will  not  thrive  unless 
kept  clean,  and  give  them  all  the  air  possible,  or  the 
transition  will  cause  their  flower  buds  to  drop,  which 
should  be  avoided. 

In  lifting  Oleanders  that  were  placed  into  the  open 
ground  in  the  spring,  great  care  should  be  taken  not  to 
injure  the  small  and  tender  root  fibres,  or  their  heads  will 
droop  and  not  rise  again,  much  to  their  injury  in  appear- 


310  A  GUIDE  TO   FLORICULTURE. 

ance.     The  Auricula  and  Polyanthus  may  be  divided  and 
potted  off,  and  placed  in  winter  quarters. 


OCTOBER. 

The  last  of  this  month  commences  the  busy  time  in  the 
flower  garden,  and  it  will  be  time  to  provide  a  suitable 
place  for  such  plants  as  require  some  protection.     Beds 
should  now  be  prepared  for  Tulips,  Hyacinths,  and  other 
hardy  bulbs  that  flower  in  the  spring.     Hyacinths,  Tulips, 
Jonquils,  and  other  bulbs  intended  to  flower  in  the  house, 
should  be  potted,  and  then  sunk  into  the  ground  until 
December ;  by  that  time  they  will  have  formed  good  roots, 
and  may  then  be  brought  into  the  house  to  flower.     It  is 
time  now  to  finish  dividing  perennial  rooted  plants  that 
were  omitted  last  month.     The  Perennial  Sunflower,  if  not 
divided  and  removed  every  season,  will  return  to  its  pris- 
tine state,  and  lose  its  interesting 'beauty;  also  divide  the 
Double  Feverfew,  Scarlet  Lychnis,  Sweet  William,  Phlox, 
and  all  fibrous  rooted  plants  that  require  protection.     Pan- 
sies  may  be  divided  and  potted,  being  careful  that  every 
slip  be  furnished  with  roots.     Transplant  seedling  Canter- 
bury Bells,  Foxgloves,  Rose  Campions,  Wallflowers,  and 
Brompton  Stocks  should  be  potted  off  into  five  inch  pots, 
and  be  protected  through  the  winter.     Chinese  Chrysan- 
themums in  the  ground  should  be  potted  in  moist  weather, 
before  the  frost  takes  them,  or  the  beauty  of  their  flowers 
will  be  injured. 


OCTOBER.  311 

Pot  off  Carnations,  Picotees,  and  the  finest  Pinks,  and 
place  them  where  the  frost,  snow,  or  rain  will  not  injure 
them  during  the  winter.  Roses,  Arbor  Vitaes,  and  most 
deciduous  trees  and  shrubs  can  be  removed  without  dan- 
ger after  the  25th  of  this  month. 

Labels  should  now  be  prepared  for  Dahlias,  and  secure- 
ly fixed  to  every  one  as  you  take  them  up,  to  prevent  any 
mistake.  Take  up  tender  bulbs  on  the  first  appearance  of 
frost,  and  place  them  in  an  airy  room  to  dry.  Remove  all 
decayed  flower  stems,  and  keep  your  beds  as  neat  as  pos- 
sible ;  dead  leaves  should  be  kept  by  themselves,  to  be 
converted  into  manure  for  pot  plants.  Whatever  was  re- 
commended last  month  is  also  applicable  to  this ;  for  some- 
times the  season  is  much  later  one  year  than  another,  and 
the  whole  management  must  be  regulated  accordingly. 

It  would  not  be  amiss  to  get  a  load  of  maiden  soil,  and 
mix  a  small  portion  of  old  manure  with  it,  to  stand  all  the 
winter  exposed  to  the  weather,  turning  it  over  occasionally 
to  mellow.  It  is  excellent  for  potting  off  plants  in  the 
spring,  and  much  advantage  would  be  gained  in  making 
your  plants  grow  more  freely  and  luxuriantly. 

THE    PARLOR. 

In  housing  Camellias,  great  care  should  be  taken  tc 
regulate  the  heat  of  the  room ;  for  too  much  dry  heat  will 
cause  the  flower  buds  to  blast.  Where  the  atmosphere  is 
arid  it  will  be  found  impossible  for  those  plants  to  succeed. 
As  the  Camellia  is  rather  hardy,  and  will  bear  considerable 
frost,  a  room  that  is  kept  a  little  above  the  freezing  point 
will  be  found  most  congenial.  Much  uniformity  is  re- 


312  A  GUIDE  TO  FLORICULTURE. 

quired ;  a  room,  therefore,  that  is  kept  very  warm  in  the 
day  time,  and  the  frost  allowed  to  penetrate  at  night,  creates 
too  great  a  change  for  any  variety  of  plants.  If  uniformity 
cannot  be  obtained  keep  them  in  the  coldest  part  of  the 
room,  as  the  change  would  not  be  felt  so  much.  A  pit 
made  about  six  feet  deep,  covered  with  glass,  is  preferable 
to  the  green-house  for  the  Camellia,  and  when  the  plants 
are  ready  to  expand  they  can  be  removed  to  the  parlor,  to 
perfect  their  flowers. 

Geranium  cuttings  should  be  potted  off,  and  moderately 
watered  ;  Rose  cuttings  put  down  in  June  will  be  fit  to  pot 
off  Canterbury  Bells  and  Foxgloves  intended  for  early 
flowering  should  be  potted  for  that  service.  Oranges,  Le- 
mons, Oleanders,  and  similar  shrubs  and  trees  should  be 
placed  out  of  reach  of  frost.  Hydrangeas,  Fuchsias,  Glox- 
inias, and  other  tender  deciduous  plants,  should  be 
watered  sparingly,  as  their  time  of  rest  is  drawing  nigh. 
Auriculas,  Polyanthuses,  and  all  other  Primulas  should  be 
removed  into  the  house.  In  mild  weather  give  all  plants 
just  removed  into  the  house  all  the  air  possible,  which  will 
cause  them  to  feel  the  change  lightly;  but  guard  against 
frost. 


NOVEMBER. 

The  busy  time  is  not  yet  over ;  much  has  to  be  done, 
more  especially  if  planting  and  transplanting  were  omitted 


NOVEMBER.  313 

last  month.  Dahlias  in  the  ground  should  be  taken  up 
without  delay,  or  there  will  be  danger  of  losing  them  by 
frost.  Your  attention  should  now  be  directed  to  plant- 
ing Tulips,  Hyacinths,  Crocuses,  Crown  Imperials,  and 
other  bulbous  rooted  plants.  As  a  general  rule,  about  the 
middle  of  this  month  is  the  best  time  for  planting  bulbs  that 
flower  in  the  spring,  though  it  will  do  as  late  as  Christmas 
in  mild  weather.  But  this  season  of  the  year  being  liable 
to  change  it  will  be  best  to  plant  when  the  ground  is  in  a 
fit  state.  It  frequently  occurs  that  bulbs  are  brought  to 
cities  by  Germans  and  Frenchmen,  and  sold  at  a  low  price 
when  the  proper  season  for  planting  is  over  ;  however  cheap 
those  bulbs  may  appear  still  they  are  dear  at  any  price. 
Bulbs  should  be  planted  when  you  discover  in  them  a  pro- 
pensity to  grow,  for  being  kept  out  of  the  ground  after  that 
time  debilitates  them,  and  they  are  soon  worthless.  These 
remarks  will  also  apply  to  those  sold  at  seed  stores.  It  will 
be  found  better  to  give  a  fair  price  for  bulbs  at  this  time, 
than  to  buy  them  at  a  low  price  at  Christmas,  or  after.  I 
wish  to  make  another  remark,  that  is,  these  annual  vendors 
of  Harlem  bulbs,  generally  bring  nothing  but  the  refuse  of 
that  market,  for  good  bulbs  will  always  bring  a  better  price 
than  they  can  sell  them  at ;  but  when  you  purchase  at  a 
respectable  seed  store  you  may  naturally  expect  good  bulbs, 
if  purchased  in  time,  as  there  is  a  reputation  at  stake, 
whereas  these  exotic  vendors  have  nothing  to  part  with  but 
their  bulbs. 

Chinese  Everblooming,  and  other  pot  Roses  intended  to 

remain  in  the  ground  through  the  winter,  should  have  old 

manure  laid  over  their  roots,  and  the  bush  tied  up,  enveloped 

in  straw,  or  be   covered  with  a  box.     This  protection  will 

27 


314  A    GUIDE   TO    FLORICULTURE. 

save  much  trouble  in  keeping  them  in  the  house,  and  their 
flowers  will  be  much  better  the  next  summer.  Hardy 
Roses  may  still  be  pruned,  and  those  that  are  intended  to 
be  removed  to  another  situation  can  now  be  moved  with 
safety,  as  also  ornamental  trees  and  shrubs ;  for  transplant- 
ing this  month  is  the  best  in  the  year,  and  less  trimming 
will  be  required  than  if  planted  in  the  spring.  The  Car- 
nation family  should  be  removed  to  their  winter  quarters 
without  delay.  Paeonies,  Phloxes,  and  other  perennials 
may  still  be  removed,  the  sooner  the  better.  Manure  such 
beds  and  borders  as  stand  in  need  of  such  food.  Clear  away 
all  dead  flower  stalks,  and  other  rubbish ;  turn  up  your 
beds,  and  make  this  department  as  neat  and  clean  as  possi- 
ble for  the  winter. 

THE    PARLOR. 

All  pot  plants  will  require  air  in  mild  weather,  for  if 
they  are  well  kept  this  month  it  will  have  wonderful 
effect  on  their  health,  and  enable  them  to  bear  their  con- 
finement through  the  winter  with  better  facility.  If  not 
well  ventilated  this  month  they  will  have  a  sickly  hue,  and 
will  seldom  survive  the  month  of  March.  Camellias  will 
require  attention,  and  must  be  kept  clean,  and  be  watered 
regular ;  for  if  the  roots  be  allowed  to  get  dry  and  then 
water  is  applied  freely,  rest  assured  their  buds  will  droop, 
and  you  will  lose  the  beauty  of  their  flowers  for  a  season. 
If  the  weather  is  mild  never  neglect  to  give  them  plenty 
of  air.  Hydrangeas,  Crape  Myrtles,  Pomegranates,  and 
other  deciduous  plants  and  shrubs  may  be  placed  in  the 
cellar,  out  of  the  reach  of  frost ;  also  Orange  and  Lemon 


NOVEMBER.  315 

Trees ;  the  two  latter  do  not  like  to  be  kept  in  too  damp  a 
place,  or  their  fruit  will  fall.  Geraniums  should  be  watered, 
sparingly.  Hyacinths  and  other  bulbs  intended  for  glasses 
may  still  be  buried  in  the  ground,  or  in  tanners3  bark  in 
the  cellar,  to  form  their  roots.  Seedling  annuals  intended 
to  flower  in  the  house  should  be  placed  near  the  window, 
to  receive  the  benefit  of  sun  and  light.  Chrysanthemums 
should  be  liberally  supplied  with  water,  as  their  flowers 
will  now  be  ia  perfection.  Repot  Cinerarias  and  Chinese 
Primroses ;  .cease  to  water  Gloxineas  and  Fuchsias.  The 
Primrose  family  should  be  protected.  Foxgloves  and  Can- 
terbury Bells,  in  pots,  should  be  brought  into  the  house, 
with  other  biennials  and  perennials,  for  early  blooming. 
What  was  recommended  last  month  and  was  not  done, 
should  be  attended  to  before  being  nipped  with  the  frost. 


DECEMBER. 

It  is  time  to  presume  that  the  work  of  the  flower  garden 
is  drawing  to  a  close  for  the  season,  and  little  now  remains 
to  be  done.  You  may  still  trim  Roses  in  mild  weather, 
and  remove  trees  and  shrubs  so  long  as  the  ground  is  fit  for 
the  operation :  mulch  them  with  old  manure  at  the  same 
time,  which  will  be  of  great  advantage,  if  the  winter  should 
be  severe.  Lay  a  protection  of  manure,  nearly  an  inch 
thick,  on  your  Tulip  and  Hyacinth  beds.  In  mild  weather 
manure  such  beds  as  need  it,  and  turn  them  over.  This 
will  have  a  tendency  to  kill  the  cut  worm ;  still  follow  up 


316  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

the  directions  recommended  last  month,  if  not  already  done. 
The  Carnation  family  will  require  little  01  no  water  this 
month ;  particularly  ,the  foliage,  as  there  will  be  some 
danger  of  frost. 

THE   PARLOR. 

Chrysanthemums  past  flowering  should  have  their  flower 
stems  cut  off,  and  the  plants  put  away  until  spring.  Plants 
done  growing  should  have  no  water  given  them.  Begin 
to  lift  Hyacinths  and  other  bulbs  buried  in  the  ground,  that 
are  intended  to  be  flowered  in  glasses  ;  wash  them  clean  and 
be  careful  not  to  injure  the  root  fibres  ;  place  them  in  glasses 
of  clean  water,  and  change  it  when  foetid.  Bulbs  in  glasses 
should  be  placed  so  that  the  crown  only  should  touch  the 
water.  Those  in  pots  should  also  be  lifted,  the  pots  washed 
clean,  and  placed  in  saucers  near  the  window ;  those  in 
glasses  should  also  be  placed  near  the  window,  and  be  re- 
moved to  a  warm  part  of  the  room  at  night,  for  if  the  water 
be  allowed  to  freeze  the  glasses  will  break :  attention  will 
obviate  this.  Should  any  plants  get  frosted  this  month 
remove  them  into  a  dark  place  until  the  frost  is  drawn  out, 
which  is  the  only  chance  to  recover  them.  The  buds  of 
the  Camellia  will  still  continue  to  swell,  and  some  will 
begin  to  expand ;  if  so,  give  them  plenty  of  water,  and 
should  the  moss  accumulate  on  the  soil  remove  it  an/ 
supply  the  place  with  fresh.  This  will  make  their  bur? 
swell  more  freely. 


BOTANICAL  GLOSSARY. 


ABRUPT,  leaf  pinnate,  with  an  old  or  terminal  leaflet. 
ACUMINATE,  having  an  open  or  awl-shaped  point. 
AGGREGATE,  gathered  together  in  fascicles  or  bundles. 
ALTERNATE,  branches,  leaves,  flowers,  &c.,  starting  at  different 

distances  on  the  stem. 

ALVEOLATE,  with  cells,  resembling  the  honeycomb. 
ANTHER,  that  part  of  the  stamen  which  contains  the  pollen. 
APETALOUS,  plants  whose  floral  development  is  without  petals. 
APPRESSED,  when  the  limb  of  a  leaf  is  pressed  close  upon  the 

stem ;  or  when  hairs  are  laid  flat  upon  the  surface  of  a  plant 

they  are  said  to  be  appressed. 
ARMS,  plants  furnished  with  prickles  and  thorns,  are  said  to  be 

armed. 

AROMATIC,  sweet  scented. 
AROMA,  odor,  perfume,  fragrance. 
ARROW-FORM,  shaped  like  an  arrow-head,  hind  lobes  acute  saggi- 

tate. 

ARTICULATED,  jointed,  as  in  the  column  or  stem  of  the  grass. 
ASSURGENT,  rising  perpendicularly,  without  artificial  support. 
AWNS,  the  beard  of  barley  is  thus  called. 
AXILLARY,  growing  out  of  the  axile;  leaves  are  axillary  when 

they  grow  from  the  angle  formed  by  the  stem  and  branch. 
AXIS,  a  centre. 

BARREN,  producing  no  fruit,  containing  stamens  only. 
BIENNIAL,  a  plant  that  produces  stem  and  leaf  one  year,  and  dies 

the  next. 

BIFID,  cut  half  in  two  from  the  summit,  two-cleft. 
BILABIATE,  corolla  with  two  lips. 


318  A    GUIITE  TO  FLORICTTLTTTRE. 

BIPiNNATED,  twice  pinnated. 

B  ITERN  ATE,  cut  into  three  twice  over. 

BRACT,  floral  leaf;  a  leaf  near  the  flower,  different  from  the  other 

leaves  of  the  plant. 
BRACTEA,  small  leaves  between  tine  proper  leaves  of  the  plants 

and  the  flower  cap. 
BULBS,  bulbs  are  buds   or  the  winter  residence  of  future  plants; 

bulbous1  plants  are  perennials. 

CADUCOUS,  falHn^  off  early,  like  the  poppy. 

CALYX,  u  flower  cup;  in  most  plants  it,  closes  and  supports  the 

corolla. 

CAPILLARY,  hair  like. 
CAPITATE,  growing-  in  the  form  erf  a  bead. 
CAPSULE,  the  little  chest  or  seed  vessel  which  opens  whon  th« 

seeds1  sere  ripe. 
CARPEL,  re  a  division  of  the  fruit,  each  carpel  forming  a  distinct 

eel?. 

CAULINE,  developed  on  the  stem. 
CELLULAR.  made  up  of  cells  or  cavities 
CERNIJGU'S,  when  a  plant  grows  in  a  nodding,  drooping,  or  pendu- 

lous style. 

CILIATED,  eye  lash  haired  ;  bordered  with  soft  paralled  hairs. 
CILIATE,  fringed  with  parallel  hairs. 
COMOSE,  applied  to  a  flower  shoot,  which  is  terminated  by  barren 


COMPOUND,    several   things  in   one;   the  Chrysanthemum  is  a 

compound  flower,  so  is  the  Dahlia,  both  formed  of  numerous 

little  flowers  or  florets. 

CONNATE,  situated  opposite  each  other,  and  joined  at  the  base. 
CORDATE,  heart-shaped;  according  to  the  common  notion  of  tne 

heart. 

COROLLA,  usually  enclosing  the  stamens. 
CORYMB,  a  bunch  of  flowers  when  the  footstalks  proceed  from  dif- 

ferent parts  of  the  principal  axis,  and  attains  the  same  height. 
CORY  MBOUS,  formed  after  the  manner  of  a  corymb. 


A  BOTANICAL  GLOSSARY.  319 

CRENATE,  scolloped,  notches  on  the  margin  of  a  leaf  pointing  to- 
wards neither  apex  or  base. 

CRENULATE,  filled  with  notches. 

CULM,  the  stem  of  grasses. 

CUNEATE,  wedge-shaped,  broad  and  abrtipt  at  the  summit,  and 
tapering  towards  the  base. 

CUMBIFORM,  having  the  form  of  a  boat. 

DECIDUOUS,  plants  that  shed  their  leaves  annually. 

DECOMPOUND,  leaves  twice  pinnated,  and  to  a  panicle  when  its 
branches  are  also  panicled. 

DECUMBENT,  lying  down. 

DENTICULATED,  being  finely  toothed. 

DIGITATE,  a  form  smilar  to  the  fingers  of  a  man's  hand. 

DICECIOUS,  when  a  plant  bears  male  and  female  flowers  individu- 
ally, in  different  flowers. 

DISTICHOUS,  leaves  of  flowers  placed  in  two  opposite  rows. 

DISK,  the  whole  surface  of  a  leaf  or  top  of  a  compound  flower,  as 
opposite  to  its  rays. 

ECOSTATE,  without  nerves  or  ribs. 

EDIBLE,  good  when  used  for  food,  esculent. 

EGLANDULOUS,  without  glands. 

ELLIPTIC,  nearly  oval,  between  an  ellipsis  and  a  lance  shape. 

EMARGINATE,  being  slightly  notched  at  the  end. 

ENSIFORM,  formed  like  a  sword,  as  the  Iris. 

ENTIRE,  even  and  whole  to  the  edge. 

EXOTIC,  plants  brought  from  foreign  countries. 

FAMILIES,  union  of  several  genera  into  groups,  at  times  synony. 

rnous  with  natural  order. 

FARINA,  meal  or  flour;  pollen  is  called  farina. 
FASTIGIATE,  tapering  to  a  narrow  point,  like  a  pyramid. 
FERTILE,  pistillate  and  yielding  fruit. 
FIBRE,  thread-like  part. 

FILAMENT,  the  slender,  thread-like  part  of  the  stamen. 
FILIFORM,  long  and  simple,  like  a  thread. 
FISTULOUS,  hollow  or  tubular. 


320  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

FLESHY,  thick,  pulpy. 

FLEXUOUS,  having  a  bent  or  wavy  direction. 
FLORET,  a  little  flower,  part  of  a  compound  flower, 
FOLIACEOUS,  leafy. 

FOOT-STALK,  a  term  used  instead  of  peduncle  and  petiole. 
FRIABLE,  easily  crumbled,  or  reduced  to  a  powder. 
FRUCTIFICATION,  the  act  of  causing  fruit,  theory  of    germi- 
nation. 

FUNICLE,  the  stalk  which  connects  the  ovule  to  the  ovary. 
FUSIFORM,  radish  or  carrot  shaped. 

GENERA,  a  family  of  plants  agreeing  in  their  flower  and  fruit. 
GERM,  the  lower  part  of  the  pistil,  afterwards  the  fruit. 
GERMINATION,  the  swelling  of  seed,  and  the  unfolding  of  its 

embryo. 

GRANDIFLORA,  having  large  flowers. 
GLABROUS,  smooth. 

GLANDULOUS,  having  small  glands  on  the  surface, 
GLAUCOUS,  smooth,  of  a  sea-green  color. 
GLABOSE,  round  or  spherical  like  the  orange. 
GLUME,  a  part  of  the  floral  envelopes  of  grass. 

HASTATE,  formed  like  the  head  of  the  ancient  halbert, 

HERB,  a  plant  without  a  woody  stem. 

HERBACEOUS,  plants  not  woody. 

HERBAGE,  every  part  of  a  plant,  except  the  root  and  fructificatious 

part. 
HISPID,  when  the  spines  on  the  surface  of  the  leaf  are  not  very 

visible  to  the  naked  eye. 
HOARY,  covered  over  with  white  down. 
HYBRID,  a  vegetable  production,  by  the  mixture  of  two  species ; 

seeds  of  hybrid  plants  are  not  fertile. 

IMBRICATED,  lying  over,  like  shingles  of  a  roof. 

IMPERFECT,  wanting  the  stamens  or  pistils. 

INDIGENOUS,  native,  growing  wild  in  a  country. 

INFLEX,  or  INCURVED,  folding  inwards. 

INVOLUCRE,  where  the  bracteae,  or  floral  leaves,  are  set  in  a  whorl. 


A   BOTANICAL    GLOSSARY.  321 

INVOLUTE,  a  term  applied  to  leaves,  when  rolled  inward. 
INTEGUMENT,  a  covering,  an  envelop. 

JAGGED,  irregularity,  divided  and  subdivided. 
JOINTS,  knots  or  rings  in  culms,  pods,  leaves,  &c. 

LANCEOLATE,  spear-shape,  narrow,  with  both  ends  acute. 
LEAFLET,  a  partial  leaf,  part  of  a  compound  leaf. 
LEAF-STALK,  petiole. 
LEGUME,  a  pod;  applied  to  the  fruit  of  leguminous  plants,  such  as 

the  Pea. 

LILIACEOUS,  corolla,  with  six  petals  starting  from  the  base. 
LINEAR,  narrow,  with  parallel  sides,  as  in  most  grasses. 
LIP,  the  under  petal  in  a  labiate  corolla. 
LOBE,  large  division,  or  distinct  portion  of  a  leaf  or  petal. 
LUNATE,  crescent-shaped,  like  a  half  moon. 

LYRATE,  lyre-shaped;  cut  into  many  transverse  segments,  larger 
extremity  of  the  leaf,  which  is  rounded. 

MEMBRANOUS,  in  texture  like  a  membrane,  soft  and  supple. 
MULTIFID,  cut  into  three,  four,  five,  or  more  narrow  divisions. 
MULTIFLOROUS,  many  flowered. 
MURICATED,  covered  with  sharp  points. 

NARCOTIC,  having  the  power  of  producing  sleep,  as  Opium. 
NECTARY,  that  part  of  a  flower  which  produces  the  honey. 

OBOVATE,  egg-shaped,  with  the  narrow  end  towards  the  stem,  or 
place  of  insertion. 

OBTUSE,  blunt,  rounded,  not  acute. 

OFFICINALIS,  such  plants  as  are  kept  for  sale,  as  medicines, 
esculent  herbs,  &c. 

OPPOSITE,  standing  against  each  other  on  opposite  sides  of  the 
stem. 

OVAL,  having  the  figure  of  an  ellipse. 

OVARY,  that  portion  of  the  pistil  which  contains  the  ovicles, 

OVATE,  shaped  like  an  egg  cut  lengthwise. 

OVULES,  little  eggs ;  the  rudiments  of  fruit  or  seed  before  its  fer- 
tilization. 


322  A   GUIDE   TO   FLORICULTURE. 

PALMATED,  cut  into  oblong  segments,  resembling  a  hand. 
PANICLE,   a   loose,   irregular  bunch  of  flowers  with   subdivided 

branches. 
PANDURIFORM,  fiddle-shaped,  oblong  at    the  extremities,  and 

small  in  the  middle, 
PAPPUS,  the  down  of  seeds,  as  in  the  Dandelion  and  Thistle,  a 

feathery  appendage. 
PARTITION,   the  membrane  which   divides  pericarps  into  cells, 

called  the  desseximent. 
PARTED,  deeply  divided;  more  than  cleft. 
PECTINATE,  resembling  the  teeth  of  a  comb,  between  fimbriated 

and  pinnatifid. 

PEDICLE,  the  footstalk  which  supports  a  single  Sower. 
PEDUNCLE,  the  common  flower  stalk,  developed  in  the  axil  of  a 

non- radical  leaf. 

PENDENT,  hanging  down,  pendnlous. 
PERENNIAL,  lasting  many  years  without  perishing. 
PERICARP,  the  vessel  which  contains  the  seed. 
PERSISTENT,  not  falling  off,  permanent. 
PETALS,  the  division  of  the  corolla. 
PETIOLE,  the  footstalk  of  the  leaf.  " 
PINNATE,  a  leaf  is  pinnate  when  the  leaflets  are  arranged  in  two 

rows  on  the  side  of  a  common  petiole,  as  in  the  Rose. 
PINNATIFID,   cut  in    a  pinnate  manner;    a  simple  leaf  deeply 

parted. 
PISTIL,  the  central    organ  of  most  flowers,  consisting  of  germ, 

style,  and  stigma. 

PISTILLATE,  having  pistils  but  no  stamens. 
PITH,  the  spongy  substance  in  the  centre  of  the  stem  and  roots. 
POD,  dry  seed-vessel,  not  pulpy,  commonly  applied  to  legumes  and 

siliques. 

POLYANDROUS,  having  many  stamens  inserted  upon  the  recep- 
tacle. 
POLYGAMOUS,  having  some  flowers  perfect,  and   others  with 

stamens  only,  or  pistils  only. 

POLYMORPHOUS,  changing,  assuming  many  forms. 
POLYPETALOUS,  having  many  petals. 

' 


A   BOTANICAL    GLOSSARY.  323 

PRATENSIS,  growing  in  meadow  lands. 

PUBESCENT,  covered  with  soft  silky  hairs. 

PULP,  the  juicy,  cellular  substance  of  berries  and  other  fruit. 

PUNGENT,  stinging  or  pricking. 

RACEMES,  when  flowers  are  arranged  round  a  filiform  simple  axis ; 

each  particular  flower  being  stalked. 
RADIATE,  the  lingulate  florets  around  the  margin  of  a  compound 

flower. 
RADICLE,  a  term  applied  to  leaves  proceeding  immediately  from 

the  root,  as  in  the  Daisy;  also  the  minute  fibres  of  a  root. 
RAMIFEROUS,  producing  bunches. 
RAMOSE,  branching. 
RAMUS,  a  branch. 

RAY,  the  outer  margin  of  compound  flowers. 
RECEPTACLE,  the  end  of  a  flower  stalk :  the  base  of  which  the 

different  parts  of  fructification  are  usually  attached. 
REFLEXED,  bent  backwards. 

RETICULATED,  having  the  appearance  of  net  work. 
RETUSE,  abruptly  blunt  at  the  end. 
RINGENTT  gaping. 
RUGOSE,  rough,  or  coarsely  wrinkled. 

SAGITATE,  shaped  like  an  arrow  head;  triangular  and  very 
much  hollowed  at  the  base. 

SCAPE,  a  stalk  which  springs  from  the  root,  and  supports  the  flow- 
ers and  fruit,  without  leaves. 

SCALES,  any  small  development  resembling  minute  leaves;  also  the 
leaves  of  the  involucre  of  compound  flowers. 

SEPAL,  leaves  or  division  of  the  calyx. 

SERRATED,  edged  with  teeth  like  those  of  a  saw. 

SESSILE,  said  of  leaves  seated  on  the  stem,  without  foot  stalks. 

SETACEOUS,  bearing  some  resemblance  to  the  form  of  a  bristle. 

SIL1CLE,  the  small  round  pod  of  cruciform  flowers. 

SINUATE,  undulating,  or  wavy. 

SPADIX,  flower  stalk  developed  in  a  spatha. 

SPATIIA,  a  simple  floral  leaf,  en-closing  the  whole  inflorescence. 


324  A   GUIDE   TO    FLORICULTURE. 

SPATULATE,  large,  obtuse  at  the  end,  tapering  into  the  stalk  at 

the  base. 

SPECIFIC,  belonging  to  a  species  only. 
SPIKE,  a  flower  so  called;  seated  upon  a  long  rochis. 
SPINDLE-SHAPED,  thick  at  top,  fusiform. 
SPINOUS,  full  of  prickles. 
STAMEN,  the  male  organ  of  a  flower. 
STAMINATE,  having  a  stamen  without  pistils. 
STELLATE,  like  a  star. 
STIGMA,  the  female  organ  of  a  flower. 
STIPULE,  a  leafy  appendage  at  the  base  of  petioles,  or  leaves. 
STYLE,  the  part  of  the  pistil  between  the  stigma  and  the  germ. 
STRLE,  small  streaks,  channels  or  furrows. 
SUBULATE,  awl-shaped,  narrow,  and  sharp  pointed. 
SUCCULENT,  juicy:  also  a  pulpy  leaf,  juicy  or  not. 

TANNIN,  an  astringent  principle  of  plants,  &c. 

TENDRIL,  a  filiform  or  thread-like  appendage  of  a  climbing  plant. 

TERMINAL,  ending,  or  at  the  top. 

TERN  ATE,  consisting  of  three  leaflets. 

TISSUE,  thin  fabric  or  envelop  composed  of,  or  interwoven  with 

small  fibres. 

TOPICAL,  local,  confined  to  a  place. 
TOOTHED,  cut  so  as  to  resemble  teeth. 
TRIFID,  cut  into  three. 
TUBER,  a  solid  fleshy  knob. 

TUBEROUS,  thick  and  fleshy,  containing  tubers  as  the  Dahlia. 
TUMID,  swelling. 

UMBELS,  the  round  tuft  of  flowers,  as  produced  by  the  Carrot. 
UNARMED,  opposed  to  spinous;  free  from  prickles. 
UNILATERAL,  when  the  leaves  are  all  turned  one  way,  and  are 
all  on  one  side. 

VARIETY,  subdivision  of  species,  distinguished  by  characters  not 
permanent. 


A   BOTANICAL   GLOSSARY.  325 

VALVES,  parts  of  seed-vessels  into  which  they  are  separated ;    the 

leaves  which  form  a  glume  or  spatha. 
VENTRICOSE,  inflated. 
VESICULAR,  composed  of  vessels. 
VERTICILLATE,  whorled,  heavy  leaves,  or  flowers,  in  a  circle 

round  the  stem. 
VILLOUS,  closely  covered  with  long  hairs,  so  as  almost  to  hide  the 

surface. 

VIROSE,  nauseous  to  the  smell,  poisonous. 
VISCID,  thick,  glutinous,  covered  with  adhesive  moisture. 

WINGS,  two  side  petals  of  a  papilionaceous  flower. 

WHORLS,  where  many  parts  are  set  round  an  axis  in  the  same  place. 


INDEX. 


Acheraenes 50  i  Candytuft, 90 

Acacia  thispeda 57  |  Canterbury  Bell, 80 


laphante, 58 

u      oxycedorus, 59 

"      saligna, 58 

Agapanthus, 45 

Agerathum, -. 46 

Ainaranthus  glebe, 43 

"  melancholis,  ...  .42 

"  tricolor, 43 

American  Cowslip, 41 

Anemone  coronaria, 47 


Cardinal  Flower, 96 

Carnation, 97 

Carolina  Pink 106 

Catchfly  silene  angelica, 68 

**         lobels, 6» 

Centurea, 77 

China  Aster, 77 

China  Pink, 103 

China  Primrose, .91 

Chrysanthemum,  Chinese,  . .  .85 


hortensis, 47  j  Chrysanthemum,  Ox  Eye,. ...  93 


Annuals, 10 

April,  calendar  for, 292 


Golden  Corn- 
flower, .  03 


Argemone, 44  |  Chrysanthemum,  tricolor,. . .  .93 

Asters 44  j  Cineraria, 71 

August,  calendar  for, 305  |  Clematis  flammula, 71 


Auricula, 53! 

A?alia  pulchra, 52 

Balsam  I  fulva, 6Q 

"     "  noli-me-tangere 61 

"     "  pallida 62 

Beautiful  Clarkia 65 

Beautiful  Nernophila, 59 

Biennials, 11 

Bindweed  C.  arvensis, 60 

"        **   major, 60 

"         "   minor, 61 

Botanical  Glossary, .317 

Box,  Dutch ,65 

"     Tree, 66 

Budding, 30 

Cactus 75 

Calla  Ethiopica,   67 

Calceolaria, 83 

Campanula  persicifolia, 94 


florida, 71 

"       seibaldii, 70 

Cobaea  scandens 74 

Coffee  Tree 68 

Columbine, 95 

Cowslip, 2 14 

Crape  Myrtle, 79 

Crocus, 88 

Crown  Imperial, 81 

Cuckoo-flower, 73 

Cuttings, 27 

Dahlia 108 

Dandelion, 115 

December,  calendar  for, 315 

Double  Daisy, 107 

Faireye, 1 1.7 

February,  calendar  for, 287 

Forget-me-not; 1 20 

Foxglove, 118 


INDEX. 


Fuchsia 122 

Gardening, 15 

Garden  Pink 125 

General  treatment  of  plants,.  .35 

Geranium, 129 

Gladiolus  byzanthus, 132 

"        cardinalis, 132 

u       communis, 132 

"       floribundis, 1 32 

Gloxinia 133 

Heliotrope, 139 

Hibiscus,  African, 138 

Hollyhock, 136 

Honeysuckle, 143 

Hot-bed 14 

Hyacinth, 14G 

Hyacinthine, 144 

Hybridizing, 37 

Hydrangea, 140 

Ice  Plant, 153 

Indian  Cress  T.  azureum,  . . .  156 

"     "          "    major, 155 

44     "         "    minor, 155 

Ink  for  Zinc  Labels, 154 

Ipornoca  coccina, 157 

"        grandiflora, 158 

"        learii, 158 

Ismene  Amancaes, 150 

Iris  persica, 151 

"  xephium, 152 

"  susiana, 151 

Jacobean  Lily, 159 

January,  calendar  for, 285 

Japan  Lily, 1 66 

Japan  Rose, 161 

Jasmine  grandiflora, 167 

"       officinale, 167 

June,  calendar  for, 298 

July,        "  302 

Laurestinus, 176 

Lavender, 169 

Leaf,  growing  from, 283 


Lsmon  scented  Verbena,. .  . .  174 

Lemon  Tree, 176 

Lily, 173 

Lily   of  the  Valley 172 

London  Pride 176 

Lupin, 171 

Management  of  Plants  in  the 

parlor, 278 

Manuring, 24 

March,  calendar  for, 289 

Martynia  fragrans, 181 

Marvel  of  Peru 1 85 

May,  calendar  for, 295 

Marigold  chrysanthemum,  . .  183 

*•         grandiflora, 187 

»*         officinalis, 183 

"         pluvialis, 189 

"        viscosa, 188 

Mesembry  anthem  um, 184 

Mignionette, 182 

Moccasin  Plant, 177 

Monkey  flower, 186 

Monk's  Hood  napellus, 190 

"  venustum, 191 

"  pyramidal, 191 

**  versicolor, 191 

Myrtle  communis, 179 

"      tomentosa 179 

"     lucalia  pinciana,  ....  180 

Narcissus  daffodil, 194 

"         grand  primo   citro- 

nicnne, 193 

"         jonquil, 194 

"         orientalis 193 

"         poeticus, 195 

"        pseudo, 194 

"         tazetta. 193 

November,  calendar  for,  ....  312 

October,  calendar  for, 310 

Oleander 197 

Orange  Tree 199 

Oxlip 214 

Paeony  whitlegii, 218 


INDEX. 


Pfflony  fragrans, 217 

"  <  humeii, 217 

"     M.  banksia, 220 

44     M.  papavera, 220 

Pansy, 209 

Passion  Flower  actinia, 204 

»•  ccerulea, 204 

"  middletoniana,204 

"  kermesina, . . .  204 

Perennials, 12 

Petunia, 220 

Pheasant's  Eye, 200 

Phlox 216 

Pimpernel  arvensis, 205 

**        ccerulea, 206 

"        fruiticosa, 206 

"         latifolia, 207 

»        monelli, 207 

"        tenella, 207 

Plants 10 

Polyanthus, 222 

Pomegranate, 208 

Potting, 24 

Portulaca  thellasoni, 202 

"         gelesii, 202 

Primrose  Family, 21,3 

Pyramidal  Bell-flower, 225 

Ranunculus, 241 

Ragged  Robin, 240 

Rocket  Larkspur, 227 

Rose, 228 

»    Tree, ...237 

«    Bay, 239 


Rose  Campion, 226 

Scarlet  Lychnis, 253 

Scarlet  Valerian, 247 

Schizanthus, 244 

Seed  Sowing, 17 

Select  list  of  plants  for  parlor 

culture, 282 

September, 307 

Side  Saddle 254 

Snap  Dragon, 252 

Snow  Drop, 248 

Star  of  Bethlehem, 246 

St.  John's  Wort, 250 

Sunflower .- .  .251 

Sweet  Pea, 253 

Sweet  William, 549 

Tassel  Flower, 269 

Tea, 260 

Ten  Week  Stock, 256 

Tiger  Flower, 262 

Transplanting, 22 

Tuberose, 259 

Tulip, 264 

Variegated  Euphorbia, 270 

Velvet  Cockscomb, 270 

Verbena, 271 

Wall  Flower, 275 

Wash  to  destroy  insects 277 

White  Lily, 272 

Winged  Ammobium, 272 


BOOKS  ON  AGRICULTURE,  GARDENING,  &C. 

FOR  SALE  BY 

DERBY,    BRADLEY    &   CO., 

BOOKSELLERS  AND  PUBLISHERS, 
113     Main     Street, 

CINCINNATI,    O. 


DOWNING'S  FRUITS  AND  FRUIT  TREES  OF  AMERICA, 

1  vol.  12mo. 

DOWNING'S  COTTAGE  RESIDENCES,  I  vol.  8vo. 
DOWNING'S    LANDSCAPE    GARDENING    AND     RURAL 

ARCHITECTURE,   1  vol.  8vo. 
GRAY'S  BOTANICAL  TEXT  BOOK,  I  vol.  I2mo. 
LOUDON'S  GARDENING  FOR  LADIES,  1  vol.  I2mo.,  edited 

by  Downing. 
BUIST'S    AMERICAN    FLOWER    GARDEN    DIRECTORY, 

1  vol.  I2mo. 

LINDLEY'S  THEORY  OF  HORTICULTURE,  1  vol.  12nu>. 
RURAL  ECONOMY,  By  Boussingault,  1  vol.  12mo. 
STABLE  ECONOMY,  By  Stewart,  1  vol.  12mo. 
AMERICAN  SHEPHERD,  By  Morrell,  1  vol.  12mo. 
FARMER'S  DICTIONARY,  By  Gardner,  1  thick  12mo. 
THE  FARMER'S  TREASURE,  By  Jos.  A.  Smith. 
FALKNER'S  FARMER'S  MANUAL,  1  vol.  12mo. 
AMERICAN  FARMER'S  ENCYCLOPAEDIA,  1  vol.  8vo. 
FARMER'S  AND  EMIGRANT'S   HAND  BOOK,  By  Marshall. 
PARNELL'S  APPLIED   CHEMISTRY,  1  vol.  8vo. 
YOUATT'S  STOCK  RAISER'S  MANUAL,  1  vol.  8vo. 
YUOATT'S    CATTLE  DOCTOR,  1  vol.  12rao. 
YOUATT  ON  THE  DOG,  1  vol.  8vo. 
HAWKER  ON  SHOOTING,  1  vol.  8vo. 
THOMPSON  ON  FOOD  OF  ANIMALS,  I  vol.  12mo. 
THE  TREES  OF  AMERICA,  NATIVE  AND  FOREIGN,  By 

D.  J.  Browne,  Illustrated. 


CATALOGUE  OP  BOOKS. 

A  REPORT  ON  THE  TREES  AND  SHRUBS  OF  MASSA- 
CHUSETTS, one  large  vol.  8vo. 

KENDRICK'S  NEW  AMERICAN  ORCHARDIST,  1  vol.  12mo. 

THOMAS'  FRUIT  CULTURIST,  one  vol.  18rao. 

THE  FARMER'S  COMPANION;  or  Essays  on  the  Principles  and 
Practice  of  American  Husbandry,  by  the  Hon.  Jesse  Bael, 
sixth  edition  1  vol.  12  mo. 

THE  FLORA  OF  NORTH  AMERICA;  arranged  according  to  the 
Natural  System,  by  Jno.  Torrey,  and  Asa  Gray,  1  vol.  8vo. 

A  DICTIONARY  OF  ARTS,  MANUFACTURES,  AND  MINES, 
containing  a  clear  exposition  of  their  principles  and  practice, 
by  Andrew  Ure,  with  a  supplement  containing  recent  im- 
provements, 2  vol.  8  vo. 

A  CYCLOPAEDIA  OF  PRACTICAL  RECEIPTS,  and  collateral 
information  in  the  Arts,  Manufactures.  Trades,  &c..  by 
A.  J.  Cooley,  1  vol.  8  vo. 

JOURNAL  OF  BOTANY,  being  a  second  series  of  the  Botanical 
Miscellany;  containing  figures  and  descriptions  of  such 
plants  as  recommend  themselves  by  their  novelty,  rarity,  or 
history,  or  by  the  uses  to  which  they  are  applied  in  the  Arts, 
in  Medicine,  and  in  Domestic  Economy,  by  William  Jackson 
Hooper,  London  edition,  4  vols.  8  vo. 
Constantly  on  hand  a  general  assortment  of  Books,  embracing 

Law,  Medical,  Theological,  Miscellaneous,  and  English  Books,  and 

all  the  School  and  Classical  Books  in  use. 

LAW    BOOKS. 

The  largest  assortment  in  the  West,  and  supplied  on  as  favorable 
terms  as  at  any  establishment  in  the  United  States.  English  Law 
Books  imported  to  order.  A  liberal  discount  made  to  Booksellers, 
and  orders  by  letter  from  them,  or  gentlemen  of  the  bench  or  bar, 
will  be  executed  at  as  low  prices  as  if  the  purchasers  themselves 
were  present. 

FOREIGN    BOOKS. 

Particular  attention  given  to  importing  Foreign  Books.  Persons 
sending  an  order  for  any  particular  work  published  in  Europe,  can 
rely  upon  receiving  the  same  in  the  shortest  possible  time. 

A  very  large  and  fine  assortment  of  English  and  American 
Stationery.  Blank  Books  of  every  variety  made  to  order.  Banks, 
public  offices,  merchants,  and  others,  supplied  on  the  most  reasona- 
ble terms. 

We  invite  the  particular  attention  of  country  Booksellers  and 
Merchants,  Members  of  the  Bar,  public,  private,  and  social  Libra- 
ries, and  all  who  may  desire  to  purchase  Books  or  Stationery,  to 
call  and  examine  our  stock  and  prices. 


S.   S.  JACKSON, 


Three  miles  below  Cincinnati,  Ohio., 

Begs  to  inform  his  Friends  and  the  Public  generally  that  h« 
KEEPS    FOR    SALE 


Raspberries,    Evergreens, 

Ornamental  Trees  and  Shrubs, 

GREEN  HOUSE  AND  HOT  HOUSE 

PLANTS, 

IBIBIU83   AHffi)    TOIBIEB^ 

HARDY    HERBACEOUS    PLANTS, 
And  300  Varieties  of  the 

All  Trees,  Plants,  &c.,  delivered  in  Cincinnati,  FREE  OF 
CHARGE,  find  packed  so  as  to  carry  safely  to  any  part  of  the 
country. 

Having  no  Agen-t  in  Cincinnati,  all  orders  directed  to  S.  S.  JACK- 
SON, Nurseryman  and  Florist,  Cincinnati,  Ohio,  will  be  promptly 
attended  to. 

The  Omnibus  runs  past  the  Nursery  three  times  a  day. 

Refer  to  R.  BUCHANAN,  Esq.,  and  JACOB  STRADER,  Esq. 


SPRING  GARDEN  NURSERY, 

A.  H.  ERNST, 

Near  Cincinnati, 

The  Proprietor  of  this  extensive  establishment  respectfully  invites 
the  public  attention  to  his  assortment  of  Trees,  Shrubs,  &c.,  with 
every  assurance  that  no  expense  has  been  spared  to  make  his  selec- 
tion one  of  the  best  in  the  Western  country,  embracing 

APPLES,   APRICOTS, 
PEARS,    PEACHES,  QUINCES, 

Cherries,  Plums,   Nectarines, 


Also,  Grape  Vines,  Currants,  Gooseberries,  Raspberries,  and 
Strawberries,  all  of  the  most  approved  kinds.  His  shrubberies 
embrace  fine  shade  Trees,  for  side  walks  and  lawns,  and  his  Ever* 
greens  consist  of 

Red  Cedar,  Balsam  Fir,  Swedish  Juniper 

White  Cedar,  Norway  Spruce,  Willow, 

American  Arbor  Vitro,  White  Pine,  Box, 

Chinese  do  Yellow  Pine,  Hemlock,  &c. 

Not  having  any  Agent  in  the  city,  the  Proprietor  solicits  persom 
wishing  to  purchase  to  visit  his  establishment,  being  confident  more 
satisfaction  would  be  given  than  those  sold  in  the  city,  as  his  trees 
and  shrubs  are  healthy,  and  of  vigorous  growth.  To  those  persona 
at  a  distance,  or  others,  can  address  him  through  the  Post  Office ; 
and  every  pains  will  be  taken  to  render  satisfaction,  and  their  pack- 
ages will  be  shipped,  or  sent  to  any  part  of  the  city. 

A.  H.  ERNST,  Proprietor. 

OMNIBUSES  run  constantly  from  the  public  landing  to  within 
a  few  hundred  yards  of  Spring  Garden. 


HOME  USE 

CIRCULATION  DEPARTMENT 
MAIN  LIBRARY 


Ql 


LD21—  A-40m-8,'75 
(S7737L) 


u  /  I 


V-  ^ 


